Chanel - Fall Winter 2024-25 Runway Show Selection
“Deauville is where everything started for the House. 1912, the creation of her hat shop and then very quickly the first clothes with their visionary, radical style. It’s where it all began for Gabrielle Chanel. This story is very close to my heart,” confides Virginie Viard. On the racecourse, on the seaside, at the gaming table, in restaurants and palaces, on the “Planches” boardwalk: everything is about elegance and self-staging.
“For this collection, we recreated the Deauville boardwalk, she adds. Giant screens on which long, romantic silhouettes stroll in the light from dawn to dusk.” Shrouded in mystery, the models walk along the beach. The 1920s and 70s cross paths and intertwine.
Androgynous and cinematic, the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2024/25 Ready-to-Wear collection imagined by Virginie Viard draws its femininity from Gabrielle Chanel’s own wardrobe and its masculinity from the subtle elegance of winter sojourns by the sea. Broad-shouldered peacoats and long dressing-gown-style belted coats are worn over tweed suits – box-pleated skirts, culottes or cropped trousers –, drop-front trousers or trousers with tabs at the back."
Text by DailyMood.it
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Hermès - Fall Winter 2024-25 Women's Runway Show Selection
"When it rains in Paris, it pours. However, the show must go on, and Hermès made its grand return to La Garde Républicaine on March 2, 2024, to present Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s collection for Fall-Winter 2024 Ready-to-Wear. A torrential downpour painted the city in liquid hues outside, setting the stage for an extraordinary spectacle within. The runway, unexpectedly, transformed into a reflection of the weather, as Hermès seamlessly brought the outdoors in with a captivating curtain of rain down the center.
The Fall-Winter 2024 collection captured a mood of dark allure and subtle gloom, where shadowy tones intertwine with vibrant bursts of color. Showcasing sleek tailoring at its finest, alongside jodhpurs, and clean-cut wool jackets. Meanwhile, studded leathers added a touch of contemporary cool."
Text from "It’s Raining Birkins for Hermès Fall-Winter 2024";
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MAISON MARGIELA SPRING SUMMER 2024 COLLECTION - Show Selection
"Maison Margiela runways are known for their eclectic energy, unique locations and always avant-garde showings. Spring 2024 upheld many of these house signatures (while debuting more highly coveted Tabis, of course). Creatively led by John Galliano, the latest collection is about confronting duality: On a basic level, tailored items contrast fluid ones; black juxtaposes against white. But there's more to it, as Spring 2024 "stages a search for individual truth reflected in the generational adaptation of an inherited wardrobe," per show notes: Thus, there is a visually represented duality in time, as garments aim to trigger "a chemical reaction between eras." Pieces that feel Victorian, for example, are fused with contemporary elements.
The upcoming spring collection continues the story of Count and Hen, two star-crossed lovers on the run from the law (like Bonnie and Clyde: Margiela Edition). Their story — which was envisioned by Galliano and shown at the Fall 2022 Couture show — went on during the runway, where theatricality (and models who might as well be actors) enlivened beautifully crafted clothes."
Text by
MAISON MARGIELA EXPLORES DUALITIES FOR SPRING 2024
ANDREA BOSSI UPDATED:OCT 3, 2023ORIGINAL:OCT 3, 2023
for Fashionista.com
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Gucci - Runways from 2015 to 2024 - 10 Years of Fashion Shows
"Gucci is one the most renowned and influential luxury brands in the world today, a genuine global reference for fashion and accessories, and a benchmark for a modern, innovative business.
Founded in Florence in 1921, the House is renowned for eclectic and contemporary creations that represent the pinnacle of Italian craftsmanship and are unsurpassed in quality, attention to detail and imaginative design.
Today, Gucci is striving to redefine Luxury for the 21st century. Colorful, romantic, poetic and magical, Gucci's unique vision has met with immense critical acclaim while also creating an authentic emotional bond with younger customers. Now more than ever, charisma, innovation and a commitment to progress let Gucci take a radically modern approach to fashion.
