Barbour's Auto Help

In this video I go over how to bench test a 4X4 shift motor out of a 2011 Ford F150 that had an inoperative 4X4 system with code P1867 "Contact plate general circuit failure" stored in it. And, it just so happens that I had a "known good" shift motor available too so that I could do a side by side comparison. I'll go through the bench test on the bad shift motor and on the good shift motor. Once the bench test is completed I then take the contact plates on both shift motors apart to explain what how it works and what is happening inside. Faulty 4x4 shift motors on F150s are an extremely common issue. Typically a "check 4x4" message will show up on the instrument cluster when there is a problem with the shift motor. Code P1867 "contact plate general circuit failure" may also set in the 4x4 module. Note: While the shift motor featured in the video is off of a 2011 F-150 this "style" of shift motor is used on a lot of F150s throughout the years. So, this information could help on newer or older F-150s. I do not know the year range that this video is applicable to. I also, am not sure if all shift motors throughout the years are wired similarly to the one featured in the video. So, that being said, please consult your repair manual and wiring schematics to confirm that the video is applicable. Also, I do know that the contact plate pattern does change as mentioned in the video. Note: This video may not be suitable for everyone. A good understanding of vehicle electrical systems and the use of diagnostic equipment is needed. A good understanding of electrical theory is also needed. Use the information found in the video at your own risk. This video does not show how to test the motor part of the shift motor. Here is a link to that video I mentioned that was done by a fellow youtuber (Not affiliated. Seems like a smart dude though). It does a good job of explaining the disassembly and assembly of the contact plate to the shift motor: https://youtu.be/iMZhI0CM4Ps Note: At the 12:52 mark for some reason I called the contact plates clutch plates. (oops) DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. USE THE INFORMATION FOUND IN THIS VIDEO AT YOUR OWN RISK! YOU CAN GET HURT. BE CAREFUL.

In this video I show a quick and easy way to test to see if an evaporative emissions purge valve is stuck open due to an internal mechanical fault. (The evaporative emissions purge valve is also known as a vapor management valve.) Step 1: Disconnect the vapor tube going to the valve at the valve. The particular tube that is needed to be disconnected will be the one coming from the evap canister to the purge valve. Typically the evap canister is located near the fuel cell. So this tube will typically run to the rear of the vehicle. Step 2: Start the engine and allow it to idle. This is important so that vacuum can be applied to the valve. !!! WARNING: BE SURE THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK AND THE PARKING BRAKE IS ON. KEEP THE VEHICLE IN PARK WITH THE PARKING BRAKE APPLIED!!! Step 3: Disconnect the valve's electrical connector. It is important to do this because the PCM may cause the valve to come on allowing vacuum to pass 0through the valve giving inaccurate test results. It is normal to have the PCM command the valve on. Also, if there is an electrical fault it could cause the valve to stay on allowing vacuum to pass through the valve causing inaccurate test results. A mechanically sound valve should not allow vacuum to pass through it when the valve is not commanded on by the PCM. Disconnecting the valve electrically helps with getting accurate test results by isolating the valve. Step 4: Place a wet finger over the opening of evap purge valve nipple. No vacuum should be felt. If so, then the valve is stuck open and is faulty. (Do note: in the case of a very small leak, special leak detection equipment may be needed. It's been my experience however, that 99% of the time if the valve is stuck open a leak can be detected in the manner shown in the video.) Definition of "Normally closed solenoid/valve": A solenoid that is closed when no electrical current is supplied to the valve. Caution: Keep all ignition sources away from work area. Fuel vapor may be present in tube and valve. Fuel is very flammable. Even with all sources of ignition removed from the area fuel vapor can still ignite via other means. Use extreme caution. Keep a fire extinguisher handy. Work in a well ventilated area. Do test at your own risk! Caution: Use extreme caution when performing this test. Beware of moving parts that could potentially injure you. Keep your members clear of moving parts. Keep loose garments and jewelry away from moving parts. DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. USE THE INFORMATION FOUND IN THIS VIDEO AT YOUR OWN RISK! YOU CAN GET HURT. BE CAREFULL.

