DirtFarmerJay

We reviewed Earth Breeze detergent sheets some time ago - and liked them. Since then, negative reviews have become common - not the product - but the subscription plan! #detergent #badratings #sheetdetergent Buy your DFJ T-shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop There are a lot of options when it comes to detergents, including powders, liquids, and sheets. EarthBreeze® offers sheets, which is especially appealing to those who don’t want to deal with empty plastic jugs or cartons. Sheets come in envelopes, so there is very little to dispose of. Depending on where you buy them, the cost per load is in the range of the other products. The packages we are familiar with come with 30 sheets, and can do 60 loads. We had a positive experience with the product and said so. Since then, the episode we published has been viewed by over 22,000 people, mostly positive about the product. However, there have been concerns expressed about the EarthBreeze® subscription plan. After checking their rating on trustpilot.com (2.5 out of 5, “poor.”), we see that many people have had problems with subscriptions activated when that was not their intent, or problems getting subscriptions ended. Charges and shipments tend to continue, and it is difficult to get in contact with someone at the company to resolve matters. Some people have had to stop payments on their cards to get out of continuing. There is a safer way to buy EarthBreeze® products. Go to Amazon. If you want an “auto-ship” plan, do that through Amazon, not EarthBreeze®. If you don’t want to continue the auto-ship, it’s easy to stop it. If you’d like to see the TrustPilot ratings and comments for yourself or give your own rating if you’ve purchased EarthBreeze® products, visit: https://www.trustpilot.com/review/earthbreeze.com For those of you who really like detergent sheets, there is good news! Like any product that gains popularity, more companies start to offer their own version of it. Detergent sheets are being offered by other brands, including Purex®, Arm and Hammer®, and Beyond®. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

The switch on your clothes dryer is going out and you can tell either because the dryer won’t start after the door is closed hard, or the dryer won’t start at all. This is an easy repair. We’ll show you! #dryers #dryerrepair #applianceservice We have a Whirlpool WED 5600SQ0 electric dryer. It’s an older model, but it has served us well. We’re too “thrifty” to let it go before it completely dies, even if we’d love to have the LG match to our front-load washing machine. Servicing a dryer isn’t that difficult as it is a pretty simple machine. There is a rotating drum with a drive belt and motor, heater element, fan, chassis, controls, vent, access door and switch. In these kinds of machines, when the door switch is defective, the dryer won’t start as the dryer “thinks” the front door is still open. Safety first. Or, if the the switch is failing, it may allow the dryer to run some times, but not others. In our case, if the door was shut hard, then the switch wouldn’t work and the dryer wouldn’t start. When replaced, the dryer started up reliably, hard close on the door or not. The repair is REALLY simple and well within the reach of the homeowner. You’ll only need a medium-sized (#2) Phillips screwdriver, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a small wash rag, and the replacement switch. For the Whirlpool WED5600SQ0, it is part number WP3406107. In November 2023, it was $28. By the way, our favorite places to get appliance and tool repair parts are: www.ereplacementparts.com and https://www.partselect.com/. Both offer good parts look-up search tools, good inventory, and lots of parts and machine diagrams. The steps are: Unplug the machine. Remove the lint screen and set it aside. Place the wash rag into the lint screen cavity to prevent parts from falling into it. Remove the two screws holding the dryer top to the lint screen holder frame. Set the screws aside in a safe place. Grasp the front edges of the dryer top and wiggle them forward to release the clips and to move the dryer unit forward. Once the front top edge releases from its retention clips, lift the front edge and hinge the entire top (with the integrated control panel) up, and gently rest it against the wall behind the unit. Open the front door and locate the switch mounting screws in the upper lefthand opening, use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the mounting screws, taking care not to drop them. Place the screws aside in a safe place. From the top, lift out the connected defective switch and using the small screwdriver, disengage the wiring clips. Remove the old part, taking care not to drop it into the interior of the dryer chassis. Install the new part by pressing the wiring plugs together. They are shaped so that they will go together in only one way. Reinstall the switch from the door opening. Lower the unit top back in place, and press back on the clips to ensure the front edge of the top is securely held down to the unit front and sides. Align the lint filter tray with the screw holes, put the rag back in the cavity opening to protect against loss of the screws, reinstall and tighten the screws. Reinstall the lint filter. Plug the unit back in. Enjoy your now-repaired dryer. For other episodes about why we love our front-load washing machine and how to keep it pristine, check these out: Why A Front-Loading Washing Machine Should be Your Next Choice: https://youtu.be/KjqljYemfjQ Get Rid of Front Loader Washer Stink: https://youtu.be/qkJ9y58lZGk Just Do It Yourself!

