Residential Blueprints - Part 2 - Demo Plan
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What is the Primary Side vs the Secondary Side of an Electrical Service?
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One of the things that many new electricians (even veteran electricians) struggle with wrapping their heads around is how a transformer works and what is the difference between the primary and secondary side is. Seems like it is just some voodoo magic! In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin dives in and gives some explanation to how it all works.
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A primary transformer is simply a piece of equipment that the utility company uses to step down their voltage to a usable level in a building. It could be any building- a residence, a 3-story commercial building, or a sprawling industrial site. The voltage that the utility uses is generally MUCH too high for us to be able to utilize in almost all building types and requires it to be stepped down to a usable range.
Remembering from previous discussions that electricity travels in complete loops. Transformers are no different. The cool thing about transformers is that it uses the relationship between the electrons and magnetism to do its thing! At the utility plant there is some type of generator starting the process. Wires leave the generator (whether it’s a coal fired type generator, a wind generator, even a nuclear generator) goes thru one side of the windings of a transformer, and back to the generator creating a loop. The voltage that is operating at this stage is very high probably at the 150kv range! Within the first transformer (or transmission type of transformer) there is a secondary coil that isn’t necessarily touching the primary coil, but the electrons get moving by the magnetic fields caused by the first coil and a different voltage is produced on this secondary side- probably in the neighborhood of 7200v. this is considered a distribution voltage range. Still too high for normal mortals to utilize but can be run thru neighborhoods to distribute to either the pad mounted transformers on the ground (those green boxes you see when driving along) or the pole mounted transformers. But we are still not quite done yet!
From those distribution transformers, again, there is a primary and a secondary coil in it. The primary coil is a complete loop between the previous transformer (the transmission transformer) and the secondary coil is a complete loop between the transformer and the building it is serving. As electricians, when we set a panel, we are simply putting it in the middle of that last loop! We don’t normally have the wires from the transformer going straight to the load, but rather have a panel in between the phases so we can control things and turn things on and off as needed. Again, electricity travels in loops, and once we understand that concept, things tend to become much clearer on how electricity works!
A closely related question would be what is the difference between the pole mounted transformers and the green pad mounted transformers we see in newer or higher end areas. Nothing really- its just a different way for us to get power down to a useable level! The pole mounted transformer system is considerably cheaper and easier to install. Drill holes in the ground to slide the pole in, sling some wires in between the poles and voila! But you do end up with the unsightly poles/wires to be seen by everyone. The pad mounted type is much more pleasing to the eye but requires considerably more labor. The ground must be dug out or horizontally drilled, conduit must be installed, trenches must be backfilled and THEN the wire can be run in between. Again, considerably more labor intensive, but much more pleasing to the eye. In addition, it also keeps the wire out of the effects of weather and away from the general population!
We hope this has been an insightful look into the primary and secondary sides of a transformer. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #primary #secondary #side #service
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Don't Connect Multiple Ground Rods to the Neutral
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Your Tape Measure Sucks!
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How to use Photo Cells and Time Clocks for Automation
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FREE STUFF - What Did You Like Most about NECA 2023?
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Should You Be ONLY Using 12/2? When Can You Use 14/2?
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When it comes to using NM cable to wire a house, there are 2 general camps that contractors fall into. Those that wire the house in 14/2 and those that will wire the house entirely in 12/2. But which is the correct way to do it? In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin dives into this topic and gives us some explanations and tips on doing it correctly.
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So, the initial response to this question is to check with your Local AHJ (electrical inspector) to find out their requirements and the requirements of the jurisdiction you are working in. The inspector will have the final say of what they are willing to inspect. The current electrical code (2023 NEC is the most recent, however, many jurisdictions are still using the 2020 NEC) is also a resource to be referenced. Articles 240.4, 210.21 and 310.16 are great articles governing circuitry and wire sizing. Something to keep in mind is that type NM cable falls under the 60-degree rating, and not the 75-degree rating used in most commercial wiring.
The next, and most practical, explanation of what to use to wire a house would be the circuitry type itself. In recent discussions on Electrician U, we have covered Series wiring and Parallel wiring. From those discussions, we have deduced that (for amperage) on a series circuit, amperage is the total of ALL the loads, and that amperage is throughout the entire circuit. This is because we must travel THROUGH one load to get to the next load. But, on a parallel circuit, the amperage is in direct relation to the resistance of the particular load within each leg, and the combined amperage of everything that is on the entire circuit is only on the conductors that are feeding. This is where we will focus on some options we have (again, depending on what our local AHJ will accept).
