fintech

The airbag SRS light was intermittent on this 2012 Jeep Compass. With the right steering puller and clock spring this job should 1-2 hours. Scanner I used to Get the codes https://amzn.to/3tSYkwF Steering Wheel Puller https://amzn.to/3EVBpal https://amzn.to/3gAjDQt Clock Spring https://www.ebay.com/itm/255349119412 Sponsors http://www.oc3dtech.com http://www.fintechcommunications.com http://www.ocdatacabling.com http://www.ocdatasystems.com http://www.bloodlinefishing.com

I needed to tool that code read SRS trouble codes. Most devices that can ready SRS cost a few hundred dollars. Without a airbag code reader you are pretty troubleshooting blind. My Jeeps issue was the steering wheel clock spring. Codes: B1B02, B1B06 https://amzn.to/3EQGHCX Sponsors http://www.oc3dtech.com http://www.fintechcommunications.com http://www.ocdatacabling.com http://www.ocdatasystems.com http://www.bloodlinefishing.com

I had an odd / random problem with this 2012 jeep compass. The windshield wipers would come on randomly when turning the car or using the turn signals. The problem is the turn signal switch. In this video you can see how the windshield wiper switch is wired through and connected to the turn signal switch. https://amzn.to/3EzL0Ce Sponsors http://www.oc3dtech.com http://www.fintechcommunications.com http://www.ocdatacabling.com http://www.ocdatasystems.com http://www.bloodlinefishing.com

I was looking for another V6 hotend and I saw this browsing on Amazon. This thing is incredible for $19.99. Anodized blue aluminum, Copper Heat break and a brass heater block. https://amzn.to/3GB8hXf Sponsors http://www.oc3dtech.com http://www.fintechcommunications.com http://www.ocdatacabling.com http://www.ocdatasystems.com http://www.bloodlinefishing.com

This printer came in a few days ago. This one had a few different problems. The machine have V2 firmware running on a V1 Printer. The V2 software is for a bltouch. The capacitive touch problem and a intermittent endstop return wire. There was also a a super bad jam. Pieces of PTFE tube were broken off and stuck on the nozzle. I had to pull out my torch to melt the PTFE tube. Sensor that works with this printer https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-LJC18A3-H-Z-Capacitance-Proximity-NO%EF%BC%88Normally/dp/B0746FYF5S?crid=3AWOU3SAULPQE&keywords=no%2Bnpn%2Bcapacitive&qid=1668493388&sprefix=no%2Bnpn%2Bcapacivive%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-1&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=7e4760d9b3e4d3edf6f6bd6fd505bea9&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Sponsors http://www.oc3dtech.com http://www.fintechcommunications.com http://www.ocdatacabling.com http://www.ocdatasystems.com http://www.bloodlinefishing.com

This printer came in a few days ago. I had to order a new heater block. The heater block was stripped. The hotend is a E3D V6 and the nozzle that was in there as a Creality MK8. The extruder was also disassembled and missing pieces. Printer on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/The-Original-PRUSA-I3-MK3S/dp/B07FTMTVWG?crid=45YQQX19J4H2&keywords=prusa&qid=1668490124&sprefix=prusa%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.765d4786-5719-48b9-b588-eab9385652d5&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=f969baa6b7d86165555965933f85508c&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Sponsors: http://www.oc3dtech.com http://www.fintechcommunications.com http://www.ocdatacabling.com http://www.ocdatasystems.com http://www.bloodlinefishing.com

This printer was DOA from the factory. Its a fully assembled Voron 2.4 clone called a Videdino Troodon. The board drivers were burned out. The original board was a Duet RepRap clone. The customer wanted to get it going again so we got a BigTreeTech octopus 2209 kit with LCD. Most the Voron 2.4 I've seen klipper. I wanted to use the LCD so I got it going in Marlin. My sourcecode is below if you want to give it a try. Kit used in this video https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Octopus-8xTMC2209-Controller-Raspberry/dp/B09RWRBH47?crid=2AYOIQQ3IVTVW&keywords=octopus+2209&qid=1667779350&sprefix=octopus+2209%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=b0bfe0d0eb59864b97b2b8353a8f299b&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl My Marlin 2.1 source code Ask me, http://www.oc3dtech.com/contact/index.php#target Sponsors http://www.oc3dtech.com http://www.fintechcommunications.com http://www.ocdatacabling.com http://www.ocdatasystems.com http://www.bloodlinefishing.com

Got the Orca extruder finished. Working good as expected. Ultra light, easy to clear jams. Parts You will need: 3010 Blower Fan (Get the right voltage) https://amzn.to/3FM907t 3010 Hotend fan https://amzn.to/3DY2YiJ BMG extruder (You just need the internal hardware) https://amzn.to/3zJvDpj V6 Hotend https://amzn.to/3U8YaN4 Nema 14 Motor (Strong) https://amzn.to/3E0ZD2j Nema 14 Motor in this video https://amzn.to/3NEW7xR M2 and M3 screws https://amzn.to/3fuJOI5 If you found this video helpful or would like help fund future experiments. please donate below. Patreon http://www.patreon.com/fintechrepairshop Paypal http://www.paypal.me/fintechrepairshop Sponsors http://www.oc3dtech.com http://cinderclaus.com http://www.fintechcommunications.com http://www.ocdatacabling.com http://www.ocdatasystems.com http://www.bloodlinefishing.com Thingiverse page https://www.thingiverse.com/fintech/designs Orca Extruder Page https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5607191