It’s time to dispose of leftover paint you have - what is the right way to safely throw that leftover paint away? We’ll show you the best ways to do that - without harming the environment! #paint #painthardener #wastepaint #paintdisposal Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop It’s easy to get a stockpile of leftover paint. The day comes when you need ti get rid of it, but you want to do it correctly. Good for you, but what are some paths forward? Water-based paint, usually known as latex or acrylic, is relatively easy to dispose of. The paint needs to be dried before putting it in the trash. We’ll show you some ways to do that. Oil-based paint is another story. These paint and finishes are hazardous materials that must be disposed of at a designated waste collection site. Many cities host annual waste collection days when oil-based paints (and water-based paint too!) can be disposed of. Many landfills, especially those that serve many communities, will have a designated drop-off area for oil-based paint as well as other hazardous materials such as batteries, solvents, pesticides, and herbicides. Now, on to “latex”, “acrylic” or “water-based” paint. This type of paint has become the most popular for its ease of application, low emission of VOCs (volatile organic compounds), and ease of cleanup of tools, brushes, and rollers. But, just because the paint can be cleaned up with soap and water (at least when it is wet!), doesn’t mean that it is harmless to the environment. That paint is made up of pigment (for color and opaqueness), binder (also known as a coagulant), resin (emulsifies the pigment and keeps it in suspension), and water (as the solvent for all the ingredients). If the paint is liquid when placed into the waste stream, there’s a possibility of leaching into groundwater or causing a mass of trash that will be very resistant to degradation. So, the paint needs to be dried before disposal. Whatever method you use, leave the lids off the paint when you put them in the trash container. If there is a visual inspection by the trash pickup personnel, they can see that the contents have been treated and dried. There are several ways to dry paint, including: Pour out a thin layer onto sheets of newspaper until dry then discard. This is inexpensive and uses material that was going to be discarded anyway. However, if you have a lot of paint, it takes lots of room and time. Shred newspaper and mix it into leftover paint until the liquid is absorbed. Leave the lid off until dry and throw away. This is cheap, and pretty fast, but it is best for smaller amounts. If you have a paper shredder, you can use the shreds this way too. Kitty Litter or oil absorbent can be used to sop up the moisture in paint to be discarded. It’s readily available and pretty inexpensive. The trade-off is that it takes a lot of kitty litter or absorbent to absorb all the moisture, so if you have an almost full can of paint, you could end up with 2 to 3 cans of kitty litter/paint mixture. It’s heavy too! Sawdust or small woodchips can be used. If you have a good source, it’s cheap. Just be aware it takes a lot of it to properly wick up all the moisture, and with that comes bulk. This is best used for cans that are ⅓ or less full. Air Dry. You can pry off the lid and let it sit for a week or two. This only works with minute amounts as the paint will “skin” and form a dry crust, but will significantly impede the drying of the whole batch. You’ll need to stir up wet paint to the top to get all of it dried. Paint Hardener can be purchased from your favorite paint supplier. This is sold in packets that will harden up to ⅔ of a gallon at a time. These usually contain sodium polyacrylate (Geek note: Sodium Polyacrylate is a sodium salt of Polyacrylic Acid) and the salt crystals absorb moisture very quickly and turn the paint into a thick, rubbery mass. At the time of filming, the paint hardener was about $2.50 per packet. The material is listed as safe when properly handled. It acts quickly, and it is very convenient. Coconut (or “coco”) pith, sold as a paint cleanup and drier product by Eco Industrial Solutions, is packaged under the name Spill Bully®. At the time of filming, a ½ pound (.22kg) container of the product cost right at $13 U.S., with the package stating, “Cleans 2 Quarts.” Coco pith is also known as coco peat and is made from the husks of coconuts. In contrast, coco coir is made from the fibers of coconuts. Coco pith is much more absorbent than coco coir - hence it’s used for spill clean-ups and paint hardening. Whatever method you use, thanks for making the effort to properly dry and dispose of your waste paint! You rock! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Old bakery racks make fantastic solar dehydrators! With simple window screen panels, trays, and a door, you’ll be churning out all sorts of dried foods! #dehydrating #driedfruits #raisins #solardryer Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop We repurposed a bakery rack that our friends Jesus and Kim gave us. With 18 rack spaces, it was an easy jump from holding cooking sheets to dehydrator screens. Two of the spaces were utilized at the top and bottom for screen enclosures, leaving 16 tray spaces. We like the capacity! There are various manufacturers and models of these types of racks, so the one you obtain is likely to be different than ours. For that reason, we will give you a construction overview, not specific plans. Don’t worry, this is pretty simple stuff! You’ll be constructing screened panels for this project, and here is an episode we did that shows you how to do that. You’ll be using off-the-shelf components from your favorite hardware retailer. You’ll use aluminum screen frame material (we like to use 5/16” - which is about 8mm), spline, connector corners, and fiberglass screen material. You’ll need a spline roller, a utility knife, a hacksaw (or fine-toothed saw blade on your miter saw) and scissors are good too. Here’s the link to our screen construction episode: https://youtu.be/phSpAyoaRxA You’ll be constructing both exterior screens that will enclose your dehydrator (to keep flies, wasps, bees, and other “visitors” off what is being dried), as well as the interior frames that you’ll dry food products on. The overall dimensions of our unit (including the wheels) are about 68” tall, 23” wide, and 27” deep (173 cm tall, 58 cm wide, and 69 cm deep). We have a few enhancements in mind. While the magnet catches hold the door shut okay, a hook and eye arrangement may be better. I think we’ll add a door pull to the door frame too. The wheels that came from the factory are pretty worn and they don’t roll without a bit of resistance. I may build a platform with higher-grade urethane wheels to make it easier to roll. As far as enclosing the unit, you’ll need to make 5 screen frames that are sized to your unit - top, bottom, both sides, and the back. Next, you’ll need to construct a door frame. You could do this with wood, but if you want something that is durable and will last as long as the rest of the unit, use aluminum square tubing. Construction is simple - cut the pieces with 45° angles. I use my miter saw to do this (yes - you can cut aluminum - but not ferrous metal - on your power saw!). Make sure the pieces are secured as you slowly cut the material and make sure that both sides are the same length, as well as the paired top and bottom. Then secure the 4 pieces using self-tapping screws and corner angles. Install a straight reinforcement bar somewhere across the middle, and secure it with self-tapping screws and corner angles - two at each end of the bar for a total of four. We use 3”/76 mm angles because they have two holes on each side of the angle, making for a secure attachment that won’t rotate - everything stays in line during assembly and when completed. We then attached the door frame to the front of the rolling rack using 4 2-½”/64 mm zinc-coated flat hinges. Each leaf has 3 holes, so each hinge is attached with 6 screws Once the front door frame is attached to the unit, then apply the front screen to it, once again using self-tapping screws. Be careful not to overdrive them, as the aluminum screen frame stock dimples quite easily. We’re also contemplating adding a simple solar collector that will sit under the unit and out to the back to create a flow of warm air up through the racks. If we do that, we’ll show you how we did it and will post the link here. One other caveat. When you are rolling the unit from place to place (perhaps to sunny spots), grasp it with two hands about 2/3rd of the way up from the ground. This will overcome the tendency for the unit to tip if the tires go into a crack or encounter a small rock. When it comes time to clean the frames, it's easy to do by removing the frames and using a flexible plastic bristle brush to wash them down with soapy water and then rinse. If you’ve dried something with a strong scent (like onions or garlic), you can spritz lemon juice or vinegar on the frames and let them set for a bit. These acids will neutralize the odors and then you wash and rinse the frames as usual. Some people suggest drying potatoes after onions to absorb the scent and take advantage of the flavor. Although we’ve not done that, it sounds clever! If you’d like a great recipe for simple and delicious apricot fruit leather, this is the recipe we use from Natasha’s Kitchen: https://natashaskitchen.com/how-to-make-apricot-fruit-leather/ JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Stud finders are great for locating studs in a wall, but what about wires, plumbing, ethernet, and even live animals? Now, you can “see” inside the wall BEFORE you drill, cut, or drive a nail! #walabot #studfinder #radar Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Remodeling, mounting items to our walls, and cutting into walls are all fairly common occurrences around here and I found there are situations where finding objects in the wall, other than wood or steel studs, is highly desirable. The Walabot® fills that gap by “seeing” objects in the wall such as electrical wires, plumbing, conduit, and communication cables. It does this using a form of radar. The proprietary Walabot® device is a combination transmitter and receiver to find and assign identities to objects in the wall. That device is paired to your cell phone using the readily available Walabot® app. The Walabot® works best with standard ½” gypsum board (aka “drywall). You can use the Walabot® in two modes, images and expert. The images mode will produce pictures that represent the typical things found in a wall; wood and metal studs, wires, and pipes. For studs, lines appear indicating the center so you can mark the wall. The sensor is dynamic, so if you move the sensor, or the object being sensed in the wall is moved (such as a speaker cable), it will show on the display on your paired phone. The images are “best guesstimates” of what the sensor is seeing, based on density and proximity to the back side of the gypsum board. It’s possible for the sensor to get what it is seeing as wrong, so double-check as you can. The expert mode looks like an infrared image, but it is not. There is no heat or temperature change being sensed - only density. Even so, it can be used to find all of the above-mentioned items, and there will even be centering lines that will appear. This mode is handy for finding non-typical items in the wall, such as a rodent nest! The unit is well-made and is available with an “authorized” carrying case. It is chargeable with the included USB-C cable. It’s not cheap gear, and neither is the price. At the time of filming of this episode, the unit was $189.95, and the kit that included the case was $239.95. If you are doing a significant amount of remodeling, this may be a worthwhile investment for you. The same goes for remodelers and handy/repair people who need to be very careful in existing living spaces so as not to take a small project and turn it into a big one by drilling or nailing into something that causes big problems. Avoiding one such mishap would be cheaper than the price of the tool. We don’t get commissions for Walabot® product sales. The product was supplied to us with the understanding that we would give our honest/authentic review, which we have. If this is a solution for you, we are glad to have brought this device to your attention. You can check them out at https://walabot.com/#products. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Each vehicle has a unique 17 digit code - but what does it mean? Is there a pattern, or it is just random? We’ll solve the mystery for you! #vinnumber #decoded #serialnumber Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop You know that big long code that is stamped on your vehicle? It’s called a VIN - a vehicle identification number. Calling it a VIN Number is redundant, but it’s commonly said anyhow. At first glance, that 17 digit code can look quite random, but it’s anything but. There is a set protocol and meaning for each digit or letter place. That’s been the case in the U.S. since 1981 when the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) of the United States standardized the 17-character format. Here’s something interesting - you’ll never find the letters O (o), I (i), and Q (q) in a legitimate VIN. This is to avoid confusion with numerals 0, 1, and 9. And, a VIN will only have capital letters and standard numbers. OK, what does each letter or number mean? Depending on the position in the sequence, information such as manufacturer, year, make, model, engine size, and so forth are provided. You just gotta know the code, or use a decoder. Here are a couple that are offered online: https://www.autozone.com/vin-decoder https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/ Here is how the numbers and letters are arranged. There are three sections: 1. World Manufacturer Identifier (WMI). 2. Description of the vehicle, and, 3. Vehicle identifier section. World Manufacturer Identifier (WMI) is the first 3 digits. The first digit is the country where the vehicle as made, the second tells you the manufacturer, the third, in concert with the first two digits can tell you your vehicle type or the manufacturing division. Now, let’s talk about the Vehicle Description Section - positions 4 through 9. The fourth through 8th digits tell details about the vehicle mode, such as engine, transmission, body and trim, etc. Digit nine is the check digit to help detect expose VIN’s. It is generated by a formula originated by the U.S. Department of Transportation. That leaves digit 10 through 17 - this is the Vehicle Identifier Section (VIS). The 10th position, since 1981, designates the vehicle year, while the 11th position, in North America is the plant location. The remaining numbers are usually simple unique sequential numbers as each vehicle was made. If you really want to become a VIN wizard, check out this comprehensive treatise on all things VIN at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number And now you know. You’ll be the conversation hit at the next backyard BBQ. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Known by many names, goat head thorns are a real nuisance. They can be greatly controlled with some simple practices and persistence. We’ll show you how! #goathead #weedcontrol #puncturevine Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop When we were kids, we just called them “stickers.” If you got into a patch of them while barefooted, it was a very unpleasant experience. They were also very hard on bike tires and we had to repair many a flat after an encounter with what was also known as “goat heads.” Their botanical name is Tribulus terrestris. Even that name sounds bad! “Tribulus” refers to an ancient weapon called a caltrop. These multi-spurred weapons could inflict a lot of damage and if they were spread on the ground, one spike would always be facing up. Just like these weeds. Whether you call them Goat Heads, Puncture Vine, Caltrop, Bullhead, or Sandbur - they all mean you need to take measures to control them. While they aren’t spread by the wind, it can still be trouble if neighboring areas have Puncture Vine infestations and the burrs are transported to your property by animals, footwear, equipment, bike, or vehicle tires. These weeds are well adapted to grow in neglected, disturbed, or bare soils. They have a very low, mat-like profile, so they are not easy to see until they are actively growing or blooming. Because they can easily “hitch rides”, they can show up in unexpected places. That’s not all. The seed is viable for about 7 years, and a single plant can produce up to 5,000 seeds! If that wasn’t enough, those seeds germinate throughout the summer months. So, ongoing vigilance is needed to control them. There is some good news in all this. Before the weeds go to seed, they are relatively easy to control. Small areas can be hand-managed by pulling the small weeds before they form the thorned pods. Larger areas can be sprayed with your favorite herbicide. Simple hoeing or hard raking can do the trick as well. If an area had mature plants the season before, pre-emergent weed controls can be used. If you were late in your control efforts, and you have sizable plants with plenty of the thorned pods on them, the best thing to do is to hand-pull them. That’s right. Using gloved hands (and wearing good work shoes, not “flip-flops”), grasp the center of the plant, where all the branches emanate from. There aren’t any thorns there. You can “peel” back the arm of the weed to reach the center. If there is a bad infestation, you’ll have overlapping weeds to contend with. Then gently but firmly lift straight up, pulling out the central tap root. The entire weed will lift away. Because the plants cover a lot of ground, you can clear a lot of ground quickly. This will be the worst of it, as subsequent encounters will take less effort. Dispose of each plant in the trash or burn barrel. DO NOT compost them. You are asking for trouble if you do! If you find the weeds quite late in the season, when they have yellowed and the pods are falling off, pick up what you can to help eliminate the further spread of the pods. You can use carpet or rubber kneeling pads and like material to get the thorns to stick to so you can pick them up. Make a note of the area, and in the following season, you’ll really need to control any resulting infestation. Not all controls for this pest are reactive. You can be proactive as well. Since they thrive in bare, disturbed, or neglected soil, and there is little competition from other desirable plants, you’ll need to create competition. Plantings of groundcovers or placement of deep mulches are both great ways to put the odds in your favor of controlling goat heads. They don’t do well in shade, so deprive them of sunlight! If you’d like to know more and get even more specifics, here is a great fact sheet on Puncturevine: https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=3080&context=extension_curall#:~:text=In%20Utah%2C%20puncturevine%20is%20a,et%20al.%2C%202017). Don’t give up, you can push these invaders back! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