LED lighting draws considerably less amperage than its incandescent/fluorescent counterparts. So, while installing 12/2 NM cable from the panel throughout the power portion of the circuit, once we leave the load side of the switch, that can be run in 14/2 since amperage draw is less. Consider this circuit- let’s say we have a parallel circuit with one receptacle feeding a 5a load, a second circuit feeding an 8a load, a light switch that was controlling 4 LED can lights at 1a, and a 3rd receptacle at the end completing our circuit. With the first 5a load running, the amperage draw would be 5a from the breaker through our load. Once we started our second 8a load, the conductors around that load would be drawing 8a but where they enter the circuit conductors “feeding” the other loads, the amperage draw is 13a. If we added the 4 can lights, those feeding conductors are drawing 14a now, but those on the load side of the switch are only drawing 1a! So, as long as the local AHJ accepts it, many contractors will run 12/2 conductors throughout the receptacle circuit and up to the line side of the switch, and swap over to 14/2 for the load side of the switch throughout the lighting portion. Over the course of a large home (or many smaller homes added together), the cost/labor savings can be substantial!
We hope this has been helpful in deciding which wire (14/2 or 12/2) to use when wiring a house. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed? Please leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin Stelzer and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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NECA 2023: Where Electrical Contracting Meets Innovation
Hey there, electricians and tradespeople! We just got back from the electrifying NECA 2023 event in Philadelphia, and let us tell you, it was a powerhouse of innovation and skill. From September 29th to October 2nd, the City of Brotherly Love was buzzing with the latest and greatest in the electrical trade. We're here to give you the lowdown on what caught our eye and why you should be as amped as we are. 🌟
00:00 - INTRO
00:29 - DEWALT
01:25 - WAGO
03:12 - SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC
04:50 - KOJO
08:34 - CURRENT TOOLS
09:37 - HAMMOND POWER SOLUTIONS
10:46 - LIVINGSTON ENERGY
11:42 - KNIPEX
13:02 - ALLIED
14:46 - GORE-TEX
16:46 - OUTRO
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The Booths We Visited ⚡
DEWALT
First up, DEWALT knocked it out of the park with their DCE-600 Knockout Tool. This bad boy is a game-changer for making clean, precise holes in electrical boxes. Built in the USA, this tool features a 180-degree rotating head, magnets embedded in the dies, and threadless punches. This allows users to quickly throw the punch on the draw stud and then use the quick stud lock! It's the kind of tool that makes you wonder how you ever got by without it.
WAGO
WAGO was all about connections—literally. They showcased an array of wire connectors that are as reliable as they are easy to use. If you're tired of fumbling around with subpar connectors, WAGO is where it's at.
SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC
Before we move on to KOJO, we have to talk about SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC and their Pulse Panel. This isn't just any panel; it's a smart system that gives you access to all the information of each circuit. What's more, it learns the electrical usage of all your circuits. It's like having a crystal ball for your electrical system. Truly amazing.
KOJO
KOJO is bringing tech to the trades in a big way with their Field Services app. This app is a one-stop-shop for managing jobs, tracking time, and so much more. It's like having a personal assistant right in your pocket.
CURRENT TOOLS
CURRENT TOOLS had us bending over backward with their conduit bender. This isn't your granddad's bender; it can bend multiple conduits simultaneously, all with the same bends and height. Talk about a time-saver!
HAMMOND POWER SOLUTIONS
Transformers are the backbone of any electrical system, and HAMMOND POWER SOLUTIONS knows it. They gave us the inside scoop on their latest transformers, designed for efficiency and durability.
LIVINGSTON ENERGY GROUP
LIVINGSTON took EV charging to the next level. Not only did they have a unique spin on their EV charger, but they also had a wicked cool motorcycle on display. It's the future, folks, and it's electric.
KNIPEX
Whether you say Kuh-NIPE-X or NAI-PEX, one thing's for sure: their new handheld tools are a must-have. We were particularly impressed by their new needle nose combination pliers—precision and grip all in one.
ALLIED
ALLIED is making BIM (Building Information Modeling) more accessible than ever. They even print out the bend marks on conduits for jobs, taking the guesswork out of complex installations.
GORE-TEX
Last but not least, GORE-TEX unveiled their new flash suit made of one-ply Arc Rated Pyrad. This suit is as functional as it is stylish, offering top-notch protection without the bulk.
Don't Miss Our Podcast 🎙️
For more in-depth conversations and insights, check out our NECA 2023 podcast available on Spotify and iTunes. We dive deeper into the event, talking to other companies and key players who were there.
#electrician #electrical #electricity
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Did You Know?
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Why Do Some Devices Have A Ground And Others Don't?
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Blueprints Deciphered: How to Read Residential Plans (For Electricians)
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Most of us in the industry know that in order for us to build something, we must have blueprints to understand exactly WHAT is needed. If it weren’t for those drawings, the framer, concrete contractors, the plumbers, even us electrical contractors wouldn’t know what or how to build it. But knowing HOW to interpret what is on those blueprints is an art in itself. In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin explains how to read and understand what is on a residential set of drawings.
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For most residential drawings, they will usually always be an “A” set of drawings. This stands for an Architectural set. Commercial drawings usually have the full complement (Architectural, Structural, Mechanical, Electrical, Plumbing, etc.). This is because in a residence, the architect is the one who draws it, and the architectural components are the most prominent features. Sets of drawings for different buildings will be different in the way they look. So, what is on one set of drawings won’t be the same for the next building.
The first sheet of a residential set of drawings shows an overall of the lot itself- the house, trees, pool (if one is being installed), etc. It will also have an address and/or a map, which can be very useful when coordinating getting manpower and deliveries to the site. It may also have important details regarding trees- to have us stay away from them when installing underground so as not to disturb the root ball or have the wiring destroyed years down the road as the tree grows.
The architectural details portion of the drawings will take up the most sheets. If it is an existing residence, there may be a Demo plan. This is very helpful in understanding which components of the building are being removed and which ones are staying/being added to or changed. There will be Elevation drawings- both interior and exterior. These show what the building will look like if you are facing a particular wall. The exterior will show the different siding types- whether its stone or siding. Interior elevations will show the wall covering materials/bookcases/cabinets- super useful to the electrician as it will show you WHERE/HEIGHTS to rough in for things like sconces or receptacles above the counter.
If there are electrical detail sheets, that is a huge plus! Not every set of residential drawing has these- usually only the larger residences. Smaller houses or track type homes may require the electrician to do the full layout and figure out what goes where. If the electrical sheets are present, look at the legend- usually the first sheet in the electrical series. It will delineate the different types of fixtures/switches/receptacles. The lighting fixtures will usually be linked together with an arc line showing which fixtures are to be linked together under the same switch leg. It will also show you the different fixtures. So you know whether it is a can light or a chandelier (and what type of box to install) and rough it in appropriately. The power set will tell you whether it’s a single receptacle or a quad and will also usually tell you if it’s above counter or below (you will still need to refer to the architectural elevations to figure out HOW HIGH to rough the box in.
Homeruns are usually left up to the installing electrician to figure out which string will be receiving the homerun cable itself. Mark these on the drawings (usually the closest to the panel to cut down on length). It is also helpful to mark off as you get homeruns/boxes/interconnecting wiring installed so you know what’s still left to do. Just make sure you make the markings in a way that you and everyone working with you understands so mistakes are lessened.
We hope this has been helpful in understanding how to read a set of residential drawings. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed here on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin Stelzer and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #blueprints #deciphered #how #to #read #residential #plans
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Let's Talk About COMBINATION Circuits: Voltage, Current, Resistance, and Power
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We have talked about series and parallel circuits. But have you ever wondered how a series circuit works or what it even is? In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin covers part 3 of our topic on circuits- Combination Circuits!
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A combination circuit is simply a circuit that has properties of both series circuits and parallel circuits within it. And, remembering that trying to figure out values for Voltage, Amperage, Resistance, and Power each require different formulas depending on what type of circuit it is. So, the easiest way to calculate values for these in a Combination Circuit is to simply start adding all the groupings of parallel circuits resistances together (this will need to be done a few times depending on how many there are) until we are left with a simple series circuit!
Let’s review the rules. Voltage- in a series circuit voltage is dropped across each resistance while in a parallel circuit it’s constant. Current- in a series circuit current is constant but is proportional to the resistance in a parallel circuit. Resistance- in a series circuit resistance is the sum of all the resistances while in a parallel circuit it is the inverse. The formula for wattage in a series circuit Pt=I squared x Rt and in a parallel circuit its P=E squared/Rt.
Let’s do one. Say we have a 100v power source and a combination circuit of 7 loads with the following resistances- R1-1, R2-2, R3-3, R4-4, R5-4, R6-3, R7-2. R6 & R7 are in parallel with each other, R4 & R5 are in parallel with each other, and those 4 are in parallel with R3. We will add R4 & R5, R6 & R7, and then add those together and then add it to R3. Since each set has only 2 resistances, we can use the product over sum method. Adding R4 & R5 we wind up with 1.7 ohms. Adding R6 & R7 we end up with 1.2 ohms and adding those together we have 2.9 ohms. Now we can add R3 and R4567 and have an end result of 1.18 ohms! Now we have 3 loads in series with one another and can complete our calculations!
The total resistance of our circuit is the sum of all the resistances- 1 + 1.18 + 3= 5.18 ohms. The total amperage of our circuit is the voltage divided by the total resistance- 100/5.18 ohms or 19.3 amps. Voltage is dropped across each load and is equal to the source voltage. The formula is amperage multiplied by the resistance = voltage. R1- 19.3 x 1= 19.3v. R2- 19.3 x 1.18= 22.8v. R3- 19.3 x 3= 57.9v. Add those together and we have 100v or our source voltage! Lastly, we have the power to work out. Amperage x the voltage of each load = the power consumption of each and we would add those 3 values to get our total circuit power. P1- 19.3 x 19.3= 372.5w. P2- 19.3 x 22.8= 440w. P3- 19.3 x 57.9= 1117.5w. And our total power for the entire circuit is the additive of these. 372.5w+440w+1117.5W=1930w.
We hope this has been helpful in understanding how combination circuits work. Make sure to check out the other 2 videos for Series Circuits and Parallel Circuits! Both are super helpful in understanding how each one works and how they come together in a Combination Circuit! Is there a topic you would like to see discussed here on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin Stelzer and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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Electrician U Studios Is MOVING TO MASS!
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Electrician U is moving to Massachusetts! Over the next couple of months, Electrician U will be renovating a new space and moving from Texas! In todays Episode, Dustin walks thru the new space and talks a bit about his ideas as to what it will look like. Not that there is anything wrong with Texas (ok, so I may be a bit biased!), but moving to Mass just made sense. The editing team and videographer are there already and a change of scenery would be good. The content we will be producing will be just as awesome and new episodes just as frequent, not to worry.
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So, the first thing that needed to be done was get the existing tenants stuff moved out of the space into a new one. Then the fun begins! The demising wall had to be reframed and sound proofing added. This was done with several layers of drywall and some foam insulation sheets. This will keep the noise away from the recording area. The old 8’ T12 fluorescent fixtures will be demoed and new can lights will be put in. A green screen wall will be added to help with the editing process as well.
An instructional area will be built as well and will actually be several different spaces. There will be an area to show the commercial side of things- metal studs, metal boxes, conduit bending, MC cable installations, etc. There will be a residential area that will be comprised of wood studs so the plastic boxes and Romex cable installations can be explained as well. The area that we are used to seeing Dustin talk in front of the camera will change slightly. In lieu of standing in front of the wood/metal walls surrounded by books and electrical apparatus, the camera will be more corner focused and will lend towards a new and improved view.
The aesthetics will also change a bit. We are in talks with a neon sign maker that will be making an Electrician U neon sign that looks like the logo! Super cool!! Dustin is thinking of using a video game type theme, but with an electrical twist. Pikachu, Tron, Thor, anything with electricity in it will adorn the walls. This last part Dustin would like the help of the audience to give some ideas! So make sure and leave some comments in the comments section and let us know what you think!
Needless to say, we are all super pumped and excited about the changes and the upcoming move. There will be growing pains for sure, but well worth it once we get there. We hope you have enjoyed this look into the new space in our new location. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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How did Dustin become an apprentice?
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Can You Have Seperate Ground Rods For Each Sub-panel?
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DON'T USE THESE TOOLS!!! Use These Tools Instead If You're an Electrician
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Most of us who have been in the skilled trades for any length of time, will come up with a list of tools that we really don’t like. That list varies widely from individual to individual, but generally center around the same types. In todays episode of Electrician U, Dustin shows off the tools he really hates in the hopes that it will save someone the time and grief of trying these tools out.
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Before we get into specific tools, the agony of owning/using tools that are awful can almost be summed up in one word. CHEAP!! Do yourself a favor and buy something made by a reputable manufacturer that will perform and will last. As electricians, Klein tools are the most preferred by our trade and are definitely the pinnacle of electrical tools. They are manufactured here in the US, are made with quality materials, and are geared towards the electrician! Whatever your trade is, use the tools that are made for your trade. See what everyone else is using, ask the guys at the supply houses, or do your research. End result- when it comes to stocking your electricians tool belt, get tools that will survive the rigors of being beat up all day and will perform properly. You may pay a little more up front, but will generally make you much happier in the long run!
First up of tools Dustin hates are cheap tape measures. Ones with cheap plastic cases, skinny/flimsy retractable tape blades, or blades that automatically stay extended. You are going to drop your tape measure. Its gonna happen, trust me! Flimsy cases just won’t stand up to any abuse. Skinny blades also are a scourge. When measuring out in the field, many times we are trying to measure distance TO something and need a tape that will stay extended and not flop down at 3’! Magnetic tips are helpful when measuring for electrical items (as many of our materials are metallic in composition), and having something stick to that metallic object comes in handy. Milwaukee and DeWalt make some of the best tape measures around and seem to be the ones most tradesmen (and women) prefer.
Hammers are another item that you should skimp on. Leave a non-claw hammer out of your tool bag. If it looks like the hammer your mom had in the kitchen drawer while you were growing up, leave it there! Instead grab a hammer with a straight blade, one that has a little heft to it (between 22-24 oz. seems about standard) and a metal handle (it will last a lot longer and helps to balance the hammer). Estwing makes quality hammers and are readily available, but other brands like Stiletto make phenomenal products using light materials and are ergonomic in nature. Reasonably expensive, but so worth it!
Screwdrivers should be of superior quality and made with the electrician in mind as it is one of the tools you will have in your hands most frequently. Again, the trade standard seems to be Klein Tools as they manufacture the best hand tools in the electrical industry. Use screwdrivers that have a large cushioned handle and preferably a magnetic tip- at times if feels like we are installing a screw like we would thread a needle and a magnetic tip comes in very handy. Same can be said for your screw gun tips and bit holders. Don’t use the non-magnetic ones. Even though you will spend less, the aggravation you will experience will severely outweigh the dollars you spend.
When it comes to the most common tool for an electrician- the Linesman Pliers- again consider looking towards Klein Tools. Choose a 9” with some type of cushion grip. This is the tool that you will grab most often. Pliers less than 9” have less leverage to assist you cut things and inevitably use it as a hammer (sorry Klein, all of us electricians do, even though you tell us not to!). Choose the pliers with the options you want on it (crimpers, fish tape pullers, etc.).
We hope this has been a good look into the tools you SHOULDN’T buy. Are there tools on your list of tools you hate? Leave us a comment in the comment section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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How Does An Uninterruptible Power Supply Work?
Ever found yourself working on something crucial, only for the power to go out? 😱 Thanks to our friends at Schneider Electric 🌟, we'll explore the fascinating world of UPS's, including some top-notch models they've sent over!
00:00 - Intro
01:06 - Did You Know: Surge Protection
02:02 - What is a UPS?
03:53 - Electrical Theory: How Does a UPS work?
05:09 - Continuing Education
05:28 - Safety: Dangers in Batteries in Parallel or Series
07:35 - Demonstration: Installation of the Schneider 10 KW 3-Phase 208 UPS
09:12 - Code: Securing and Supporting 248.30 (A)
10:09 - Outro
In our 'DID YOU KNOW' section, we'll bust some myths about surge protection. ⚡ Nope, that lightning bolt symbol doesn't mean lightning protection!
Next, we dive into the details with the 'ELECTRICAL THEORY' section. 💡 Learn what a UPS is and how it works, including the intriguing process of rectifiers and inverters.
Safety is paramount, and in the 'SAFETY' segment, we'll discuss handling batteries and the dangers of stacking them in series or parallel. 🚨 Knowledge is power, and we're here to keep you safe!
Now, the fun part! In 'DEMONSTRATION,' we hook up Schneider's remarkable 10 KW 3-Phase 208 UPS. Connecting it to a new panel that controls our editing studio, 🎥🔌 we put it to the test - and it works flawlessly! A big shout-out to Schneider Electric for making such reliable equipment!
Lastly, in the 'CODE' section, we explore the ins and outs of strapping flexible conduit, touching on NEC Securing and Supporting 248.30 (A). 📖 Be sure to read the exceptions to know your limits!
A big thanks to Schneider Electric for sponsoring this video and for their continued partnership. Their commitment to quality and innovation never ceases to amaze! 🌐 If you're interested in exploring more about Uninterruptible Power Supplies, click the link below for detailed information on the UPS systems we've discussed today. Schneider Electric has the solutions you need to keep your power running smoothly!💡💡
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Common Misconception: Do Breakers Put Out Power???
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Have you ever wondered HOW breakers actually put out power? Interesting fact is that they don’t actually put out power and this is a common misconception among non-electricians. In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin talks about what a breakers function is.
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One of the larger misconceptions in the electrical industry (usually made by non-electricians or brand-new apprentices) is that a breaker will PUT OUT power. So, say a 20-amp breaker will put out 20 amps worth of current. In actuality, a breaker is a safety device with 2 primary functions. To LIMIT the amount of current allowed to pass through it, and to have the ability to shut whatever is on the LOAD side of the breaker OFF. But how does a breaker accomplish these 2 goals?
First, let’s talk about the overload function of a breaker. This function is the THERMAL portion of a breakers design. Breakers are designed to trip when the load becomes greater than its rating. So, a 20-amp breaker will trip when the load attached to it becomes greater than 20 amps, sort of. Most breakers are designed to trip (with the overload function) at 100-130% of their rated value. In-rush of a motor starting is one of the reasons why they are built not to trip at exactly their rated values. When a motor (or any load really) is attempting to first start up (from a dead stop), it will generally pull more amperage for a short period of time, as it is struggling to get moving from a nonmoving state. This will calm down within a few seconds (usually!) and will be within its normal range. If breakers weren’t designed to allow for this, then we would have to install larger amperage breakers and wouldn’t be able to protect the load at the values we need to and would run the risk of damaging equipment or overloading circuit conductors.
There is another major portion of a breaker’s design that protects against short circuits. This is accomplished by the magnetic trip of a breaker. The values of this function are much higher than the overload functions values and are in the 200-300% of the breakers listed amperage. Some breakers are even designed with adjustable magnetic trips. The reasoning behind the higher amperage rating of this function is that there is a considerably higher amperage available in a short circuit condition, as the loads resistance is basically removed from the equation.
So, as we can see, a breaker’s primary functions are to protect the equipment/conductors attached to it and don’t really put out power, but rather control how much current is allowed to flow through it. We hope this has been an insightful look into a breaker’s function and how they operate. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed here on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin Stelzer and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #common #misconceptions #do #breakers #put #out #power
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Is Electricity Stored in Batteries? Common Misconceptions
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Batteries are in many of the items we use on a daily basis. And why not? It allows us to be mobile without having to be hindered with miles of extension cords connecting our equipment to a power source. But is electricity actually stored IN a battery? In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin speaks about how a battery works.
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To better understand what a battery is, let us define what electricity is. Electricity is a function of an interaction of charged particles that we can use EMF (electromotive force) to move current through a conductor. A battery on the other hand is a chemical storage device that doesn’t generate electricity until conductors are hooked up to it. And even then, the electricity is EXTERNAL to the battery, not within it. No conductors, no current flow!
There are many types of batteries- Lead Acid, Nickel Cadmium, Lithium Ion, and more. For the purposes of this discussion, we will be discussing a Lead Acid battery. This type of battery is a container that houses sulfuric acid (H2SO4). It also has 2 lead electrodes in it- 1 Anode and 1 Cathode. One of these lead electrodes has a coating of Lead Dioxide on it that attracts the charges while the other repels them.
When an external power source is introduced (a battery charger) to the battery, a chemical reaction happens, and the sulfuric acid starts to change. The SO4 transfers to the lead electrodes (positive to one, negative to the other) leaving H2O2 as the solution. The leads now become PBSO4 and are positively and negatively charged). At this point if conductors are added to the battery, one on each of the positive and negative terminals, along with a load, electrons will flow through them. But this is all EXTERNAL to the battery itself, not INTERNAL.
Energy itself must be transferred from one type to another to be useful. Take a power generation station. Some type of mechanical energy (a generator) spins on one end and is transferred overhead (as electrical energy) to a building. However, electrical energy isn’t useful until we transfer it into something useful to us. Maybe its light energy (light fixtures) or heat energy (a toaster or a heater).
So, as we can see, batteries don’t really STORE electricity, but rather store CHEMICALS. When an external source of power is applied to the battery, a chemical reaction occurs, positively and negatively charged particles are transferred to their respective electrodes and are discharged through the EXTERNAL conductors when hooked up to these electrodes!
We hope this has been helpful in understanding what a battery is and how it works. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed here on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin Stelzer and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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NOT SAFE? Losing a Neutral in a Multiwire-Branch Circuit
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Have you ever wondered what would happen if you removed the neutral wire on a multiwire branch circuit? Would it be as simple as your toaster not working or would it be something much worse? In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin explains what would happen if you did.
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In a normal 120v branch circuit, I think we all know what would happen if we removed the neutral from the circuit. Since current flow needs a complete path from source, through the load, and back to source, the circuit would NOT function if the neutral was removed. It’s also helpful to understand that the neutral conductor carries the full load of the circuit in a normal branch circuit.
On a multiwire branch circuit things are very different. A multiwire branch circuit is where you have multiple phase (hot) conductors that share a common neutral. The neutral conductor carries only the unbalanced load between the 2 loads. There are rare cases where the 2 circuits are drawing the EXACT same amperage and the neutral conductor has ZERO load on it, but again usually NOT the case. If you were to remove the neutral conductor on a completely balanced set of devices in a multiwire branch circuit, you are in essence adding the loads together in series. Yes you have double the voltage, but keep in mind that you have double the resistance working against it. Actually, things would function as normal.
But if the loads were unbalanced (as they almost always are) things could get ugly! Let’s say we had an 1800w toaster on one 120v circuit (1800w, 15a, 120v) and a 600w TV on the other (600w, 5a, 120v). The neutral conductor carries the unbalanced load between the two, so it would carry 10a and everything functions normally. If you were to take that neutral away, you would in essence have a complete 240v circuit with 2 different sets of loads in series. The resistances would need to be added together (as is the case in series circuits) which for our example would wind up being 32 ohms. Dividing the voltage (240v) by the 32 ohms we would end up with 7.5 amps (and in series circuits, amperage is equal among the loads). Again, it is helpful to understand that in series circuits, amperages are added together to make up the total amperage of the circuit (for our case it is 240v with the neutral removed).
So, taking the 7.5 amps and applying the INDIVIDUAL resistance to the equation, we can start to see how damaging removing the neutral would be. Our 1800w toaster now is operating on 60 volts (7.5 x 8 ohms of resistance) and our 600w TV is operating on 180 volts (7.5 x 24 ohms of resistance). The toaster is not receiving the proper voltage to generate the 1800 watts of heat so it would not get very hot and is under performing. BUT, the TV is operating at much higher voltage than it is designed for and will most likely be damaged as the circuit boards would probably fry, things may melt, etc. Using the power wheel equations we can finish painting the picture of what our equipment is actually doing. Our 1800w toaster is now consuming less than a third of what its supposed to at 450w (60v squared divided by 8 ohms of resistance) and our 600w TV is consuming more than double of what it is designed to at 1350w (180v squared divided by 24 ohms of resistance). While the toaster is not suffering quite as much damage as our TV (again, the toaster will not get hot and may not last as long as it’s struggling to produce the heat without enough resources to do so), the TV will burn up quickly as it’s being pushed entirely too hard!
We hope this has been helpful in understanding the loss of the neutral conductor on a multiwire branch circuit. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin Stelzer and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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Single vs Duplex Recptacles
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How To Bend A Box Offset
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Residential Blueprints - Part 3 - 1st Floor Overall Plan
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How to Test for Voltage. What is Voltage? Can't You Just Use a Tick Tracer?
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As electricians, we commonly use voltage to test circuits and to make things work in general. But what is it and how do we test for it? In todays episode of Electrician U, Dustin talks about what voltage is, how we can test for it, and what equipment we SHOULD/SHOULDN’T be using to test for it.
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A good analogy for voltage can be pressure. For instance, pressure in a water hose. The more pressure, the harder the water comes out. Same with an electrical circuit. Or a Slinky toy. If you were to pull it apart, the pressure waiting for that Slinky toy to snap back into place can be thought of as voltage.
Voltage in an electrical circuit is a difference in potential between 2 different points. In an electrical setting, once energized, we SHOULD have a voltage reading between certain things and we SHOULDN’T have voltage between other things. So, in a 120 type circuit, we SHOULD measure (nominally) 120v between hot and neutral and hot and ground. In a 3-phase environment, we should have a voltage reading between the HOTS AND a voltage reading between HOT and neutral and HOT and ground. We SHOULD NOT have any voltage readings between Neutral and Ground under any circumstances, as these two items are bonded together at the service point and are in essence on the same point. If you DO measure voltage between Neutral and Ground, something is off in the wiring between neutral/ground or there is a faulty piece of equipment somewhere in the system, which either requires some attention!
There are many pieces of testing equipment available to us electricians, and they all vary in what they can test for and how much you want to pay for them! A non-contact voltage tester (also commonly referred to as a tic tracer) is probably the most basic of the bunch. It glows and/or squeals at us when it is near a source of something energized. However, these types of test equipment are historically inaccurate and test via capacitance. You just have to get it close to the wire/buss/etc. It also can’t tell you how much voltage is present, only that it is. All this type of equipment will show you is if something IS energized only, and the circuit testing should be verified by a proper meter. A plug tester will also light up and show you that voltage is present, and will also tell you if you have wires backwards and a few other options. There are even new plug testers on the market that WILL tell you the voltage that is present. However, this type of testing equipment will only work on receptacles! Great if you are working on a receptacle, bad if you are attempting to test in a panel or J Box!
We should be using a multimeter to test for voltage. There are many options/manufacturers available. A meter should be of high quality (you are trusting your life with it after all!) and have the options that you will be using frequently. If there are any doubts as to what type of meter you should buy, talk to your veteran co workers and see what types they own/use.
To test for voltage, spin the dial to the appropriate setting (voltage) and put one lead on the neutral wire and one on a hot. If energized, the meter will display the voltage present. You should also be able to put a lead on the ground and one on the hot and get close to the same voltage as you did between hot and neutral. In a 3-phase environment, you can also test between 2 hots and get a reading, although it will be a higher number than a single hot.
We hope this has been an insightful look into HOW to test for voltage and some of the equipment used. Remember, when in doubt on what you should be reading on your meter, ask a veteran electrician! They are an invaluable source of information! Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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What Are Polaris Taps? How Do You Connect Large Gauge Wires?
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We all know to use wire nuts to splice small loose wires in a junction box. But what about the larger ones? What to do there? In today’s episode, Dustin explores one of our shows sponsors- Polaris Connectors- and the multitude of options they provide for the larger wire terminations.
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In years past, to splice large wires, we had to use a Kearney (split bolt) connector to join the wires, then apply rubber insulating tape around the entire thing, before wrapping the entire thing with a high grade electrical tape. You may have a need to simply splice a set of wires or have a need to tap off of a larger feeder wire with smaller wires to feed different equipment. Labor intensive and time consuming for sure!! But thanks to Polaris Connectors, they have developed high grade termination blocks that are completely surrounded by a non-conductive rubberized coating. These terminations drastically cut down on installation time and much hated frustrations by the installing electricians!
The Polaris connectors are arranged by size of conductors, quantity of conductors, application needs, and installation environment. First, you choose the size of conductors you are going to be using. They are made with a wide range of cables in mind- #4-#14 on the smaller end, 3/0-#6 somewhere in the middle, up to 750kcmil-250kcmil on the larger end. Wire quantity is also to be considered when using these types of taps. You don’t want to just order the largest (which can be over 12 conductor capacity, although they do offer different options if space is an issue) as the taps are not overly small in size. Pick the quantity of conductors you are working with (add additional spaces if there is a possibility of future expansion) and order accordingly.
Another item to consider is the application itself. The connector can be ordered with the connection ports on one side if you are looking to splice conductors that enter/leave on the same side of the enclosure. They also offer a splice with the connection ports on opposite sides of the connector to be used if the wires are entering/leaving on opposite sides of the enclosure or if you are using it as a butt splice of sorts. If space is an issue in your scenario and you are needing to splice say 6 wires, they even offer a stacked connector that still provides spaces for 6 cables, but the ports are stacked on top of one another in lieu of all on the same plane. In other words, in lieu of 6 ports in one row, you can get them in 2 rows of 3. There are even models that have bolt down holes so you can bolt the splice to the back/bottom of the enclosure so your conductors can be trained out of the way and not just flopping around!
While most of our splicing needs are in a dry environment, there are instances where we would need a splice that is capable of living in a damp environment. Polaris Connectors offer a line of connector that is rated for wet/damp environments as well as a series that is capable of being used in a direct burial option.
A few tips to help when splicing wires that are larger in size. Make sure that you are not over stripping your conductors as this could leave you with exposed conductors that may lead to shorting. You also want to make sure to strip enough insulation from the wires, so the binding screw is in complete contact with the conductor and not insulation. Another tip is to plan where your taps will go within the enclosure ahead of time, and then cut/bend/shape your incoming/outgoing conductors to fit where you plan them to. It also helps to stagger your splices and not pile them all in one place in the enclosure as the splice point itself takes up more room than the conductor alone. The bolt down option of splice keeps your conductors where you place them! Lastly, make sure you are torquing your splices down to the manufacturers recommended torque values.
We hope this helped to show some of the options that are available when it comes to splicing wires. Do you have any tips you use when splicing large wires. Leave us a comment in the comments section and share them. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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