In this video I'll show you a great way to make your battery draw test, aka parasitic draw test, more accurate and easy. It involves using a knife blade switch at the negative battery clamp and having an ammeter hooked up to it so that the current is diverted through the ammeter when the knife blade switch is disconnected. Using the knife blade switch this way is beneficial in two ways. First, it makes it possible to divert the current flow through the ammeter without stopping or interrupting the current flow to the battery. This is important as things tend to "wake up" when power is disconnected and reconnected to them and using a knife blade switch in this manner will prevent that from happening. By not waking up modules or components this way it helps to insure that the draw you are seeing is the actual draw that is causing the battery to die and also helps in keeping you from chasing a module or component that aren't actually the cause of your battery draw. Second, it frees your hands up. You can simply place your ammeter in a place that is visible while you isolate your fault while monitoring current draw. Note: This video is not a "how to" video for performing a battery draw test. This is just a tip that may help assist you to perform a more accurate test. Please see your repair manual for step by step instructions for performing a battery draw test. Here are some links to different battery disconnect tools. The first one is similar to the one in the video. https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Disconnect-Isolator-Negative-Vertical/dp/B07JZ9NDH2/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=yNzLZvNigSo-qoexT0BatQ&hsa_cr_id=3015601430901&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_td_asin_1 https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Switch-Isolator/dp/B07JYYXJH7/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=loUIHPpLh4xGDGkVufAwyQ&hsa_cr_id=3015601430901&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_td_asin_2 GENERAL DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and protective gloves and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbour's Auto Help, Barbour's Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour's Auto Help makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized, accurate or appropriate for your vehicle. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques.

In this video I share how to cheaply and temporarily fix a battery draw AKA parasitic battery drain. A parasitic battery draw occurs when too much current (amps) is being used by a vehicle when the vehicle is off. It's usually accompanied by the symptom of the vehicle either not cranking the next morning or a dragging crank. The solution I discuss in the video involves using a mechanism to cut of the current draw when the vehicle is not in use. The mechanism is a knife blade switch that connects directly to the negative battery post. When the vehicle is not in use simply disconnect the switch. This prevents the battery from draining as it is no longer connected to the vehicle. When you want to use the vehicle again just reconnect the switch. As mentioned in the video, this really should only be used as a temporary fix. Many vehicles depend on modules, that have learned behaviors, to operate correctly. By disconnecting the battery every night the memory will be wiped clean in many of theses modules. This could lead to other symptoms. However, these symptoms usually correct themselves the more the vehicle is driven. (until the battery is disconnected again) Doing this every time the vehicle is not driven can also put your radio or ACM into "anti-theft" mode. On some vehicles a code will be needed in order to get the radio to operate again. Also, this may not work at all for some vehicles out there and may cause damage to some vehicles. Which vehicles these are and what kind of damage can be done, who knows? I highly advise you to do your own research. Either way, use this repair at your own risk. Note: I would only advise attaching a switch to the negative battery post. In my opinion this is the safer way. Here are some links to different battery disconnect tools. The first one is similar to the one in the video. https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Disconnect-Isolator-Negative-Vertical/dp/B07JZ9NDH2/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=yNzLZvNigSo-qoexT0BatQ&hsa_cr_id=3015601430901&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_td_asin_1 https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Switch-Isolator/dp/B07JYYXJH7/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=loUIHPpLh4xGDGkVufAwyQ&hsa_cr_id=3015601430901&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_td_asin_2 GENERAL DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and protective gloves and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbour's Auto Help, Barbour's Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour's Auto Help makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques.

In this video I discuss the symptom of torque converter shudder, give an example of it, and talk about the fixes of torque converter shudder. Torque converter shudder is characterized by a "shuddering" sensation at around the 45 mph mark. This shudder occurs when the torque converter clutch is engaged when the vehicle goes into over drive. The clutch can slip causing a "shuddering" sensation. Typically this symptom can be corrected by flushing the transmission. Sometimes toque converter replacement is required if flushing the fluid does not work. And then, sometimes, even a transmission rebuild may be required. Consult a certified transmission tech for proper diagnosis. Toward the middle to end of the video I discuss another option to getting rid of torque converter shudder. This option is a trick that I and my co-workers, co-workers from my day job, use. It involves adding motorcraft XL-3 to the transmission fluid and driving the vehicle. Typically if the shudder goes away after this it would be recommended to flush the fluid as this would most likely take care of the problem. Note: I have only used Motorcraft XL-3 on Ford vehicles. I do not claim that this will work or is appropriate for use on other makes. Furthermore I do not claim that the use of XL-3 in automatic transmissions on even Ford vehicles is appropriate. I make no claim that the use of XL-3 will not cause damage to your transmission if you so choose to use it for this application. Use this product in this manner at your own risk. Motorcraft is not a sponsor of Barbour's Auto Help and is in no way affiliated with this channel. The XL-3 shown in the video was my own and was not given to me by Motorcraft. Barbour's Auto Help in no way speaks on behalf of Motorcraft. This is just a trick I learned. If you try it, do so at your own risk. By the way, there are other products out there that do claim to fix torque converter shudder. Do your own research. Note: Some vehicles can activate the torque converter clutch at speeds other than 45mph.. Also, in some rare instances torque converter shudder can feel very similar to a misfire. This video is not a "one size fits all" video. GENERAL DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and protective gloves and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques.

