Metal Plastic Electronics

While I enjoy the feel of the orange Hall effect joystick, it does feel different; “smooth” seems to be the most common adjective describing it. So I've still been looking for a Hall effect joystick that feels like a regular potentiometer-type joystick. And I think the Hall sensors in this kit get as close as I've seen. But there are complications. Modifications will be required to get these joysticks to work with a DualSense controller. And they do have a higher noise output than a regular joystick. I do a bit of modifying, a bit of testing, and a little teardown. And finally, it does end up in a DualSense controller. Joystick kit link: https://a.co/d/8fHmbYt GamePadTester link: https://hardwaretester.com/gamepad “Hall Effect Joystick Revisited” video: https://rumble.com/v4j07y2-hall-effect-joystick-revisited-tracking-down-that-different-feel.html “Hall Effect Joystick Replacement” video: https://rumble.com/v3y8997-hall-effect-joystick-replacement-for-the-ps5-dualsense.html 00:00 Intro 00:43 Unboxing 01:18 Functionally Test & Failure Mode 03:22 Hall Sensor Parts 04:56 Modification #1 05:52 Response Testing 10:16 DualSense joystick replacement 16:15 Modification #2 18:23 Teardown 20:05 Final Thoughts

Putting some of the ATtiny402’s modules to use in a small project. As well as my first use of the timer counter type B. It’s time to make the blades spin in a controlled way. 00:00 EP8 Intro 01:21 The PC Board 02:23 The MCC Melody Project 14:00 Test Setup 15:35 Initial run and correcting the problems 21:27 Final thoughts

Doing a few initial tests of the ATtiny402 in low-power states. And some of the complications involved in measuring intermittent tiny currents. 00:00 EP7 Intro 00:50 Power down 03:05 Isolating the PicKit 5’s Target Voltage Line 05:18 Programming Current 06:30 Standby ADC & USART 15:27 Low current measurement complications 20:00 Final thoughts

Curiosity can surely lead to some wasted time and a bit of a mess. Ever since I got the Canon imagePROGRAF PRO-4000 to teardown, the intermittent ink leak that caused it to be scrapped has puzzled me. I finally got a couple of hours to tear into the troubled ink tank unit to see what I could find.

The different feel from the Hall effect joystick is slight but very noticeable. The difference didn’t seem to come from a mechanical effect. In this video, I look at the signal differences between the Hall joystick and a regular joystick. First video of Hall effect joystick: https://rumble.com/v3y8997-hall-effect-joystick-replacement-for-the-ps5-dualsense.html 00:00 Intro 00:35 Test setup 03:02 Hall joystick comparison 09:30 Final thoughts

Trying out the ATtiny402 microcontroller in low-voltage operation and programming. Also taking a look at the data streaming port in the PICkit 5 at the same low voltage levels. 00:00 EP6 Intro 01:31 Programming & Operation 09:00 PICkit 5 data stream port at low voltage 16:24 Final thoughts

This Chefman RJ54-V2 espresso machine started not producing milk froth and would sometimes leave a puddle of water. Is a low-cost espresso machine even repairable? Yes, if we can find a suitable replacement part for what seems to be a non-standard seal. 00:00 Intro/Symptoms 02:00 The Problem 03:10 Testing 05:33 The fix 11:41 Final thoughts

The errors are random, intermittent print head errors. Sometimes there is no error but no magenta. And the worst of all, the printer stuck on preparing the ink system and would not shut off. It's definitely the stuff of nightmares when you consider the price of the ink. It’s a long journey, but in the end, it’s a printer that puts ink on paper and not in the waste tank. Come see how it all turned out. 00:00 Intro & Symptoms 01:51 Getting access to inside the printers 03:06 Testing 04:39 Signs of FFC damage 05:08 FFC replacement 10:12 First boot after FFC replacement & still one big problem 11:13 Troubleshooting “Preparing ink system” mode 14:39 A proper boot-up 16:34 Final thoughts

If you have replaced the joystick module or potentiometers in your DualSense controller and it didn’t go so well, in this video, I go over some troubleshooting ideas to help track down the problem. Multimeter used: https://a.co/d/gg8ERmz Test lead set used: https://a.co/d/hpMq7bR 0:00 Intro 0:41 Too far-off center 1:25 Test setup 2:25 Voltage readings 5:35 Trace testing 7:00 Potentiometer testing 8:17 Final thoughts

Just taking a look to see if you can spend under $50 and get a usable multimeter. Even if you simply want to replace the joystick module in a game controller, it’s worth having a multimeter by your side. 00:00 Intro 00:50 The selected meter 02:52 Test 08:15 Final thoughts

I will attempt a permanent fix for a Panasonic microwave that has problems latching the door closed. This model, NN-SN960S, was manufactured in 2010, so it was a bit older than I thought. However, it has been a good microwave, except for the door latching problem. 0:00 Intro 0:39 Disassembly 1:12 The root of the problem 2:04 The fix 4:09 Adjustments 5:44 Final thoughts

First thoughts on the 10-bit A/D converter in the ATtiny402 microcontroller. Using MPLAB X MCC to set up the ADC for use. 00:00 EP5 Intro 00:47 Analog signal 01:20 MCC setup 04:55 Added code 06:30 The importance of volatile 07:13 ADC at work 09:39 Final thoughts

Fixing a Bosch random orbit sander that stopped working in the middle of a project. 0:00 Intro 0:15 Finding the problem 1:06 The fix 2:15 Final thoughts

Using a mini-lathe with a 16 TPI lead screw to make an adapter. I want to attach my Marantz MPM-1000U microphone, with external M22-1 threads. To a Rode SM6 shock mount, with internal M20-1 threads. Plenty of metal chips along the way. 00:00 Intro 02:41 Internal M22-1 threaded section 08:43 External M20-1 threaded section 12:43 Assembly & use

This episode continues with the ATtin402’s USART module. Focusing on implementing the MPLAB X Data Visualizer’s DVRT protocol. The ability to read and write a variable in the running microcontroller program makes the DVRT session a very useful tool. 00:00 EP4 Intro 00:45 The DVRT example .h & .c files 01:55 Errors PIC to tinyAVR 02:56 USART & code setup 04:27 Strange bug? 05:04 MCC usart0.c code to DVRunTime.c code 09:09 DVRT in action 14:38 Final thoughts & code listings

I was very curious to see what a $1.50 Hall effect joystick module would be like. Would it even work? So I try one in a PS5 DualSense controller. Also, I take a closer look at the joystick module. Link to joystick modules: https://kasynparts.com/product/hall-effect-joysticks-module-controller-analog-potentiometer-for-ps4-ps5-xboxone/ 0:00 Intro 0:32 Teardown 1:58 Electrical test 3:36 Controller & adjusting 6:28 Joystick force comparison 8:28 Final thoughts

I’m using the ATtiny402’s USART module to output a variable from the microcontroller. This is geared more toward a debugging setup, as I’m only going to be dealing with the USART’s transmit section. Outputting both ASCII data as well as formatted raw data. And I discovered the MPLAB X Data Visualizer. Which makes the viewing of the raw data very easy. 00:00 EP3 Intro 01:00 USART setup 04:40 ASCII output 07:12 Time to convert an unsigned integer 08:37 Using the Pickit 5’s built-in serial port 09:52 Data Visualizer 17:04 Closing thoughts

Using the most basic tools to replace a DualSense controller’s potentiometers and/or entire joystick module. No expensive vacuum desoldering gun was used. But a soldering iron is required. And it is the hard way. Without the proper tools, every job is harder but entry cost is lower. Controller board removal video: https://rumble.com/v138jof-ps5-dualsense-joystick-replacement.html 00:00 Intro 00:51 Potentiometer removal 02:15 Potentiometer unsoldering method 1 03:55 Potentiometer unsoldering method 2 05:37 Replacement 06:46 Entire joystick module removal 14:30 Tools used

In this second episode, I’m exploring the ATtiny402’s TCA and RTC timers. Using MplabX and the MCC to set up and run the modules. 0:00 EP2 Intro 0:35 RTC Timer 7:27 TCA Timer

I’m still on my quest for an affordable crimp tool for the Molex 1.25-millimeter pitch CLIK-MATE terminals. This time I’m trying out the Engineer PA-09 crimp tool. This being a very versatile tool, I throw in a few extra test terminals. Amazon link to tool: https://a.co/d/hB6oELJ Terminals tested: Molex CLIK-MATE 5023810000 Molex SL 16020082 Harwin M22 M22-3040042 Molex KK 254 08550102 0:00 Intro 2:42 CLIK-MATE testing 7:52 Extra terminals 10:13 Final thoughts

I need a bit more fast storage space. I’m going to try adding an NVMe SSD via a PCIe adapter card. Prodded by the Western Digital WB_BLACK SN770 2TB being on sale for $85. I decided to give it a try. See if it would even work and if it did what kind of transfer speed could I get on this old motherboard. And I’m pretty happy with the results. M.2 PCIe adapter: https://a.co/d/0kia62I

I’m trying out a tinyAVR 0 series chip, the ATtiny402. Seeing as all my small pin count microcontrollers seem to date to over 10 years ago. I wanted to try something with a bit more modern release date. So this is a getting acquainted with the tinyAVR 0 family, well the 8-pin sibling.

Wondering if there really is any difference between solder wicks. I decided to do a comparison of a few. Turns out there are differences and enough for me to have a favorite. Items covered: Lesnow CP-2515 https://a.co/d/cednOzE MG Chemicals #426 https://a.co/d/5WgDTvg NTE SW01-5 https://a.co/d/7heL0Yo Chemtronics 80-4-5 https://a.co/d/b76Ggx5 TOWOT SW-2530 https://a.co/d/ai2Vy2X goot wick CP-25B https://a.co/d/0tEpGcB 00:00 Intro 00:35 The Contestants 03:13 The Test 07:18 Wire size 09:60 Final Thoughts

Fixing a left door sag on a Samsung French door refrigerator. The door had dropped enough that the mullion was not catching in its groove. Not wanting to take the door off, I make a spacer for the lower left door hinge bushing. Model RFG298HDRS 00:00 Intro/Problem 03:33 Spacer Build 06:15 The Fix 08:38 Final Thoughts

I’m tearing apart a few-year-old Canon imagePROGRAF PRO-4000 11-color 44-inch printer. Looking for any good items that might be worth saving.