We got a Snap-on® rechargeable flashlight about 3 years back and we’ve used it A LOT. It’s a great flashlight. Nothing’s perfect - so what needs to be improved? #flashlights #snapontools #rechargeablelight We use this light quite a bit, so that tells you that it works well in a variety of conditions. It’s a great handheld flashlight, but it really shines (see what I did there?) as a stationary unit that can be attached to any ferrous (iron-based) surface and the light directed where you need it. It is magnetic both at the bottom and side of the unit. You can turn on the end light (like a typically hand-held flashlight), or turn that off and use one or two sides of the wand light that can be extended out the side of the light. Using a combination of magnet sources and which light you are using, it’s pretty easy to get an area illuminated. At a price point approaching $200, it better be good - and it is. But it would only be worthwhile if it is used ongoing, and serves well in a variety of work conditions - including where there is a lot of dust, mud, grease, or grime. With the rubber moldings covering the unit, it makes it quite durable so it can be wiped down or cleaned. Its shape resists rolling, like off a car hood. If it does roll, the magnetic side is likely to grab. It is charged using a standard USB-C cable. When charging, the status light will flash green. When fully charged, it is solid green. When the charge in the unit is getting low, or you are drawing a lot of current (when both sides of the wand light are on), the status color will be yellow. It holds a charge well, and in over 2 years, we’ve seen only a slight diminishment in the charge capacity. What do we think could be improved? One thing we think would be an improvement is if the status light would flash when the charge is getting really low and charging is needed right away. The new version description says that it has a power level indicator, so perhaps that has been resolved. Also, as it is now if you swing out the wand light, the front light can’t be used. I’d like the choice to use the front light when it is pivoted and I want more of a spotlight directed at what I want to look at. It’s not a deal-breaker as far as I’m concerned, but it would be a nice choice to have. If after all the benefits we’ve stated, this is still too much, there are alternatives. This is a professional unit, and it’s build shows it. We’ve had several viewers who are mechanics write and tell us how much they use this light and highly recommend it. Since it is an industrial model, it has an industrial price. There are “knock-offs” out there and they will work well for most homeowner settings. Pure economics dictate they won’t last as long, but that may be okay. Another approach is to use a headlamp device. They are getting better and better and put light where you are looking. There are several models and companies out there, and depending on the type of work you do, that may be the right choice for you. Light output is 600 lumens using a single side of the light wand, and 800 lumens when using both. The single-end spotlight puts out 300 lumens. For comparison, a 100-watt light bulb emits about 1600 lumens, a 60-watt bulb puts out about 800 lumens, and a 40-watt bulb produces about 450 lumens. To get one, you can visit https://shop.snapon.com/product/Articulating/Dual-Sided-Flex-Light-(Green)/ECARD062G. THE BOTTOM LINE? You’ll need to make the determination if your investment is worth it for this tool, but one thing is for sure. Great lighting, conveniently “on tap” when and where you need it, sure makes it easier to JUST DO IT YOURSELF. Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

You can find the center of a square or rectangle with ONE simple measurement. Here’s the trick - great for finding knob position on a drawer front or door panel. #mathtrick Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Here’s a really simple trick to determining the center (both length and width-wise) of a rectangle or square. One of your fellow viewer family members, @jaysaw8151, shared this simple trick and it’s a good one! Since there are mathematical proportions throughout a square or rectangle, you can simply use one diagonal measurement, from opposing corners, and mark the halfway point. You have now found the halfway point from top to bottom and side to side of the rectangle or square. To do this, use a ruler, yardstick (or meterstick), drywall square, or ruled straightedge and place it across the rectangle or square, with one edge aligned with two opposing corners. You have two ways you can now get the half point on the ruled edge. You can put one corner at the zero point of the rule and note the total distance to the other corner. Then divide that distance by 2 to get the point. Or, you can have the straight edge extend equal amounts over each corner. Then use the rule’s halfway point (like 24” on a 48” rule) to mark the center point. Easy! You just need to be sure that you are working with a true square or rectangle, and the geometry will take care of the rest. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

When a frostproof hydrant develops a drip or won’t shut off completely, the repair is probably easier than you think! In the rare case that the cast head cracks, that’s an easy replacement too! We’ll show you! #yardhydrant #frostprooffaucet #woodford Most of the time for these types of yard hydrants, the repair isn’t a repair at all; it’s a simple adjustment! These durable devices are serviced up top at the handle, without digging anything up, except for VERY rare cases. In this episode, we’ll show you both how to do adjustments to the faucet head, as well as replace the entire head. If the casting on the main faucet head is cracked (like ours), the top part of the faucet needs to be replaced. Even so, due to the ingenious design of these types of faucets, you WON’T have to dig up the faucet - all the work is done at the top of the unit. Spiffy, huh? There are several manufacturers of frostproof yard hydrants, including Merrill Manufacturing® (www.merrillmfg.com), Woodford Manufacturing® (www.woodfordmfg.com), as well as Home Depot’s brand (Everbilt®), and Lowes ProPlumber®. We were able to obtain replacement parts easily from Woodford Manufacturing. Simply visit their website at www.woodfordmfg.com to get started. While they have different appearances and features (our Woodford® sports a handy adjuster for setting the “full-open” flow rate, as well as stopping accidental openings of the valve), they all operate using similar methods. The valve body is located below the frost line in the soil. Various depths are available to suit your situation. The valve body is actuated by a pull rod that is attached to the handle. The valve is turned on and off using the handle that has an off-center cam that applies needed pressure to shut off the valve when the handle is in the off position. In addition, the valve body is designed to drain water into the soil when the valve is shut off. This evacuates water from both the riser pipe (the pipe that extends from the valve body up to the handle/spigot assembly) and the valve body itself. This all but eliminates the possibility of freezing the valve, rendering it inoperable, as well as splitting the riser in freezing temperatures. If your valve starts dripping or won’t shut off properly, the odds are highly in your favor that all that is needed is an adjustment of the pull rod to allow it to close more. WARNING! Be sure to turn off the water to your valve before making this adjustment or you will “enjoy” a flood of water! Here are the basic steps to adjusting the pull rod Here are the basic steps to replacing the cast head of the Woodford® Hydrant: Have these tools and supplies on hand: two large pipe wrenches, an adjustable wrench, pipe compound or plumbing tape, and a flat-blade screwdriver. Turn off the water supply and open the hydrant using the lever. Loosen the cam and clevis assembly with the adjustable wrench. Loosen the packing nut using the same wrench. Use the two large pipe wrenches, in an opposing grip, one on the riser pipe and the other on the main cast faucet head. Rotate the head counter-clockwise to remove it and the operating pipe assembly. Separate the head and rod components. Inspect the components while the unit is disassembled, and service as needed. Dig out the packing material using the flat-blade screwdriver. Make sure that no pieces of the packing material remain. Put the bottom packing nut washer in the packing nut recess, then the packing material, then install and HAND-TIGHTEN the packing nut. Place the operating assembly back into the riser pipe. Clean the riser pipe threads and apply fresh pipe thread compound or plumbing tape Slip the cast hydrant head down over the rod and through the packing material and nut, taking care to not damage the packing material. Thread the faucet head casting onto the riser pipe and tighten properly by using the pipe wrenches in opposing grips on the faucet head and riser pipe and turning the head clockwise. Turn the main water valve back on, and check for leaks. Tighten the packing nut only enough to stop leaking. Enjoy your well-adjusted and durable yard hydrant! If you’d like to see a repair overview video from Woodford Manufacturing, visit the link just below. You’ll learn 3 different procedures: 1.) Adjusting the pull rod to get the correct “snap” that will assure the valve is closed properly in the valve body below the frost line; 2.) How to remove and replace the plunger that operates within the valve body, and, 3.) how to remove, replace, and adjust the main cast head in case of damage or cracking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmBpNz5wh6g Sure, you can call a plumber to do this repair for you, but why? With what you’ve learned from Dirtfarmer Jay, you can JUST DO IT YOURSELF. Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

No matter how many pins and conductors your trailer has for lights, brakes, and accessories, there’s a correct way to route and connect all the wires. Learn where to get the right resources to do the job right the first time! #trailerlights #wiringharness #trailerwiring Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop At first glance, all the different colored conductors used to wire a trailer can be quite confusing. But, once you know what those colors mean, you are more than halfway there to getting your trailer wired correctly, without paying someone else to do it! This episode is NOT about how to install wires, soldering, and basic electric connections. We’ve made the assumption you know how to do that. This episode IS about directing you to some GREAT resources for wiring diagrams, wire color designations, and wiring parts. It bears repeating that doing a neat job, securing wires along the frame so they are not dangling, sealing connections to reduce corrosion, and assuring the system is well grounded to the trailer’s frame are ALL key to having trouble-free wiring for - pardon the pun - the long haul. The same goes for both the trailer’s connector (which has to be flexible), and the vehicle connector plug. These need to be sealed, and it’s MUCH better if the vehicle plug port is secured to the vehicle instead of hanging down. Let’s begin with understanding industry-standard color codes for trailer wiring. Green is for the right turn signal. Yellow is for the left turn signal. White is the ground. Brown is for the taillights. If that is all that your pull-behind trailer has, this is known as “four-way wiring.” It is very common and is widely seen on light-duty pull-behind utility and boat trailers. Add one more conductor, and you now have a 5-wire setup. That 5th conductor is blue. The four other conductors still do the functions mentioned earlier, but that blue conductor will now operate and control a trailer or camper’s “surge” (over-run) brakes. When the vehicle brakes are applied, the surge brakes come on as well to help assure the towed vehicle doesn’t “over-run” or push the towing vehicle. The blue conductor is also tapped into the brake and backup lights so the trailer brake lights come on when the vehicle brakes are engaged, as well as disengaging the trailer’s braking system when the trailer is being backed up. Six-way wiring adds a sixth wire (which is usually red) that can be used for various purposes. It can power a fused battery lead or a fuse block that other items are connected to, such as interior lights, fans, battery charger, or for electric brakes. Seven-way wiring (purple) provides yet another power source for backup lights or a hydraulic coupler. Each product you buy will have installation directions, but knowing what wires go to what devices or lights will make the whole system work correctly. That’s because the vehicle plug where you will connect the trailer is using the wiring convention just outlined. As promised, here are some charts and diagrams you will find to be very handy: https://www.waytekwire.com/AboutUs/The-Waytek-Blog/Terminals-and-Connectors/Trailer-Wiring-and-Connector-Basics# https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspxf If you really want to “know your stuff” about trailer wiring and gear, check out this: https://www.etrailer.com/faq-trailer-lighting-info-and-regulations.aspx? Lastly, you should know that the VAST MAJORITY of trailer lighting problems occur because of poor grounding or non-grounding of the wiring harness. Electricity will always try to find a way to ground, including other components and bulbs. If the colored wires are wired to the correct items, and you still have problems, it’s likely a poor ground. If it’s not that, it’s probably a short somewhere where the insulation on a section of wire has worn through and is touching metal. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

A mounted cord reel is a great shop or garage addition. The cord is always there, ready to go to work, and when you are done, it stows quickly. But be sure to get the right one for you! #cordreel #extensioncord #powercord Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Like any other product, you get what you pay for. I had a cord reel in my shop mounted above the end of our main shop table. A small portable heater was plugged into it when we were shooting some episodes for this YouTube channel. After about 30 minutes, we heard the sound of soft electrical arcing, and then there was the strong scent of electrical burning. Smoke starting to come out of the cord reel. We quickly shut off the heater, unplugged it, and took down the reel - which was toast (pun intended). The problem was my fault. The cord reel was an inexpensive unit that someone had given to me. I’m loath to admit it, but to me, a cord reel was a cord reel. If you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. WRONG. Various attributes of the reel are all affected by the price point. The cord gauge, housing, plug ends, mounting bracket, and cord type are all variables. In my case, the heater I plugged in drew 1500 watts/12 amps. The cord reel was rated under that at 1250 watts/10 amps. The draw was too much through a small circuit, with resistance creating enough heat until the connections literally melted in the reel. There are a few obvious lessons here. First, any circuit you plug a device into must be able to provide and carry the load required. That’s true for a wired circuit or a plug reel. So, make sure the reel you buy will exceed what you are going to draw from it. Second, cord reels are for short-term demand, not to plug into and walk away from, like a wall outlet. You can probably get away with it, but why take the risk? What is not so obvious is that even if the cord reel you use has multiple outlets at the cord end, the total amount of draw, from all devices, must still not exceed the capacity of the unit. Another thing to consider is the type of cord the unit uses. Most of the reels we’ve seen use either SJT or in a few cases, SJTW. The best unit overall we’ve seen is from Watts Wire®, and the cordage is type SJTOW. What does all this mean? The following is from the Watts Wire website: "SJ" stands for Service Junior (meaning 300V rated service cable) "T" stands for Thermoplastic Jacket (meaning PVC jacket) "E" stands for Thermoplastic Elastomer Jacket (meaning TPE jacket) "W" stands for Weather and Water Resistant (Outdoor rated cable) "O" stands for Oil Rated Put it all together: SJTW stands for a 300V-rated PVC Outdoor Extension Cord. SJEOW stands for a 300V rated TPE Oil Resistant Outdoor Extension Cord. So, the most common SJT cordage is service junior rates with a thermoplastic/PVC jacket. These are usually somewhat shiny, and the cordage is stiff, especially when cold. A Snap-On® cord unit with a hanger shop light affixed to the end uses SJTW (service junior thermoplastic/PVC, weather/water resistance outdoor cable). The Watts Wire® cord reel uses SJTOW (service junior thermoplastic/PVC, oil rated, weather and water resistant) 14/3 cable, rated for 13 amps/1625 watts/125 volts. This is a good overall cable size for 50’ (15.24 meters), which the Watts Wire® unit is. At the time of filming, the cord reel was about $113. The mounting bracket is stout, and the translucent triple tap end is illuminated to inform you that the plug end is energized. It also includes a built-in 13-amp overload switch that will trip if too much amperage is being pulled through it. This prevents the cord from getting too hot like what happened with my other less robust cord reel! The case is stout, and the ratchet appears to be well-made! For all these reasons, this cord reel is our favorite and has earned a spot in our shop. If you’d like to get one, visit this link and get 10% off your order: https://www.wattswire.com/pages/dfj If you need something with a higher load rating, you can consider the Volt King® reel offered by Rockler®. They have a 40’ (12 meter) reel with 12/3 wiring that is rated for 15 amps/1875 watts. When this was written, you could buy one for $140. It looks like a nice unit, and the ratings are good. However, the cordage is SJT (the most basic you can get), and it doesn’t have an illuminated end - a feature that I really like. If you want to take a look, here’s the link: https://www.rockler.com/volt-king-12-gauge-cord-reels? We are very happy with this unit and think you will too. Thanks for watching! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