In this video I show how to replace an evaporative emissions purge valve on an 07 Ford Edge 3.5L. The process I use is very simple. I first disconnect the electrical connector. Then I disconnect both of the lines going to it. I then remove the valve from the mounting bracket. Installation is the reverse procedure. As mentioned in the video, your new valve may come with the mounting bracket. If you wish to replace the valve with the mounting bracket all you'll need to do is remove the mounting nuts shown in the video that hold the bracket to the fire wall. Remove the valve and bracket together as an assembly. Also, as mentioned in the video, the valve can be changed without taking the air duct off. It does help to take the air duct off, however. If you take the air duct off be sure that all the hoses are reconnected when going back together and be sure all hose clamps are tight. DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual.

In this video I'll show you how to compress a screw in caliper. This particular style brake caliper has an integrated parking brake. This method used to compress this caliper is different from your conventional brake caliper as a twisting motion is needed while pressing the piston back into the piston bore. Please note: While the majority of rear disc calipers integrated with a parking brake collapse while rotating the piston clock wise there are those that rotate counter clockwise. Please reference your repair manual for the correct rotation. ****ALSO, THIS INFORMATION MAY NOT APPLY TO ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH TWIST IN CALIPERS. SOME VEHICLES, SUCH AS HYBRID VEHICLES, MAY REQUIRE "SPECIAL" PROCEDURES AND EQUIPMENT FOR SERVICING THE BRAKES. I'D HIGHLY ADVISE USING A REPAIR MANAUL TO VERIFY ALL INFORMATION PERTAINING TO THIS PROCEDURE FOR WHAT EVER VEHICLE YOU ARE WORKING ON REGARDLESS. **** ***Also, be sure to check your brake fluid level and top off as needed after performing any brake work.*** A Link to a video showing how to diagnose a locked up brake caliper. https://youtu.be/1Mor9N9Rv2w Just in case you got air in the system, here is a link to another video showing how to bleed brakes using the "buddy system". https://youtu.be/6DeuMPgQDrE Here is a link to a video showing how to remove seized rotor screw. https://youtu.be/KCAeXsKz3ng The tools used in this video: The "cube" is made by Lisle and is readily available at many parts stores. The name of the tool on the package is "Disc Brake Piston Tool". There is also a number on the package that the cube comes in. Its 28600. It cost around $10- $15 and is SUPER handy for the price. As for the big disc brake caliper tool in the big red box. This tool is made by Mac Tools. The tool number on the box is DBC2500M. It runs around $150. I've had and used this tool for years and it works great. This is a good tool to have if you plan on doing a lot of brake jobs where this tool is needed. Her is a link to the Mac Tools web site where this tool can be purchased. http://www.mactools.com/en-us/Pages/Search.aspx?k=DBC2500M#k=DBC2500M*#d=g Repair your vehicle at your own risk! DISCLAIMER: Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses, protective gloves and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbour's Auto Help, Barbour's Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour's Auto Help makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Verify everything with your own research.

In this video I feature a couple of strut mounts with an integrated bearing, one bad and one good. I go over how the strut mount works. I also show what the inside of the bad strut mount looks like and what causes it to make noise such as the one featured in the video linked below. I also go over what causes it. Note: The strut mounts featured in the video has the bearing built into it. Some strut mounts do not come with an integrated bearing. It is the bearing portion of the strut mount that makes the noise discussed in the video. Strut mounts and bearings can and do fail in different manners. Also, this video is only information. It is not a guarantee that the noise you hear on your vehicle, even if it sounds like the noise discussed, is a strut mount bearing. Here is a link to that video discussed in the video and mentioned above.: https://youtu.be/mWHsDy_qJpc DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual.

In this video I have a great example of what a clicking or popping CV axle sounds like when making turns while accelerating. I even dissect the axle so that you can see what exactly failed on the inside giving you a better understanding of why a faulty CV axle can sound this way. As mentioned in the video, this noise is usually made by the outer joint of the CV axle while making turns while accelerating. This noise is usually experienced on front wheel drive vehicles equipped with CV axles. A typical front wheel drive vehicle will come equipped with two CV axles, one on the left side and one on the right side and this noise can come from either of the two or both. CV axles are also know as "halfshafts". Each axle will have an inner joint and an outer joint. The outer joint is what we will go over in this video. The inner joint can also cause noise and other symptoms. But, it usually will not sound the way an outer CV joint sounds. Click on the links below for more information concerning inner joint wear and CV axle replacement. So after getting some comments on the quality of the audio in this video, regarding the noise, I've made a new video that just features the noise. The audio is better quality. Here is that link: https://youtu.be/sNuEUwOq4k0 Here is a video explaining how a worn inner joint of a CV axle can cause a vibration on acceleration: https://youtu.be/UXKFaIb4Cnw Here is a video showing the replacement of CV axles on an 05 Honda Odyssey: https://youtu.be/564JQRgzYjk Note: I make no guarantee that by using this video you will make a correct diagnosis of what may be wrong with your vehicle. This video is only an informational video of a "typical" cv axle failure and cannot take the place of properly diagnosing your vehicle. DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual.