In 2017, in keeping with Kering’s commitment to responsible business practices, Gucci unveiled ‘Culture of Purpose’, a 10-year sustainability plan that focuses on creating a positive environmental and social impact, which is outlined in the Gucci Equilibrium platform.
In January 2023, Gucci announced the arrival of Sabato De Sarno as Creative Director. He will present his debut runway collection at Milan Women’s Fashion Week in September 2023."
Text by Kering.com
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GUCCI - Fall Winter 2024 25 - Women's Runway Show Selection
"To a soundtrack mixed and directed by British producer Mark Ronson, Sabato de Sarno’s Gucci Woman marched into the foreground of Milan Fashion Week’s stage with a vivid personality, for Fall/Winter 2024. Citing small subversions on his inaugural output for the House, the freshly-minted creative director’s vision came further into focus, presenting attendees, like Solange, Kirsten Dunst and Salma Hayek, with a finer understanding of his larger manifesto at the Italian luxury brand’s helm.
“In my fashion as in my dreams, the exercise is the same,” de Sarno writes in his show notes. “Search within the folds for a void that wants to be filled. Look at the detail very closely, before feeling free to back away in pursuit of a broader perspective. Capture the extraordinary where the ordinary is expected. My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality. Because I am not searching for another world to live in, but rather of ways to live in this world.”
Thick trench coats and jackets, many of which were decorated with crystal embellishments, manifested this fanciful vision, as did light dresses that were similarly shimmering with sequins. The designer’s signature “rosso ancora” tone took over leather coats, dresses, bags and thigh-high boots, while his familiar light-green hue dressed formal separates and see-through pieces. Elsewhere, sky blues, mustard yellows, bright pinks and muted oranges contributed to the line’s kaleidoscopic effect, while neutral tones reeled in the full vision before it could become too chaotic. Just a dose of madness, however, saw the brand’s Horsebit Loafers elevate on platforms.
Overall, de Sarno’s latest offering is designed for those “ways of life” he searches for in his notes. With just enough fantasy, the collection is a physical manifestation of his aspirational dreams, crafted not to sacrifice wearability."
Text by Dylan Kelly February 23, 2024; for HypeBeast.com
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Schiaparelli - Fall Winter 2024-25 Runway Show Selection
"Daniel Roseberry's Fall 2024 collection for Schiaparelli marks a departure from the brand's celebrity-centric image, focusing instead on everyday pieces that exude a sense of legitimacy and accessibility. In a nod to the evolving landscape of fashion, Roseberry presents a lineup that celebrates individuality and self-expression, offering a refreshing take on couture-inspired designs.
The runway opens with Mona Tougaard sporting a tweedy mannish suit, epitomizing the collection's relaxed tailoring and nonchalant attitude. Roseberry draws inspiration from the desires of the women in his life, translating their preferences into statement outerwear and unexpected pairings. From a navy peacoat adorned with brand-name buttons to a puffer jacket quilted with six-pack abs and brass nipple buttons, each piece exudes a playful yet sophisticated charm.
The collection seamlessly blends humor and creativity with effortless elegance, as seen in stretch jersey dresses featuring trompe l'oeil leotards and intricately beaded evening gowns. Accessories take center stage, with high-top sneakers boasting molded toes and heels shaped like S's adorned with rhinestones, adding a touch of whimsy to each ensemble.
At its core, Roseberry's vision for Schiaparelli is to redefine the brand's identity, offering a true representation of reality infused with extraordinary elements. By prioritizing authenticity and inclusivity, he invites wearers to embrace their individuality and celebrate the beauty of everyday luxury."
Text from Kendam.com ; February 29, 2024.
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BALENCIAGA - Winter 2024 - Runway Show Selection
"Demna, the mononymous designer behind Balenciaga, just celebrated 10 years with the legendary Spanish brand. To say he has rewritten the codes of the house would be an understatement: He has studied the archive, burned it, reproduced it, and put it through a blender. He has started conversations in fashion around celebrity culture, cancel culture, and what it really means to get dressed today. And he posited more through his latest collection, set against massive screens playing AI-generated scenes of beaches, Paris, and snowy mountains. The clothes called into question what is old, what is new, and what is yet to come.