I've done a few of these Silicon heated beds. AC is different animal then DC. I try and explain some safety concerns you might have when wiring one of these in. One of the issues with these wheeled printers is that they isolatet the bed from the frame of the printer. You need to run a ground strap up with the heated bed. Allot these lower end 3D printers come with a single Pole AC switch. In a single pole the Neutral wire will always be hot when plugged in. Upgrade to double pole you don't have power when the switched is turned off. Most people just turn off the switch and leave the power cord plugged it. Hopefully this helps. Silicone heated Bed in this video https://amzn.to/3savhUE Solid State Relay https://amzn.to/3Dc9m5D JST Connector Kit https://amzn.to/3TeBRVO Undermount Kit https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4981309

https://amzn.to/3MIDM2C I have another CR-10 S5 to upgrade. This is getting my Undermount kit and a AC heated bed. I also put in a BigTreeTech SKR E3 Mini 3.0 board. All these orginal frame style printers had these remote electronics boxes. Always a headache to move the printer My Undermount Kit on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4981309

https://amzn.to/3T7J5ux I love this skylight at night. The stars are incredible up in the mountains. Feels like your in a spaceship. Total nightmare in the morning when the sun comes up. I was looking for a cheap solution and did want to spend $300. I was surprised how well this works. https://www.homedepot.com/p/BlindsAvenue-White-Cordless-Blackout-Fabric-Cellular-Shade-9-16-in-Single-Cell-21-5-in-W-x-48-in-L-2G001-4821B/318765581 https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Donn-Brand-7-8-in-x-12-ft-Ceiling-Grid-Wall-Molding-SM7/100346094

https://amzn.to/3SJBhiI I'm doing a undermount kit for a customer and and the SKR E3 mini V3 and a dead Z axis. I'm suspecting a bad PCB trace because one of the stepper coils is getting power. The TMC2209 driver is communicating correctly with Marlin. Obviously you need two coils to move. Bummer, I have to pull the board back out again. The V2 board has a bad bootloader.

https://amzn.to/3St3gTa https://amzn.to/3xQ890W I just picked up this 3D printer on OfferUp for $40. If was an incredible deal. It came with a BLTouch, Dual Z steppers, Glass Bed, Titan extruder, E3D V6 hotend. Kind of funny, SOVOL uses creality mainboards. I will probably upgrade to a bigtreetech E3 Mini V3 with trinamic 2209 drivers.

https://amzn.to/3SmKn4m I wanted to confirm that my CNC spindle and lathe RPM's were accurate. I pretty surprised how well this works for the price.

https://amzn.to/3QV2aP4 I've had this rig off for over a month. I burnt these connectors years ago. I never had problems running RX 580. When I switched over to RX 5700 XT is started burning SATA connectors. The RX 5700 XT pulls allot more power through the PCIe bus.

https://amzn.to/3UjyI7Y I just saw this EthW last night. I had to modify my overclock setting. My normal energy efficient settings would not get the full hash rate. I'm guessing my core clock was too low. I guess we will see how it goes. I will come back when I get the overclocks dialed in.

This old CNC board came on my Offerup CNC machine. The is a very interesting board that runs quadrature mode. Its increadible that you can run a 4 axis CNC machine in that little box. I have all the functions working on mach3. The board is way to cool not to fix. https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Ranging-Temperature-Capacitance-Alligator-Clip/dp/B07P7V3YNT?crid=35QHRCZNQLGS3&keywords=multimeter+bside&qid=1663040567&sprefix=multimeter+bside%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-11&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=5743835b24b7297318fbce7e1d0350ce&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl My 3D printed Stand https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4504933

I had to buy one of these USB ST-Link to recovery some firmware. The board I'm recoverying is unique. It does not have a USB port or SD card to flash BIN files. Every day I seem more and more equipment with these ARM processors. Pretty amazing devices. https://www.amazon.com/ST-Link-Emulator-Downloader-Programmer-STM32F103C8T6/dp/B09MN4TLD2?keywords=ST-Link&qid=1662600615&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-11&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=62558306fd6c9455c67e2db09d82e683&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

I finally found a card that everything work the way I need it. These are Mid tier Ethernet controllers that run STM 32 Bit arm processors. They convert mach3 signals into LPT. There is a pretty cool LinuxCNC project for these as well. I have my NVEM running LinuxCNC. Below Are DIN mount on Thingiverse. EC300 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Control-Controller-Electric-Software/dp/B08LBVDVR7?crid=2DP843ZPNIZ7R&keywords=EC300+mach3&qid=1661994885&sprefix=ec300+mach3%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=31dbdb92be1e7986e0c6321b545fdfa0&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Din Mount on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5489821