In this video I'll show you how to collapse and reset a hydraulic timing belt tensioner using a c-clamp. Reseting the tensioner will be needed if it has been taken off of an engine for timing belt replacement or any repair that requires the timing belt to be removed and if you intend on reusing the tensioner. If you have a new tensioner when performing timing belt related repairs it should come pre-collapsed. Albeit, if you have to redo a repair that requires the timing belt to be removed again then the new tensioner will have to be reset. The hydraulic timing belt tensioner may be called by different names. In the video I called it an automatic tensioner. This particular style of hydraulic timing belt tensioner, which can also be called an automatic tensioner , is used on a myriad of vehicles and the method for reseting the majority of them is the same. (Always verify that the information given in the video is applicable to your vehicle using a repair manual. As noted in the video some vehicles may require a totally different procedure.) Note: Be sure the entire surface of the end of the tensioner opposite the plunger makes full contact with the c-clamp. Pressing on just the center or the sides of the end of the tensioner opposite the plunger may result in damage to the tensioner. Side Note: It is my belief and the belief of many of my fellow mechanics that it is best to replace the hydraulic timing belt tensioner when ever the timing belt is replaced or when ever the tensioner is removed to service any component in the timing belt area. These tensioners can and do fail. In some cases if the tensioner where to fail it could result in engine damage. DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guaranty that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guaranty that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Follow the repair manual over this videos content. You can do it. Do it right and do it safely. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guaranty a proper repair using these techniques.

This is a simple video showing how to check a multimeter fuse without having to ake the fuse out. Simply place the multimeter in the Ohms function and then take the red lead, that's plugged into the Volt/Ohms port, and probe the Amps port. If the fuse is good there should be no resistance. If the fuse is blown the meter should show "OL".

In this video I go over the steps needed to replace the spark plugs on an 07 Ford Edge 3.5L. Other than removing the upper intake, which is shown in the video, the removal and installation of the spark plugs is very simple. Once the upper intake is removed the ignition coils will need to be removed. Once the ignition coils are removed then the spark plugs can be changed out. Once the spark plugs are replaced the rest is reverse procedure. Torque specs and spark plug gap not provided. Please refer to your repair manual for this information. Note: It is important to verify the spark plug gap, but in doing so use care not to damage the platinum tip. Usually, it's been my experience, the gap does require adjustment. Special notes: 1: At the 4:34 mark I show an electrical connector that plugs into the back of the intake where the pcv hose goes into the intake. This connector like any other electrical connector on this vehicle has a locking tang or a release clip that must be released before the connector is pulled off. 2: Use a "spark plug socket" when removing and installing spark plugs. This socket has a special rubber insert that helps to prevent damage to the spark plugs. Also, you saw me wratcheting the spark plug out like I lost all coordination with my left hand. This was sloppy and you should use care to keep the spark plug socket and extension centered and supported on the spark plug when removing and installing spark plugs. 3: At the 6:22 mark I go over removing the brake booster hose but do not show it. The spring hose clamp can be released by squeezing the ears of the hose clamp to gether. 4: At the 11:08 mark I mention just using a brake clean soaked rag, be sure it's a lint free rag, to clean the mating surface before installing the upper intake. If you cannot achieve a perfectly clean surface I would suggest using a green scotch brite scouring pad to lightly, very lightly, scuff up the surface. Wipe clean with a brake clean soaked "lint free" rag after scuffing. Here is a link to the scotch birte scouring pads I'm referring to: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-Brite-Heavy-Duty-Scour-Pad-6-Count-226-CC/202511521 5: At around the 15:45 mark and possibly in other parts of the video I refer to the "snorkel" as an air duct. I use the two terms interchangeably. I'm referring to the tube between the air filter housing and the throttle body. DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Also, Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques.

In this video I show how to disconnect and reconnect a Ford electrical connector with a red slide lock. This type of electrical connector is used on many ford vehicles and has been for many years. This connector requires that the red slide lock be pulled back. This allows the release tang to be pushed down. Once the release tang is pushed down then the connector can be disconnected from the component. The installation is the reverse procedure. Be sure to give the connector a tug after it has been locked in order to verify it is secure. Link to play list will be added as soon as more videos are available. DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques.

In this video I explain why it is unsafe to drive with bad ball joints. I go over three different scenarios of how a ball joint can be bad and how each three of those cases can cause your vehicle to be dangerous to drive. The first scenario I go over is a ball joint that has gotten so loose that it actually pops out of the socket. When this happens control of the vehicle is lost and in the worst case scenario control of the vehicle can be lost while driving. When this occurs the wheel on the side of the vehicle where the ball joint popped out is only partially connected to the vehicle. In the second scenario I explain how a loose ball joint can intermittently cause the vehicle to go out of alignment. When this happens it can cause the vehicle to pull either to the left or right. This is unsafe as the vehicle should only travel in the direction intended by the driver. In the last scenario I explain how a ball joint can actually seize or become difficult to articulate. This is usually caused by rust build up or lack of lubrication in the ball joint and can cause the vehicle to become difficult to turn. This is unsafe because a vehicle needs to be able to steer easily. Not being able to steer easily makes it difficult to maneuver around obstacles and this is not safe. In many cases ball joint wear is caused by improper lubrication. This can be caused by not lubricating ball joints (for ball joints that are serviceable.) or by ruptured ball joint boots. When ball joint boots rupture this allows the lubricant to escape and allows moisture and dirt to enter the ball joint. This begins the process of wearing down the ball joint. Busted boots are not good, but it does not necessarily mean that the ball joint is bad. Some techs may advise to just replace the boot while others may recommend ball joint replacement. (I suggest the later as usually when a boot is found to be busted it probably has been busted for a very long time. Just my opinion) DISCLAIMER This is only an informational video and is not a how to video. The information given in this video is superficial in nature and only goes over a few scenarios how a ball joint can cause a vehicle to be dangerous to drive. (there are other ways in which a ball joint can be faulty. The examples given in the video are just a few common ways that I have seen a ball joint fail or be faulty). This video is not a comprehensive video explaining all the nuances of automotive steering and suspension theory and operation and diagnostics. If you are not confident that your vehicle is safe to drive and are not sure how to properly diagnose and repair your vehicle then it would be advised to have a professional technician handle the situation.

This is part 1 of a 2 part series showing how to replace a primary timing chain, tensioner and water pump on an 07 Ford Edge 3.5L V-6. Part 1 mainly deals with the disassembly. This video will show the disassembly all the way to the point where the water pump has been removed. While the vehicle featured in the video is an 07 Ford Edge a good portion of the information is applicable for a lot of Ford vehicles that come equipped with a 3.5L or 3.7L with this water pump designed from around 2007 on up. You will need a repair manual for the particular vehicle you are working on to obtain correct information. I'd also suggest the use of a repair manual even if you are working on the same vehicle featured. (There are some differences between the years. Marks may look different and the vehicle you are working on may have very important differences that will require the correct information to properly do the job.) Torque specs are not provided. Here is a link to part 2 : https://youtu.be/o4npM0waXmY Note: The wiring loom on my vehicle was very brittle and coming apart. You can see in several points in the video where the pieces of the loom were lying on top of the engine. Use care not to allow this to get into your intake or engine. A few clarifications: At the 20:25 mark I mention not damaging hoses when breaking the seal with pliers. If you do not feel comfortable doing this then you can try breaking the seal by hand. At around the 34:23 mark I talk about placing wood between the jack and the oil pan. This needs to be done with the jack stand too if it was not made clear enough. Wood needs to go between the oil pan and whatever you are using to support the engine. At around the 42 minute mark I mention using a pry bar to pry the timing cover off of the engine. However, there are 6 threaded bolt holes along the outside edges of the cover. Bolts can be placed in the holes and tightened down very slowly and evenly together to push the cover off. Using bolts instead of prying could lessen the chances of causing damage. At the 46:38 mark I mention replacing the seal if you want to insure not leaks occur. This warning also applies to the 3 seals at the top of the bracket where the bracket mates into the cam phaser. (Again I reuse them and haven't had a problem yet. But, if in doubt replace.) At the 50:47 mark I mention not having to remove the guide on the left side of the screen unless you are replacing it. Removing this guide is a whole other ball of wax which involves removing the cam phaser that is blocking access to the top bolt. Instructions for this are not provided in the video. Here is a link to Part 2: https://youtu.be/o4npM0waXmY Here is a link to the video explaining how this Edge was out of time and why: https://youtu.be/pZyM3m-OEuI Here is a link to the cam holding tools. I used this exact kit. It worked fine for me. : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKHD37G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here is a link to the crank pulley puller. I did not use this particular brand. The puller I own I got from Cornwell tools. It did not come with any numbers so I can't link the exact puller I used. Note: I have not used the puller linked. It appears to be similar to the one I used and looks like it should work. Sorry, I'm only 95% sure this will work for you. I did see one review on this product where someone used this on an 07 Edge 3.5L and had no issues with it. Buy this at your own risk. I have no experience with this company and am not sure it will be a direct fit. (You can always rent this tool from a parts store. ) Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Harmonic-Balancer-Compartments-Removing/dp/B079J6T6JB/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ARES+71002+-+Harmonic+Balancer+Puller+Set+-+Remove+Damper+Pulleys+in+Tight+Engine+Compartments+Without+Removing+The+Radiator+-+Storage+Case+Included&qid=1588441961&s=automotive&sr=1-1 DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Also, Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual.

