HRI Services

In 2020 the owner of a boat had a hole in his aluminum fuel tank which required repair, but the owner didn’t want it repaired he wanted a whole new fuel tank. The tank for his boat was no longer available so I was contracted to copy what he had. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and my Outdoor Pursuits Facebook page. https://www.millerwelds.com/ https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.usa.canon.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

I purchased this GOODYEAR hose reel through Amazon and have been very happy with it. This original review was completed in 2020, it is now February 2023, and this hose reel is one item that I am still very happy with. The only downfall is the main bracket could be a little heavier as it has bent a little over the years from the retracting spring being so strong. You must restrain the hose as it winds on or it will go on so fast that it will bend the main metal frame. The size I had purchased was ¼” with 50’ of hose, it pulls out all the way and the spring retracts it completely. It can be mounted several different ways and I elected to mount mine against the back wall. The link below is the unit I purchased. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and my Outdoor Pursuits Facebook page. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFA35N2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.usa.canon.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

Hougen drills with annular cutters make accuracy count, these drills and cutters are the best there is, the holes are perfectly straight through, perfect diameter, and leave very little burr on either side of the material. They leave a round plug for each hole you drill. Annular cutters come in 1” and 2” lengths, the only downfall is sometimes figuring out how to set up the drill as it only has a 2” throw so laying out how you are going to make it work can sometimes be time consuming. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and my Outdoor Pursuits Facebook page. https://www.hougen.com/ https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.usa.canon.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

Ryan’s car is a Ford Mustang and he races it in Wisconsin, I will add more specific details when I receive them. This winter my wife and I were on a vintage snowmobile ride with Ryan’s father who is a long time friend of my wife’s family, and he asked if I could weld aluminum, that his son was adding a ProCharger to the front of the crankshaft of his drag car. I told him yes and talked about a few jobs that I was working on at that time. He said he would contact me when they got some of the parts fit up to where I could weld them. These parts include, the ProCharger section I weld in this video, the flanges to the pipe, the pipes themselves running to the air intake, and of course the connections to the pipe for the blow off valves. I have a weld or two in the middle of the pipe yet as the two ends are tied into the intake and ProCharger, but not in the middle yet, and the blow off valves and hardware also need to be completed. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, my Outdoor Pursuits Facebook page, and the Classic Chevy Parts page. https://www.procharger.com/ https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.usa.canon.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

This quick picture video is of a sailboat arch I made for a client, it was designed professionally, and I built it from the blueprints provided. At the time it was built diesel fuel was $6.00/gallon, and he was leaving Wisconsin after retirement to live on his boat in the South American area somewhere. With the high fuel prices he wanted to use wind and solar power to charge his batteries so he wouldn’t have to run his engine so often, you can see there is a wind turbine and two solar panels mounted to the top of the arch, and the back section of the arch pivoted and could set/lift his dingy from the water off the back of his boat with a winch. This was all constructed from 304 food grade stainless steel which we polished to beautiful shine. This was the largest job I had taken on with my business as I am a one man show, I did have some help with polishing this by my son & one of his friends. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and my Outdoor Pursuits Facebook page. https://www.millerwelds.com/ https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.usa.canon.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

Short clip on a pontoon repair I completed a few years back. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and my Outdoor Pursuits Facebook page. https://www.millerwelds.com/ https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.usa.canon.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

Short clip on a broken aluminum engine mount I completed a couple years back. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and my Outdoor Pursuits Facebook page. https://www.millerwelds.com/ https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.usa.canon.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

This video shows you how to rebuild a Mercury or Mariner outboard impulse fuel pump. The one shown is from a 1997, 90 HP Mercury carbureted model. I will remove it, disassemble it, and re-assemble it. The rebuild instructions are at the end of the video. https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.usa.canon.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

Observe a Mercury/Mariner WME 78 carburetor being disassembled cleaned, rebuilt, and re-assembled. The “78” is the carburetor size and the “1” means it is the top carburetor. You will need to know the size to verify correct parts when ordering. This is the fuel bowl drain plug and it is also used to access the main fuel jet. The jet can be changed with the carburetor installed but would be rather difficult. This is the idle mixture screw, it is the only exterior adjustment on the carburetor, and only adjusts idle air/fuel mixture. This is what gasoline does over time, the nasty green deposits plug your jets, fuel, and air passages, and will make you engine run lean as the jet passage will have a smaller open area for fuel to flow. This is why the fuel should be drained, especially if the engine will sit for more than a year without being run. These are the fuel inlet needles right after removal; you can see how the tip is extended and crooked. They in conjunction with the seat and float keep the fuel level constant in the fuel bowl of each carburetor. These must have been aftermarket needles as the fuel has had a molecular reaction with the rubber. This is a major problem, and will lead to inconsistent fuel ratios to the cylinders. OEM Mercury needles are made of all steel. New gasket kits and needles were purchased and will be installed in the three carburetors for this 90 HP Mercury outboard. Carburetor assembly will begin next; there will be some links at the end of the video, to find items like float settings, idle mixture screw initial settings, etc. Click the link below to go to the Mercury Marine website, then click “Launch Parts Catalog”, look for your specific outboard, stern drive etc, until you find the Mercury part number you are looking for. https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.usa.canon.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

This video is on the weld repair of titanium Yamaha Apex snowmobile exhaust, this was a first welding titanium, but I did buy some test pieces to work on before I welded on his exhaust. I am color blink and was told I would not be able to test at a welding facility because I would not be able to see the colors as I was welding. The job went very well but as you can see in the video I was a little nervous as this was an expensive exhaust system and I didn’t want to screw it up worse than it was. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and my Outdoor Pursuits Facebook page. https://www.millerwelds.com/ https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

On a 1987, 1200 Sportster, a gear in the transmission locked up at 70 and wrecked the gear cluster and broke the case. A closer view shows the broken case section that needs repair. As you can see there is just enough hole depth still in the case to use a locator pin. These three pictures show the new piece I machined, and welded in place. The shaft diameter was .375”or 3/8”. A 3/8” bolt was used to locate the newly machined part, and a wood block used to hold it all in exactly the right place and straight prior to tack welding. Just a little shot of the gear cluster that mounts there, part # 17-0029. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and my Outdoor Pursuits Facebook page. https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

Exmark Zero Turn with 52" Toro Snowblower is an Exmark lawnmower I bought in 2008, I had seen a picture of one with a snowblower on it but I believe the picture was doctored because I don’t think Exmark ever actually built one with a snowblower attachment before Toro bought them out. I found the Toro blower in Indiana on eBay and got it for $1000, it was at a college in Ohio, and they had only used it a couple times stored it in a corner, they had sold the mower but forgot they even had the blower attachment, lucky me! I ran and picked it up, mounted it to my Exmark, but it was just too heavy, and my mower would not move even with chains. I didn’t want to start cutting to add mounts for hydraulics so I put the project on hold until retirement. In January 2018 I retired, and in the fall of 2019 I started working on the project, I took these pictures as I went along on the build. I bought the hydraulic ram, hoses, and connectors through Surplus Center. The first attempt was not so good the blower is so heavy that with weight transfer, and a little frame flex, both of which I’d hadn’t figured for the rocker attached to the hydraulic ram was too long and hit the ground. After cutting it shorter and moving the hydraulic ram hole a little higher everything worked like a charm other than the rear of the Exmark now being to light. A major find on Craigslist a pair 75 pound Case tractor weights for $80, what a deal! I built a rack for them which worked out perfectly. They look like they were designed for my Exmark. Then I will show some footage from an 11” snowfall from last weekend 2-9-20. It doesn’t work quite as good as I thought it would, it could probably use a gearing change, maybe spin a little faster, but it seems my 27 horsepower has all it can handle now. I can clean my driveway pretty quick with it, so I’m happy with it! https://www.surpluscenter.com/ https://www.exmark.com/ https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

Making a neck Knife is exactly that, all of the information it takes to take a lawnmower blade and create a neck knife from that material. Heat to soften, design, cut, grind, drill, sharpen, harden, and final clean up. https://www.doorcounty.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898

This video gives the explanation of how to set the hydraulic lifters on a small block Chevy, this is shown with the intake manifold removed, and with my own gauge made from stainless steel heli-arc wire to verify the lifters are set at the correct gap that you want them set at which is between the .020”-.060” tolerance from the pushrod seat to the snap ring, which is what the lifters need to be set at. This method less my own verification is the standard method for setting the lifters and can be done with the intake manifold still in place. This information is pertinent for all small block Chevy engines, 283, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400, and all other small blocks Chevy's made by combining their parts. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, my Outdoor Pursuits Facebook page, and the Classic Chevy Parts page. https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/218766029078898 https://www.classicchevy.com/

This video gives a description of how to static time a small block Chevy, this is how to install the distributer in the engine and get the timing of the cam, and crankshaft aligned with the spark from the distributer prior to starting the engine. It starts out with some pictures and explanations of some of the various parts, such as the rotor and the distributer cap, it also shows which plug wire connection on the distributer cap is #1 cylinder, and you will need some of this information to complete the task. Then there is some video of the actual distributor installation. This information is pertinent for all small block Chevy engines, 283, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400, and all other small blocks Chevy's made by combining their parts. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and the Classic Chevy Parts page. https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.classicchevy.com/

This video is on using a Black & Decker valve grinder to rework the donut seating surfaces on old Chevrolet rams horn exhaust manifolds. The stone size that I used was a 2.5" diameter with a 45 degree bevel. This worked really well and left me with a great surface to work with; I no longer have any exhaust leaks. Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and the Classic Chevy Parts page. https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.classicchevy.com/

This video is on how to dynamic time your small block Chevrolet distributor, that would be after the distributor has been installed in your vehicle and using a timing light. During this video you will see me not remember to rotate the engine 360 degrees after I had adjusted the valves so that the distributer was 180 degrees off, popping back through the carburetor is how I knew that. When setting the valves you start out in the #1 cylinder firing position, set half the valves then turn the engine 360 degrees and set the rest of the valves, this puts the #6 cylinder in the firing position. If you do not rotate the engine another 360 degrees after the second set of valve adjustments and you install the distributor then it will be installed 180 degrees off. So now I need to remove the plug wires, cap, note where the rotor is pointing, lift the distributor, spin the rotor so it points 180 degrees from where it was pointing, and re-install everything. Notice I use tape to mark plug wire numbers for easy installation afterwards. Your vacuum advance on the distributer needs to be disconnected and the vacuum line from the carburetor plugged through the timing process, and the distributer hold down bolt semi-loose, my 1971 Chevy truck timing is set to 8 degrees before top dead center @ 900 RPM's. After the engine is running, turning the distributer counterclockwise will advance the timing and clockwise will retard the timing, verify your engines RPM's after initial timing is set then verify it again after RPM's are set. After the timing process is completed, shut the engine off and reconnect the vacuum line, and tighten down the distributor hold down bolt. Always be very careful you are working around rotating equipment, belts, and the fan, which in my case has no shroud! This video doesn't go quite as originally planned, but that's reality! Below are the addresses my YouTube channel which I no longer have access to, my Instagram page, HRI Services welding Facebook page, and the Classic Chevy Parts page. https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.classicchevy.com/

How to repair a steel rear tractor wheel which rusted through at the valve stem area as a result of the tire solution (calcium chloride used for weight) leaking from the inner tube. It covers using a needle gun to clean the wheel, cut out the section in need of repair, then fit up and weld in two new pieces of steel to complete the repair. Information on helping to prevent rust, using a mixture of tar and oil. https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.millerwelds.com/

This video is on the “Angry Beaver” wood processor it was designed and built by my brother-in-law Keven Berns. In the video we show the set up of the wood processor, Keven explains how it works, the specifications of the unit, and then you will get to see it operate with oak. https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/

This video is on repairing a pedal drive system that I bought with my Riot Mako kayak, I had gotten into some weeds that wrapped around the drives propeller and eventually created slipping or spinning of the drive in the upper pinion gear which is made of plastic. The solution I came up with, was adding weld material on the corners of the aluminum drive, grinding the corners to points, heating it up and melting it into the center of the pinion gear. I show disassembly of the upper gear housing, which you will see had some loose bolting in it, you will also see a picture slide show or the repair on the drive to make it functional again, and I have used it since this repair for two years now and have had no more issues.There is also one picture that shows the lower prop end of the drive, and it is the same design as the upper drive, I have not had any issues with the lower section so I did not change it, but I did also find some loose bolts there so you may want to inspect yours. Stay out of the weed beds with this drive unit. Good Luck! https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/

Video #10 is on the re-installation of the lower unit. What you will see being completed in this series of videos will be questionable to many. This is the second lower unit I have repaired in this same fashion, and both went on for many more years of service and saved the owners in the $1000.00 range. If you attempt this I cannot stress enough do not force anything, take your time. Please check video #1 for more of a description. Link to exploded view of the lower unit: http://www.sterndrive.info/outboardmotor/1978_1998_v4_90_degree_.html This video is very detailed and will also help you in assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2OV7sL8Zgg Any painting you want to do should be completed and seals #73 & #74 and the exhaust tube need to be installed on the lower unit before re-installation. The gear shift on the lower unit must be all the way in reverse to install the lower unit in order to hook up the linkage. See how the shift link on the lower unit faces forward or down in this case. You will need to rotate the propeller shaft while exerting upward pressure on the lower unit during installation to get the driveshaft splines lined up, sometimes a little jiggling helps. Too far yet to get a bolt started. Have all the bolts laid out as you will need to hold the lower unit in the upward position until you get a bolt started. Pull all the bolts up evenly, working from one side to the other and from front to back. I will pick up the tempo since it’s just bolting up! To install the shift linkage these are the tools you’ll need. This is the bolt you’ll be installing. This is the location of the installation. And this is a close up with the bolt installed. You will have to move the shift lever in the boat to align the shift cable with the shift rod prior to installing the bolt. It helps to put the bolt in at a little upward angle in the flexible claw tool. Got it in. Now to get it screwed in with a long straight blade screwdriver. Tighten it with a ¼” drive, long extension, swivel, and 7/16” socket. Fill with marine gear lube from the drain connection and watch for oil to seep from the full plug hole. There’s the oil. Install the upper full level plug. Remove the fill setup, and install that plug, and your done. Hook up your flushing ears, turn the water on, start the engine, and test your work. Be careful there is no water to slow the propellers rotation; do not shift from reverse to forward or vice versa until the propeller stops rotating. How about a little happy dance music? Good luck and happy boating. I hope the series was helpful! https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.millerwelds.com/

Video #9 is on the installation of the water pump, water pump key, and water pump housing. What you will see being completed in this series of videos will be questionable to many. This is the second lower unit I have repaired in this same fashion, and both went on for many more years of service and saved the owners in the $1000.00 range. If you attempt this I cannot stress enough do not force anything, take your time. Please check video #1 for more of a description. Link to exploded view of the lower unit: http://www.sterndrive.info/outboardmotor/1978_1998_v4_90_degree_.html This video is very detailed and will also help you in assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2OV7sL8Zgg Spread a light coat of gasket silicone on the cleaned gasket surface where gasket #13 and the pump cup plate #8 will mount. Install the gasket. Fits much better when I put it on the right way! Spread another light coat of gasket silicone on top of the gasket. Set the pump cup plate #8 in place, and align the gasket and the plate with the four bolt holes. Lubricate and install #10 O-ring on top of the pump cup plate #8, and then install the water pump impeller #9 into the water pump cup #8, in the correct rotation, now you’re ready to install the water pump. Align the impeller inside the water pump cup and slide it down the driveshaft, orient the pump to the flat on the driveshaft. Slide the water pump key #12 in the flat area of the shaft. Then slide the impeller and water pump cup over the key. It’s a little tricky, pull the water pump to you tight to the driveshaft, align and slide the key in. Lubricate and install O-ring #7 on top of water pump cup plate. Install the O-ring #11 in the bottom of the pump housing #6 using some gasket silicone to hold it in place. Slide the pump housing over the driveshaft and into place, aligning with the four bolt holes. Push down all the way, and install the four #5, 7/16” head, ¼” bolts. Tighten them down evenly using the criss/cross pattern verify no binding while tightening it down. Install the spline adapter on the driveshaft and rotate the driveshaft in its normal direction of rotation, and shift from forward to neutral and to reverse several times to verify everything works as it should. Install the tube guide #2 over the driveshaft, and attach with the screws #3. The lower unit is now fully assembled, come back for the install video #10. https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.millerwelds.com/

Video #8 is on the installation of the reverse gear, snap rings and propeller shaft bearing carrier. What you will see being completed in this series of videos will be questionable to many. This is the second lower unit I have repaired in this same fashion, and both went on for many more years of service and saved the owners in the $1000.00 range. If you attempt this I cannot stress enough do not force anything, take your time. Please check video #1 for more of a description. Link to some tools, including the pinion nut adapter kit: http://www.sterndrive.info/outboardmotor/id2.html Great information including videos and exploded views of many different OMC models: http://www.sterndrive.info/outboardmotor/index.html Link to exploded view of the lower unit: http://www.sterndrive.info/outboardmotor/1978_1998_v4_90_degree_.html This video is very detailed and will also help you in assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2OV7sL8Zgg Buy snap ring pliers: https://www.offshoremarineparts.com/93-13-1045.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA5aTUBRC2ARIsAPoPJk9wFPQBsX-Hotb4B7Ysnl0JFJ8QXMiLgohL8303qvf6221euzjL2qIaAnfrEALw_wcB https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.millerwelds.com/

Video #7 of the Johnson GT 150 lower unit crack repair/rebuild is on starting reassembly After you have verified that all of the bearings, shafts, and gears are in good shape, and replaced any that are not, you are ready to clean all surfaces of any grinding medium, aluminum fragments, and dirt prior to re-assembly. At a minimum you need to buy the complete lower unit seal kit and replace all seals, O-rings, and gaskets contained in the kit. During assembly use some sort of lower unit lubricant in my case I am using Amsoil Synthetic Marine Gear Lube SAE 75W/80W-90. Insert propeller shaft #37 assembly into the lower unit housing, with the shift detent #29 facing the top of the lower unit. If I were installing it straight & square, it would be much easier! Ahh there I got it. Install the new seal/ O-rings on #66 shift rod cover; install the shift rod assembly into the housing, threading the shift rod clockwise into #29 shift detent approximately 7 turns, not tight. Install the six 7/16” head ¼” bolts securing #66 shift rod cover to the lower unit housing. Use a criss/cross pattern while tightening. Lubricate and prep the driveshaft #21/24 for installation. Apply a Loctite 248 to the threads prior to installation of the pinion nut #28. I struggled installing the pinion gear #26 and pinion nut #28, a much better way is to position the lower unit horizontally and use a magnet tool to install the parts, see a link to a great detailed video in this videos description. Install the driveshaft #21/24 through the top of the lower unit and the pinion gear #26 and pinion nut #28 through the back of the lower unit. You will have to feel where the shaft is as you raise/lower it slightly to align the splines, and teeth on the gear and shaft, and the same for starting the pinion nut. I used a big needle nose to install the pinion nut #28, positioning it square and in the center of the shaft is a little tricky. Nobody ever said this was going to be easy, just take your time and be patient and you’ll get it! When the nut is correctly positioned, install the driveshaft adapter to the top of the driveshaft #21/24, spinning the driveshaft clockwise and holding the pinion nut #28, 7/8” to get the pinion nut started. If you buy the correct tools for this job it is much easier, I speak of the driveshaft adapter for the top and the pinion nut adapter for holding the nut. The pinion nut is now installed, torque it to 70 Ftlbs. If you plan to use a open end wrench like I did you will need to grind it down to the thickness of the nut. Lubricate the driveshaft for installation of #16 the driveshaft upper bearing housing and seal. Install and tighten the four 7/16” head, 5/16” bolts, again using a criss/cross pattern. Please come back for video #8 when we will finish assembly. Very thorough video to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2OV7sL8Zgg Great information including videos and exploded views of many different OMC models: http://www.sterndrive.info/outboardmotor/index.html https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.millerwelds.com/

Video #6 of the Johnson GT 150 lower unit crack repair/rebuild is on grinding the inside of the case. In this video I will grind the back side of the welds inside of the case, the only sections that need to be super smooth and accurate are bearing carrier surfaces which in this case the weld does not cross, snap ring areas, which in this case are the worst, and I will need to clean up the o-ring sealing surface which is important to keep the water section separate from the grease. The black/red arrow in the next picture shows the double snap ring area, and the white/red arrow shows the o-ring sealing surface. One part I do not have video of is grinding out the snap ring grooves which I used the same die grinder with a 1/16” x 3” diameter cut off wheel to clean the weld out of the snap ring grooves. The first bit I use is a deburring bit, very coarse. I am using a ¼” die grinder @ 60 PSI or so, the lower pressure gives the grinder a little less power and makes it more controllable. I use a 80 grit hard stone about 7/8” diameter. I have the trigger taped as the diameter of the case being small I cannot fit my hand in, also needing a flashlight, being able to see what I’m doing, and the angle of the grinder are all more important. You will see I start with a deburring tool on the die grinder, work to a hard stone, and to an 80 grit flap disc if it needs a very smooth surface like the o-ring sealing surface. You have to be careful going in and out of the case so you do not inadvertently touch an area in the case and create damage that will require more repair. Larger diameter wheel also require more care! Most areas in the case only require deburring, unless they are an o-ring sealing surface or where the bearing retainer is supported. You will need to rotate the case and support it so it cannot move while you are grinding. The best position to work/grind is always on the bottom!!!! Very gentle slow and accurate movements are needed I cannot stress this enough and you never want to grind below the original surface contour. Safety, safety, safety, I have ear plugs, safety glasses, and a face shield, if you get something in your eye while doing this you will probably bump the side of the case with the grinder where you don’t want to. I have added a section of steel angle to the grinder so I have more control of the grinder and can reach in just a little farther. Where I have to reach farther in was not a critical area, just some basic weld clean up. You can hear how low powered the grinder is at 60 PSI. An 80 grit flap wheel, 2 ½” diameter this is what you want for the final clean up of the o-ring sealing surface or a bearing retainer mounting surface. I looked but could not find an after grinding internal case photo, sorry! Make sure to take your time cleaning out the case internals after you complete the grinding. Video 7 will start reassembly. Thank you for watching. Great information including videos and exploded views of many different OMC models: http://www.sterndrive.info/outboardmotor/index.html https://www.youtube.com/@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay https://www.instagram.com/hri_services/ https://www.facebook.com/HRIServicesllc/ https://www.millerwelds.com/