DirtFarmerJay

Having cool drinks and food on hand for outdoor work or recreation in the yard is really great! We review Newair’s NCR053SS00 Outdoor Refrigerator - what did we think? #refrigerator #outdoorliving #outdoorkitchen Product Model: NCR053SS00 10% Discount Code: JAY10 Affiliate Link: https://newair2018.myshopify.com/discount/JAY10 Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Hi friends! This is Rob the Cameraman for DirtfarmerJay. I’m usually behind the camera, but this time around I’m reviewing the Newair NCR053SS00 Outdoor Rated Refrigerator. Our friends at Newair provided this unit to us at no charge with the encouragement for us to give an authentic review of the product and our experience with it. That’s what you’ll see! In addition, we’ve scheduled to take another look at this product one year from now to see if our initial impressions are validated. You can find that second review here: SCHEDULED FOR APRIL 2024. Because my family has a back porch recreation area with children that enjoy the outdoors, we had this refrigerator shipped to me for us to test and use. We think it's going to be a great addition to our outdoor living space. Let’s see what you think. The unit came packed very well on a stout base that the unit and the protective packaging were secured to. The unit isn’t overly heavy, but with the packing, it’s a bit bulky for one person to handle. FedEx delivered the unit, and the driver used a dolly to place it in our garage (Thanks, FedEx!). Unpackaging was straightforward. As the main securement straps were cut, the upper packaging lifted off fine, and the unit was in pristine condition. It’s a stainless steel unit and has a very nice appearance to it. The power cord is of nice quality and of sufficient length. The unit is spacious inside, almost 6 cubic feet/170 liters! The top is of sufficient gauge/thickness to be able to use it for setting things on. It’ll be handy because it’s beside my grill/smoker unit. Assembly is quick, consisting of attaching the handle to the door, installing the shelf brackets and shelves (3), setting the desired temperature, “door open” alarm on or off, and temperature scale in either Celsius or Fahrenheit. The door is self-closing, and there is a nice interior overhead light. The shelves, clips, and door handle are all nicely packed inside the unit, as well as an instruction manual, in multiple languages, that will walk you through how to do the settings, as well as how to register your unit for its warranty. Based on what we see, this is a substantial commercial unit and appears to be very durable. We anticipate it will serve us well and will allow us to keep it clean and keep the underside clean as well. The unit is not cheap, and you can find other lesser-priced units, even in the Newair product line. But, if you want something that will last for a long time, has a decent capacity, will keep looking good, and is easy to service, then perhaps you can consider this as an investment, rather than an expense. If you’d like to check the unit out or purchase one, here’s the information you’ll need. Product Model: NCR053SS00 10% Discount Code: JAY10 Affiliate Link: https://newair2018.myshopify.com/discount/JAY10 This is Rob, the DirtFarmerJay Cameraman, signing out. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

When it comes time to replace your old automatic dishwasher - don’t fret! It’s actually a pretty easy process with a minimum of tools. We’ll show you how! #dishwasherrepair #dishwashers #appliancesforeveryhome Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop When your automatic dishwasher breaks, it’s really inconvenient. You quickly realize how much you depend on that appliance when you need to switch to hand-washed dishes for a while! We’ve found that there is usually a waiting time to get the appliance as well. Apparently, gone are the days of going to the store, seeing the model you want, paying for it, and taking it home. So, you need to wait to have it delivered, and then in some cases, wait longer until the installation can be done. While you can’t eliminate the delay in the delivery of the appliance, you can save both time and money by taking out your old dishwasher and replacing it with a new unit. This job isn’t that difficult and takes relatively few tools. To remove the old one, unplug the power cord, turn off the water supply, disconnect the discharge hose from the food disposal unit, and take out the screws that are holding the unit in place under the counter. Then slide the unit out slowly to assure the power cable, discharge hose, and supply line are all trailing along with no snags. When the slack in the water supply line is taken up, you’ll need to unscrew it from the valve body under the dishwasher, usually located up front at the bottom under the toe kick. Have a towel to drain the water from the supply line and the discharge hose. When they are empty, you can then disconnect the power cable if you are going to reuse it. Then, you are ready to set the old dishwasher aside. Now, reverse the steps. Route the water supply line under the new unit to the valve bottom and fasten using an adjustable wrench. Wire the power cable to the power connection box. Now route the new discharge hose back through the cabinet side opening to the food disposal and attach it securely. IF A NEW DISPOSAL HAS BEEN INSTALLED, THE KNOCK-OUT PLUG MUST BE REMOVED FOR THE WATER TO DRAIN. Wiggle the new unit almost home in the space cavity, plug the unit in, and turn the water supply back on. Test the unit to make sure it powers up correctly, water runs when the cycle begins, and that water drains through the discharge hose correctly. If all is well, slide the unit completely into the space, using the top of the interior as a lifting and pushing surface. DO NOT USE THE FRONT DOOR to push the unit with your hands or knees, as it is likely you will dent the door. Be sure the unit is level, and then attach the appliance with screws through the mounting brackets and into the underside of the edge of the countertop. You just saved yourself about $150 to $200. Congratulations! It really pays to JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

You’ve probably seen the social media ads for the Carlton Hardware firewood splitter drill bit you mount in an HD drill motor. It looks almost effortless - but did the product deliver? #firewood #firewoodprocessor #woodsplitter Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop We heat our shop during the winter months using a wood-fired stove. It’s not unusual for temps to be well below freezing, so having a dependable heat source is not only handy - it’s critical. We typically burn hardwood that has been cut by an arborist friend of mine. He needs to place to economically drop woodchips and logs, and I can use both! Much of what is brought to us is Chinese Elm. It burns hot and long, but it is very stringy-grained and doesn’t readily split. We do also get other wood types such as pine, fir, and cedar. These are softer but need to dry to split well by hand. We don’t have a hydraulic splitter - yet! We do plan to invest in one. In the meantime, I’ve looked for various tools and approaches to ease the task of wood processing to have a good supply of fuel on hand for the shop stove. Wedges and splitting mauls have become my friend, as has my Stihl® chainsaw that my son gave me. However, when I saw the ads for the Carlton Hardware firewood splitter bit, it looked interesting. We ordered it, got it, installed it in a heavy-duty commercial drill, and went to work. Frankly, we found it had limited use, simply because it tends to dig in and get stuck readily, especially on harder, strong-grained wood. When this happens, you really need to be holding onto the drill while having the piece of wood secured. The drill will tend to twist out of your hand somewhat violently if you don’t. If the bit sticks, it can’t be backed out, because the threaded shaft will simply unscrew. You have to rock the bit back and forth - which isn’t easy on the drill. We found that you can only use the bit very near the edge or at the very end of the piece of wood with small portions of the wood being split off. Would we buy it again? No. It was about a $50 investment all in with a couple of extra shafts and shipping. It works, but only moderately, and I think there are easier ways to get smaller splits for kindling. If you do want to get more information or purchase one, you can visit: https://carltonhardware.com/products/firewood-drill-bit Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Your vehicle’s exterior vinyl, plastic, and rubber trim will eventually fade and lose its sheen due to outside conditions, especially UV light from the sun. Can GX-3 Plastic Restorer really bring all of them back to like-new condition? Find out! #plasticrestoration #tireshine #autodetailing Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop No matter how much you wash and wax your vehicle, the plastic, vinyl, or rubber trim and body parts will start to lose their sheen, flexibility, and deep coloration. The main culprit is the relentless ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun. We recently had our truck in the shop with our long-term mechanic friends. They’ve taken care of our vehicles over the last 15 years or so. The truck needed some major work on the engine, and when my friend Pat returned the vehicle to me and we popped the hood to take a look at the work that had been done, the entire engine compartment and engine components looked like they were new. That’s when Pat told me about Cristal Products GX-3 Plastic Restorer. He’s a big fan of the stuff and uses it himself on his vehicles, including keeping a nice sheen and protectant on tire sidewalls. We’ve found this really works well. It’s sold in a spray can, the same size as better-quality spray paint. You can apply the restorer either directly from the can or by spraying it on an applicator pad and then applying it more precisely without overspray. Pat said I could buy it online, but he’s found it at Walmart in the auto supply section for about $5 a can - slightly less than the online price. He keeps several on hand. I went to a local Walmart and picked up a couple of cans too! Although the can states you can visit Cristal Products at cristalproducts.com, that website is no longer active. The correct website is: https://buycristalproducts.com The product description on the can says that it is good for plastic, vinyl, and rubber and has compounds in it that allow it to stay on the surface for many washings. It can also be used on the vehicle’s interior leather. We found it to work well, have a pleasant scent, and not make the leather overly slippery. You’ll find that the company has a variety of detailing products at reasonable prices. The company is located in Puerto Rico - a U.S. Territory. The can states that the product is made in the United States. Our initial impressions are very favorable. It’s easy to apply, and if there is overspray on glass, it’s easy to get off. If you want a deeper color or higher sheen, apply two coats, waiting about 15 minutes between applications. You can see an immediate difference, and when used on step rails, it isn’t overly slippery, so your grip on the step is still steady. In a year, we’ll return and let you know what the long-term results are and how durable this product has turned out to be. The initial results are great, but we’ll let you know how well this works through a set of seasons! Sure, you can pay a detailer to restore your vehicle to like-new condition, but with Cristal Products GX-9 Plastic Restorer, you can JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

If you heat your home or shop with a wood stove, then you’re going to create a lot of wood ash. The good news is that it can be used in your garden - with a few caveats. #woodash #potash #potassium Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Wood ash contains a lot of potassium and calcium as well as smaller amounts of magnesium and phosphorus, and micronutrients such as copper and zinc. These are all desirable in the garden, whether a food plot or an ornamental space. If you’ve got a fireplace or woodburning stove, then you’ve likely got ash to dispose of. Appropriately used, ash can be used as a resource, instead of being something to deal with as a waste product! Keep a couple of things in mind. Products such as particle board, oriented strand board (OSB), medium-density fiberboard (MDF), Masonite® type products, peg board, treated lumber, or railroad ties should not have been used for fuel in the ash you’re going to use in the garden. There are too many chemicals, glues, and binders to deal with to yield ash that doesn’t have toxins. The same goes for plastics, cardboard, melamine, or painted wood. Next, keep in mind that ash is alkaline, meaning its pH is higher than 7. Wood ash was the historical way of producing potash - which is also known as lye. To make lye, our ancestors soaked ash from wood or plant material in water and collected the resulting water-soluble alkaline solution. This solution is called potassium hydroxide, caustic potash, or lye. Lye is used in manufacturing a multitude of products. A few of those products are soap, paints, cleaners, drain cleaners, biodiesel, textiles, and fuel cells. When using wood ash in your garden or yardscape, remember that if you have alkaline soil (pH greater than 7), then you need to use the ash very lightly so as not to increase the pH further. If the soil in your area is acidic (pH lower than 7), then wood ash can be used in greater quantities and will actually help bring the soil closer to a neutral pH of 7. No matter where you are, don’t put piles or clumps of ash in any one area. The proper application method is to dust or spread the material on a calm day (we recommend you wear a dust mask just to be safe!), on moist ground, or water it in immediately after if the soil is dry. Wood ash is extremely water soluble and will “melt” into the soil quickly when water is applied. This gets the potassium into the root zone of plantings and delivers its full benefits right away. You can use the ash in your compost pile as well if you use the same dusting process and don’t add more than 5 to 10% total volume to the pile. The pile will get a nice potassium boost without changing up pH and disrupting the composting process. Lastly, no matter what area of the country you are in, rhubarb plants tend to acidify the soil around them because the leaves contain oxalic acid. At the season’s end, the leaves decompose around the base of the plant and over time can make the soil acidic. This tends to affect the color of the rhubarb stalks. Acidic soil tends to grow green stalks with a minimum of red. This is a great opportunity to use what is typically thought of as a waste product as a growing and soil-conditioning aid. That’s a win-win! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

The jobsite is wet, with mud and puddles of water - and you need to operate your power tools to get the job done. There’s not a GFCI circuit to plug into. NO PROBLEM. wattswire.com/DFJ #GFCI #extensioncord #electricity Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop When working in wet or moist conditions, or out in the open on bare ground, the risk of shock or electrocution due to a faulty ground circuit in your tools or power supply cord is a very real risk. While jobsite code pertaining to temporary power supply boxes while construction is underway requires GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruption) outlets, there can be lapses. Or, if working at an existing business or home site, no such circuit may be where you are. At times like this, it’s easy to fall into the temptation to simply use your usual cord and get to work. Don’t do it! There is a better and MUCH SAFER way! Watts Wire® offers a suite of GFCI extension cords. We made use of the 3’ (91cm) multi-outlet lighted power cord. The unit is very well made with heavy-duty double-jacketed yellow cordage, robust semi-translucent plug ends, and a beefy set/reset control box. The cord strain protectors are very nice, and the cordage is rated for 15 amps, 125 volts, and 1875 watts. While there are three outlets on the end of the cord, you need to keep in mind that the COMBINED power draw must not exceed the rating of the cord. A feature of ALL the Watts Wire® GCGI extension cords we REALLY like is the triple tap end with the three plugs angled slightly away from each other. This allows you to use bulky plugs without them colliding with each other. GREAT feature! After seeing the quality of these products, we can see why Watts Wire® doesn’t hesitate to provide a 3-year warranty against all manufacturing defects. If there is a defect in the warranty period, they’ll replace your cord free of charge. Nice. Use this link when you visit Watts Wire and get 10% off your purchase. We really like these cords and think you will too! wattswire.com/DFJ We’ll review this product after it’s been at work for a year and tell you what we think after it’s been used in a variety of settings and projects! Watch for the review HERE: ONE YEAR REVIEW COMING IN THE FUTURE! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

The birdseed bag is easy to open (without a knife!) if you know the secret! Also, pardon the mispronunciation of "palatable" when I say, "palable", which is NOT a word! By the way, the approach of placing the bag on the ground, with the paper tape end of the bag up, works for many stitched bag products. Simply straddle the bag, and have the paper tape side on the right, and the chain side on the left. Then grasp the paper tape on the right and pull it back towards you to have the top "unstitch" almost magically. Give it a try! Be sure to visit www.dirtfarmerjay.com! Where you can learn to JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