In this video I have a great example of failed radiator tank repair and explain the reasons I don't recommend radiator tank repair. I believe it is best to replace a radiator rather than using epoxies, patches or "welds". I've never had luck with them in this application. I'm sure there may be some products out there, that I haven't used, that work. However, when using a product to repair your radiator tank remember that the part of the tank you are not repairing is just as old and brittle as the part of the tank you are repairing. Even though you don't have cracks elsewhere on the tank at the time there is a good chance a crack will surface in the near future in a different spot. Because of this, and because of previous failed attempts at tank repair, it's been my experience that the level of frustration and disappointment associated with tank repair makes the cost of a new radiator VERY MUCH worth it. Just my opinion. Take it or leave it. Disclaimer This video is meant to share MY OPINION on the subject discussed. My opinion was formed out of many years working as an automobile technician. After several attempts at repairing radiator leaks using epoxies, welds, and the like on several different vehicles I've come to the conclusion that it's just not worth it. Many hours and some money has been wasted on trying to patch these radiators. It only left me frustrated and my customers disappointed. THIS IS MY OPINION BASED ON MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. My intention in posting this video is to save you some aggravation.

In this video I have a great example of what squeaking ball joints sound like. Squeaking ball joints can squeak when turning or going over bumps. A squeaking ball joint is usually caused by poor lubrication which is the case with the vehicle in the video. The ball joint boots busted quite some time ago allowing the lubricant to escape and allowed water and dirt to get in. This caused rust and a rough surface to build up on the ball and in the socket causing the squeaking noise when the joint is articulated. Note: This is just one way in which a ball joint can fail. Many times ball joints can clunk, knock and rattle due to excess clearance built up in side the ball socket between the ball and the socket. Disclaimer This is just one way in which a ball joint can fail and is only and example of the noise a ball joint can make if it has failed in this way. As mentioned in the video a ball joint can also make many other noises. This is only an example of one noise it could make. Also, a proper stethoscope or chassis ears diagnosis should be done to pin point the exact location of the noise you are hearing. Other components in the steering and suspension system can make similar sounds. This video is not intended to show how to properly diagnose a faulty ball joint. It is only intended to show you an example of one noise it may make.

In this video I explain how a lot of Ford 3.5L V-6 and 3.7L V-6 water pumps leak. This water pump design can be found on a number of Ford products that come with the 3.5L V-6 and 3.7L V-6. The particular vehicle featured in the video is a 2007 Ford Edge equipped with a 3.5L. This water pump design can not only be found in the Ford Edge but also the Ford Taurus and and Explorer ( and I failed to mention the Ford Flex) that come equipped with the 3.5L engine or the 3.7L engine. This water pump designed was used for many years from roughly 2007-2018. (maybe longer) There may be slight variations in design from year to year but the concept of how the water pump leaks is the same between the years. The water pump is timing chain driven which means that it is located inside the engine behind the timing cover. A lot of vehicles out there that have an externally mounted water pump, unlike the Ford 3.5L and 3.7L mentioned above, are equipped with a weep hole that allows coolant to leak directly from the water pump. But, because this water pump on the 3.5L and 3.7L is located in the engine it can't leak like a normal water pump. The coolant has to be channeled outside the engine so that the coolant does not leak into the engine oil. In this video I explain the design of this weep hole and how coolant is channeled out the side of the engine block through a special passage. I also, show it to you. Now, while it is typical for this water pump to leak from the weep hole, they can also leak into the engine due to catastrophic failure. The vehicle featured in the video has this problem and I explain how coolant got into the engine oil and mixed with it. (It's bad news). The bearing inside the water pump went out and caused play to develop on the shaft where the pulley mounts. The coolant leaked right through this. Note: This is just two ways in which this water pump can leak. I suppose the gasket could also leak but I've not seen that yet. The two ways mentioned in the video are usually how this water pump fails. (in my experience) Also, there is an upper weep hole that is directed into the intake valley. These water pumps can also leak into the intake valley. Also, This is not 3.5L V-6 Ecoboost used in a lot of late model Ford F-150s. (check your manual to see if the information in the video applies.) If you notice that your engine has a water pump that is externally mounted then this video does not apply to your vehicle. Just take a look and make sure. I think I'm pretty accurate with the list of vehicles and engine sizes mentioned above that have this type of water pump. However, you need to check me. Make sure. Verify that the vehicle you are working on is similar to the ones mentioned in the video. A repair manual is a must to be sure of this. At about the 2:11 mark I mention the freeze plug is not available. Well, its not actually a freeze plug. It looks similar to one, but it's actually just a plug that goes into the weep hole to restrict the weep hole. It doesn't totally block it, it just restricts it. I don't know if that part is available. That being said you don't need one, unless you took it out. Here is a link to a video describing the diagnostic process I went through to figure this out. https://youtu.be/pZyM3m-OEuI Here is a link to part 1 of a video showing the replacement of the water pump and timing chain: https://youtu.be/bBgsUS1awr8 I thought it was interesting that Scotty Kilmer discussed this in a video he uploaded as I was putting this video together. Here is the linke to the video. Take a look. He talks about it for the first 1.5 minutes. https://youtu.be/U9r-dV5Zc6A DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques.

In this video I'll take you along as I show and explain the diagnostic process I used to diagnose my faulty water pump on my 07 Ford Edge 3.5L. When I first got the vehicle for diagnosis it was running very poorly. It had no power and seemed to misfire a bit. The check engine light was on with code P0016 "Cam crank correlation" stored in the PCM. I checked the coolant and the oil. The coolant level was way down and the engine oil was way overfilled and had coolant in it. Sometimes when there is evidence of coolant in the oil it could mean that a head gasket is blown or that the engine has a cracked head or block. It could also mean that coolant could be entering the engine oil through other components, like an oil cooler if you vehicle is equipped with one. However, in my experience, it is not typical to see these kinds of faults on the Ford 3.5L engine that is used on the vehicle shown in the video. I typically see that coolant gets into the engine oil due to a leaking water pump. With the coolant being low and code P0016 set it made sense that the water pump was shot and leaking coolant into the engine. (The water pumps on these Ford 3.5L are timing chain driven and mount behind the timing cover.) If the water pump bearing goes out this could cause the water pump pulley to ride a bit crooked in the timing chain drive throwing the timing off a bit, thus the code P0016. Armed with this information I felt confident enough to tear down the engine to point of failure by taking the timing chain cover off the engine to inspect the chain and water pump. Once I got into it my suspicions were confirmed. The water pump pulley bearing had gone out. The water pump was leaking coolant and because the pulley was crooked just a bit it was throwing the valve timing off causing the code P0016. Now, I'm in the process of replacing the water pump, primary timing chain, and the primary timing chain tensioner. I'll have links of "how to" videos for this repair posted in this description whenever they become available. Note: There are two weep holes that the water pump can leak from. One is discussed in the video and is typically the one that leaks. The other weep hole weeps into the intake valley under the intake. Note: This is not necessarily a "how to" video. While it does contain a lot of good information in it and can be useful to you for diagnosing you own vehicle it may not lead you in the right direction. What is outlined in the video is the diagnostic process I used to diagnose the vehicle featured in the video. This may not be what is wrong with your vehicle. Experience is very useful when tackling a task such as the one shown in the video. You also must have an repair manual suited for the vehicle you are working on. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. Warning! Always wear safety glasses or goggles and protective gloves. I did not wear gloves in this video. That does not mean it's OK not to wear gloves. Nitrile gloves work great. Here is a link to a video made my Scotty Kilmer where he talks about 3.5L water pump leaks. It was uploaded just a few weeks after my video was uploaded. He speaks about it for the first 1.5 minutes of the video. I thought it was interesting. Here is the link: https://youtu.be/U9r-dV5Zc6A DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques.

In this video I show how to replace the headlamp bulb on an 04 Ford Ranger. First, the hood must be open and supported. Then the metal locking tangs, two of them, must be unlocked by pulling them upward. Once the locking tangs are unlocked then the headlamp assembly can be pulled out to gain access to the headlamp bulb electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb. (There is a plastic tang that is a part of the connector that goes over a lip or nub on the headlamp bulb locking the connector to the bulb. This tang must be gently pried up to unlock the connector while the connector is pulled away from the bulb.) Next, turn the locking ring counter clock wise to unlock it from the headlamp assembly. Once this is done the headlamp bulb can be removed from the headlamp assembly. Take the new bulb, using care not to touch the glass of the bulb, and insert it into the headlamp assembly. Place the locking ring back on and turn it clock wise until it clicks locking the bulb to the headlamp assembly. Reconnect the electrical connector. Place the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle using care to guide the three shafts attached to the headlamp assembly into the receptacles on the vehicle. Once the headlamp assembly is in then the metal locking tangs can be pushed down to lock the headlamp assembly in. Give the headlamp assembly a tug to make sure it is secure. And your done! As noted in the video: I would suggest wearing some sort of protective gloves when doing this repair. Sometimes it takes a little force to unlock the metal locking tangs from the headlamp assembly. When the bust loose it is possible to cut yourself on the sharp metal. Just be careful. DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques.

In this video I go over what engine oil may look like if coolant has gotten into it and I also go over a few possibilities of how coolant could get into the engine oil. Usually, when coolant gets into the engine oil, it can have a foamy or frothy look to it. It will be slightly lighter in color and it will seem thicker than normal oil due to foaming. Also, it is typical that the oil level will rise when coolant has gotten into the engine oil, as seen in the video. Typically if the coolant is low and the oil is over filled and looks foamy then you probably have an internal coolant leak. A few things that could cause coolant to get into the engine oil are as follows... Internal coolant leaks such as blown head gasket, cracked head, cracked block, damaged oil cooler, or leaking water pump. (If the water pump is internal to the engine in some way.) These are a few things that typically will allow coolant to get into the engine oil. Warning! Never run the engine with coolant contaminated engine oil. Serious engine damage could result. Note: The information given in this video is very basic and may not encompass every scenario as to how and why coolant could enter the engine oil. Also, if your engine has coolant in the oil it may not look exactly like the example given in the video. The video is just an example, not an exact representation of what every case will look like. Link to video showing final diagnosis of my 3.5L right here: https://youtu.be/pZyM3m-OEuI Here is a link to a video made my Scotty Kilmer where he talks about 3.5L water pump leaks. It was uploaded just a few weeks after my video was uploaded. He speaks about it for the first 1.5 minutes of the video. Here is the link: https://youtu.be/U9r-dV5Zc6A DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques. Special thanks to my wife for checking my spelling on this video and all my videos. You're the best Babe!

In this video I'll show you around my new 07 Ford Edge 3.5L V-6. I stumbled upon this vehicle at work. It had been ran with water in the oil due to a leaking water pump. The customer decided to get rid of the vehicle because she did not want to fix it. I made an offer and now here we are. I'm hopping to be able to replace the water pump and timing chain and get some more miles out this vehicle. Keep you fingers crossed for me! I'll release videos of the repairs and progress as I can and link them below.

In this video I show you how to disconnect a Ford transmission line quick disconnect. It's super simple and strait forward. You will, however, need a special tool to do it. Also, I should mention that there are two different sizes of quick disconnects like this that Ford has used over the years. (To the best of my knowledge there are only two sizes.) The disconnecting procedure is the same for both of them. See links below for tool information. Here is a link to the tool shown in the video. https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-8023-Disconnect/dp/B000FMO40A/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ford+transmission+line+disconnect+tool+ast&qid=1581218264&sr=8-1 Here is a link to the little brother of the tool shown in the video. Used for smaller transmission cooler lines: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XMG2NY/ref=psdc_15707681_t4_B000FMO40A Note: Barbour's Auto Help is in no way affiliated with Amazon or the makers of the above linked tools. I just wanted to provide my viewers with a convenient link to the tools that I would recommend. Note: A little transmission fluid may be lost in the process of disconnecting line. Check fluid and add accordingly after repair. DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques.

In this video I share my experience as to what the most common cause and repair is for a vehicle shutting off at idle. I explain that it, in my experience, is usually caused by a dirty IAC motor, aka IAC valve, and the fix is usually just to clean it. I even demonstrate how the IAC valve can be cleaned. I also explain what the IAC valve's purpose is and how it works. As mentioned in this video, the information in the video will not be applicable to all vehicles out there. Not every vehicle is equipped with an IAC valve similar to the one shown in the video. In those cases this video will not be of much help. However, IAC valves, similar to the one shown in the video, have been used for years an many different makes and models and the information will be applicable to many viewers. !!Note!! Some vehicle equipped similarly to the one shown in the video can sustain damage by performing some or all of the services discussed and shown in this video. These vehicles are few but they do exist. Please verify that performing the services in this video will not damage your vehicle before you attempt it. Read, read read. Research research research. If you do not have a repair manual specifically for your vehicle then you need to get one. Read your owners manual. Read forums specific to your vehicle. Do your own research. There is no way I can compile a complete list of vehicles that this service should not be performed on. I do know, however, that it has been very rare, for me, to find a vehicle that this could not be done on. DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guarantee a proper repair using these techniques. Special thanks to my wife for checking my spelling on this video and all my videos. You're the best Babe!Created with MAGIX Movie Edit Pro 2016