The invitation for the show was a faux eBay receipt, and each attendee received a tchotchke from eBay, from vintage Balenciaga scarves to silver trays handpicked by Demna himself. The invite says the items “imagination of personal stories, which give the objects new life.” So then, what about the clothes? Vintage-looking dresses with protruding hips appeared as if plucked directly from an archive right onto the models without being steamed or dry-cleaned. These pieces were countered with his signature oversized suiting, miniaturized or gargantuan track suits, cropped puffers with skinny jeans—the fare we’ve come to expect from a Demna offering. Bags were blown up to accommodate a lifetime of supplies, and the new accessory of the show was the 24/7 Mask, a polyurethane and silicone singular piece that hangs over the ears, providing the ultimate filter to see through."
Text by Kevin LeBlanc; Published on March 4, 2024 for ELLE.com
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Saint Laurent - Fall Winter 2024 - Women's Runway Show Selection
"In a show featuring body-hugging silhouettes and sheer ensembles, Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection is defined by transparency. To the Magnificat in D Major, the series of looks began with a coffee brown sheer dress accessorized with a fur shrug held to the side and a black gold-buckled belt. The opening look is then followed by an array of similarly sheer looks, some accompanied by luxurious furs and structured oversized jackets, making for a collection that's centered around the invisible.
"Anthony Vaccarello reminds us of what once was at the center of fashion by rendering it invisible: clothes," said the show notes. "Close-fitting silk dresses – resembling sheer undergarments – simultaneously reveal and shroud the woman wearing them, like hyper-graphic X-rays. Transparency – a Saint Laurent signature – is re-read, minimizing the distance between garment and skin so the two effectively meld and fabric evaporates like mist."
In Vaccarello’s latest for the fashion house, the body is proven to be the most important accessory, as garments made from soft and thin fabrics highlight the figure underneath rather than the garment itself. Many of the dresses stretch across the body and hit right under the knee, creating outfits that would otherwise be modest, if not sheer. This juxtaposition presents a union between modesty and nudity which is highlighted in the show notes: "Can purity be provocative?".
Transparency is a signature of Saint Laurent; designs that are fluid and risque are emblematic of the brand. Yet it's a mistake to think the brand and this collection in particular use sheer fabric to be provocative, as transparency is instead used to embody a woman's confidence. With this Fall/Winter 2024 collection, a woman and her figure are lauded as art. This is best seen in the wrapped, see-through dresses in browns, a burgundy red, and an eye-catching blue. Even the looks that are opaque, including the silky gartered dresses, present themselves in a fluid and alluring manner further meant to celebrate the feminine figure."
Text by Swarna Gowtham 02.27.2024 for lofficielsingapore.com
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Tom Ford - Fall Winter 2024 - Runway Show Selection
"The Fall Winter 2024 collection by Peter Hawkings for TOM FORD envisions the holistic appeal of fashion—from the tactility of fabrics and the visual appeal of tailored silhouettes to the power of scent and makeup. This comprehensive approach ensures that each piece in the collection is felt on multiple sensory levels.
In this latest collection, the silhouette is elongated, with textured accents such as fringing, cutouts, slashes, and treated skins, playing with notions of concealing and revealing. The collection pairs structured blazers and blousons with shorts as wide as miniskirts, the strict yet sexy military-inspired coats, and dresses that flirt with exposure, all complemented by high-heeled shoes, neatly designed clutches, and square-framed sunglasses.
The color palette consists of blacks, navies, and whites, and is punctuated by purples ranging from Parma to ultraviolet, all accented with touches of gold. This is matched by a diversity of materials that invite touch and exploration: voluminous felt, soft moleskin, glossy patent leather, bouclé wool, and lustrous barathea, among others."
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Text by designscene.net : February 23, 2024 in Fall Winter 2024.25 Menswear, Fall Winter 2024.25 Womenswear, Tom Ford
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FENDI - Women's Fall Winter 2024 - Runway Show Selection
"Fendi brought forth utilitarian cuts with a hint of extravagance, to mix English sensibility with Italian flair.
Relaxed-fit dresses and coats mixed with cool girl knee-high and thigh-high boots grace the runway, marking the salon-style aesthetic that Creative Director Kim Jones strived for with this collection. It’s clear that tailoring to highlight feminine lines while maintaining the sense of the every day was king for Jones. The denim look is towards the middle of the show, styled with polished blue leather boots and a fuzzy oversized clutch. It employs traditional tailoring while using denim, a material usually associated with quotidian fashion. The cinched waist and fitted skirt of the dress, with a relaxed fit towards the top, simultaneously channel the on-the-go casual Londoner and the high-fashion illustrious Roman.
A signature characteristic of Fendi shone through in the form of the riding boots, which seemed to accompany almost every ensemble. This equestrian influence isn’t new for Fendi. The fashion house’s oldest handbag collection, Selleria, is famous for using the same craftsmanship and leather as ancient Roman saddle makers.
Classic handbag styles, including the Peekaboo, Baguette, and By the Way, were reborn, with newly constructed versions of them appearing in a collection embracing sensibility and practicality. The deep blue, olive green, and rich brown colours seen on the handbags seamlessly integrate with the casual yet elevated dresses, sets, and coats."
Text by Swarna Gowtham; 02.22.2024 for lofficielsingapore.com
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Giorgio Armani - Men's Fall Winter 2024-25 - Runway Show Selection
"Giorgio Armani’s Fall/Winter 2024 show started with a short visual of the namesake designer approaching the front door of his home and glaring through his peep hole at the audience. His watchful blue eye remained projected in the backdrop of the runway, while models began cascading down the somber walkway in next season’s silhouettes. Under Armani’s supervision, the collection was aptly titled, “The Look.”
There were 81 looks, to be exact. The line began with classic suiting ensembles: blazers layered over vests over fitted shirts, and buttoned jackets concealed patterned tops that were tucked into roomy trousers. Here, Armani reimagined his signature eureka suit in many forms — some employing finer textiles of herringbone, terry or jacquard birdseye and others depending on differing proportions to stand out.
Later on, the designer shared an appreciation for velvet. The soft textile encapsulated a plethora of looks, composing billowing overcoats, double-breasted blazers, fitted vests and thick trousers. Notably, there was a velvet three-piece suit that adopted an all-over lynx print, worn not with a shirt but with a cravat."
Text by Dylan Kelly for HypeBeast.com, January 16, 2024.
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Gucci - Men's Fall Winter 2024-25 - Runway Show Selection
"Sabato De Sarno debuted his succinct and alluring vision for Gucci’s menswear during Milan Fashion Week Men’s on Friday afternoon, and with it came a lucid understanding of the creative director’s “Ancora” manifesto, which has defined his entire body of work at the legacy fashion house thus far. In Italian, the word ancora means “again;” in De Sarno’s Gucci universe, it means “a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy.” His debut menswear line tells this sartorial tale through sophistication and glamour, offering expressions of the classic man’s wardrobe that appeal to worldly patrons.
The show took place at Milan’s Fonderia Carlo Macchi, a factory fit with colossal metal beams and smooth cement floors. Emerging under a stark light, the beginning looks comprised neutral suits, mirroring those that appeared in De Sarno’s debut women’s collection in September, but these were built with broader structures for the male form. Leather gloves and bags adopted the designer’s “it” color, Gucci Rosso, which has assumed the starring role in Gucci’s public image ever since its prominent placement in his Spring 2024 collection."
Text By Dylan Kelly for HypeBeast.com; January 12, 2024.
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Jean Paul Gaultier - Haute Couture - Spring Summer 2024 Show Selection
"One of fashion’s running jokes last year was that anything could be new if you threw a bow on it. From jeans to earrings to even sneakers, the world was awash with neatly tied ribbons, and the designer driving the humble bow’s dominion was Simone Rocha. But what Rocha has achieved in her career is no joke.
Since debuting her label back in 2010, the Central Saint Martins graduate has steadily become fashion’s favourite darling for her unwavering taste and fresh eye. In what some have dubbed the ‘female gaze’, her playfully provocative approach to design has garnered a cult following, particularly as she reacquaints us with the traditionally ‘girly’ aesthetics of childhood in a style that feels both optimistically grungy and coquettish with a bite.
So when it was announced that she was to join a prestigious lineup of designers who have guest-designed for Jean Paul Gaultier’s Haute Couture collections, fans were enthralled to see how she would merge the two worlds. Not because she doesn’t have what it takes—she’s proven her talent in spades—but because it’s always difficult to envision the offspring of two houses. For example, one of the major disparities between the designers is in their approach to shapes. Rocha famously leans towards volume and gravity-defying layers, while Gaultier has always highlighted the body in a more sensual way, leaning into corsetry and skin-hugging silhouettes. But both certainly share an appreciation for vintage opulence and strength in unabashed femininity—themes that were dominant in the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture collection Rocha debuted."
Text By Pema Bakshi for GraziaMagazine.com
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#fashion #fashionshow #runway #hautecouture #jeanpaulgaultier #gaultier
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Balmain - Men's Fall Winter 2024-25 - Runway Show Selection
“It’s luxury, but it’s definitely not quiet.” That’s how Olivier Rousteing summed up Balmain’s fall men’s collection, with its riot of bright color, figurative prints and polka dots, metallic gleam and couture-caliber embellishments.
He opened the display with an overcoat paved in pea-size crystals that portrayed two eyes, a nose and red lips. Rousteing explained the face belonged to no one, generated by AI, and then made a painful expression when asked how the crystals were gradient-colored to achieve the effect. For now, it’s a mystery belonging to Balmain’s formidable atelier.
After nearly 13 years at the creative helm of the house, Rousteing keeps finding new missions for himself, the latest being to apply to menswear the same level of intensive craft and freewheeling expression seen in women’s fashion, and to build bridges between Paris and Africa. (The designer is of Somalian-Ethiopian descent, and was raised in Bordeaux by his adoptive parents before pursuing fashion studies in the French capital.)
Rousteing characterized Balmain’s return to a dedicated men’s show after four years of coed displays as a “rebirth,” with him freely borrowing ideas from the women’s archive of Pierre Balmain, referencing the arsenal of codes he’s introduced, tailoring being primordial, and following his own fashion instincts."
Text By Miles Socha, JANUARY 21, 2024, 5:01AM, for WWD.com
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#balmain #fashion #fashionshow #runway #runwayshow #balmain
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AMIRI - Fall Winter 2024-25 - Runway Show Selection
"Mike Amiri has the red carpet on his mind. Not as a showcase for his designs, mind: it was the inspiration for his fall collection.
“Looking at arrivals at theaters in Los Angeles [is] literally where I grew up,” the Angeleno designer said before the show. “You’d stand out there and see how people would dress and how the young stars would really dress. And they would kind of put it together their own way.”
In his opinion, that cusp of adulthood — picture a young Leonardo Di Caprio midway between adolescent heartthrob to “an owner of his own craft,” said Amiri — felt congruent with today’s menswear scene.
“People are putting their own twist and making formal informal in a little way,” he continued.
To translate that journey of feeling out and firming up one’s identity, he reached again for the intersection between the post-war optimism of the ‘50s with ‘90s volumes and slouch.
Out of the pink velvet-draped backdrop came dinner jackets paired with slouching trousers, retro-looking leather blousons toughening up a grandpa cardigan, suits made informal by an open shirt and singlet, a suit adorned with a print that looked like the sparkly sequins being photographed."
Text by Lily Templeton for wwd.com; January 18, 2024.
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House - Benjamin Tissot
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Tony Ward - Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023-24 - Runway Show Selection
"Heartbeats quickened, adrenaline surged, and anticipation peaked as the Tony Ward Couture Fall Winter 2023/24 Fashion Show unfolded at Palais de Tokyo in Paris. The exclusive event showcased visionary designs, sustainable collaborations, and a star-studded front row, defining the epitome of haute couture excellence.
In a bold departure from convention, Tony Ward fearlessly delved beneath the surface, exposing the hidden layers that lie within. The result was a breathtaking tapestry of art, technology, sustainability, and architectural nuances. Each creation acted as a captivating window into the depths of human expression, leaving the audience spellbound.
The collection broke free from traditional constraints, offering a truly transcendent experience. Unveiling an intricate interplay of unhealed wounds transformed into mesmerizing patterns of pores, audacious crisscross cut-outs that effortlessly bridged the divide between the corporeal and the ethereal, and a tapestry of interlocking braids mirroring the enigmatic layers beneath the surface; Tony Ward pushed the boundaries of haute couture to new heights."
Text from rain-mag.com, July 12, 2023.
#fashion #tonyward #runway #fashionshow #dress #beautifuldress #dresses #dressdesign #frontrow
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The Best of Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2024-25 Runway Fashion Show
"The Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2024-2025 fashion show by Pharrell Williams
After a first collection that celebrated the heritage of Louis Vuitton through its famous chequered pattern, and a second inspired by the surfers of Hawaii, Pharrell Williams travelled to the other side of the Atlantic for a men's autumn-winter 2024-2025 show that exalted the richness of his native Virginia.
On Tuesday 16 January 2024, in the Jardin d'Acclimation, in a black box decorated with desert mountains, and in front of a front row including Bradley Cooper, LaKeith Standflied and Dev Hynes, the 80 or so Louis Vuitton silhouettes revealed a new facet of Western style, infused with an elegance whose refined yet impertinent allure seemed to be drawn from the imagination of the French dandy. Discover five things to remember from the Louis Vuitton men's autumn-winter 2024-2025 show."
Text by Léa Zetlaoui for www.numero.com
#fashion #vuitton #louisvuitton #pharrelwilliams #fallwinter2024 #parisfashionweek #mensclothing #mensfashion #howtodress #menspants #pants #bags #louisvuittonbag
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Valentino - Fall Winter 2024-25 - Men's Runway Show
" Valentino’s Fall Winter 2024-25 “Le Ciel” Men collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli serves as a profound reflection on contemporary masculinity, unfurling its narrative in the heart of Paris. In this exploration, Piccioli delves into the intricate tapestry of what it means to be a man in today’s dynamic society.
The collection boldly employs pure color as a vehicle to convey ideas and ideals, liberating itself from the shackles of societal norms. Blue, an enduring symbol of masculinity, undergoes a transformative reevaluation, challenging established conventions and reconceptualizing its language in the context of modern men.
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s vision goes beyond the aesthetics of fashion, delving into the core of masculinity’s essence. He advocates for a profound shift in the understanding of being a man in the 21st century. The collection encapsulates the spirit of change, urging men to embrace discomfort and confront the wrongs perpetuated in the name of patriarchy."
Text From:
Valentino Fall Winter 2024-25 “LE CIEL”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. www.runwaymagazines.com
#fashion #valentino #runway #fallwinter2024
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Givenchy - Mens Fall Winter 2024-25 - Runway Show Selection
Gentlemanliness is an expression of character,” read the notes for Givenchy’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, designed by the French fashion house’s staff in the wake of Matthew M. Williams’ departure from the brand. The communal line offered a study on the “new gentleman,” through the lens of the House’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy, whose wardrobe can be divided into two dichotomous characters: public and personal.
On the runway, Hubert’s blouse blanche, which he famously wore in his studio, was reimagined as a workwear top, in both sleeved and sleeveless iterations. The famed designer’s formal uniform came to life in the form of suits and coats cut with armholes under their sleeves, referencing his love for capes. Many of them appeared in sapphire, a tone that Mr. Givenchy famously used as a substitute for black."
Text by Dylan Kelly for HypeBeast.com ; January 17, 2024.
#fashion #givenchy #givenchybeauty #runway #fallwinter2024 #fallwinter
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Milan Fashion Week: The Best of JW Anderson Fall Winter 2024 Runway Fashion Show
Mens Fall Winter 2024 - Womens Pre Fall 2024
"Here was a fall JW Anderson men’s collection rather light on fashion thrills, and also on clothes, recalling his show one year ago when several models appeared in only briefs clutching rolls of woolen fabric.
More substantial exits this time included sumptuous double-face wrap coats with roomy sleeves and jumbo collars; oversize cotton blousons, velvet blazers and fuzzy cardigans worn with baggy cargo pants, and handsome trenchcoats with epaulettes and tab-like lapels.
The women’s pre-fall collection was far more convincing, and sexier than ever, including terrific mini trenches, T-shirt dresses with lopsided, pointy skirts, and cocktail numbers with deep-V necklines and sleeves with built-in gloves, but worn with other gloves, the built-in ones dangling.
Also inventive, fetching and glamorous in a offbeat way: homely wool cardigans with satin linings puffing out like whipping cream might from an overstuffed profiterole."
Text By Miles Socha. January 14, 2024 for WWD.com
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Milan Fashion Week: ZEGNA Fall Winter 2024-25 Mens Runway Fashion Show
"For fall, Alessandro Sartori brought a corner of Oasi Zegna to Milan. Guests filed into the giant dark space at the former city fairgrounds where cashmere flakes in Zegna’s signature vicuna hue gently dropped from the ceiling to form a high pile in the center of the zigzagging catwalk, the sound of mountain wind blowing in the background, which was followed for the show by a soundtrack composed by British musician James Blake.
“It’s like our sala delle mischie,” or the room where the cashmere is blended at the house’s headquarters in Italy’s Trivero, explained Sartori, artistic director of the brand, speaking of the set.
There’s no denying the designer’s expertise with fabrics, and listening to Sartori always feels like taking a crash course in the treatment of textiles. This time was no different, as he continues to forge ahead with his extensive research and experimentation in fabrications, materials and dyes. The result was a beautiful collection that was an organic evolution of Sartori’s staples that felt fresh and innovative.
There were several introductions, such as his work on the side silhouette as pants showed a lateral stitch that helped keep the volume. The loden coat was revisited with a new construction that Sartori humorously called the sandwich, whereby three layers of cashmere were stitched together. In another example, a quilted coat was created by inserting a sonic welded duvet sheet between two layers of cashmere."
Text By Luisa Zargani, January 15th 2024; for WWD.com
#fashion #mugler #milanfashionweek #mfw2024 #runwayshow #fashionshow #fashionshow2024
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Milan Fashion Week 2024: The Best of PRADA Mens Fall Winter 2024 Runway Fashion Show
"Blue office cubicles doubled as photo ops at the entrance to Prada (HKSE:1913.HK +2.24%) ‘s Fall 2024 men’s show. In them, computer screens were lit with the Italian fashion house’s powerful signage, and in front of them, regular black chairs swiveled. It was almost as commonplace as stuffy workplaces come; but upon setting foot in the main room, the message clicked. There, those same spinning seats were positioned on a glass runway suspended several feet above a tranquil scenery. Fashion week-goers clamored to find their seats and networked with those near them, while water quietly flowed through a stoney creek and fallen leaves laid calmly on grass patches below them. It was a demonstration of the dichotomy between businesspeople and the environment, and it was called “Human Nature.”
“It’s nature that you can’t touch,” Miuccia Prada said in an interview backstage. “It’s a bit scary for me.” This intangible instinct served as the inspiration for the clothes, per Raf Simons, the other half of the industry-leading design duo. “There is this idea of echoing surrounding, being influenced by environments in the garments themselves – office and nature, inside and out, the instinctive change of people shifting between these opposite spheres,” he mused."
Text by Dylan Kelly for HypeBeast.com ; January 14, 2024.
#fashion #prada #fashionshow #fashionshow2024 #milanfashionweek #mfw2024 #runway
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The Milan Fashion Week 2024: The Best of EMPORIO ARMANI Fall Winter 2024-25
"As the lights went up at the Tadao Ando-designed Armani/Teatro, an enormous lighthouse was revealed, its spinning lamp drifting across the gathered crowd. Giorgio Armani – who made his Emporio Armani collection co-ed this season, showing a mix of men’s and womenswear – said that for this latest collection he had been thinking about the ‘impetuous’ sea in winter. As such, the designer noted a mood of adventure to the collection, an ode to ‘sailors, cabin boys, engineers and officers’ who take the high seas even at their most treacherous. As such, nautical hallmarks ran throughout, whether sailor hats or shirts, galosh-style gloves and boots, or cocooning, broad-shouldered navy overcoats (indeed, the strong shoulder ran throughout). A more sedate vision of ‘harbourside elegance’, meanwhile, provided opportunities for Mr Armani to indulge in the louche glamour for which he is known: the collection’s climax was a series of richly bejewelled or embroidered capes and tailoring. The ‘decorative flavour’ of these pieces, said Mr Armani, were inspired by the building layers of incrustations found on the underside of ships, here transformed in arresting style."
Text From "Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2024: Prada to Zegna"; published on Wallpaper.com
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Come to Milan Fashion Week 2024: The Best of Dolce & Gabbana Fall Winter 2024-25 Runway Fashion Show
" Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana presented a sharply tailored menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week on Saturday, showing long, textured coats and waist-length jackets to an audience that included Amazon founder Jeff Bezos.
Entitled "Sleek", the autumn to winter line-up was mostly black, with touches of white, grey and denim.
In their show notes, design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana said the aim of the collection was to channel "the recovery of values through quality expressed in all its forms".
The colour palette ranged from green to grey, and plum to dark blue.
Models wore long, pleated shorts inspired by Scottish kilts paired with leather boots resembling Wellingtons, and loose trousers tweaked with pleats.
Fishermen's coats and waterproof wax jackets added to the outdoorsy feel."
Text by Elisa Anzolin January 13, 2024; for Reuters.com
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The Best of DIOR Fall Winter 2024-25 Men Fashion Runway Show
"Dior's Fall-Winter 2024-2025 Menswear collection, unveiled with grandeur and precision, marks a significant milestone for the iconic fashion house. Designed by the talented Kim Jones, the artistic director of Dior's menswear, the collection pays homage to the legendary ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, infusing the runway with a seamless blend of balletic inspiration and contemporary elegance.
Kim Jones draws inspiration from his late uncle, Colin Jones, a British Royal Ballet dancer turned photojournalist who covered war hotspots and social issues in the 1960s. A notable part of Colin Jones's photographic legacy includes a captivating day-in-the-life story of Rudolf Nureyev for Time Life in 1966. This familial connection becomes the foundation for a collection that beautifully intertwines the realms of ballet and high fashion.
Jones dedicates the Dior Fall '24 menswear collection not only to his late uncle but also to his father, David Jones. The collection is a heartfelt tribute to both family and artistry, weaving a narrative that goes beyond mere fashion and resonates with personal history.
Rudolf Nureyev's impact transcends the familial ties, extending to Dior's own history. Notably, Nureyev partnered with prima ballerina Margot Fonteyn, a Dior couture client, in the 1965 debut of Romeo and Juliet. Jones delves into this connection, drawing inspiration from a 1950 strapless gown named Debussy, owned by Bath Fashion Museum, which sets the stage for a unique blend of balletic aesthetics and couture craftsmanship."
Text from Kendam.com January 19, 2024
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