We’ll show you one of 5 ways to wind up extension cords. The Cord Bucket method is an effective way to wind and stow cords - buckets are readily available and there are several option you can do to customize your cord bucket! #extensioncord #powercable #cablestorage Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop This is one in a series of episodes showing different methods of winding up and/or using extension cords. In this series, we will show the daisy chain, over-and-under, figure 8, cord reel, and cord bucket approaches. This episode features the “Cord Bucket” method. These are simple to make and easy to customize to your preferences. No matter what method you use to wind up your cord, always get the BEST extension cord you can afford. The cheaper the cord, the stiffer it will be, especially in cold weather. Extension cords come packaged in a coil (much like a garden hose) or looped into an oblong shape with a sleeve around the middle. For the jobsite, we recommend 14 gauge or higher. Remember, when it comes to wire gauge sizes, the smaller the number, the larger the conductors. For that new cord, unwind and stretch it out somewhere in the sun. It can be on the lawn, sidewalk, or driveway. Leave it out for about an hour to get the cord warm so it can “relax” and lose any memory it acquired during the time it was packaged. If it’s winter when you get your cord, place the cord somewhere warm until the cord is supple. Now you wind up the cord using the method you prefer. The basic layout of a cord bucket is a hole low on the side of the bucket that allows the male plug end to come from inside the bucket and extend long enough to plug into a wall outlet. After the hole is drilled (1-½”/38mm is typically large enough), the end is passed from the inside to the outside of the bucket to the desired length. Then, the remainder of the cord is coiled inside the bucket until the receptacle/female end is placed on the top of the coil The lid is then placed on the top to protect it from weather and such. There are several variations and enhancements to the basic bucket. Here are a few of them: Drill small holes in the bottom of the bucket in case water get in so it will drain out. Add cleats to the bottom to reinforce the bucket bottom a bit and raise it of the floor. Inset an outlet in the lid of the bucket Use an approved weather-tight box and cable mount on the end of the cable to have more outlets to plug into. Remember, the combined draw on all the outlets can not exceed the cord rating. Cut side-slots on the edge of the lid to make the lid easier to place and remove, but still be secure. There is an active debate about the safety of using coiled electrical conductors. Is it safe? The answer is a conditional “yes.” Remember, mounted cord reels are used in industrial, garage and shop settings routinely and many of these reels are government safety-agency approved. Coiled conductors in a reel are deemed safe when the total combined electrical draw on the device is lower than the rating. As a safety measure coiled cordage is always rated lower than the usual rating for the same conductor when it is uncoiled. This is because coiling conductors does introduce some resistance and resulting heat. This is addressed by rating the cordage lower with the idea being that less current will be utilized with that particular setup. Some tradespeople also have the practice of pulling all the cord out of the bucket because then there is no risk of resistance/heat due to coiling. Indeed. My practice has always been to avoid coming anywhere near the capacity of the cord when running power to the jobsite. This is asking for trouble, whether the extension cord is coiled or not. The same is true of the capacity of the circuit that you are plugging your extension cord into. If you exceed the rating, you will heat up circuits and (hopefully) trip breakers before damage is done to the electrical components. While you’re at it, check out these OTHER methods that trade professionals use as well: View the "Over and Under" Method Here: https://youtu.be/nyPE-hS-ceg View the "Daisy Chain" Method Here: https://youtu.be/cpK7ZN-vdCE View the "Cord Reel" Method Here: https://youtu.be/3SfStwhHPAE View the "Figure 8" Method Here: https://youtu.be/VUQlzt7aMo4 JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

We’ll show you one of 5 ways to wind up extension cords. The Figure 8 method is a great way to wind and stow cords - and you only need your arms to do it! #extensioncord #powercable #cablestorage Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop This is one in a series of episodes showing different methods of winding up and/or using extension cords. In this series, we will show the daisy chain, over-and-under, figure 8, cord reel, and cord bucket approaches. This episode features the Figure 8 method. We’ve heard it called other names as well; “arm-knitting” is one. No matter what method you use to wind up your cord, always get the BEST extension cord you can afford. The cheaper the cord, the stiffer it will be, especially in cold weather. Extension cords come packaged in a coil (much like a garden hose) or looped into an oblong shape with a sleeve around the middle. For the jobsite, we recommend 14 gauge or higher. Remember, when it comes to wire gauge sizes, the smaller the number, the larger the conductors. For that new cord, unwind and stretch it out somewhere in the sun. It can be on the lawn, sidewalk, or driveway. Leave it out for about an hour to get the cord warm so it can “relax” and lose any memory it acquired during the time it was packaged. If it’s winter when you get your cord, place the cord somewhere warm until the cord is supple. Now you wind up the cord using the method you prefer. To do the “figure 8” wind-up, begin by laying out the cord and get any tangles or twists out. Gather the two plug ends. Depending on what “handed” you are, grip the two cables right beside the ends with one hand and stretch your arm out away from your body to the side (not the front). Then use the other hand to reach down and pick up the pair of conductors and stretch that hand/arm out the other side of your body with the conductors draped over the top of the hand and dangling down. Now reach over with the first hand and wires and reach behind the wires hanging down and return the hand to its outstretched position. You have now formed the first loop. Now alternate. Reach behind the first arm/cable with the second hand and return to the outstretched position. You now how two opposing loops - one around each arm. Continue that alternating process until the cable is all stowed, and then tuck the ends through the loops to secure it. To unwind, untuck the ends and play out the cord. It’s very efficient, tangle-free, and consists of large loops to help the cord lay flat when it is played out and in use. The advantages of this approach include not needing any additional gear, a large amount of cordage can be wound up easily (as much as your arms can hold!), larger loops help the cable to lay flatter when it is in use, and it’s relatively easy for a helper to see how to unwind the cord. One caveat. If the ends are not untucked before attempting to unwind the cord, and they are simply pulled on, the cord will knot up. However, it’s pretty easy to take a look at the loops and understand that you need to get the end out of the way to allow all the cordage to play out. Lastly, it looks pretty cool on the jobsite and there are two ready-to-go places (either end of the "8") to hang the cord up using the combined conductors. Whatever method you use, taking the time to wind up and stow your gear at the end of the job pays off in having gear that will last a long time, and will allow you to set up faster on the job, as well out pack out sooner and be on your way. While you’re at it, check out these OTHER methods that trade professionals use as well: View the "Over and Under" Method Here: https://youtu.be/nyPE-hS-ceg View the "Daisy Chain" Method Here: https://youtu.be/cpK7ZN-vdCE View the "Cord Reel" Method Here: https://youtu.be/3SfStwhHPAE View the "Cord Bucket" Method Here: COMING SOON JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

We’ll show you one of 5 ways to wind up extension cords. Many people use cord reels or storage devices. How good are they and will they work well for you? #extensioncord #powercable #cablestorage Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop This is one in a series of episodes showing different methods of winding up and/or using extension cords. In this series, we will show the daisy chain, over-and-under, figure 8, cord reel, and cord bucket approaches. This episode features cord-winding storage devices, as well as reels with integrated cords and outlets, as well as simple reels that you supply with your cord. No matter what method you use to wind up your cord, always get the BEST extension cord you can afford. The cheaper the cord, the stiffer it will be, especially in cold weather. Extension cords come packaged in a coil (much like a garden hose) or looped into an oblong shape with a sleeve around the middle. First, unwind the cord and stretch it out somewhere in the sun. It can be on the lawn, sidewalk, or driveway. Leave it out for about an hour to get the cord warm so it can “relax” and lose any memory it acquired during the time it was packaged. If it’s winter when you get your cord, place the cord somewhere warm until the cord is supple. Now you wind up the cord using the method you prefer. Portable cord reels come in two basic versions - empty reels that you supply your cordage, or integrated reels with cordage supplied and typically a set of outlets. Although similar to mounted reels seen in shop settings, these are meant to be carried to and used at the job site. Remember this cardinal rule: you can not draw more power combined, from all the outlets, than the cord or outlet it is plugged into can supply. If there is an integrated breaker in your cord reel, too much power draw will “pop” the breaker. If there is no breaker, you risk heating the cord, melting terminals, or possibly starting a fire. So, be careful. Besides a breaker/reset, another worthwhile feature to look for is a self-retracting reel. This makes it easier to wind up the cord when the job is done. Lastly, if you are buying a unit that has its own cord, get the best quality and highest capacity (at least 14 gauge!) you can afford. Cheaping out here is not wise. If you want something even more economical, there are a variety of plastic cord wrap devices or wheel-like products. You get what you pay for. Plastic has a limited life, especially if it is in the sunshine regularly. However, these are quick and inexpensive, and easily replaced, so you need to decide what you need and the economics of your choice. There is an active discussion (argument?) about whether or not you can run power through an extension cord that is coiled. Yes, you can. You just need to be sure you are using only about 80% of the capacity of the cordage. This is seen with the ratings that are labeled on cord reels. Power is routinely run through coiled conductors, but because they are coiled and can cause increased resistance (and related heat), they rate the capacity of the cable lower than an uncoiled cord. Whatever method you use, taking the time to coil up and stow your gear at the end of the job pays off in having gear that will last a long time, and will allow you to set up faster on the job, as well out pack out sooner and be on your way. While you’re at it, check out these OTHER methods that trade professionals use too: View the "Over and Under" Method Here: https://youtu.be/nyPE-hS-ceg View the "Daisy Chain" Method Here: https://youtu.be/cpK7ZN-vdCE View the "Figure 8" Method Here: COMING SOON View the "Cord Bucket" Method Here: COMING SOON JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

We’ll show you one of 5 ways to wind up extension cords. This is a legacy method that has been used for many years in the trades! We know it as the “Daisy Chain.” #extensioncord #powercable #cablestorage This episode features the “daisy chain” method - a series of loops chained in each other - just like a crochet stitch with yarn. This method has been used in the trades, in a wide number of settings, for many years. There are many that swear by it as “THE” way to wind up and stow power cables. We’ll show you how it is done, and the advantages and disadvantages of the approach. I was first introduced to the “daisy chain” method many years ago on home construction sites. I saw both experienced framing and trim carpenters wind and transport their cables in this configuration. You could wind up cordage very quickly, and it would not get tangled up with other cords being stored or carried with it. Several years ago, we published a video called “The Best Way to Store an Extension Cord.” It has been viewed nearly 6 million times. Viewers have supplied a list of titles they know this method by: Daisy Chain Jacob's Ladder California Roll Cord Crochet Construction Roll Chain Braid Chain Roll Engineer Knot Arm Knitting Electrician Knot To do the “daisy chain” method, lay out the cable in one long line and then bring the two ends together and plug them in. Then go back along the length of the cord until you reach the poing where the cord is folded - this is your halfway point. Mark that point with a permanent marker or with wraps of electrician tape. This allows you to find the halfway point of the cord from then on and to begin your wind up quicker when you are finished for the day at the jobsite. Pick up the cord at one time on both sides of the center point, creating a loop. Fold the loop down against the two conductors. With the other hand, reach through the back side of the loop and pull another loop through the first one. Don’t make small, tight loops. We recommend the loops be about 8” to 12” (20 to 30cm) in size. Then repeat by moving the supporting hand one loop and reach through the back again and grab another length of cordage and pull it through the loop to create yet another loop. Proceed down the length of the cord until the ends of the cord are hanging out a bit and can be plugged together. For a very long cord, you could “halve the halve” and have four conductors being wound up this way too. Now that you know how to do it, here are some benefits as well as potential liabilities using this approach. The benefits are that you can wind up a lot of cord very quickly and it can be stowed in a job box or cabinet, or in a work truck, and it won’t get tangled up with other cords. If the cord is unwound from the correct end (where the ends are plugged together, NOT the halfway point), the cord will play out beautifully. And, others that aren’t familiar with this method tend to leave your cords alone on the jobsite! As long as you are not putting a draw on the cord that is anywhere near its capacity, it’s possible to pull out only the cordage you need. However, this isn’t a good habit to get in to. Downsides include the cable getting a memory of the loops. This is especially true of cheaper PVC jacket cords that tend to be stiff on their own accord. Add cold weather, and the effect is worse. The cord will tend to not lay across the floor flatly. This can create trip hazards. Also, if someone attempts to unwind the cord from the wrong end (that is, the middle point), it will end up in a series of knots and loops. This is very frustrating! If the loops are too small, this can put stress on the conductors in the cable, so larger loops are better. There is an active discussion (argument?) about whether or not you can run power through an extension cord that is looped or coiled. The short answer is yes. You just need to be sure you are using only about 80% of the capacity of the cordage. This is seen with the ratings that are used on cord reels. Power is routinely run through coiled conductors, but because they are coiled, they rate the capacity of the cable lower than an uncoiled cord. Whatever method you use, taking the time to coil up and stow your gear at the end of the job pays off in having gear that will last a long time. While you’re at it, check out these other methods that trade professionals use as well: View the "Over and Under" Method Here: https://youtu.be/nyPE-hS-ceg View the "Figure 8" Method Here: COMING SOON View the "Cord Bucket" Method Here: COMING SOON View the "Cord Spool" Method Here: COMING SOON JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

We’ll show you one of 5 ways to wind up extension cords. Used widely in the trades and AV/Video industry, learn how to wind up cordage using the over-and-under method! #extensioncord #powercable #cablestorage Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop This is one in a series of episodes showing different methods of winding up and/or using extension cords. In this series, we will show the chain, over-and-under, figure 8, cord reel, and cord bucket approaches. This episode features the “over-and-under” method. Is it the best way to get a tangle-free cable? Many think so - it’s that good! You make up your own mind! No mind what method you use to wind up your cord, always get the best extension cord you can afford. The cheaper the cord, the stiffer it will be, especially in cold weather. The cord will come packaged as a coil (much like a garden hose) or looped into an oblong shape with a sleeve around the middle. The first thing you need to do is unwind the cord and stretch it out somewhere in the sun. It can be on the lawn, sidewalk, or driveway. Leave it out for about an hour to get the cord warm so it can “relax” and lose any memory it acquired during the time it was packaged. If it’s winter when you get your cord, place the cord somewhere warm until the cord is supple. Now you wind up the cord using the method you prefer. To do the “over and under” method, begin with the end that has the pronged plug end. Hold the end of the cord in one hand and reach down along the cord and lift to create the loop size you prefer - but avoid small loops. Large, loose loops are best. Then, coil the first cord loop alongside the cord end in an “over” motion. You’ll feel the cord rotate along its length. If you kept winding the cord in repeated “over” loops, you will have a cord that is actually twisting along its length - essentially a cord “spiral”. Not good. To avoid this, this is where the magic comes in. You simply counter the right-hand twist by doing an “under” loop next. Again, reach down the length of the cord, grasp, and lift while rolling the cord slightly in the opposite direction and then tuck up the loop alongside the loop waiting for it. Continue this alternating pattern until you reach the end of the cord, and then you can plug the pronged end into the slotted end. An easy way to remember this method (as well as keep track of where you are), the phrase “overworked and underpaid” is useful! When it comes time to use the cord, unplug the two ends, and let the end play off the stack of loops naturally. Don’t pass the end of the cord through the center of the loops or you won’t like the result! This method works for power cords, AV cables, and music equipment cables (I use this method for the cable for my electric bass guitar). In fact, it is the “go-to” method that professionals use in entertainment, film, corporate entertainment, and concert industries. Cables play out beautifully, lay flat, and minimize twisting of the cable so it will last longer. Check out these other methods that trade professionals use as well: View the "Daisy Chain" Method Here: COMING SOON View the "Figure 8" Method Here: COMING SOON View the "Cord Bucket" Method Here: COMING SOON View the "Cord Spool" Method Here: COMING SOON JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

This movable handle ratchet strap product solves a common problem - when the handle or ratchet system ends up in the wrong place - like too close to an object, the side of the truck bed, or over the edge of the load. This great product allows you to place the ratchet where YOU need it! #cargo #ratchetstrap #adjustableratchetstrap Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Ratchet straps have taken on a life of their own. They have become so commonplace that it is difficult to think of a time when they weren’t used. Even though there are several variations, duty ratings, and sizes of ratchet straps, they all operate on the basic principle that tension is applied on straps in the middle of two attachment points. Using a ratchet device with a central threading hub allows high leverage to be applied resulting in tight straps to hold objects in place. Some of the improvements to ratchet straps include heavier frames, molded handles for increased comfort and leverage, and devices to hold hooks on attachment points until the strap is tensioned and the hook will stay in place on its own. Erickson Manufacturing has come out with a new product that allows you to address one other inconvenient thing that can happen when securing a load: having the ratchet positioned where it is inconvenient or will cause damage to the load (such as on the edge or corner). We’ve tested Erickson’s Sliding Ratchet strap and found it to be very useful. After a small learning curve, sliding the ratchet to the desired position is easy. At first, it can be a bit confusing because these straps are all one piece, rather than the usual two-piece setup of the ratchet head with a short hooked strap, and a longer flat strap with a hook on one end. Instead, all the strap is threaded uniquely through the ratchet frame. Once you understand the strap path and the adjustment device, you are in business. We were able to slide the ratchet head anywhere along the length of the strap we wanted, secure it in place, and then tighten the load. This can be really handy. The strap and hardware are very good quality, and the hook securement device is really nice as well. Lastly, there is a Velcro® securement strap for the excess webbing after you’ve secured your load. These straps are available from a wide range of retailers in the United States and Canada. To check them out, you can visit these links for various lengths and sizes: https://ericksonmfg.com/product/sliding-ratchet-straps-2/ https://ericksonmfg.com/product/sliding-ratchet-straps-3/ You can also check out their information video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGB2cC3SiCE We’ll put these to use around here! Our initial impressions are very good, and we expect we’ll have positive long-term experiences with them. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

If your truck’s automatic running boards are acting up, the fix is probably easier than you think! DirtFarmerJay will walk you through the simple steps to get your steps working like new! #runningboards #truckstep #truckrepair Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop The automatic running boards on our truck are really nice. They raise up out of the way after use and drop down when the door is opened. Because they “tuck” up out of the way when the truck is underway, the truck is just a bit more aerodynamic. And it looks cleaner when the running boards are stowed when the vehicle is parked. Having them raised also keeps the width footprint of the truck to a minimum and allows a bit more space between our two vehicles parked next to each other in the garage. Like most things in life, you don’t get all those upsides without a downside or two. While this type of running board is really handy, they have to be maintained from time to time. And, it’s no wonder. Because of where they need to be positioned, they are in the “direct line of fire” from the grit, mud, and moisture flung off the front tires. Because of this, the swivel brackets and attachment points need to be sprayed out from time to time and lubricated. If you don’t, the running boards will operate sporadically. While it’s possible that the motor and operating mechanisms on your truck have failed, it is unlikely. It's better to start with maintenance. Besides, having these units replaced is (in my opinion) overly expensive. I asked our local dealer how much it would be to replace both units and the quote was about $4,000! NO THANKS! In our case, the running boards would come down, and stay down until you started driving and exceeded 5 MPH, then they would retract. When stationary, the boards would come down, and after the doors were closed, would attempt to retract, stop and come back down. Frustrating. I learned I need to “think” like the running boards, and as the engineers designed them. When the vehicle is stationary, and the running boards encounter resistance when closing, they “think” that something is in the way, like your or one of your children’s leg or foot, or even perhaps something that has dropped between the running board and the side of the truck. So, it stops and goes back down as a safety measure. When the truck is underway, the running board retracts because it “thinks” that no one would be running alongside the truck and jamming their foot in it, and that any object would have dropped away. Actually, this is clever programming on the part of the component engineers! So, it’s important to reduce resistance in the hardware and swivel brackets by spraying them out when the running boards are down, and then lubricate them with a spray that is “clingy” and will stay on the job for a while! The Blaster® line of lubricants works well for us. However, should you take these measures, and the units still don’t work, then it may be time to replace the motors that lift and lower the running boards. While this “swap” is not the scope of this episode, here are some videos that you may find to be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeuSUCXfccA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMuFYK39XEw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mNcaQbnjkA Even if you end up doing a motor or component replacement, it is well within the reach of even a basic-skilled home mechanic to do this without spending thousands! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

How good is DeWalt®’s DW7350 Planer Stand? How easy is it to unbox and assemble? What are the dimensions of the stand? Tune in and find out! #dewalttools #planer #dw735Planer Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop I recently bought the DeWalt® 735 13” (33 cm) planer. I have wanted one for a long time and have been saving up over the last few years. It’s a beautiful machine and is one of the most popular planers ever made. And - for good reason! With a larger capacity, 4 support posts, 3 knife head, assisted fan chip ejection system, robust construction, and easy-to-access controls, the DeWalt® 735 has become the de facto “bridge” machine between smaller “breadbox” type planers and larger stationary commercial machines. With the accessories available for the DeWalt® 735, this machine is even better. Add the infeed and outfeed tables, stand, and even a digital thickness gauge and a helix cutter head, and WOW! In other episodes, we’ll show you the setup of the machine and we’ll put it through the paces and let you see how well it performs. We’ve also purchased a Byrd Tools Shelix cutter head, and in another video, we’ll show you the installation of the head and the difference in sound levels between the standard and helical heads. For today, we’ll show you the unboxing and assembly of the DeWalt® DW7350 Mobile Planer Stand as well as give you the dimensions of the stand, including the space under the top that could be used to install a shop-made drawer set. We’ll also show you the installation of the planer onto the stand. To complete the assembly of this unit, you’ll need a 13 mm open-end wrench, a 13 mm socket and ratchet, a medium crosshead screwdriver, and safety glasses. To assure you don’t scratch the pieces as you assemble them, you can place a packing blanket on your work surface. Additionally, you can use a silver marking pen to designate the top and bottom surfaces of the pieces, as we as having a mechanic’s magnetic bowl on hand to keep bolts, washers, and nuts together as you use them. There are NO spares supplied with the unit, so be careful not to lose any of the fasteners as you proceed with assembly. The DeWalt® DW7350 mobile stand has the top pre-drilled to allow installation of 3 different DeWalt® planers: DW733, DW734, and DW735. STAND DIMENSIONS The dimensions of the stand are 27-¼” (69 cm) deep, 21-¼” (54 cm) wide, and 29-¼” (74 cm) tall. The wheels add a bit of width to the base, with the dimension from the outer wheel to the opposite outer wheel being 25-¼” (64 cm). The top itself is 24” (61 cm) deep by 21”(53 cm) wide. How you install the pivot wheel assembly also affects the “footprint” of the unit. If you assemble it the way we did, the pedal doesn’t extend outside the bottom frame of the unit. This reduces the risk of a trip or a stubbed toe, but it does make it a bit more inconvenient to raise and lower the unit for rolling around or making the unit stationary. That’s because the pedal can’t be easily reached directly “head-on”, but rather from the side. As it turned out when the stand was put to use, and a home for the tool was set in the shop, we changed the pedal to be outside the bottom frame. It is much easier to use, and it didn't turn out to be in the aisle. Here’s another feature you may like about this mobile stand. There is a medium gauge shelf about 10” below the under edges of the top frame rails. This can be used as open storage as is or could be further utilized with a shop-made drawer or toolbox setup. The opening to place it all in is 24” (61 cm) deep, 10-½” (27 cm) high, and 14-¾” (37 cm) wide. DeWalt® 735 Planer Unboxing, Set Up, and Review Episode Here: https://youtu.be/zvdrO-S92NY Byrd Tools Shelix Cutterhead Installation and Review Episode Here: COMING SOON WoodSmith® Planer Sled Project Episode Here: COMING SOON 3 Ways to Stop Planer Snipe Episode Here: https://youtu.be/ILS6o1H8iEk Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

A wood planer is a hardworking tool in the woodshop, but if the wood isn’t handled correctly when it enters and exits the machine, you can get “snipe” or a deeper cut on the ends. Eliminate that for good! #woodplaner #planer #thicknessplaner Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop No matter what type of wood thickness planer you have, snipe can occur. It doesn’t matter if you have a hobbyist model, mid-range, or professional machine, you can still end up with “snipe”, where a significant amount of the end of the board can be planed thinner than the target thickness. If the board isn’t cut oversized in the early stages of milling, the board may end up not being able to be used for what you planned. Not good. What causes snipe, anyway? A planer works by pressing a flat side of the board against the “bed” of the planer, using a roller in front and behind the rotating knife head. So, as you feed a board into the machine, the board will lay on top of the bed, then advance under the first roller, encounter the planer knives, then the next roller. As the board exits the machine, the trailing end will come out from under the first roller but is still being thicknessed by the cutter knives. The board then passes beyond the knives but is still held down to the bed by the remaining roller. The board then exits. As long as the board is in contact with the front roller, the rotating knife head, and the back roller, no snipe will occur because the board is held fast against the bed on the bottom side of the board. But when the board is entering or exiting the planer, there is a risk of snipe. So, what to do? First, always hold the boards up slightly both when the stock enters and exits the machine. This stops the end of the board from pivoting up under a single roller and having the blade take off unintended stock. It doesn’t take much to do this and you’ll quickly develop a feel for it. Or, if you are milling medium-weight and moderately-thick stock, see if you can adjust the feed and exit tables for your machine. Our DeWalt® DW735 has adjustable tables that allow the furthest edges from the machine to be tilted up slightly. If the stock isn’t too thick, the feed rollers will bow the stock slightly, keeping it tight against the bed, and eliminating snipe. Lastly, if you have several pieces of stock that all need to be planed to the same thickness, feed them end to end in one continuous flow. That way, the infeed and outfeed rollers only have to adjust once in the run, and no end of any single piece will be tipped up into the path of the cutter. If all this fails, you could simply use oversize stock that has extra length that you can cut off to take care of the areas that have snipe on them. It works, but it wastes stock. It may be worth the trade-off to get the consistent thickness of the stock you need. While you’re at it, be sure to keep the bed of the planer waxed to reduce slide resistance and allow the feed rollers to do their job without slippage. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Dust removal and control are key in a woodworking shop, and a portable cyclone shop vacuum is one of the key tools to keep things tidy. Check out how the cyclone works and where you can get plans to build your own cyclone vacuum system! #shopvac #dustcontrol #cyclonevacuum Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop No matter if you have a full dust extraction system or not in your woodshop, you’ll also need a portable “shop vac” to do detail work, or to extract dust from a smaller tool that is not connected to the main dust vacuum system. However, simply vacuuming dust into the standard vacuum is a losing proposition because the dust will overwhelm the vac filters in short order. The trick is to use a device to get most of the sawdust and fine powder dust out of the incoming air BEFORE it is expelled through the vacuum’s filters. Fortunately, it’s pretty easy to do this by using small-scale cyclone. A cyclone unit works by separating the vast majority of dust, grit, and particulates from the incoming air stream in the vacuum system - and BEFORE the actual vacuum unit. This approach can be scaled up or down. The same basic shape of a cyclone is used in a variety of industrial settings where very large units are used, as well as compact units for medium and hobby shop settings, all the way down to the “micro” unit you’ll see demonstrated here. The basic principle is the same regardless of separator size. The incoming waste air stream is introduced to the cyclone “sideways” or horizontally, with a waste port at the bottom of the tapered cyclone, and the exit at the center top. When the dust-laden air enters the cyclone, it forms a tapered mini “tornado” along the inner surface of the unit. Using centrifugal force, almost all the dust and debris separate from the air and “twist” their way down into the collection bin, while the clean air rises up through the middle of the “tornado” and makes its way out of the unit and into the vacuum inlet. Because the vast majority of the dust has been removed, the vacuum filter system has to do much less and last much longer. Also, the exhaust flow is better maintained over time with fewer changes and cleanings. While there are several compact cyclone separator “knock-offs” out there, my favorite is the one that really fine-tuned and made small-scale cyclones readily available originally. Oneida Air invented the Dust Deputy®. It works well for a variety of dust types and can be readily installed on a variety of durable containers. These units are made in America, take hoses and vac fittings ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 inches (38 to 64mm), and are very reasonably priced - about $40 at the time of the filming of this episode. You can visit their website at: https://www.oneida-air.com/anti-static-dust-deputy-diy-cyclone-separator Several years ago, we built a portable combination shop vac, cyclone separator, and collection bucket. We used the plans that were available from our friends at Woodsmith® through their ShopNotes® publication. We’ve been pleased overall, but I recommend putting on bigger casters than they specify. The smaller ones don’t roll over cords and other obstructions on the floor as easily as larger wheels would. Here is the link to get the plans: https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/shop-vacuum/ I’ll warn you though. It can be mesmerizing to watch the “tornado” in the Dust Deputy®! Because it is made of translucent plastic, the cyclone action is quite visible and you can see how much dust is being captured before the air enters your vacuum. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon

We use our wood stove to heat our shop during the winter, and these are the best fire starters we’ve found yet! The economics are very good, and they light up easily and burn well. You’ll like them! #woodstove #firestarter #woodheat Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop When it’s cold and the shop and it’s time to get the woodstove fired up, it’s no fun trying to get a fire started with wadded paper, alcohol gels, or a lighter. The same is true for getting a campfire started or the fire pit lit up. And while we’re sure our outdoorsy friends could best us with their fire-starting skills, we’ve found a much better way for us. We use cedar fire starters from Midwesthearth.com. These cedar sawdust and wax pucks ignite easily and burn long enough to get kindling ablaze. You can buy them in boxes of 8, 16 or 36. We like the box of 36, so we have plenty on hand. The price at the time of filming was right at $40. At first glance, that may seem like a lot, until you realize that these are pre-scored to break into quarters. I actually cut up the batch into quarters on my band saw (being sure to clean the wax off the blade from time to time). These smaller chunks actually ignite easier and provide plenty of flames to get the rest of the fire going. And, there is no residue left over. They burn cleanly and completely, with no offending smoke. Nice! That means that each chunk costs about 28¢! That’s hard to beat for such an effective product! I simply keep the batch in large zip lock bags, making it easy to keep them in the shop, camper, or bug-out box in the back of the truck. We ordered them from: https://midwesthearth.com/collections/fire-starters/products/cedar-fire-starters JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon

Bandsaws are great tools and they can be made even better with these 6 simple enhancements that cost very little to nothing! #bandsaw #woodworkingtools #woodworking Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop I love my 16” (41 cm) bandsaw. It’s older but keeps on working well. The more I use it, the more it unlocks its secrets. As good as the tool is straight from the manufacturer, there are 6 things I’ve done to enhance its performance or to make it easier or more accurate to use. Better Drive Belt. I got rid of the standard v-belt that came with the machine and replaced it with a link belt. It’s stronger, quieter, and offers as much or more traction on the pulleys as the standard belt does. Get them from: https://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html?_br_psugg_q=link+belt https://www.woodcraft.com/products/4-foot-of-1-2-link-belt Stronger Wheel Tension Spring. When you adjust the tension of the blade, the wheel or crank isn’t directly attached to the top wheel hub shaft. Instead, it compresses a heavy-duty spring that then lifts the top wheel, increasing the distance between the top and bottom blade wheels to create tension on the blade. The spring has a bit of give to allow the blade to run smoother. The stock spring on many machines is “wimpy” and won’t allow you to get the amount of tension you need on the blade. This is an easy fix with the affordable stronger springs on the market. Here are a few: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/56055-cobra-coil-tensioning-spring?item=86N5001 https://carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-tension/cobra-coiltm Saw Tension Crank. My saw is a 16” model, and because of that, fast release and set tension lever handles are not available for it. The tension handle was on top of the saw above the top wheel. It was difficult to reach and was at an angle that actually hurt my wrist. Frankly, there was too much temptation to leave the blade tensioned between uses. That’s not good for the saw or the blade. I installed a Big Horn Tension Crank - what a difference! While not as speedy or convenient as a swing lever would be, this is a MASSIVE improvement over what came stock with the machine. The thread on the shaft of the crank fit into the wheel lift block perfectly and now I faithfully release the tension on the machine at day’s end and set it to go back to work the next time around. To learn more, visit: https://www.bighorncorp.com/big-horn-14330-band-saw-tension-crank To see the basic steps to modify and install the Big Horn Tension Crank, watch our episode: COMING SOON! If you have a 14” model and it doesn’t have a fast set and release handle for blade tension, you should get one. You’ll get to work faster with the correct blade tension, but with tension off when the saw is not in use. Here’s an example of one of these 14” Bandsaw Tension and Release Levers: https://carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-tension/quick-releaser Olson® Cool Block Blade Guides. My saw came equipped with round rod guides of hardened steel that pressed on both sides of the blade. It works, but not as well as Cool Block Guide. As the name says, they run cooler and are semi-slippery. They come in various sizes and are very reasonably priced: https://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/zona-hand-tools/lubricants/cool-blocks-band-saw-blade-guides/ Urethane Tires. Your saw’s blade doesn’t run directly on the metal wheels inside the covers. Instead, there is a “tire”, comprised of a rubbery material, that is stretched around the wheel and smoothed in place to get as consistent thickness around the wheels as possible. Many saws, like mine, have rubber tires, which dry out and crack pretty quickly. I upgraded to urethane tires, which will last much longer and run smoother. They take a special technique to get them installed. You can see how I installed them here: https://youtu.be/om6Q8zZBKjs You can get these tires at Sulphur Grove Tools: https://sgtool.com/product-category/urethane-band-saw-tires/ Guide Height Markings. I got tired of estimating how high the guide bottom was above the saw table or having to have the actual piece of stock to set the guide height to allow the stock to pass under it. Michael Fortune, an ongoing contributor to the magazine “FineWoodworking” had the perfect solution shown in a recent article. Although not mentioned, it’s there in some of the photos that accompany the article. Using 3 of my “1-2-3” blocks, I placed various combinations under the guide and then marked a line and number for each distance off the table from 1 to 7 inches. This cost me nothing, but it sure is handy! Now I can instantly set the desired heights and estimate ½ inches as well. Cool! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

Quality extension cords make a big difference in the shop, around the home, and on the jobsite. We’ve found that all cords are NOT created equal - getting a better cord really does make a difference. We’ll show you why. #extensioncord #powercable #powercord Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop I’ve had my share of cheap extension cords. And with the present level of inflation and the cost of good copper, getting a good extension cord is not going to be cheap. It’s true that you’ll get what you pay for. At first glance, all extension cords may look the same. But look closer. While similar, there are significant differences depending on how high of quality of a power cord you buy. First, there is the outside jacket of the cord itself. There are different standard designations in the cable industry that will tell you what you are buying. Here’s a listing of the codes that are used: "SJ" stands for Service Junior (meaning 300V rated service cable) "T" stands for Thermoplastic Jacket (meaning PVC jacket) "E" stands for Thermoplastic Elastomer Jacket (meaning TPE jacket) "W" stands for Weather and Water Resistant (Outdoor rated cable) "O" stands for Oil Rated So, if you combine some of those types, you’ll see products like an SJTW cord which is a 300V-rated PVC Outdoor Extension Cord. Or, you may see SJEOW designating a 300V-rated oil-resistant outdoor extension cord. The most common jacket you’ll see in most retail outlets is the “T” type, which is a PVC jacket. It is shiny and tends to be somewhat stiff, and gets stiffer yet in cold weather. That SJEOW cable is going to be less shiny, more rubbery, and more flexible, even in low temperatures. The cables we featured are from WattsWire.com. We really like the fact that they don’t even offer lower capacity/gauge cables. So, you won’t find 16 or 18-gauge cables in their catalog. When it comes to wire gauges, the higher the number, the smaller the wire and its current carrying capacity. So, Watts Wire offers only 10, 12, and 14 gauge wire sets. Another area to check the quality of the product is the moldings for both the male and female plug ends. Watts Wire moldings are truly impressive. The finish and “beefiness” of the molded pieces are really nice. They are translucent, so you can see the conductors and the female end has a power indicator light that is really handy both to know you have an energized cord, as well as to locate the plug end in low light. Watts Wire offers a 3-plug tap on their products. They are "fanned-out" a bit, so that allows you to plug in 3 difference devices with bulky plug ends. Just be sure to draw more power combined that 15 amps. We enjoy finding products that we’ll use around our hobby farm or on the job site and pass it on to you. Our initial impression is that these are very high-quality cord products. As is our custom, we’ll come back in a year and tell you how well these products have faired. You can check out our one-year review here: COMING APRIL 2024. You can check out the entire line of electrical supply products at Wattswire.com/DFJ. We think you’ll like what you see! JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay