DirtFarmerJay

If you don’t have a jointer, and you need a straight edge on a board, there’s a new option - coupled with your table saw - that is simple and economical - the Ripeeze! We’ll put it through the paces and show you what this great little tool can do for you! #tablesaw #boardedger #jointer We love it when we find a tool that solves a common issue. The story is even better when there is an entrepreneur in the story, the tool is made in small batches and the company owner is engaged every step of the way! That’s the story of Frank, the developer of the Ripeeze. Frank is a retired U.S. Marine and was in the construction industry for many years. Later in life, he owned a custom stair installation company. In the field, he found that many times he would have a piece of stock that needed to have a straight rip on the table saw, but neither edge of the board was true. An idea began to form in Frank’s mind that later came to fruition as the Ripeeze tool. Simple, well-constructed, and fairly priced, the Ripeeze positively affixes along one edge of the board, providing a secure edge to run along a table saw fence as the stock is fed through the blade. This results in a precise straight edge on the stock. The Ripeeze is then removed, and the straight edge is run along the fence as the board is fed through the blade a second time, resulting in a board that has two straight and parallel edges. While shop-made fixtures can be made in lieu of the Ripeeze, the economics, accuracy, and ease of use of the Ripeeze tool would suggest the purchase is a better idea. At the time of filming, there were two models available - the 5’ (1.524 meters) and 6’ (1.83 meters). Pricing was $72 and $86 respectively. For each of the models, the board length capacity is 4” (10 cm) shorter than the overall length. This made-in-America tool is a sturdy all-aluminum I-beam straightedge with sliding solid aluminum brackets and sharp threaded gripping pins (which can easily be replaced if the need should ever arise). The brackets are slid in place on each end of the board, tapped in place with a soft-faced assembly hammer, and tightened in place with the knurled knobs. The end caps of the main I-beam are constructed of a robust rubbery material, not brittle hard plastic. Nice! The brackets slide nicely and securely on the rail, and there is a nice knob provided for you to grip to securely guide the board through the straight-edging process. This allows you to get a straight-line rip faster than a jointer - and your table saw will cut right through any grain direction changes without tear-out. When you are done, the Ripeeze easily and quickly detaches from the wood. We do have a couple of suggestions for future editions of this tool. To keep it handy, we drilled a hole on one end to allow us to hang this up near the table saw. We suggest you do the same thing. Also, the points that grip the wood could be installed a bit higher in the adjustable blocks. They are very near the bottom edge and have a tendency to “blow out” the bottom. To counter this, we had to raise the straightedge portion of the tool to get the points to be more centered in the thickness of the stock. Another approach may be to put a third point in for a grip that resists rotation. These are minor areas, and we feel the product is a great value and solves a problem that many in the trades encounter. To learn more, or to purchase a Ripeeze tool, visit www.ripeeze.com. You can support a small company and solve a common problem at the same time! We think you’ll be happy with your purchase. Disclosure: Ripeeze provided us with one of their tools, as well as paid a small production fee to us. We agreed to provide an authentic product review and state what we liked as well as mention any improvements we felt were needed. Frank of Ripeeze readily agreed! There is no further compensation to DirtFarmerJay should you purchase any Ripeeze product. It is our pleasure to find great tools and solutions and feature them on our channel. Thanks for watching! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

There’s a lot of advice about trimming trees and not “topping” them. That’s good. But what about the bottom portion of the tree and how it affects the appearance of your yardscape? Here’s how to prune a tree - from the bottom up. #treetrimming #pruning #treepruning Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Trees can really “make or break” a yardscape. But if not properly pruned, they can actually detract from the appearance of your landscape, or diminish your home’s curb appeal. The emphasis of this episode is the bottom of the tree. This is called the “bottom horizon” of the tree. If the tree isn’t pruned far enough up on the trunk, it will appear more like an overgrown shrub - unruly and unsightly. Even a small tree, when it is pruned with clearance under it, will elevate the appearance of the tree, by providing a sightline under the branches. This also opens up other opportunities for uses, including mulching or ground covers. A common misperception about a tree’s side branches is that they will move up as the tree grows. That is, something that is coming off the trunk approximately two feet above the ground will later be much higher. That is incorrect. The majority of a tree’s growth is at the top. This is because the terminal buds on the upward-reaching branches are where new height comes from, not the trunk portion. Pruning the bottom portion of the tree also allows access for cultivation, mowing, or plantings. Said another way, it’s easier on you when you aren’t running into branches when you are working around the tree! Removing the bottom branches also stimulates growth at the top. After all, the tree only has a limited amount of growth resources, so why not direct it to the top to create a fuller urban tree canopy? JUST DO IT YOURSELF. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

A nicely set up bandsaw is a delight to use. But if the saw isn’t tuned well, including having the miter slots parallel to the side of the blade, it’s going to be difficult to get accurate cuts. The Bandsaw Companion from iGaging Tools is simple and effective for this critical adjustment! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop I really enjoy our bandsaw. It’s an older Grizzly® model, made in 1998. I’ve done some upgrades to it, including putting a stronger spring, better guide blocks, a link drive belt, urethane tires, and a task light. The table has also been polished and waxed. It’s fun to work on a tool that you’ve made even better! Even with those enhancements, getting a precise setup, where the table miter slots are truly parallel to the side of the blade, has been a hassle though. The solution has been the iGaging Bandsaw Companion. I have to give credit where credit is due though. I saw the tool reviewed by Roland Johnson in a recent issue of Fine Woodworking. Roland’s review piqued my interest enough to buy one. I’m glad I did. The purchase was a moderate investment - about $30. The tool is simplicity itself. Made of anodized aluminum, and finished in iGaging’s signature blue, the gauge is essentially a 12” ruler (it’s available in metric as well) with 1” increments etched on the face. In the middle of the bar, there is a recessed area with 4 rare-earth magnets beside the recess. By using a properly installed and tensioned ½” (12 mm) wide blade and affixing the bar with the magnets to the side of the blade (the teeth, with their side-to-side set going in the groove), the plane of the blade’s side is extended 6” (15 cm) in front and back of the blade. This provides reference points to measure the distance to the edge of the miter slots in the machine’s table. By loosening the adjustment bolts under the table, adjusting the table until the blade and miter gauge sides are parallel, and retightening, you now will get precise cuts at the right angle when using a properly adjusted miter gauge. This also provides another important reference point to allow you to set your fence parallel to the blade by setting it parallel to the miter gauge slots as well. This greatly reduces and even eliminates blade drift when using the fence for rip cuts. The Bandsaw Companion comes with an adjustable guide that allows you to create a hook ruler set to the length you desire. There are holes drilled on the main measurement lines, so you can use this as a compass as well. Nice extras! The iGaging Tool Company began in the machine shop setup tools segment. As interest in woodworking has increased, there have been more calls for preciseness in the wood shop as well. Many of the tools the iGaging offers had their genesis in metalwork. They have now developed a robust line of woodworking tools and have plans to offer more. iGaging Tools are available at many woodworking retailers and websites including Rockler, Woodcraft, Woodsmith Store, Highland Hardware, and Infinity Tools. For a complete list of sources, as well as to see the wide range of tools iGaging offers for many trade areas, visit igaging.com. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

If your oven won’t prewarm as quickly as it used to, or the oven won’t heat up at all, the likely culprit is the ignitor. We’ll show you basic troubleshooting to see what the problem is and how to do this repair yourself! #appliancerepair #ovenrepair #stoverepair Our stove has served us well for over 2o years. Recently, it took longer and longer for the oven to reach temperature, and then one day, it simply wouldn’t work at all. A technician told us it was likely the ignitor, and that parts and labor would cost around $425! We decided to see if we could do it ourselves. We’re glad we did! The part was under $100 from our friends at www.ereplacementparts.com. Our stove is a Maytag brand, but we found that the ignitor for our unit fits MANY other brands and years of manufacture. To ensure that our oven’s problem was indeed the igniter, we had to do a bit of process of elimination. First, was the stove/oven getting power? Yes - the display was active, and the light inside the oven could be turned off and on. Was there a problem with the power getting to the ignitor? Most ovens have two igniters and burner sets. One is under the floor of the main oven compartment, and the other is at the top and is used for broiling. We turned on the broiler, and shortly thereafter the igniter glowed, and the burner ignited. By then, we had determined it was highly probable that the bottom igniter was faulty. After removing it after removing just a few fasteners, we could see that there was a burned-out spot in the igniter. That igniter was toast (pun intended)! Using the procedure shown in this episode, we removed the igniter and replaced it with a new one. The problem was immediately solved. Something that is important to know about the igniter is that it is more than just the ignition source for the gas that is being emitted from the burner tube. The igniter also controls the gas valve that supplies the burner tube. If there isn’t continuity through the igniter, and it doesn’t glow and create a current draw, the gas valve won’t open. This is to ensure that gas doesn’t flow into the oven cavity (and ultimately the living space) without being consumed by flame. The particular part we ordered from www.ereplacementparts.com was #74007498 Gas Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount. The invoice had some other codes you may find to be helpful: SO-40146(3) SO-40222 SO-40566 SO-40597 Y. Sure you can call a service tech, but it will cost you plenty, and this is a simple repair you can do yourself with just a few basic tools. You can do this! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Our bronze-colored powder-coated porch railing was looking REALLY bad. The dust, grime, and calcium stains looked awful! Washing helped very little. Everbrite™ coatings to the rescue! #powdercoating #metalpolish #protectpowdercoating Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Powder coating is actually a specialized type of paint, applied thicker, more durable than typical paint - but it’s still paint. A coating. That means that it can become damaged, degraded, stained, or discolored over time. That certainly was the case with our front porch railing. Constructed as both a functional and artistic element of our house, it’s made of steel square and rectangular tubes, rebar, and metal leaves to resemble flowing vines. It gets compliments all the time - we love it! Here’s what we don’t love. How it became discolored, along with areas that are severely chalky-looking, due to extreme calcium deposits. Add wind-blown dust (we get a lot of “breezes” where we live), and we can use all the help we can get to keep the railing looking fresh, clean, and glossy. Our railing was challenged because lots of dust gets deposited on the railing and when we wiped it down, there were still lots of discoloration. This is mainly because sprinkler water lands on portions of the railing. Our water has a VERY high calcium content. We’ve been able to manage it INSIDE by using water softening and calcium cleaners when needed on glass and restroom surfaces. OUTSIDE is another story. Even a few weeks of water landing on the powder-coated railing and then evaporating off leaves ugly calcium deposits. Fortunately, we found a product kit that allows us to both clean the railing as well as coat it to give it protection, long-term washability, and a very nice sheen (almost like when it was new!). The product is EverBrite™. The company offers several products for metal and paint protection, as well as home products that keep stainless steel products (think sinks, appliances) from getting stained or “fingerprinted up”, as well as antimicrobial coatings. We used their flagship product, Everbrite™ on our railing. It is a clear, protective coating that restores the color and luster of chalky, dull, or faded siding as well as painted (remember, powder coating is a type of paint) or anodized metals (think of many types of aluminum shapes and extrusions). Everbrite is also a metal protectant and will stop copper, brass, or bronze from tarnishing or oxidizing. For those that live by the ocean or salt-water inlets, this is fantastic news! https://www.everbritecoatings.com/ Or - https://renewmetal.com First, you need to remove the calcium and other impurities using either provided product (“EZ Prep™ in the Everbrite™ kit we purchased, or the cleaning product CLR (which stands for calcium, lime, and rust). Its main active ingredients are lactic and gluconic acids. Using rubber gloves, we applied the CLR first, working a manageable area at a time. We used it on all rail portions, doing all processes in a workable section at a time. After the CLR had done its work, we rinsed it off with lots of water. This removed most of the CLR while diluting the mixture to a point that it didn’t harm any plants in our flower bed that borders our front porch. Next, the surface needs to be absolutely neutralized. A WATER RINSE WILL NOT SUFFICE. We brushed down the section with baking soda water (about a 1/4 cup in a 1-gallon pail of water). The fizzing told us that there was indeed acid still on the surface. Once the reaction subsided, we rinsed it all again with clear water. While the surface is still wet, you can see what it will look like when you put on the Everbrite™ sealant. If it looks good, you’re ready to go. If not, do the cleaning steps again to see if you can improve the results. In our case, it looked great. Once the railing section was dry, we applied the Everbrite™ product with the supplied application pad, let it dry, and lightly buffed it with a dry cloth. It looks fabulous. We still get dust and calcium on the railings (it’s outside after all!), but it is easy to wipe off with a bit of moisture and touch-up. This has been a near miracle after so many attempts to get this to look good. The EverBrite Company offers Everbrite™ kits to make the job easy and so you have all the supplies on hand to get to work. The kit contains Everbrite™ protective coating, EZ Prep cleaning concentrate and neutralizer, 2 prep pads, 2 microfiber towels, 2 applicators, and nitrile gloves. Based on our positive experience, we’ll obtain and report on other Everbrite™ products. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

#cordlesstools #blower #leafblower This completely portable DeWalt blower 20v, the DeWalt DCBL722, which has enough output to do the job of removing debris or clearing off an area, is REALLY handy! A year ago we bought the DeWalt® DCBL722 Axial Blower as a bare tool - without a charger or battery. The unit cost $149 and is part of the DeWalt® 20V Flexivolt Platform. We’ve used the DeWalt leaf blower for over a year, and we continue to be impressed by its performance, battery run time, ease of use, and it’s weight. The tool without the battery weighs just under 8 pounds/3.6 kg and is well-balanced even after the battery is added. The packaging was more than adequate and the contents were nested well and damage-free. There are only 4 items when the package is opened - the main blower unit, the tube, the concentrator tip, and the documentation. Assembly is easy, although the latch that holds the blower tube to the blower body can be tricky. Figure out how it works before you assemble the unit because it’s easier to put the unit together than it is to take it apart! Some key specifications include a sound rating of 61dB, velocity output of up to 125 mph (201 kph), and the maximum CFM (cubic foot per minute) produced by this unit is 450. Practically, this unit packs enough power to quickly clear a smooth area or lawn of leaves. It’s not too heavy, well balanced, and has a reasonable run time before depleting the battery. We get about 20 minutes of run time with a 5 aH battery before having to swap it out. You can get more by running the unit at only the speed you need to get the job done. Use the unit’s built-in “cruise-control” on the trigger. This allows you to bring the motor up to the speed you desire, and then set it there. This can extend the run time, as well as reduce “blowback” when you point the unit towards a corner or wall - or when you are blowing debris into a slight headwind. We found this tool to be very handy and have decided to store it in the house along with other household care and maintenance tools and supplies. Check out this hanger/charger base we made for placement in our mudroom: https://youtu.be/4b2wQGgaowY To see our original review of the tool, visit: https://youtu.be/aOHSSIPD8Z4 We’ve used this blower to clean our garage floor, front porch, driveway, sidewalks, and even garden gravel pathways. It’ll work for dry leaf clean-out in gutters as well! Bottom line? Do we still continue to recommend this tool and were our initial impressions correct? Yes and Yes! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

#ratchetstrap #ratchet #loadsecurement Even though ratchet straps are commonplace, they can be REALLY confusing to thread, tighten, loosen, and store. In this episode, we’ll make it all clear, along with things to be sure you and the load you are securing are safe and secure. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop To get the most from a ratchet strap, it needs to be threaded correctly and the strap tightened properly with the best routing around the load being secured. The excess strap (“tail”) needs to be stored in such a way that the strap will not come loose and be at risk of being caught in tires, drivetrains, and the like. Lastly, the strap needs to be loosened using the ratchet head properly, and the strap and ratchet head put away together neatly so they are ready to go to work the next time duty calls. In this episode, DirtFarmer Jay will show you how to intuitively thread the strap through the ratchet head, secure a typical load, tighten the strap without fouling the ratchet head, and release the tension on the strap safely using the ratchet head. He’ll give you the viewer tips, many from professional drivers, that he’s received from earlier episodes on using ratchet straps. To see the best way to secure the excess strap, watch DFJ’s favorite method: https://youtu.be/1UXSH_7SkPg Here’s the best way we’ve seen to store a combined set of the strap and ratchet head, without using any additional products: https://youtu.be/2CDbwszg8U0 Life is better when you JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

When it’s time to loosen the straps and unload, the job’s not done until the ratchets and straps are put away well, ready to go to work the next time duty calls! This is the best way we’ve found to keep your straps and ratchets neatly stowed and easy to put to work. #cargostraps #cargo #ratchetstrap #organizationideas Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Ratchet straps are a necessity for the active homeowner or outdoor enthusiast. These hard-working devices, when properly used, are dependable tools to secure loads and assure that property is delivered safely to its destination. When the transport is done, the job isn’t - until the ratchet straps are put away well, untangled, and ready to go to work again when duty calls. Whether you store your ratchet straps in a bucket, stow bag, hang on a railing, or under the seat, having each set put together, and wrapped well, will really reduce frustration and wasted time when you need the straps again. Here is DirtFarmer Jay’s favorite method for quickly and simply wrapping up each ratchet strap set so that they can be put in that favorite storage location, but not be tangled with other sets, or have the hooks exposed so they catch on everything. This method is simple, memorable, effective, and uses only the strap set itself. It only takes a few moments to commit it to memory, and you’ll thank yourself for using this method every time it comes time to secure a load. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

We don’t like to cool our entire home when we only need cooling where we are most of the time. How did the NewAir NEC500SI00 stack up for smaller area cooling? #coolingfan #coolingpad #cooling Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop This portable combination fan and cooler is a great addition to our home. For those that live in drier climates, the optional evaporative cooling feature allows you to direct cool air directly into an area without having to cool the entire home. If you live in a high-humidity area, evaporative cooling has minimal effect, so that feature on this fan unit will not be of much value to you. The unit is attractive and a nice size. It can be set to 3 different speeds, with and without evaporative cooling. The water reservoir is large enough that it doesn't run out too quickly. There are different modes, including speed changes, timer, and "swing", which blows the air in a random pattern. It's pretty quiet, too. While minor, there were a few things that we think could be improved. Learning the different settings is a bit of a challenge, and isn't entirely intuitive. Fortunately, there is a guide that you can work through to understand what the different settings do. Secondly, to add water to the reservoir, there isn't a door that you can flip open and pour water in. You need to pull the drawer partially open, and pour water in that way. This is minor, but it would be better with the access door. Also, you need to be careful with a full reservoir when rolling the unit around as it can slosh water on your floor! Overall, we think it's a good value and allows you to spot cool an area, and the timer feature is handy (it can be set in 1/2 hour increments up to 7.5 hours) for bedtime until the room cools down at night. The unit is serviceable and looks like it will serve us well! We'll come back and do another review in a year to let you know if our initial impressions hold up. If you’d like to buy one of these, you can get 10% off of your purchase price by utilizing this link: https://glnk.io/m38y/dirtfarmerjay and promo code: FARMERJAY10. We think you’ll be happy with the unit, or we wouldn’t be recommending it! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

The job of securing a load with a ratchet strap isn’t done until the excess strap (“tail”) is secured as well. Here is the best method we’ve found so far, and we really like it. We think you will too. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop #tiedowns #ratchetstrap #securingloads It’s easy to focus on the “business end” of a tie-down strap when the load has been secured by the ratcheting action of the handle and hub. However, the job isn’t done until the surplus end is gathered and secured. Flapping loose ends not only fray and wear the strap, but it’s dangerous. One of my family members failed to secure the end of the strap that was securing a load in his pickup truck. On the freeway, going about 75 mph, there was a sudden explosion of glass from the back window. He thought they had been shot at - no joke. The tail had flapped its way under the truck and got wound up on the drive shaft. The strap wound up and snapped while pulling the metal hook loose off its connection to the truck bed and turning it into a projectile that went through the cab’s back window. The load was now loose as well. One of our viewer family members also related observing a large flatbed trailer with the tail end flapping off the side. It wound up under the trailer’s tires at high speed, snapping the strap in two and displacing the load. Again, it could have been really bad. Lesson learned? Securing the end is part of securing the load. In fact, it’s usually the law. Load securement includes tail end safety. In the U.S., the DOT (Department of Transportation) takes this very seriously. DirtFarmerJay shows you his favorite method to stow the tail end securely, but easily undone when it comes time to release the load and stow the ratchet strap set. Here’s DirtFarmerJay’s favorite method for stowing a ratchet strap set: COMG SOON! Don’t be embarrassed if every time you use a ratchet strap, you have trouble threading it property , Don’t you just love being able to do stuff? JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon

Canola oil is a relatively new product, and if someone tells you they have raised canola plants, they are having fun at your expense! Tune in and learn why! #canolaoil #rapeseedoil #rapeplant Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Canola oil is a relative newcomer to the grocery shelf. One of several types of “vegetable oil”, it didn’t become available to the American consumer until about 1986. There is no such thing as a canola plant. Canola oil is actually from rapeseed. The seeds are from the rape plant, which is a member of the Brassica family. Gardeners will recognize other brassicas such as cabbage, mustard greens, and Brussels Sprouts. The rape plant, rapeseed, and rapeseed oil has been around for a long time, but it’s easy to see that the plant and its products have a branding problem! It’s not only the offensive name but the undesirable characteristics of rapeseed oil that had to be bred out over time. It also has to be processed in a certain way to produce the mild-flavored oil we now know as canola oil. The Canadian seed oil industry rebranded the product in 1978. “Canola” is loosely based on “Canadian Oil.” It’s become very popular - accounting for about 1/3rd of the cooking oil production in the world! The journey from rapeseed to finished canola oil is somewhat complex, The basic process consists of separating the seed, then slightly heating it and crushing the seed. The vast majority of commercial canola oil is then extracted using a hexane solvent. This solvent is recovered at the end of the process. Final processing consists of using water and organic acid to remove gumminess and fatty acids. The oil is then filtered and steam distilled to deodorize it. And there you have it. One of the most successful rebranding stories of all time, right there in your kitchen pantry. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

When it comes time to replace or repair window or door screens at your home, you can just do it yourself! The supplies are readily available, and only simple tools are needed. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop #screenrepair #screenreplacement Screen repair or replacement is surprisingly simple and takes only a minimum of tools: a tape measure, hacksaw, masking tape, and needle-nosed pliers. The supplies are easily obtainable at your local home-improvement store. You’ll need replacement screen, screen spline, and a spline roller. If you are also replacing the frame, you’ll need frame stock, corners, tabs, and screen frame tension springs. All of these are easily obtainable and at a very reasonable price. If at all possible, use the existing frame to measure from. This will reduce measuring errors. If the screen frame is heavily damaged or missing, you’ll need to measure the opening into which the screen will be placed. You will need to subtract about 1/8” top to bottom, and up to ½” side to side to allow the screen room to be placed in the opening, pushed to one side, and fit into the space it will be held in. If you are using the existing frame, use your needle-nosed pliers to grip the old spline at a beginning point and pull it out carefully. Hold the frame to the work surface as you go to avoid bending the frame or breaking the corners. Once all is cleared out and the screen removed, you are ready to place a new screen, using properly sized spline material. Cut a piece of replacement screen about 2” oversized both in width and height. Center the screen over the frame and make sure the pattern in the screen is running square to the frame. If you like, you can tape the screen to the work surface along the top edge to resist movement as you begin installing the spline. Beginning in the lower lefthand corner, press in the spline and work counterclockwise across the bottom and up the righthand side. As you come back across the top, right to left, make sure this is a slight amount of slack in the screen so that when the spline is pressed in, the screen is taut, but not overly tight to either tear the screen or to “hourglass” the frame. In large screens, it’s helpful to place spacers between the top and bottom frame pieces, to resist bowing while the screen is being splined in place. If the screen frame needs to be replaced, determine the finished screen size and cut the frame pieces to length, shortening each piece by the amount used up by the corner piece. The pieces can be cut using a hacksaw, or even a carbide circular blade on a miter saw. If cutting by hand, be sure to support the frame stock so that it is not distorted when you cut it. Before assembling the frame with the four corner pieces, be sure to install any frame springs and pull tabs. The frame springs are usually secured by the corners, so don’t get ahead of yourself! Once the frame is assembled, then you can proceed to install the screen as outlined above. It takes a little practice, and we mean that literally. After working with the materials and the tools only for a bit, you’ll have the process going smoothly with great results, and you’ll enjoy being able to replace or repair window screens easily and economically. Why? Because you JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

#tape #maskingtape #ducttape It's a hassle losing the end of the tape as it sticks to the roll and you need to locate it the next time you go to work with your project! There's a better way. When you first open the tape or are finished using it each time, simply insert a small object like a penny, a medium-sized washer, a bread-bag closure tab, or a paper clip under the end as you get ready to stow the roll. When you need the tape the next time, you'll immediately locate the end, and be able to easily lift it and do what you need to do. Simple, cheap, effective. JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

These triangular magnets cling tenaciously to any ferrous metal surface, allowing you to make use of them for several purposes. Our favorites include as a temporary fence or stop block on a table saw or band saw top, as well as routing lamp and power cords as needed. While the 90° angle on the sides is close enough to temporarily hold ferrous metal perpendicular to each other until they are joined via welding, I wouldn't count on them to be absolutely square! Do you have some uses in the shop that you'd like to pass along? Let us know. JUST DO IT YOURSELF