I picked this up from Ali express. I'm impressed with the build quality. Novusun's products seem to be getting better. My Cradle Mount is below. Its can be 40mm pole flush mounted. https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Control-Controller-Electric-Software/dp/B08LBVDVR7?crid=2DP843ZPNIZ7R&keywords=EC300+mach3&qid=1661994885&sprefix=ec300+mach3%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=b48774581a269b78e057e430e3c02a3c&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Mount On Thingiverse Version 1 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5489728/edit Version2 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5489735

I bought this as a temporary controller. The wiring output were the same as the controller I'm getting so I decided to give it a try. I have two serious problems with this controller. One is the output bleads current during boot. I've noticed this is an issue with USB controllers. When the USB 5V gets activated is enables an output for split second. Another problem that I've on seen this controller is these weird Axis count glitching. The coordinates on the screen are intermittent. I created some DIN mounts for this. Check below https://www.amazon.com/NVCM-breakout-interface-Controller-12-32VDC/dp/B07C5KH4HB?crid=3QVQZR4PCJZJQ&keywords=nvme+controller+mach+3&qid=1661992561&sprefix=nvcm+controller+mach3%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-5&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=0aee239a75a841273e74dd0c999485eb&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Din Mounts https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5489640

These are pretty cool little servos that I wanted to test. I got the 90W and 180W nema 23. My only issue with these are they are not waterproof and I'm getting a strange hum. https://www.amazon.com/STEPPERONLINE-Integrated-84-98oz-20-50VDC-Brushless/dp/B094CR1SS9?crid=17JI7ZY0UAFTU&keywords=nema+23+integrated+servo+motor&qid=1661320592&s=industrial&sprefix=nema+23+integrated+eservo+motor%2Cindustrial%2C114&sr=1-2&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=bcc933c5c1f948954a838361b7e016d7&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl https://www.amazon.com/Integrated-3000rpm-63-73oz-20-50VDC-Brushless/dp/B09BVGGS57?crid=17JI7ZY0UAFTU&keywords=nema+23+integrated+servo+motor&qid=1661320821&s=industrial&sprefix=nema+23+integrated+eservo+motor%2Cindustrial%2C114&sr=1-4&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=d4122b7efe2b46aa79dc0fbfdc630f82&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

I was running this 9.0AH battery from Vanon and it completely died half way though a cut. This time the repair was easy. Just a broken wire I had to solder back on. https://www.amazon.com/Chaunven-BL1860B-Battery-Replacement-BL1890B/dp/B09T6KZ1NJ?crid=3IVCSLLVZ2C3B&keywords=BL1830%2B18V%2B9.0Ah%2Bvanon&qid=1661283459&s=hi&sprefix=bl1830%2B18v%2B9.0ah%2Bvanon%2Ctools%2C100&sr=1-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQURPQTVSSE4wUUdJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODU2NzE5MzM5VEFUVkRVUlI2NyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzQzNjk0MUc3TVA1UExHNDJRVSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=8b076a870be4f0ead0853edc9f4db6c8&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

This the first Xinkebot printer I've worked on. Its a very nice printer. There is a few issues with the design but not major. Every 3D printer design will have some sort of issues or design flaws. The problem with this printer was heated bed cable. The cable with do a hard 180% turn putting allot of stress on the wires. Wire that move around allot need to be arching. Eventually all moving wires break over time. The problem was you cannot buy this ribbon cable anywhere and the design will be a constant problem. I decided to run them out the back like a traditional FDM printer. https://www.amazon.com/XINKEBOT-Orca-3-3D-Printer-Independent-Dual-Extruder/dp/B09294YLHG?&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=a61e0ddd263beb0b39021a734a73e240&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

I thought I would explain how I control external devices like pumps and lights from my CNC machines. The applies to all Arduino base devices like GRBL, 3D printers, etc...One oghte key differences is most non Arduino based based CNC boards use a 24V outout trigger. Most 3D printers and Arduino type boards use a 5V output trigger. I prefer solid state devices like triacs and mosfets. 40 amp Solid State Relay https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PDHWZL1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=8fe32b9ccd4c3f5b725e92ab8fe338d9&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Opto Isolated Relay https://www.amazon.com/Relay-Module-Channel-Opto-Isolated-Trigger/dp/B09G6H7JDT?crid=3PDOU3MOIZV2X&keywords=Opto+Isolated+Relay&qid=1657671715&s=industrial&sprefix=opto+isolated+relay%2Cindustrial%2C117&sr=1-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=04cd27ec6e7bd4c79af080eabe50f450&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Mosfet https://www.amazon.com/DEVMO-Mosfet-Printer-Expansion-Current/dp/B0899XNG9G?crid=3I85CA8N1UTPO&keywords=3D+printer+mosfet&qid=1657671783&s=industrial&sprefix=3d+printer+mosfet%2Cindustrial%2C126&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExV1RGQzE1NUZGQVlBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjI5NTMxMTZVUko2NVFGNTkyVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTk4NTAwMTFRVlQ2NzNaN0hJUSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU%3D&linkCode=ll1&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&linkId=de16db7e9b059493d9adce19d86fe2b0&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl