Every Electrician Needs a Stubby Screwdriver - What Hand Tools Are You Missing
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Lost Neutral in a Multi-Wire Branch Circuit - Part 1
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What's Your Favorite Tool? #neca #electrician #tools #apprentice #electricity #electrical
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Influencers and Target Markets
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I Never Failed an Inspection Doing This!
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Different Types of Disconnecting Means
Watch Dustin from Electrician U break down the essentials of disconnecting means in electrical systems. Learn about various types of disconnects, from main service to equipment, and get insights into NEC codes and historical shifts from fuses to circuit breakers. This video offers practical tips and code-compliant know-how for electricians in the field.
00:00 - Intro
02:04 - Materials: Different Types of Disconnecting Means
06:00 - Schneider Electric's VisiPacT Safety Switches
09:19 - Demonstration
10:18 - Did You Know?
11:31 - Electrical Theory: What happens when we can't shut power off?
19:44 - Code
First up, Dustin lays down the basics. A disconnect is not just a fancy word for a breaker; it's a separate device used to de-energize equipment when servicing is needed. No more confusion, alright?
In the MATERIALS section, we explore a variety of disconnecting means—main service disconnects, equipment-specific disconnects, and more. Surprisingly, breakers and even regular switches can act as disconnects if they're within sight of the equipment. 🛠️
Big shoutout to Schneider Electric for sponsoring this video and for their innovative VisiPacT Heavy Duty Safety Switches.
The new VisiPacT Heavy Duty Safety Switch:
First introduced in 1907, Square D™ brand safety switches have a long history of leadership in safety and performance. The new VisiPacT heavy-duty safety switch takes all the trusted features such as the switching mechanism and adds new, standard features such as a viewing window, hook stick handle, QR code for quick access to information, touch safe barriers, and more.
For more in-depth info, hit up Schneider Electric's website: https://www.se.com/us/en/product-range/7273-heavy-duty-safety-switches-/#overview
Up next is a hands-on DEMONSTRATION, where Dustin installs a VisiPacT Safety Switch. See how the pros do it!
In the DID YOU KNOW section, travel back in time to the era of Fused Panels. Learn why circuit breakers, which came into the picture around the '60s, are a game-changer compared to fuses. ⏳
In the ELECTRICAL THEORY segment, brace yourselves. Here, we talk about what happens when you CAN'T shut the power off—spoiler, it's not pretty. Proper de-energizing mechanisms are not just a luxury; they're a necessity. ⚠️
Finally, we hit the CODE section, diving into NEC's 422.30:
"A means shall be provided to simultaneously disconnect each appliance from all ungrounded conductors in accordance with the following sections of Part III. If an appliance is supplied by more than one branch circuit or feeder, these disconnecting means shall be grouped and identified as being the multiple disconnecting means for the appliance. Each disconnecting means shall simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors that it controls."
Remember, always stay up-to-code and double-check your work.
Whether you're a seasoned electrician or someone keen to learn the ropes, this video's got something for you. Don't miss out! 🎥👷♂️
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https://www.se.com/us/en/product-range/7273-heavy-duty-safety-switches-/#overview
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Surge Protection Has Nothing To Do With Lightning - DID YOU KNOW
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Huge Battery for UPS Battery Backup Power Supply
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Be Careful with Automatic Circuits!
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How Did YOU Get into the Trades? ⚡ #electrician #electrical #electricity #trades #apprentice
For Full Video: https://youtu.be/XgZpfhcGLBc
https://www.tradehounds.com/
David Bauders, CEO of Trade Hounds, interviews Dustin at IEC Spark in Dallas. "How Did You Get into the Trades?"
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What is the Difference Between Grounding, Bonding and Neutral?
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When it comes to terms of the trade, nothing gets more misunderstood or confusing as the terms Grounding, Bonding, and Neutral. They seem to be used interchangeably back and forth and can even confuse many journeymen. In todays episode, Dustin defines these terms and brings some clarity to each one.
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First lets understand that while a Neutral is a type of Grounded Conductor but not every Grounded Conductor is a Neutral. A grounded conductor is a conductor that is intentionally brought to ground. So, for most electrical systems, a neutral IS a grounded conductor because it is bonded to ground, but under certain circumstances it doesn’t HAVE to be.
A grounding electrode is something that is in contact with the earth (ground). It could be a ground rod, plate, underground metallic structure, etc. A grounding electrode conductor is a piece of wire (conductor) that connects the grounding electrode to the ground bus within the system. This is separate from the Equipment Grounding conductor. Way back in the electrical trade, grounds were not run with the hots and neutrals that those systems still worked. However, in today’s trade, we generally run grounds with EVERYTHING, so it’s always present.
Let’s talk about Bonding Jumpers. A bond isn’t a neutral or a ground specifically. A bonding jumper connects two metallic pieces of equipment together in essence making one large piece of metal. A Main Bonding Jumper connects our Grounding bus and bonds it to the Neutral bus in our panel. Some panel manufacturers accomplish this by using those large green screws. That screw goes through the bus into the metallic portion of the panel therefore bonding the bus to the can. It can also be accomplished by running a piece of wire in between the ground bus and the neutral bus. The result is the same. If using wire, consult table 250.102(c)(1) in the NEC for sizing. A Supply Side Bonding Jumper connects anything metallic before the main breaker to the grounding system. So, since we don’t run grounds from the utility transformer to our service we have to be able to bond those metal cans with something. Enter the Supply Side Bonding Jumper! Separately derived systems also have a bonding jumper. Since we have bonded the neutral and ground at our service already, what happens at a transformer (say 480-120/208)? That is where the System Bonding Jumper comes in. This connects the XO (neutral in the transformer) to the grounding system (EGC, the transformer casing, etc.). This is also sized using table 250.102(C)(1) of the NEC.
The Equipment Grounding Conductor connects any piece of equipment to the grounding system. Panels, devices, equipment, etc. are all tied together (from a grounding standpoint). The purpose of this is to provide an alternate path to ground (safety) in the event that something happens so that the breaker will open and shut power off to the equipment having issues. Its merely there for safety reasons. Equipment Grounding Conductors can be sized using table 250.122 of the NEC and are based upon size of the breaker feeding the equipment, whereas the Bonding Jumpers sizes are derived using the size of the largest service entrance conductor. An Equipment Bonding Jumper in essence connects 2 pieces of equipment together from a Ground standpoint.
We hope this has been helpful in understanding the differences between Grounding, Bonding, and Neutral. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #what's #the #difference #between #bonding #grounding #and #neutral
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Why Do We Need a Disconnecting Means on All Equipment?
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Are You an Electrician? These are 5 Formulas You Should Know!
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Being a great electrician requires a strong knowledge of math. We use it daily from bending conduit, to figuring out what wire to pull, even simply counting light fixtures or circuits. But which formulas should we be more familiar with? In todays episode of Electrician U, Dustin explains the top 5 formulas every electrician should know.
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First on the list is Ohms law. This formula is the relationship between Voltage, Amperage, and Resistance. In many cases, we are not given ALL of the information for a piece of equipment, but still need to determine either the voltage or amperage of it. Ohms law is simply E (voltage) over I (amperage) times R (resistance). So, draw a circle and put a large T in the center of it. Above the horizontal line of the T draw an E. On the left of the vertical line draw an I and on the right of the line draw an R. To assist you, cover up the letter you are attempting to solve. For instance, if I covered up E (voltage) it would leave me with I (amperage) multiplied by R (resistance). If I had a 20a piece of equipment with a 6 ohm resistance (20 x 6) it would be running at 120v!
The next formula is Joules law. This one is slightly different than Ohms law and is the relationship between Wattage, Amperage, and Voltage. The circle is the same as above but with a P on top, an I on the left, and an E on the right. The math is the same also. So, if I was attempting to see how many watts were on a given circuit, cover up the P and I am left with I (amperage) times E (voltage). For a 20a circuit operating at 120v, I would have 2400w. Both of these formulas are very useful because we don’t always get all of the information we need on the equipment nameplate.
Voltage Drop is something that every electrician should know how to figure out. For a single phase circuit the formula is 2 x K(conductor) x I (circuit amperage) x L (length) divided by the circular mils of the conductor you are attempting to use. For 3 phase replace the 2 with a 1.732 (the square root of 3). If you have a copper conductor use 12.9 and use 21.2 if you are using aluminum conductors. The circular mils for electrical conductors can be found in the NEC codebook in Chapter 9 Table 8. The resulting number after crunching the equation is the amount of volts that are lost. You may find that you may need to upsize your wire (and perhaps the conduit) to get your voltage drop down to a reasonable level.
Resistance formulas are needed for every electrical theory class! For a series circuit the total resistance is the sum of all the resistances. For a parallel circuit, it’s the reciprocal of the sum of all the reciprocals. So, 1 divided by 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 + etc. An easier way for that last one would be product over sum formula. So, if you had a parallel circuit with resistances of 2, 3, & 4 the formula would be 2 x 3 x 4 divided by 2 + 3 + 4. Much Simpler!
Lastly is Horsepower. Something to just keep in mind is that 1 HP is equivalent to 746 watts. For single phase motors the formula is HP= E (voltage) x I (amperage) x EFF (efficiency) x PF (power factor) divided by 746. For a 3 phase motor, simply insert 1.732 (the square root of 3) in front of the E. Efficiency you can find on the nameplate of the motor. If you have a completely balanced load that isn’t running a ton of motors you may have a power factor of close to 1. The more motors you have on any given system, that number goes down (say to .7 or even more).
We hope this has been helpful in understanding the 5 most popular formulas an electrician uses frequently. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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Why do we really have parallel feeds?
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Installing a UPS - Schneider Electric
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How Did YOU Discover Electrician U? #electrician #electricity #electrical
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Pro Tip - Using a Torque Tip on a Stripped Screw ELECTRICIAN HACK
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The WORST SHOCK I Have Ever Received!!!
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Of all the things us electricians do daily that can get us hurt, or worse, getting shocked is at the top of the list. In today’s episode, Dustin tells us about his worst experience with getting shocked and also shares a few tidbits of information that can help us understand WHY we get shocked & how to not let that happen.
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As with many of us, there are horror stories of the worst shock we received. For Dustin, he was working alone underneath a house, laying on the dirt that was soaked from recent rain, he was working with live circuitry in a j box, and had maybe 3 years in the trade. He tried using a voltage tick tracer to tell him when the circuit was shut off, but it gave a false reading leading him to believe that the circuit was not energized. A wire fell out of the j box, landed on his chest, and since he was in direct contact with the earth, he received a wicked shock. So, how could the incident have been avoided?
In the scheme of things, we should NEVER work on energized circuitry unless it is absolutely necessary (we are troubleshooting & need to have the circuit energized to see what it is/is not doing), we are testing and need the circuit energized to get values, or there is greater damage possible to property/humans well-being AND we have the proper training to work on it. Shutting the circuit off is the best way to avoid a shock. In addition to shutting it off, a proper LOTO (lock out tag out) plan should also be implemented, so there is no possible way that the circuit can be reenergized while we have our hands on it. This could be installing a breaker lock/tag or padlocking/tagging a disconnect in the off position, or something similar. A tip if working on a fused disconnect- take the fuses OUT when working on the circuit (in addition to locking it out) so there is no way that the circuit can make it all the way to you even if the disconnect is unlocked.
Another thing to keep in mind is the way we take care of and use our electrical testing devices (meters, voltage tic sticks, etc.). Do NOT just throw your testing equipment in the back of the truck leaving it susceptible to the elements and damage, throw it into your truck toolbox, or in the gang box and pile other tools on top of it. Our meters could literally be used to protect your life and should be treated as sensitive equipment. They should be kept in a separate box/bag/etc. and cared for. They should be tested fairly frequently on live circuits to check if they are operating properly and the batteries should be replaced on regular intervals. When using a meter (or a hot stick) to see if a circuit is de energized, they should first be checked on a live circuit to verify they are working, THEN check the circuit you are working on, AND then rechecked on a known live circuit. This will ensure your meter is operating properly.
IF working on a live circuit is necessary, a couple of important items should be taken into consideration. Do NOT work it alone with no one around. Make sure that another qualified person is available and knows what you are attempting to do. You should also be properly trained in the working of live circuits so you recognize and avoid the dangers. Proper PPE should also be used and will be task specific. When in doubt, check with your safety representative, your supervisor, or veterans of the trade. Keep in mind that electricity will always look for the shortest path to make a complete circuit, and if you insert yourself into that loop, you are going to receive a nasty surprise. Make sure you are not standing in (or laying on) a puddle of water or saturated soil and make sure your other body parts are not touching anything grounded, a neutral conductor, or another circuit.
We hope this has been helpful in understanding some of the ways you can receive an electrical shock and how to avoid them. At the end of the day, we are working to support ourselves and our families and if we get hurt (or worse) by getting shocked (when it could have been avoided), then we would be working for nothing! Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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How a UPS Maintains Constant Power
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How to Bend a 4 Point Saddle in Conduit
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Conduit bending and installation is an art that takes considerable practice. When it comes to bending conduit, the 4-point saddle is definitely one of the most difficult to perform. Even seasoned veterans of the trade struggle bending them! In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin steps us through the process in a way that is easily understood.
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Before we get into 4-point saddle bending, let’s take a moment to talk about aluminum conduit. Today’s sponsor- Penn Aluminum Conduit & EMT- makes some of the best aluminum conduit on the market. But why choose aluminum EMT over steel EMT? Well, it’s considerably lighter therefore it takes less labor to install and reduces wear and tear on your field staff hauling conduit around. Next, it’s much easier to bend than steel, again, making it less strenuous for your staff to install and using less labor. It’s also cheaper than steel currently, so it helps on the bottom line. Penn Aluminum has even engineered a coating for the inside of the conduit called Blue Lightning that helps with wire pulling and eliminates the snagging most often associated with aluminum conduit. Well worth it to try!
Whereas a 3-point saddle is meant for going over/around a smaller (probably round) obstruction, a 4-point saddle is meant for going over/around a larger obstruction. In essence, a 4-point saddle is 2 opposing offsets in the height of the obstruction, with a length of the obstruction in the middle of them.
The first step in the process is to measure the distance TO the obstruction and the height of the obstruction. Make a mark on your conduit using the distance to the obstruction. For this example, we are using 30-degree bends so a 2x multiplier comes into play. So, the second step is to make a mark of the offset height. Come back toward the end of the pipe and make a mark at 2x the obstruction height. Third, come AWAY from the end you’ve been measuring from and mark the conduit with the LENGTH of the obstruction. And lastly, add a final mark at 2x the obstruction height from your 3rd mark. Something to keep in mind is that you will be bending these in two sets- one two, and three four.
On to bending! Put the conduit into the bender at the first mark you made. Face the shoe TOWARDS marks 3 & 4 and the arrow of the bender on mark #1. Bend the conduit to 30 degrees. Without removing the conduit from the bender shoe, flip the bender over so it’s in the air. Slide the conduit down so the arrow is lined up with mark #2 and bend to 30 degrees. It’s important here to make sure you don’t dogleg your bends- so before bending sight down the conduit and line them up just as you would do with any offset. We are halfway there! Take the conduit out of the shoe and reinsert it at mark #3 with the shoe facing towards the bends you just made. Again, sight down the conduit to ensure all the bends are in line with one another. Bend to 30 degrees. Lastly, without removing conduit from the bender shoe, slide the conduit down to mark #4. Again, line everything up and then bend to 30 degrees. DONE!
A couple of pro tips for conduit bending. Use a pencil for marking conduit. You can rub off the marks once complete. Aesthetics is important! On most benders, when the handle is straight up in the air, you are at 30 degrees. Also, you can remove small dog legs by reinserting the shoe at the offending bend and take a bit of bend out, so everything is in line. It is important to remember that constant foot and hand pressure is required as close to the shoe as possible so as not to kink the pipe of bend the conduit any further away from where you want it to be!
We hope this has been helpful in understanding how to bend a 4-point saddle in conduit. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin Stelzer and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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Why Do You Use So Many Types of Screws?
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Sheetrock screws, Self-Tapping screws, Phillips screws, Panhead screws- Have you ever wondered why there are so many types of screws available? In todays episode of Electrician U, Dustin talks about a few of the most popular types of screws and what their uses are for.
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Let’s talk about the most popular screw heads first. Those are Phillips head and Slotted head screws. These are the oldest and easiest to produce so they tend to be the most popular. Originally designed to be used with screwdrivers (one of the tools an electrician ALWAYS has on hand- pun definitely intended!!). However, with the advent of electrical drills, and in more recent years cordless impact drills, they can be prone to stripping out of the heads if too much torque or speed is applied during the installation process. Still, you can find these types of heads in every screw type available- from metal, to wood, to concrete.
The Robertson head screw was developed to combat the inherent design flaw of the Phillips and Flathead screw heads of stripping out due to speed/torque during installation time. The recessed portion of the head is square and offers much more surface area and they tend to blow out less (although not completely impervious to it!). Allen and Torx head screws are also much better at not stripping out during installation and are very popular in todays screws as well. Pro Tip- if you are using an Allen headed screw and it has blown out, try using a Torx head tip to back it out. It is relatively close in shape and the points on the Torx tip will dig into the wallowed-out sides of a blown out Allen head screw. You can usually remove the damaged screw in this fashion and replace it with a new one. Pan-head screws offer a smooth rounded finish that doesn’t tend to snag on things after its installed. Hex head screws are also popular. You can find these in the fine coarse machine type screws as well as their coarser threaded cousins usually found in wood screws.
The screw shaft can also be found in different flavors as well. You have fine coarse thread machine type screws for metal work. An example of this would be the 6-32 screw us electricians use to install devices. The 6 portion of the screw designation is telling us it is 6 gauge (how thick the shaft is) and the 32 portion is referring to how many screw threads per inch. These types of screws are meant to be installed in metal, through a hole that you drill (slightly smaller than the screw shaft itself) and tap to the screw thread dimension.
The main difference between wood screws/sheet metal screws and machine screws are the threads. While machine screws are fine thread, wood/sheet metal screws are much coarsely threaded and rely on the wide threads to apply the holding pressure to the material. They do come in many of the head types we mentioned above. There are bolts also to consider in our travel through screw types. The difference between screws and bolts is generally diameter. Bolts usually have a much larger diameter and are usually finer thread. Wood lag bolts are the exception to this rule- they still are made in a larger shaft than most wood screws but share the same coarse threads. Lag bolts are meant to hold something that weighs a lot to the woods surface. Carriage bolts are also in the bolt family. The interesting thing about them is that they lack a head you can put a tool on and are meant to be fastened/tightened with a nut on the end. When you tighten the nut against the opposite side of the head, it brings the shoulder of the screw into the material holding it tight.
It is good to keep a selection of machine screws and wood screws available to work with in varying lengths, head types, and diameters. Make sure to have on hand a good selection of washers and nuts to go along with them. Many manufacturers make kits you can purchase with common sizes/lengths so you do not have to buy them all individually.
We hope this has been helpful in understanding some of the many screw types available to electricians. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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To Twist or not To Twist? THAT is the Question.
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Pre-twisting your joints under a wire nut has been and continues to be an ongoing debate amongst most electricians for years. Some tradesmen do and some don’t. So, which is the correct way to do it? In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin sheds some light on the subject.
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The topic of pre-twisting your wires prior to putting a wire connector on has been one of the most widely debated practices in the electrical industry. And it continues to be one to this day! On one half of the divide are the tradesmen/electrical contractors that say that pre-twisting your wires will make a solid connection even when the wire connector is removed. On the other half of the fence are the tradesmen/electrical contractors that say pre-twisting your wires is a complete waste of time. With 2 clear lines drawn in the sand, how do we know which is actually the proper way to make up our wires?
To start the debate, let’s talk about the wire connectors themselves. Wire connectors of past years were not made the same as they are today. I think we have all been there- out on a service call trying to troubleshoot something only to find that there was an old wirenut that had loose conductors within it that dropped power to some device. Expansion and contraction of the wire from being energized/deenergized, stuff being plugged in and out could have the wires worked loose if you didn’t twist them together really well. But todays wirenuts will actually twist the wires much better than the old ones did. You can strip your wires, put the wirenut on, and when you remove it, your wires will be reasonably twisted together. Today also, we use a lot of pressure type wire connectors (push in type) that actually do not spin the wires at all.
On the other hand, as we have all been there too, trying to add or rework something where someone had twisted the wires together can be a time-consuming process. Having to untwist the wire bundle to add or remove a conductor and then having to straighten all the stripped wire out can be a royal pain! And again, many wire connections today rely on pressure type connectors and not a twist-on type wire connector and require no twisting at all, which results in a much faster installation.
In the end, it comes down to personal (or corporate) preference. Many of us become very proficient at the art of twisting the wires and the amount of time added is negligible when compared to the solid connection we get. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific type of wire connector you are using also. If the instructions tell you to pre-twist the wires, then pre-twist them. If it does not specifically tell you, then do what you, as a professional tradesman, feel gives you the most solid connection. The end result should be a joint that won't unintentionally come apart and will stay a solid connection.
We hope this has been an insightful look into the argument of whether to pre-twist your wires or not to pre-twist your wires. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #twist #wirenuts
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Residential Blueprints - Part 1 - General
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SHORT - Apprentice Electrician Tools
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TOOLS USED IN THIS EPISODE LINKED BELOW!!
If you're about to start your career as an electrician but don't have a clue what tools you need, feel free to consult this list. In this video I talk about all of the tools that I deem necessary to start your career with. There will be endless tools that you will buy through the years but these are the basics that every apprentice electrician needs.
In order as they appear, I also time-stamped each tool so you can find them easier. If you'd like to buy them I've put links to each tool on Amazon below so you can order them if you'd prefer:
First up is to get a good pouch. You'll need a two-sided pouch with a hammer loop and a tape chain. One side of the bag should have storage for your hand tools, the other side should have multiple pouches for storing staples, screws, wire nuts, pens/pencils, markers, and a tape measure. You'll want a separate hammer loop (one thing I forgot to mention in the video...a hammer!) that hangs behind you from the belt. Its a lot easier to have a hammer hanging from behind you than off to the sides smacking into your legs all day.
Klein 10" flat-head screw driver with a 3/8" tip - https://amzn.to/2TASZqe
Klein long-shaft 6-in-1 multitool - https://amzn.to/2KrhPok
Stanley Sheetrock Saw - https://amzn.to/2DPQBrf
Klein Lineman's Pliers - https://amzn.to/2S78Nj0
Klein Side-cutting Pliers - https://amzn.to/2KoODyl
Klein Small Wire-Strippers - https://amzn.to/2DCpPSf
Klein Large Wire-Stripper/Crimper/Bolt-Cutter Combo Tool - https://amzn.to/2BochIn
Klein Needle-Nose/Stripper Combo Tool - https://amzn.to/2DQPEyU
Fluke T5-600 Multi-meter - https://amzn.to/2DQPKXi
Klein #2 Square (Robertson) Driver - https://amzn.to/2DSZ78Z
Klein ¼” – 9/16” Nut Drivers (more specifically 3/8”, 11/32”, 7/16”, and ½”) [your 6-in-1 will come with a ¼” and 5/16” so you don’t need to get these] - https://amzn.to/2DRnofl
Klein Mini terminating screwdrivers (Philips and Flathead) - https://amzn.to/2S3Mb31
Husky Utility Knife - https://amzn.to/2QZBiiw
25’ Stanley FAT MAX tape measure - https://amzn.to/2S72D2C
Non-Contact Voltage Tester - https://amzn.to/2S8MZUo
¼” Masonry Bits - https://amzn.to/2qXE6kV
Bosch ¼” to 1 ¼” Paddle/Spade Bits - https://amzn.to/2qZzevO
¼” and 5/16” Drill Drivers - https://amzn.to/2S74kgu
Drill extensions with Philips, flat, square, and torx tips (buy a whole kit of various tips separately) - https://amzn.to/2Ktnb2I
GFI plug tester - https://amzn.to/2DRoR5B
Headlamp - https://amzn.to/2FyaFA7
1 1/8” Stepped Uni-Bit - https://amzn.to/2S4DCVB
Klein Stubby 6-in-1 Multi-tool - https://amzn.to/2KpQino
18v Lithium-Ion Hammer Drill (you’ll need at least 2 good batteries and a charger) - https://amzn.to/2KnFuWM
Small Lightweight Drill (Screw-Gun) - https://amzn.to/2DRnuUn
Various Drill Bits (metal bits, wood bits, stone bits, spare drill extensions, drill bit index etc…) - https://amzn.to/2Fyjb1W
Set of fitted gloves (not leather gardening gloves – fitted mechanic’s gloves) - https://amzn.to/2S3GhyX
Several GOOD flashlights (check into Nebo) - https://amzn.to/2S1mVKG
Multi-Allen Wrench Tool - https://amzn.to/2DBoBXn
2 Sets of Medium-Sized Channel Locks - https://amzn.to/2R13521
NOT TALKED ABOUT IN THIS VIDEO – 22oz Ewing Claw Hammer - https://amzn.to/2FC8fAk
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