Awnings are literally a cool addition to add to your home. We had fabric-covered units and didn’t like how they performed or looked - so we re-skinned them with metal. You can do the same thing! #metalawnings #awning #awnings Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop The south-facing windows on our home have awnings on them. The summer room temperatures in those rooms are almost impossible to control without the windows being shaded. We love what the awnings do for creature comfort, but we were not pleased with the covering performance or appearance of our awnings. A common approach for awning coverings is specially treated fabrics meant to resist the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays - which fade and “sun-rot” the fabric over time. The first coverings we had were a dark gray, but they didn’t last long and the manufacturer replaced it with our choice of a more sun-resistant fabric (even though the first one we had in the original installation was supposed to be). We saw fading and discoloration beginning again after a couple of seasons, and frankly, we didn’t like the striped look - it didn’t go with anything else on the house! DirtFarmerMaggie suggested we cover them with metal. At first, I thought this was a way too ambitious project, but the more I thought about it, the more it made sense. We were getting the house painted, and white metal awnings would look and perform WAY better than what we had. Join me as I walk you through the process of “re-skinning” the awnings, and some tips and tricks learned along the way. While we were able to “repurpose” our existing awning frames, you may not have that luxury and need to start from scratch. If you do, here are some basic dimensions and proportions to remember. First, you want the shade about the top 2/5ths of the window. That means that the bottom edge of both the front and sides of the awning should not rest any more than about 2/5ths of the distance from the top of the window and certainly more than one-half. Second, you can have the front edge be narrow, or have a skirt along the front (like we did). We think the skirt, which is about 4” tall, looks classy. Third, the angle the top runs down is about 45 degrees (or for you roof builders - 12/12 pitch). Fourth, overbuild. Attach skins to the framework with lots of pop rivets where the connection allows and use lots of “metal-building” screws elsewhere. These units are going to be exposed to the elements - including high winds, so make them stout. Finally, the frames are attached to the house using specialized clips that the awning hangs on, and then the bottom of the sides are drilled into the house. These are not moving! We are really pleased with how these turned out. Not only do they look fantastic and are extremely durable - but there’s NOTHG like the sound of the rain on them. Sure, you can have someone do this for you, but why? JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

#electricwire #wiregauge #electriccable The gauge system for U.S. wire and cable seems to make no sense at all! The larger the number the smaller the wire? What gives? Wire and cable in the U.S. are sized using the AWG (American Wire Gauge) system. This system is not universal, there are at least two others in the world. In the U.S., the AWG number indicates the size of wire (single conductor) or cable (multiple conductors in a single sheath). But why the inverse relationship between gauge number and diameter (and associated current carrying capacity)? When wire manufacturing first began, the number of times the wire was drawn and stretched was the gauge number. The more times the wire was stretched, the smaller the diameter. Now, that makes sense - once you know the story. Visit us at dirtfarmerjay.com for bonus blog and recipe content, and dirtfarmerjay.com/store for great shirts, stout coffee mugs, and hats that will get the word out that when it comes time to fix or build something around your place, you JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

#rebar #concrete #rebarproject Rebar stands for "reinforcing bar" - used in concrete construction in a wide range of applications. Whether columns, slabs, foundations, sidewalks, decks, or driveways, rebar is the "go-to" method of reinforcing concrete. Concrete possesses high compression strength. When forces are weighing down on it or pushing in on it, it is quite robust. But when the concrete is placed in tension (forces pulling it apart), its tensile strength is not very high all on its own. Cracks will tend to appear. That's where rebar comes in. The ridges on the rebar give something for the dried concrete to grip and stay in place. Rebar can strengthen columns too. Sufficient rebar carries weight on its own so the concrete in the column doesn't have to carry as much weight. But what is up with rebar sizes? #3? #8? #4 and so on? Why not just call out the rebar diameter in 1/8" increments, such as 3/8", 1/2", or 5/8"? The answer is simple. Rebar is sized in the number of 1/8" increments. So, #3 is 3/8", #4 is 4/8th's (1/2") and #8 is 8/8th's (1"). Cool, huh? If you liked this, visit us at dirtfarmerjay.com for bonus blog and recipe content, and dirtfarmerjay.com/store for great shirts, stout coffee mugs, and hats that will get the word out that when it comes time to fix or build something around your place, you JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

Signs, banners, apparel, and tarps all can have grommets installed in them. We’ll show you how to use an inexpensive kit as well as a grommet machine to install grommet reinforcements. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop #tarps #bannergrommets #howtoinstallagrommet #grommetsizes Grommets are metal reinforcement rings installed to strengthen the area of material where ties, ropes, cable ties, or bungee cords will be pulling on the material. This can be for camping gear such as tarps, sunshades, or tents. Outdoor banner signs are another common application where the sign is affixed to posts or a crossbar. The attachment points need to be very strong to resist wind pressure without tearing out. Grommets are also used with shoes and other apparel items to reinforce where lacing secures the item. In this episode, DirtFarmerJay will show you how to grommet using both an inexpensive grommet tool and supply kit as well as a grommet machine. The machine makes sense if you are doing a lot of grommets on materials that can easily be flattened (vinyl, tarp sheeting, fabric). We are event organizers (with plenty of banner signs!) and found that using a machine is much easier and more efficient. The initial investment (about $80) will be recouped very soon in consistent results and speed of completion. Whether using a kit or machine, the process means choosing a grommet location that is far enough “into” the material that the grommet resists tearing out under tension. If the material can be doubled by folding over the edge or in a doubled-over hem, all the better. Once the location is chosen, a hole is punched through the material. The hole matches the size of the grommet. Common sizes are #0 (6 mm, roughly ¼”), #2 (9.5 mm, roughly ⅜”), and #4 (12 mm, roughly ½”). We typically use #2 and #4 grommets. In manual kits, this is done by striking a punch with a hammer and driving it through the material into a wooden backing block. An anvil is placed under the material facing up with the “male” part of the grommet set on top of the anvil with the barrel of the grommet protruding up through the hole. The grommet washer (“female” side) is then placed on top of the material over and around the grommet barrel. The two then are pounded together using the inserting punch. It’s pretty straightforward but very manual. The benefits are that for doing a few grommets from time to time, this is very inexpensive and the space needed is very small. This is because you take the tool to the work. The grommet machine makes the process speedier with much more consistency. The machine can typically accommodate different-sized grommets by changing out the anvil and punch plate. You bring the material to the machine, as the machine is mounted or clamped onto a work surface with space to both sides of it. This allows you to unroll material on one side and roll it back up on the other. The machine uses the barrel of the male portion of the grommet to punch the material at the same time the barrel is being pushed into the grommet washer and cinched. The machine we have allows you to place grommets about 3 -4” from the edge if need be. We bought our machine from DIYOutlet.com for about $80, plus shipping. We think it’s well made, intuitive to use (even though it comes with a pictorial instruction manual), and installs grommets flawlessly. Here’s the (just about the longest!) URL for the machine at DIY Outlet: https://thediyoutlet.com/products/grommet-mahine-w-0-2-4-dies-900-grommets?token=68da5fdfc9cc06d6b35e2d174f00ca748ec640d0&utm_source=yotpo&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=map&ref=yotpo_8 When you’ve got a lot of grommets to install, you don’t need to have the supplier do them and charge you for the service. Now, you can JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

#garagedooropener #garagedoor #garagedoors When you use your garage door opener’s paired car remote or wall-mounted control, the door opens and closes instantly without delay, sound, or lights flashing. But when you use the app your door opener’s manufacturer supplied, the door will open right away, but if you close the door, the delay, sound, and light flashes begin. Why all the drama? What’s wrong? Well, actually, NOTHG. This is a safety feature. Because you can operate the door from anywhere that has wifi or cell phone signal, you don’t know for sure if someone is by the door when it is being lowered. The delay, loud beeps, and flashing lights all are warnings to those by the door that it is getting ready to come down. And - that’s a good thing! Mystery solved! Check us out at DirtFarmerJay.com for great bonus content, product reviews, and merchandise, including t-shirts, rugged coffee mugs, and hats that will all help you get the word out that you prefer to JUST DO IT YOURSELF while supporting the DirtFarmerJay channel! www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop

#wetland #wetlands #resilience Several hundred acres burned, literally to the ground, several months ago. All the burned trees and shrubs give away that fires raged through this area recently. In fact, when you walk into the area, you can still smell burned wood and grass. From a short distance, it all looks like nothing happened. That's because the wetland plants continue to thrive and have rapidly grown back, beginning a week after the fires were extinguished. What's their secret to survival and even thriving? An extensive root system that the fires could not overcome. There's a lesson - a metaphor - for us here as well. If we want to thrive through the trials and obstacles of life - even those things and people that wish to harm us - we must have a healthy root system of skills, integrity, rich relationships, and patience. Having those roots will give us the resilience we need to not only have the resources we need to prevail, but also "bring something to the table" in other key relationships in life. Every time DirtFarmer Maggie and I drive by the area, it's a powerful lesson for us. We hope it is for you as well.

An old Baker’s Rack can be reconfigured and outfitted as a bin storage system, clamp rack, and tool organizer. We are still in the prototype stage, but see what we’ve done so far! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop #shoporganization #storage #toolbox Our friends Kim and Jesus gave us a couple of rolling baker racks from their Puerto Rican restaurant. They are aluminum construction, so they are easy to modify. We made one into a solar dehydrator (we’ll feature that another time!) and one into a shop storage column that serves many functions. The rack needed cleaning and we did that with spray on degreaser and a brass bristle brush. Once clean, we removed the integrated caster wheels and replaced them with a robust wood frame base with heavy-duty locking swivel casters. With a solid base and improved smooth mobility, it was time to work on the top. The “L” frames on the sides were mostly too close together for the tool cases and DeWalt® lock-top storage boxes. So, we drilled out rivets on several sets and put the frames wider apart (using short ¼” bolts, nuts, and thread lock) so that our storage bins would fit. It’s still a work in process as we determine what we like where, but we feel we are on the right track. We bought some commercial pans that fit the rack, but found the aluminum sliding on aluminum, with significant weight, needs some help in the form of UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) plastic tape. This makes a slippery surface and allows trays to slide about easily. As it is now, our rack has active parts storage, some tools, pull-out trays for various purposes, and racks temporarily attached for clamp storage. The tools are either on sheets awaiting further organization or in the plastic clamshell the tool comes in (such as a Kreg® pocket hole jig), or trays. We are still finalizing the design but found that wooden flat trays with slots to ride along the edges of the rack trays do not work very well. The is too much friction so they don’t slide smoothly or easily. As for the sides of the rack, one side is presently dedicated to Rockler® clamp racks. They are temporarily affixed to the sides. We like the placement, so they will be bolted in place shortly. The other side is an open slate. Candidates for placement on that surface include more clamps, squares and straight edges, layout tools and spray can racks. We’ll see and report on that when the time comes. If you’ve got some ideas or comments, let us (and your fellow viewer family members) know. In the meantime, JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

Whether it's speed square, combination square, or framing square, you count on the tool to accurately measure 90-degree angles. But, how do you know if the square is square? Easy! Place one leg of the square or its reference edge along the straight edge of a board or piece of plywood. Mark a line along the other leg, then flip the square from side to side and place it along the straight edge once again. Align the other leg about a 1/4" (or cm) from the line you just made, and draw another line. If the lines are parallel, your square is fine! If not, it needs adjustment. In the case of a framing square, check out this episode where we show you how to make the adjustment: https://youtu.be/hvVK2lOirBM Be sure to visit www.dirtfarmerjay.com/blog or /shop for great content and merchandise! JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

You've got a level you depend on to know if something is absolutely level or perpendicular. But, how do you know if the level is reading correctly? Simple! Place the level on a surface - it doesn't even need to be level - but it does need to be flat. Then note the position of the bubble in relation to the lines on both sides of the bubble. Also note the position of the level, either visually or by marking a line around each end of the level. Then, turn the level around, side for side, with the bubble still facing up. Now, look at the bubble again. If it's the same position as before, the level is calibrated. If it's not, then you need to adjust the bubble. If it's non-adjustable, it is time to get a new level. Be sure to visit www.dirtfarmerjay.com/blog or /shop for great content and merchandise! JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

Plain old brown masking tape used to be all that was available. Not anymore, there are blue tapes, and now green FrogTape®. More expensive than the other two, but is it worth it? Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop A quick look on a home improvement store’s website will now show a myriad of tapes for all types of surfaces and uses, and well as extended time that that tape can be left in place before removal, as well as solvent resistance, sharpness of cut lines, and how flexible the tape is. However, for many homeowner uses, the three main tapes that many people are familiar with are kraft (tan), blue, and now, green tape (most well known is FrogTape®, made by ShurTech Brands, Inc.). Masking tape is used in a variety of industries and can be used for all sorts of uses at home as well. Let’s look at the three main types. The brown tape that has been around the longest is the cheapest to make, so its price is the lowest. But economy comes at a price - it isn’t very strong, and the adhesive dries out pretty rapidly after the tape is applied. If the masking isn’t removed shortly after installation, it is tricky and undependable to remove. Blue tapes, most commonly made and distributed by 3M®, have found wide acceptance. More expensive than the previous tan product, it also offers advantages such as strength, thickness and flexibility, visibility, better sealing ability for better paint cut lines, and extended time for removal of the tape. This tape has certainly found plenty of uses in our home and shop. Green masking tapes are a relative newcomer to the market and have become quite popular for all their enhanced masking abilities. These don’t come without a higher price tag, though. When this episode was filmed, the price for a roll of .94 inch wide by 60 yds. long tape for FrogTape® was $7.74, 3M® blue was $3.86, and tan kraft paper tape was $2.98. That means the tan kraft tape is 21 cents per square ft., the blue tape is 27¢ per sq. ft., and the green tape is 55¢ per sq. ft. So, is FrogTape® worth it? You’ll need to decide, but it does deliver on its promise of sealing the edge of the tape better and resisting paint bleed under the edge. It certainly is visible, making it difficult to leave something taped that was supposed to be unmasked. We asked our friend Kenny, who is a professional house painter what his opinion of Frog Tape is. He said, “it’s really worth it!” Having said that, you can bump up the sealing performance of other tapes by running a light bead of caulk on the edge (say, along the intersecting corner of door casing and the wall), getting the painting done, and removing the masking shortly (within a few hours or less) thereafter. People have gotten very good results with properly applied tan kraft paper tape for many years. Proper application means carefully placing the edge of the tape where protection from painting is needed and pressing down the edge well over a surface that is smooth, dry, and not dusty. Increased performance can be had with both the tan and blue tapes by putting a thin bead of caulk over the edge, and wiping it down so that only a thin coat of caulk remains. Once dry, painting is done, and the tape is removed within a couple of hours. FrogTape® stacks the odds of success in your favor by having a superior adhesive that seals the edge better and can stay in place longer without the adhesive drying out or seizing the surface it is applied to. Having said that, no tape does well being exposed to direct sunlight for several hours or even days. The bottom line? Use the tape best suited for the job, including how fast you can remove the tape - the sooner the better. As for us, we’ll use FrogTape on critical trim jobs, but will use the blue tape for most of what we do. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

If you don't grow your own watermelon and instead buy them at the grocery store or the farmer's market, here are some things to look for that will assure you get the sweetest, juiciest, and best-textured melon! Rounded melons tend to be the sweetest. The melon should feel a bit heavy for its size, and have a soft sheen to it in the light. Ultra-shiny melons are likely not ripe - so not very sweet. The field spot - that light area on the melon that sat on the ground in the field - should be either deep yellow or orange. This indicates field ripening - where the most sugar is produced. Lastly, the sound of the melon when you rap your knuckles on it will tell a story as well. A low, hollow sound indicates ripeness, as well as plenty of moisture in the melon, which is a sign of juiciness. If the melon "rings" high or sounds "tight", it is unlikely it is ripe, sweet, and juicy. If you found this to be helpful, check out our blogs at dirtfarmerjay.com, view our other videos, and stop by our store at www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop for great merchandise, reasonably priced, that will let others know that you JUST DO IT YOURSELF!