As popular as DeWalt®'s portable miter and table saw stands are, they have an “Achilles Heel” - the brittle mounting clips that hold the brackets to the saw stand. There’s a great fix on the market, and it’s BETTER than what DeWalt® offers! #mitersawstation #sawstand #toolrestoration Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop DeWalt® DWX7231, DWX726 miter saw stands, DW7440RS, and DWE74911 portable table saw stands are VERY popular. Coupled with DeWalt®’s miter saw and table saw portable lines, these hardworking tools have become a common sight on the construction site. DeWalt® isn’t the only manufacturer of these tools. Other sought-after brands include Makita®, Milwaukee®, Bosch®, Ridgid®, Grizzly®, Ryobi®, and the latest, SawStop®. They all have various approaches to the stands and carts offered with these products. However, DeWalt® has been in the market for a long time (about 3 decades!) and has gained quite a following. DeWalt®’s tool mobility product is made up of a collapsible bottom section with wheels and stiff arms that allow the saw to be lowered on the base and rolled into position. The stiff arms prevent the saw from tipping over on its top when the saw is in the stowed and upright/vertical position. The top portion of the stand is comprised of twin extruded rails that run the length of the stand. This is both the “backbone” of the stand and where mounting brackets are clipped to. The two robust mounting brackets are bolted to the saw, and the brackets are attached to the twin rails using clips and release levers. These allow the saw and brackets to “hold on” whether the saw is in use, transported/wheeled, or stored vertically. The main difference between the miter and table saw versions is the spacing of the twin rails and the stance of the stand. For the table saw version, both the rail spacing and stance are wider. To set the saw up from the vertical position, the legs of the stand are extended and locked in place, and then the whole stand with the saw affixed is stood up in position. Simple. It’s all good until the weak spot shows up - the release levers. For some unknown reason, DeWalt® decided to mold the levers as a “shell.” The shape of the lever is correct, but it is inherently weak due to the piece not being solid. It’s hollow, so it is prone to breakage. Replacement parts are readily available, but if you use your saw pretty regularly, you’re going to go through a lot of these types of clips. There’s a better way. We found SOLID release levers at www.fixmystand.com. These levers are easy to install, will last as long as the rest of the stand does, are reasonably priced, and are available in a variety of colors. While you’re at it, buy the kit that provides both the active and passive release components, saw bracket bumpers, and stand feet. You can choose the color, making it easier to identify your equipment on a job site. These parts fit both DeWalt®’s portable miter and table saw stand lines. I like that when I purchased these parts, I was supporting a U.S. micro company. I think it’s good to support your country’s industrial base. I talked to the inventor of this product. Gabe worked for many years supervising installation crews for a very well-known American closet fixtures design and installation company. During Gabe’s time in the field, he saw release levers fail over and over. His crews had to have spares on hand to take care of the problem ongoing. He knew there had to be a better way, and www.fixmystand.com was born. The refurbishment of these stands is straightforward, and the results are great! Follow along with DirtFarmer Jay as he shows how to make this great upgrade to your saw stand! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

If your bandsaw has a blade tension adjustment knob on the top of the saw, it can be inconvenient or downright uncomfortable to use. We found a great crank handle that is made for 14” (36 cm) bandsaws, but could be easily adapted to our Grizzly® 16” (41 cm) - what a difference! #bandsaw #bandsawblade #bandsawaccessory Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop If the stock blade tension knob that came with your bandsaw isn’t easy to reach or is difficult to turn, chances are you’ll avoid using it. That means that you’ll likely leave your saw fully tensioned when you are done with the saw for the day. That’s not good for the blade, saw, or tires. Our first course of action was to see if there was a speed-adjust lever or another quick device to solve the issue with our 16” (41 cm) Grizzly® bandsaw. Nope. There are units for all the popular 14” saws - but nothing for our sized saw. We then took a look to see if there were better handles that gave better leverage when tensioning the saw’s blade, as well as speed, both when tensioning and de-tensioning. Again, nothing we could see. But, what if we could adapt something that was made for other saws? That’s when we took a look at the BigHorn® 14330 Bandsaw Tension Crank for 14” (36 cm) saws. We’re pleased to say that the handle fits our saw and required only minimal alterations to have it work beautifully: Remove a couple of the nuts that came with the handle Remove the handle by loosening the handle’s set screw Shorten the shaft about 2” (50mm) Grind a flat spot on one side of the handle end of the shaft to allow the handle’s set screw to securely grip the handle and resist spinning Reinstall the handle at the desired height above the top of the case After this, we simply removed the stock “star” knob and shaft after loosening the shaft’s combination position/compression set nut, washer, compression spring, and bottom washer. These were simply utilized in the same order when the BigHorn® handle was installed. The specifications of the handle are: Thread: 3/8-16 tpi Shaft Thickness: 3/8" / 9.5mm Shaft Length: 13” / 33cm You wouldn’t think that ⅜”-16 tpi thread would fit into a saw that was made in Taiwan - but it does. To see where you can buy the BigHorn 14330 Band Saw Tension Crank, visit: https://www.bighorncorp.com/big-horn-14330-band-saw-tension-crank Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

When you hang a ceiling fan, it needs to be right. Use the right support method to assure your fan will stay put, providing air movement and aesthetics too! #ceilingfan #ceilingfansupport #fansupportbox Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Ceiling fans are hardworking devices that look good too! To assure they can safely stay on duty, they must be installed securely using the right support approach. Because there is combined static weight and vibration when the fan is being operated, heavier-duty boxes and screws must be used than are typically used for installing outlet, switch, and junction boxes. Fans can weigh from under 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) up to 80 lbs (36 kg), depending on the model and accessories. Add the torsion that occurs when the fan is operated, and the fan better be more than adequately supported and attached to its mounting system! An electrician friend of mine told me that he has actually encountered fans that were mounted to a “cut-in” box mounted in gypsum board! Only slightly better (but still totally inadequate!) is a single-gang octagon box nailed or screwed to the side of a joist, and the fan attached to that. While these can work, the risk is too high for you, the fan, and everything else in the way when the fan lets loose and falls! The right way to install the fan is with boxes that are rated for ceiling fan use and installed with fasteners also rated for the job. This is true both for new and remodel installations. Even the screws you mount the fan to the box must be a heavier gauge. Most fasteners for light fixtures are #8, but you should use #10 fasteners for fans - and boxes rated for fans will have #10 mounting holes right in them. Here are some links that you can visit to get more information or purchase these boxes and hardware: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Electrical-Boxes-Conduit-Fittings-Boxes-Brackets/Fan-fixture-box/N-5yc1vZbohnZ1z0zp1g https://www.lowes.com/pl/Ceiling-fan--Electrical-boxes-Electrical-boxes-covers-Electrical/4294653959?refinement=4294641854 There are essentially two types of fan installation boxes: joist direct mount boxes, and boxes affixed to hardware that allows for fan placement between ceiling joists. Direct-mount boxes affix alongside a ceiling joist or are mounted on a ladder block between two joists. Be sure to use pan head screws, with flat undersides of the screw heads, to attach these types of boxes. Some types have heavy-duty mounting flanges on the sides, others you directly screw the box to the ladder block, and others have a half-box that goes alongside the joist, with the round portion of the box extending ½” (12 mm) down, the same as the thickness of commonly used sheetrock. Hardware-mounted fan boxes are available for new and remodel construction. Both utilize a crossbar with brackets that “bite” into the joists on both sides. The box can be tightened anywhere along the bar so that you place the fan in other places than alongside the joists. When installed correctly, the box will be suspended ½” (12 mm) below the bottom edge of the joists so that is flush with the ceiling sheetrock. The remodel type allows you to insert the bar and box through a 4” (10 cm) round hole, and twist the threaded bar to have the toothed ends embedded in the joists. The box is then wired as normal, and the fan is mounted using #10 screws. It really pays to do this correctly, and it’s not that expensive for the safety and peace of mind you’ll get. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Whether you want to create a bird-friendly setting in your yardscape or want a simple, fun, and inexpensive craft project, this one-board birdhouse is for you! It’s a great craft project for kids and camps too! #birdhouses #birdhouseplan #bestbirdhouse #campcrafts This birdhouse is constructed from a single 6’ cedar fence slat. The actual dimensions of the birdhouse are directly proportional to the width and thickness of the fence picket. We use a Forstner bit to drill the entrance hole. The bottom of the house is removable and vented at the corners to reduce condensation in cooler weather and to facilitate cleaning. You will find that small to medium-sized birds will be attracted to this house. It is welcoming of personalization through a wide range of finishes and paints. You can leave it “rustic” or spruce it up a bit. You can even put a metal roof on it. If you do, overlay metal on the wood roof substrate, or you risk overheating the little ones in the house when the roof is exposed to sunlight for an extended period of time. An old license plate or some roof flashing overlaid on the wood roof is a good choice and will extend the life of the piece while adding a bit of interest. Over time, we’ve built over 100 of these birdhouses for events, gifts, craft projects, and around our home. We wish we could take credit for the idea or the plan, but honesty and courtesy demand that credit be given where credit is due. We found this plan on Pinterest®. We can’t locate an author’s or publisher’s name, but you can download it yourself by following this link: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/573927546270983968/ You will see that in our version, we didn’t install a perch or a chimney, but that is up to you. Be aware that if you do install a perch or ledge outside the entrance hole, this can lead to the raiding of the nest by bigger or more aggressive birds. As for the size of the entrance hole to your birdhouse, it depends on what bird species you want to attract and give a home to. Here’s an article that lists several hole sizes and the bird species that will be accommodated: https://www.thespruce.com/bird-house-hole-sizes-386641 To build the basic version of this birdhouse, you’ll need one fence picket, 4 long and 20 short screws, exterior wood glue, and if you are going to hang your birdhouse, some stiff galvanized wire or a metal coat hanger. You’ll also need whatever paints or finish you are going to decorate your house. The image from Pinterest may be difficult to read the instructions for laying out the pieces, so here they are: LAYOUT DIRECTIONS Using a pencil, start at the bottom of the board and mark 5 squares - the width of the board equals height. Divide the middle square with an “X” - making the 45­°angles for the roof. Mark the roof pieces: the length of these should be the width of the board, plus 6 thicknesses of the picket. Mark the last piece as a square for the bottom. It will be cut to width after the main house is assembled. If you want to add a perch (not recommended if this is being used as a “real” birdhouse - as larger birds will use the perch to attack other birds or hatchlings in the nest), chimney, or other decorative pieces, lay these out and cut them out from waste pieces. Then cut out and assemble the pieces as shown in the video, making sure to cut 45° angles on the long edge of the roof pieces as well as affixing a wire hanger securely. If you need some more inspiration for ideas for birdhouse and birdhouse-themed yardscape decor, visit: https://www.pinterest.com/dirtfarmerjay/birdhouses/ Sure, you can go to the craft store and buy a birdhouse, but why? With DFJ’s help and this great plan, you can JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Merch: COMING SOON! Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

A portable 120v ceramic heater is really handy when you are working in a cold environment, like when you are doing car or equipment maintenance in a garage or shop. This little heater can be placed right next to where you are working and make the work a lot more comfortable! #heaterreview #spaceheater #heaterreview Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Our friends at Newair have provided us with a tool that we make a lot of use of when winter sets in. While we have a wood stove in our main shop, and our garage is insulated, there are times when having a small heater, with a fan assist, comes in REALLY handy! We unboxed and put to work Newair’s NGH160GA00 Portable Ceramic 120v Electric Garage Heater. It’s compact, with dimensions of about 8-½” ( x cm), x 8-½” ( x cm) x 10-¼” ( x cm), and weighing right at 6 lbs (2.72 kg). The small size and light weight make it really handy to transport and set up, without taking up much space or being heavy to carry. The company says that this 1500-watt unit can heat up to 160 square feet ( x square meters). Our experience is that this sounds about right, but to be honest, we aren’t generally trying to heat up a full space, just us, what we are working on, and a small space right around us! We like that you can swivel the unit to aim it where you like, and the carrying handle is on the top, with the controls situated just ahead of the handle. Everything seems to be where it should be. We also like that the unit heats up right away. This is especially important when you just want to get to the job and don’t want to want for your heater to come up to temperature! Here’s something we think you’ll like as well. Even though the ceramic heating plate and the fan go to work right away producing plentiful heat, the outside of the heater stays comfortable to the touch. Nice! The Product Link for this heater is: https://glnk.io/mzyzp/dirtfarmerjay At the time of filming, this unit was about $125. To get 10% off your purchase use this Discount Code: FARMERJAY_10 Product Model: NGH160GA00 Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Cutting and handling firewood is no easy task, so getting great tools to make the process more efficient is worth taking a look at! Introducing the pickaroon! We wouldn’t be without this tool! #firewood #firewoodprocessor #forestryequipment Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop We started taking firewood more seriously because we heat our shop with a wood stove. My arborist friend Jason has been bringing by sizable tree trimmings for me to cut up for firewood. I continue to look for great tools and ways to allow me to process the logs into short sections (called bucks) to be split. Right now, we do the splitting manually, with varying degrees of success, using a splitting axe or wedge and sledgehammer. I hope to get a hydraulic wood splitter someday. One basic tool we won’t be without for processing firewood is a pickaroon. Never heard of one? I hadn’t either until about a year ago. As you can imagine, there are specialty tools developed for just about any trade, including forestry, woodlot management, and firewood processing. Enter the pickaroon - and its cousin, the hookaroon. A pickaroon has a curved upward-sloping pick that can easily be driven into a piece of wood to be moved. This effectively gives you a handle to lift and place the wood where you want it - all without having to bend over significantly. The hookaroon is a heavier tool and is used for larger pieces. It too has a beak of sorts, but it curves downward only and can be driven deeper in easier due to its weight. If you are managing a full woodlot or forest plot, you should have a hookaroon. For now, the pickaroon suits us just fine. We got our pickaroon from Garrett Wade and is about the size of a medium camping axe. We may add the larger one in the future. But for now, this little tool is a hard worker! The price point is very fair. Here’s the link for it: https://garrettwade.com/product/small-log-pickaroon If you are interested in the larger one, here’s the link for that: https://garrettwade.com/product/large-log-pickaroon These tools are German-made, with American hardwood handles. I like the fit and finish, and the handle feels right in my hand. The flair at the end of the handle makes it easy to hold and get a good grip when moving a range of firewood pieces. We really like the tool and think you will too! JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

Many people, like us, use our shop space for more than woodworking. So, tools need to do double duty. This easily made shop tool allows you to do several woodworking tasks at a standard work table. #workbench #woodworking #woodworkingtools Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Michael Pekovich is a prolific woodworking writer and instructor. He is a part of the Fine Woodworking magazine publishing team and is regularly featured in that publication. You can check them out at www.finewoodworking.com. If you are interested in taking your craft to the next level while being exposed to world-class instructors and having a wide range of topics and skill levels, this is one of the “gotta-haves!”. The other publication is Woodsmith®. You can check them out at www.woodsmith.com. Mr. Pekovich created a clamping fixture like a mini woodworker’s bench. Once this simple device is clamped to a work table, wood stock can be clamped in a variety of ways and orientations, allowing the wood to be planed, sawn, and shaped. Originally designed to make demonstrations on the road more convenient, it’s now found an ongoing place in Pekovich’s shop. DirtFarmerJay recently built a pair of these great tools - one for typical thickness stock and the other for more robust pieces. DFJ will take you through the basic process, and show you just how handy these can be - at a very reasonable price and moderate time investment - in your shop. To download the original article with plans and techniques to use the workstation, visit: https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/373905/FW282-All-in-One-Workstation-for-Dovetails.pdf Or, simply visit www.finehomebuilding.com and purchase a back-issue of FWW 282 and enjoy all the other content as well in that issue. Here’s the link we promised you in the video for the episode on dados, rabbets, and grooves. Enjoy! https://youtu.be/OzjkE5vq9Ro Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Many people, like us, use our shop space for more than woodworking. So, tools need to do double duty. This easily made shop tool allows you to do several woodworking tasks at a standard work table. #workbench #woodworking #woodworkingtools Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Michael Pekovich is a prolific woodworking writer and instructor. He is a part of the Fine Woodworking magazine publishing team and is regularly featured in that publication. You can check them out at www.finewoodworking.com. If you are interested in taking your craft to the next level while being exposed to world-class instructors and having a wide range of topics and skill levels, this is one of the “gotta-haves!”. The other publication is Woodsmith®. You can check them out at www.woodsmith.com. Mr. Pekovich created a clamping fixture like a mini woodworker’s bench. Once this simple device is clamped to a work table, wood stock can be clamped in a variety of ways and orientations, allowing the wood to be planed, sawn, and shaped. Originally designed to make demonstrations on the road more convenient, it’s now found an ongoing place in Pekovich’s shop. DirtFarmerJay recently built a pair of these great tools - one for typical thickness stock and the other for more robust pieces. DFJ will take you through the basic process, and show you just how handy these can be - at a very reasonable price and moderate time investment - in your shop. To download the original article with plans and techniques to use the workstation, visit: https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/373905/FW282-All-in-One-Workstation-for-Dovetails.pdf Or, simply visit www.finehomebuilding.com and purchase a back-issue of FWW 282 and enjoy all the other content as well in that issue. Here’s the link we promised you in the video for the episode on dados, rabbets, and grooves. Enjoy! https://youtu.be/OzjkE5vq9Ro Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop ESPANOL: Mucha gente, como nosotros, usa el espacio de nuestra tienda para algo más que trabajar la madera. Por lo tanto, las herramientas deben cumplir una doble función. Esta herramienta de taller de fácil fabricación le permite realizar varias tareas de carpintería en una mesa de trabajo estándar. #banco de trabajo #carpintería #herramientas para trabajar la madera Compre su camiseta, gorra o taza de café de DFJ en https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Michael Pekovich es un prolífico escritor e instructor de carpintería. Él es parte del equipo editorial de la revista Fine Woodworking y aparece regularmente en esa publicación. Puede consultarlos en www.finewoodworking.com. Si está interesado en llevar su oficio al siguiente nivel mientras está expuesto a instructores de clase mundial y tiene una amplia gama de temas y niveles de habilidad, ¡este es uno de los "imprescindibles!". La otra publicación es Woodsmith®. Puede consultarlos en www.woodsmith.com. El Sr. Pekovich creó un accesorio de sujeción como un banco de carpintero en miniatura. Una vez que este dispositivo simple se sujeta a una mesa de trabajo, el material de madera se puede sujetar en una variedad de formas y orientaciones, lo que permite cepillar, aserrar y moldear la madera. Originalmente diseñado para hacer que las demostraciones en la carretera sean más convenientes, ahora se encuentra en un lugar continuo en la tienda de Pekovich. DirtFarmerJay construyó recientemente un par de estas excelentes herramientas, una para material de espesor típico y la otra para piezas más robustas. DFJ lo guiará a través del proceso básico y le mostrará cuán útiles pueden ser, a un precio muy razonable y una inversión de tiempo moderada, en su tienda. Para descargar el artículo original con planes y técnicas para usar la estación de trabajo, visite: https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/373905/FW282-All-in-One-Workstation-for-Dovetails.pdf O simplemente visite www.finehomebuilding.com y compre una edición anterior de FWW 282 y disfrute también del resto del contenido de esa edición. Aquí está el enlace que les prometimos en el video para el episodio sobre dados, conejos y surcos. ¡Disfrutar! https://youtu.be/OzjkE5vq9Ro English This video has been dubbed using an artificial voice via https://aloud.area120.google.com to increase accessibility. You can change the audio track language in the Settings menu. Spanish Este video ha sido doblado al español con voz artificial con https://aloud.area120.google.com para aumentar la accesibilidad. Puede cambiar el idioma de la pista de audio en el menú Configuración. Portuguese Este vídeo foi dublado para o português usando uma voz artificial via https://aloud.area120.google.com para melhorar sua acessibilidade. Você pode alterar o idioma do áudio no menu Configurações.

Metal threaded inserts for wood allow you to assemble components to each other such as wood to wood and metal. But all inserts are not created equal. Have we found the best inserts yet? We think so, but you be the judge! #threadedinserts #woodthreads #woodfasteners Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Threaded inserts for wood have grown in popularity over recent years. Like many things that were once reserved for professional use, threaded inserts are now being used in the maker shop and by homeowners to make RTA (ready-to-assemble) or KD (knock-down) furniture, as well as adjustable jigs and fixtures. These inserts have also become really popular for use with “live edge” slab furniture, where a finished thick slab of natural edge wood is attached to metal legs or supports, or even other wood components. The inserts are a simple and brilliant invention. They are barrel-shaped, with cutting threads on the outside, and machine screw threading on the inside. Depending on the size of the insert you are using, a specific diameter drill bit is used to drill a hole. Then the insert is screwed into the hole, and the driver device is extracted, leaving the insert in the wood. Then, a matching machine screw can be screwed into the insert, as the screw is passed through whatever is being affixed together. While this is a general description of how these devices work, we think that one company (Rampa-Tec) offers a superior insert. We’ve used and reviewed these types of inserts before - namely the E-Z Lok® brass product. You can see our review and installation guide here: https://youtu.be/Gh7bbAO_PSA Since that review, we’ve encountered inserts and machine bolt sets from Rampa Tec®. The product is German-engineered & manufactured, stocked & shipped across North America from a Toronto area warehouse. The company has been around for a LONG time - it was founded in 1907, and is very well known in Europe for its quality inserts used both in wood and metal products manufacturing. While Rampa Tec makes a wide variety of products, in this episode we are taking a look at the patented SKD330 style. This particular line has become very popular with companies and individuals making live-edge furniture. It’s a zinc-plated steel insert, available in both metric and imperial sizes. So, what makes the SKD330 superior to other inserts? For starters, it has 3 external threads (instead of the usual 1) that eliminate troublesome installation tilting & twisting. This means the inserts are perfectly straight every time. Next, there is an internal hex shoulder to drive the insert using standard hex drives - either by hand or chucked in a cordless drill. Driving in the insert is sure with no slippage or damage. Because there are three external threads all working together, the insert works exceptionally well in a variety of wood-based materials - softwood, hardwood, particle board, plywood, or MDF. With this superior holding power, no adhesive is needed to keep the insert in place. However, should the need arise, the insert can be removed readily using the correct hex driver. Lastly, these inserts have a sealing collar that not only provides a clean stopping point, but the insert will countersink itself beautifully! For M6 inserts, pre-drill with a 10-10.5 mm or closest imperial (13/32”) drill bit. For M8 inserts- pre-drill with a 12-12.5mm or closest imperial (1/2”). Make the depth of the hole about 2 mm or 3/32” deeper than the length of the insert. Always do a test in the same material to assure that the density of that material doesn’t affect installation. Rampa Tec® offers pan, mushroom, and flathead bolts in a variety of finishes as well. If you are using imperial sizes, they offer only ¼-20 bolts at this time. You can visit Rampa Tec®’s North American website by visiting: https://rampa.com/ca/en/ If you want a great technical info sheet showing specifications of the different inserts, along with drill diameters and such, visit: https://www.rampa.com/service/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/RAMPA_Produktdatenblatt_Laubholz-Hardwood_ENG_2021.pdf Lastly, Rampa has a great animation video showing the SKD330 in action. It’s worth a watch! See it at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrufduT8VLg While these inserts are only available in bulk sizes, they are worth having a supply in the shop. While more expensive than single-thread brass inserts, they are superior and a very good value. For 60 days after the premiere of this episode, Rampa will provide you with a 7% discount when you use the coupon code dirtfarmerjay23! The offer expires on March 7th, 2023. Let us know what you think! JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

You can watch this video in Spanish (and Portuguese too!) by clicking on the Settings "gear" and choosing the Audio Track you'd like! We’ve tried several products to remove grease stains from concrete. Most haven’t worked well, but Goof Off® Concrete Cleaner has been a pleasant surprise! Let us show you the results. #concretecleaning #oilstainremover #concretecleaner Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop We love entertaining on our front porch - but we don’t like the oil stains that sometimes happen from food grease and oils. We recently had a wedding on our grounds, and the food for the reception was served on our large front porch. It worked really well, but there were several oil and grease stains left from some great Puerto Rican food and wedding cake buttercream frosting! We tried citrus cleaner, but the stains were unimpressed. We then tried applying Dawn® Ultra Dishwashing Liquid. We put a puddle of liquid on several spots and let them set for a couple of days. The stain was drawn out a bit and the spot simply got a little bit bigger and created a lot of suds when we washed them off. Again, the stains were undaunted. We then tried Zep® “Cherry Bomb” Industrial Hand Cleaner. This is our“go-to” hand cleaner when we’ve got grease, grime, or oil-based paint or stains on our hands. It really works well, so we thought we’d give it a try on extracting an oily stain from concrete. The cleaner stayed moist for over a couple of days we had it on the concrete, and it did start to cut the stain. But, because the adjacent concrete surface is porous, the stain simply spread out more. Not good. We thought about using oven cleaner, but checked out other videos on YouTube and found that it didn’t work well. To be fair, none of these products claim to be concrete cleaners or oil stain removers, so if we had gotten great results, that would have been a pleasant surprise, not a product promise. It was time to get a dedicated product for this and I found it at my local big-box home improvement store (the orange one). We picked up a 32-ounce bottle of Goof Off® Concrete Cleaner and Oil Stain Remover for about $14. The product makes some impressive claims on the label. It states, “Works the 1st Time!” Goof Off® says this is a concentrated formula that can be diluted for general concrete cleaning or applied full strength right on stains. They indicate the product is easy to use and removes oil and grease. We found that the product does indeed break down grease and oil stains. What really makes it work is after the stain is broken down and bound into the compound, the product then dries to a powder and is swept up. This means that as the stain is being drawn out, it is captured in the compound rather than being spread around with other approaches that stay wet. We found that the stains weren’t completely removed, but they were significantly lightened and a lot less noticeable. The biggest improvement was the first application, with subsequent applications giving some improvements. The product isn’t perfect, but it’s darn good! We now keep a supply on hand for those spills that happen on the concrete. Coverage is stated as about 3 sq. feet (about 1 square meter), but we didn’t need solid coverage. We were working on individual stains, so it went a long way. But if you have a large oil stain, like from under a parked vehicle with an engine oil leak, now you know. If you’ve found a great solution for removing oil and grease stains from unsealed concrete, let us and your fellow viewer family members know, will you? Thanks for watching! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Our compact cordless tool organizer is fast to build, looks great, and organizes your cordless tools in a way they are handy and ready to go to work at a moment’s notice. #charger #drillrack #toolrack Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Organization is a constant effort in the maker space. If space is not well utilized, and tools have a dedicated place to be stored, disorder can set in rather quickly. We still have a lot of things to organize. Still, this little cordless tool storage unit with wall mounted charger array has given a handy and attractive home to our cordless drills, circular saw, batteries, and accessories. We’ve had the unit for some time, and it’s seen pretty regularly in DirtFarmerJay episodes. It’s been asked about, so it is time to put it in the limelight. This episode is NOT a step-by-step procedure, along with measurements and such. The build is straightforward, using ½” MDF (medium-density-fiberboard), dadoes, grooves, and rabbets. If those terms are unclear to you, watch this brief episode where we explain what they are, how they are made, and how they are used: https://youtu.be/OzjkE5vq9Ro While we COULD take you through building a unit identical to ours, that probably wouldn’t help you very much as there is a wide variety of tool models and manufacturers, as well as how many tools, batteries, accessories, and chargers a particular craftsperson has on hand. Instead, you can use our plans and methods as a starting point to build a unit that is customized to you. You can download the dimensioned plans, at these links: Imperial: https://bit.ly/dfj-cordlesstoolrack-imperial Metric: COMING SOON! The plans were drawn up by my friend Tom of Tekton Woodworks. Tom is a skilled long-term craftsman and woodworker that specializes in liturgical furniture for sacred settings. His work is, well, astounding! He uses SketchUp® routinely and graciously drew up our tool organizer instead of having us muddle through the process. He then converted them to PowerPoint so as to make them more accessible for all. Thanks, Tom! Beautiful job! I’ve included a picture of Tom and his bride, Nancy, in the video episode. While you are at it, visit tektonwoodworks.com to see a sampling of the work that Tom has completed and how widely distributed it is. Back to the tool organizer. This unit is designed to hold 4 cordless drills, with the bits pointing forward. This allows me to see what is in the chuck and select the one that has the right tool for what I am doing. I like the tool hangs as well, with its center of gravity back a bit. The upper right stows a cordless circular saw. There are aluminum wear strips to keep the organizer in great shape for years to come. The saw will only fit in the bay if the base is closed. The saw can be stored with or without a battery. There is a small drawer section that holds bits, as well as shelves to hold charged batteries. You’ll need to measure various aH (amp hour) batteries to find the size you need the space between shelves to be. The unit can be sized up or down, depending on how many tools you have. We chose to have the chargers directly placed on the wall to the side. You don’t have to reach up on top of the cabinet this way, and you can readily see the charging status on the drills as well. We used the mounting holes on the charging bases to hang the chargers but prevented them from lifting up when the batteries are removed. We did this by mounting a cleat on the wall just above each charger. To make it really nice to look at, we took the time to organize the cords with wall-mounted cord bases and cable ties before plugging the bases into a cord strip. We took the time to paint the unit so it’s protected and attractive. Just because it works hard doesn’t mean it has to be ugly, right? After building this and putting it to work, we’ll never go back to having a shop without this type of tool organizer on duty. Let us know your thoughts, and if you have a design or features that you’d like to share with your fellow viewer family members, do so in the comments below! We hope to have an article and share section on our website soon, so you can upload pictures of your build and system as well. Thanks for watching! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

​@DirtFarmerJay #drillbitset #drillbits Montana Brand Tools® has done it again with a great drill set that will be put to work on many projects in your shop and around your home. You get 14 bits, all titanium coated, with 135° points for sure starts, no "skating" and increased durability for wood and metal. Montana Brand Tools® makes these bits here in the United States in Ronan, Montana. These are quality bits, impact grade, for 1/4" (6.35 mm) quick change chucks. The set has 13 different bit sizes, and one spare 1/16" (1.59 mm) bit (as it is the most fragile). The carrying case is black plastic with a labeled liner that shows the bit sizes in both metric and imperial. To get more information, or to purchase your set (approximately $30 at the time of filming), visit: https://www.montanabrandtools.com/products/14pc-titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set Use our Viewer Family promo code: DFJ (and enjoy a 10% discount!). At this price, you can keep a set in your field tool box as well as in your shop! JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

Las granadas son deliciosas pero pueden ser difíciles de cortar de forma rápida y adecuada. ¡Aprende el secreto de cómo cortar rápidamente una granada y sacar todos los arilos casi al instante! English This video has been dubbed using an artificial voice via https://aloud.area120.google.com to increase accessibility. You can change the audio track language in the Settings menu. Spanish Este video ha sido doblado al español con voz artificial con https://aloud.area120.google.com para aumentar la accesibilidad. Puede cambiar el idioma de la pista de audio en el menú Configuración. Portuguese Este vídeo foi dublado para o português usando uma voz artificial via https://aloud.area120.google.com para melhorar sua acessibilidade. Você pode alterar o idioma do áudio no menu Configurações. Compra tu camiseta, gorra o taza de café de DFJ en https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Nos encantan las granadas, y probablemente tú también. Lo que a la mayoría de la gente NO le gusta es pelar o procesar una granada. Dado que se trata de una fruta antigua, las personas de esas culturas antiguas y sus descendientes modernos tienen métodos para procesar rápidamente frutas individuales y lotes de granadas. Estos son métodos antiguos, nada nuevo, pero no tan conocidos en las culturas occidentales o en América del Norte. En este episodio, DirtFarmerJay te mostrará dos de estos métodos antiguos: uno para disfrutar del jugo directamente de la fruta y el otro para cortar rápidamente y sacar los arilos de la granada. ¡Puedes estar disfrutando de un tazón de granada en 3 a 5 minutos! Usa ropa oscura cuando corte granadas, ya que es probable que se expulse algo de jugo de granada y es de color rojo muy oscuro. El color intenso indica algunas de las propiedades saludables de la fruta, incluidos los antioxidantes. Y si bien el jugo es delicioso y colorido, también puede manchar la ropa, así que use ropa de tonos oscuros o un delantal cuando procese granadas. Muchas personas confunden arilos y semillas cuando se trata de granadas. Los arilos están llenos de jugo y una pequeña semilla comestible. Son transparentes y se pueden masticar e ingerir tal cual, sin quitar la pequeña semilla. Sin embargo, si quieres, puedes escupir las semillas pequeñas. ¡Depende de ti, de cualquier manera está bien! La granada a menudo se escribe mal como granada, granada o granada. Hace que sea más fácil deletrear granada correctamente cuando sabes que el nombre es originalmente del francés medio "pomme garnete", que literalmente significa "manzana sin semillas". En algunas áreas y culturas, la granada también se conoce como "manzana china". Es interesante notar que el nombre botánico de la granada, Punica Granatum, se traduce como "manzana con muchas semillas". Claro que puedes ir a comprar jugo de granada o semillas en envases, pero pagarás MUCHO más de lo que pagarías si compras granadas y las procesas tú mismo. Y ahora, con lo que sabes, puedes HACERLO TU MISMO. ¡Síguenos en las redes sociales para saber cuándo estamos construyendo proyectos o lanzando nuevos episodios! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

We’re big fans of Montana Brand Tools - and now there is 48 piece set that puts all of the most useful woodworker’s tools they offer in one set. Check out the MB-63129 SXT Complete Woodworkers Set! #tools #woodworkingtools #shoptools Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop We’ve started using Montana Brand® tools in our shop. They are well made, right here in the U.S.A (in Montana), and have great features. You can check out our reviews of individual tools we used here: https://youtu.be/7s04OSj60uo (self-centering drill bits) https://youtu.be/sNr_wtO9O7s (a great set of brad-point wood drill bits) Our friends have sent us their MB-63129 SXT Complete Woodworkers Set for our authentic review. We appreciate their generosity and it’s our pleasure to provide our viewer family members our honest feedback on these tools. With the items in this set, you’ll be able to do several shop and woodworking tasks that utilize wood or plastic as the material being worked: Drilling holes precisely using brad points that resist “wandering” or “skating” Make 5/16", 3/8", and 7/16" wood plugs Make pre-drilled screw holes, complete with countersink, and then install the screws Drive a variety of fasteners using the bit holder and supplied bits Drill centered holes for hardware, like hinges, hasps, and handles, then drive the screws Convert a standard drill chuck into a quick-change setup for speedy bit changes Have a backup supply of replacement bits for the self-centering drill bits and countersinks This 48-piece set is exactly that. There are 48 pieces in it, but that doesn’t mean you get 48 different tools. Some of the pieces are replacement bits, holders, and set screws. Even so, that doesn’t mean that they were stingy with the range of tools provided in the set. Here’s what is included: (6) Brad Point Drill Bits: 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2" 4-IN-1 Drill & Drive Body Countersink Insert: #6 x 3/32" (3) Replacement Countersinks: #8 x 7/64", #10 x 1/8", #12 x 1/8" (3) Replacement Countersink Drill Bits: 3/32", 7/64", 1/8" (3) Self-Centering Plug Cutters: 5/16", 3/8", 7/16" Self-Centering Drill & Driver Body (3) Self-Centering Inserts: #6 x 3/32", #8 x 7/64", #10 x 1/8" (3) Replacement Self-Centering Drill Bits: 3/32", 7/64", 1/8" (12) Set Screws (10) 1" Driver Bits: P1 x 2, P2 x 4, SQ1, SQ2, ST20, ST25 Compact Screw Guide Quick Change Connector These tools are based on imperial measures, including the fact that this system utilizes that ¼” hex drive quick change approach. The tools are impact-grade and have worked very well for us. If you’d like to get more info or purchase this and other Montana Brand® tools, visit Montana Brand Tools at www.montanabrandtools.com. Receive a 10% discount when you use coupon code DFJ or use this link: https://www.montanabrandtools.com/?ref=dirtfarmerjay Check them out and let us know what you think! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

#firesafety #christmastree #fireretardant There's nothing like having a real Christmas tree in the home for the holidays! But, having a cut tree in the home that is not correctly treated is one of the worst fire dangers you can create. If your "real" Christmas tree catches fire (via an electrical short or open flame), it will be disastrous as these types of trees burn extremely hot. In the description below, you’ll find a Christmas tree treatment courtesy of our local fire department. Follow the recipe and it will make your tree greener longer AND keep it moist so as to resist ignition. It will also make it more aromatic. Two other safety tips regarding cut trees: 1.) NEVER use actual candles or lanterns of ANY kind on or near your tree. 2.) Don't leave the tree illuminated overnight or when you are away. Why take the risk? Here’s a solution you can make that will keep your tree moist longer, thereby reducing fire danger. To use the solution, cut off about 1” (2.5 cm) of the bottom of the trunk and place the tree end in the solution until you bring the tree into the house. Then, just before putting the tree into your home, make another 1” (2.5 cm) off-cut on the bottom of the trunk and install the tree into your tree stand. Fill the treestand reservoir with the solution immediately so that the pores on the tree trunk end don't seal. Why does this solution work? First, the corn syrup provides sugar allowing the tree to take up lots of water. The Borax® contains boron which assists in getting water all the way through the tree’s system. The Epsom salt and iron assist in keeping needles green and fresh. The bleach’s role is to stop mold from forming when sugar and water are combined. Christmas Tree “Fire-Retardant” Solution Ingredients 2 Gallons (7.5 liters) of Hot Water 2 Cups (½ liter) Corn Syrup (Karo® is a common brand) 2 oz. (4 U.S. tablespoons or 60 ml) liquid bleach 2 “2-Finger” pinches Epson Salts ½ Cup (118 ml) borax (20 Mule Team is a popular brand) 1 tsp. (5 ml) Chelated iron (available from garden centers) Directions Mix all ingredients together in a large container. A utility bucket works well. Stir until all ingredients are dissolved. Use as directed.

We’ve had the Dyson® V8 Absolute for over 4 Years! How has it held up? Have we had to replace parts or have the machine serviced? You’re going to like our answer! #dysonvacuums #dysonv8absolute #vacuumcleaners Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop When we first got the Dyson® V8 Absolute, we were impressed with its quality and effectiveness. It had all the features a good “stick” vacuum should have - good suction, cordless but with reasonable run time, useful accessories, maneuverability, and lightweight to make it easy to transport throughout the home and up and down stairs! We now have 4 years of heavy use history and are happy to report that we have been very happy with our purchase. We have become quite adept at cleaning out the powerheads from time to time to assure they continue to do their job well. If the time comes to replace the rollers or other parts in the powerheads, it will be easy to do. We’ve also learned that you need to keep the filters clean. They remove A LOT OF DUST, so they have to be rinsed out and dried about once a month to assure the vacuum will work as it should. In fact, if you let too much dust collect in the filters, the vacuum will “pulse” letting you know that you have a clog somewhere or the filters need to be cleaned. Fortunately, cleaning the filters is quite easy. Both need to be cleaned (the cyclone cone filter and the exhaust unit). We overlooked the cyclone filter because it looked clean to us, but the unit kept pulsing. When we put the cyclone filter in a bucket of soapy water, the water turned dark brown right away. So, don’t overlook this hardworking component when you service the unit. We are also pleased to report that our concerns about the battery were unfounded. The battery is still going strong, charges quickly, and appears to still be taking a full charge. We thought we’d need a spare battery, but that isn’t the case. Bottom Line? We remain enthusiastic about the Dyson® V8 Absolute and highly recommend it for general cleaning tasks throughout your home! While we don’t have any direct experience with any of the other models that have come out since we bought our V8, we suspect they will be as dependable and durable as the model we have. JUST DO IT YOURSELF. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

EarthBreeze Detergent Eco Sheets work really well in our laundry - but are the benefits worth what we paid? We’ll let you decide! #detergent #detergents #laundry Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop We’ve become known for our features about front loading washing machines. Ours is an LG, and we are very happy with it. We’ve featured how these types of machines work and how to keep them ventilated properly and to eliminate “stankiness” that comes with moisture buildup and resulting biological build-ups. One of the variables in ongoing machine performance and laundry cleanness is the products used with the machine. We’ve landed on a couple of products. We generally stay away from liquid detergents, but one that we do use fairly consistently is Swash®. You can see more about our experience and results with that product here: https://youtu.be/-_tStKybVs4 DirtfarmerMaggie likes using the Swash, while DirtFarmerJay tends to use powdered detergent straight from the grocery store. Both have performed quite well, and with high-efficiency (HE) machines, it takes very little detergent to get the results we want Recently, we came across another product, Earth Breeze®, which is sold in dry sheet form. They tout compelling benefits such as less shipping weight, convenience, and only simple ingredients to wash your laundry. Their website states that the product contains very few ingredients and that as a non-liquified detergent, their product is better to ship, and is better for the planet. You can visit their website at www.earthbreeze.com and read what they say and you can determine what you think! Your order is sent via mail in a flat envelope. The package takes up very little space, so that is convenient. The sheets hold together well out of the package, which takes care of 60 normal loads of wash. You can get either unscented or fresh scent. The sheets dissolve readily and do a very nice job cleaning the laundry with no residues left in the tub or detergent dispenser. Economics are fair. Our 60-load package cost, including shipping and taxes, $21.40, or 36¢ per load. Swash has better economics at about 22¢ to 25¢ per load. Of the shelf powdered detergents from your local grocer fair even better, ranging from 10¢ to 15¢ a load. If where the product is manufactured is important to you, then you should know that as far as we can tell, Swash® is made in the United States, and Earth Breeze® is made in China. Many box detergents are domestically made in the countries they are distributed. So, what’s our verdict about EarthBreeze®? While we like what it does and what form it comes in, the differences and economics of what we presently use isn’t enough for us to make the switch. It’s a nice product, and it works well, but the others do too while costing less. So we’ll stick with what we have. You may disagree and make the switch, and if you do, we think you’ll be pleased with the performance of EarthBreeze® Detergent Eco Sheets. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Barn Forks, sometimes known as Manure Forks, are extremely handy around the yardscape. It can be used as a leaf rake and then used to scoop up the leaves and litter and put them into a cart or compost pile. There are many to choose from, but we found one that we think you’ll really like! #lawntools #bestrake #farmtools Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop We use a lot of tools around our hobby farm. We have several stone-chip paths and lots of flower beds and trees. That means that we need to rake up trimmings and leaves ongoing. While we do use leaf rakes, we’ve found a good manure fork, also known as a barn or stall fork, can be used both to rake and to scoop. Having to not switch tools is really handy! Most of these types of rakes are made of durable plastic, but plastic does have its limitations and can only carry so much weight before cracking. There are metal models available, but they tend to be more expensive. We think we’ve found a very good plastic model that bridges the gap (both price-wise and stoutness-wise) between cheaper plastic models and more expensive metal versions. We’ve used the Little Giant DuraFork for several seasons before the unit cracked where the plastic head is attached to the wood handle. At under 20 dollars, we got our money’s worth. Even so, the fork had its limitations. It wasn’t especially strong, so you could do only moderate loads. Also, there are places in the fork that tapered together, regularly catching stringy materials and long stems that had to be manually removed as you went. The STR22 Super Tuff Rake, offered by Tuff Stuff Products, promises to be a great addition around here. It is very strong, with more material and shaping in the head. It sports a nice capacity (22” - 56 cm wide) and is affixed to an aluminum handle with a D-handle that is about 46” (107 cm) long. There are very few places that will tend to catch material, allowing matter to slide off the fork cleanly when emptying the fork. The head is attached to the handle securely as well, utilizing two (not one!) substantial bolts and nuts. This tool looks like it is ready to go to work! Because it is of higher quality, it is more expensive. While you get an economy fork (such as the Little Giant unit we’ve had) for under $20, the Super Tuff Rake will cost you about $33 to $35. We are going into the winter season around here, so we are giving your our initial impressions of the Super Tuff Rake. We’ll come back a year from now and let you know how it has held up after a season of hard work! Super Tuff Rake ONE-YEAR REVIEW HERE: Coming after one year!) If you’d like to check out the STR22 Super Tuff Rake, visit http://tufftubs.com/htdocs/FORKS.htm We purchased our Super Tuff Rake, like it, and think you will too. We’re glad to pass on information that we feel will be helpful to our viewer family. If you get one, let us know what you think! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay