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POC supplied the gear to me at no charge, and I was not paid for the review by either POC or Competitive Cyclist. I am, however, in the Competitive Cyclist Affiliate program, so if you click below, every purchase you make helps support my channel: https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/O23XG The POC resistance T is not like a loosey-goosey Club Ride kinda vibe. I’d say it’s more of a contemporary interpretation of a “road” jersey, custom tailored for...longer days in the saddle where storage, comfort, and even DURABILITY come into play more than things like aerodynamics and weight. And here’s what I mean: the resistance T has cordura shoulders and sleeves and the pockets - all five of them, including two zip pockets - are covered with a water resistant fabric. The cam-locking full-front zipper doesn’t have the smaller micro-teeth you see on POC’s high-end jerseys - they’re bigger and beefier, which furthers the DURABILITY story and the back panel is super sheer which is great on hot days or when you’re wearing a hydration or backpack - and then the cordura shoulders come back into play to keep your pack’s straps from abrading the fabric. The fit is actually pretty close to a road racing jersey, but because of POC’s choice of fabric and construction - it’s tight enough to prevent chafing but...loose isn’t the right word...maybe...flexibble...it’s FLEXIBLE enough to remain quite comfy when you’re moving around on and off the bike. The sleeves are nice and long, and the waist length hits a bit short - which I LOVE because this is the jersey I’m gonna grab on the days when I KNOW my pockets will be overloaded and making the jersey sag a bit. So, how does all this come together on the bike? Quite well, actually. As I alluded to a few seconds ago - this is a perfect jersey for the long, self-supported days on my calendar (which are becoming more and more frequent these days). I have to admit I wish it came in a color besides BLACK, like POC’s amazing Hi-Viz orange, because I just cant use a black jersey 4 months out of the year where I live unless I’m riding on the margins of the day. And long death march rides are usually all-day affairs. But...having said that...from October to basically June it’s cool enough here to make this an absolute must-have on my crazy-long all-day slugfests because like most of you - once I get out of town - there’s nothing - not even a fire station with a garden hose, so porting as much food and water as possible is paramount, and having extra pocket space is a little thing that makes a HUGE difference. I really dig the big, chunky zipper too. I’ve unintentionally trashed zippers on I don’t know how many 300 dollar jerseys and it’s nice to have one that can hold up to my carelessness. Now, POC also sent me a pair of the resistance shorts, or ‘overshorts’ and they have a superlight - almost transparent - bib called the Air Layer designed to wear underneath. And listen, I’m not an overshorts kinda guy, BUT I did find myself wearing them ANY time I took off to the local pump track or skatepark for a quick sesh with my son. They’re comfortable, they’re durable, they’re incredibly well-designed and comfy - I just can’t wear shorts over my bibs. It doesn’t work for me, but if that’s your thing then POC’s two piece system is pretty cool and the overshorts move well and stay out of the way when you’re pedaling.

Buy Suplest HERE! https://glorycycles.com/shoes/?_bc_fsnf=1&brand=473 I’ve very enviously eyed Suplest shoes since the day they started hitting my social media feeds. I can’t really remember when that was, but I think it was around the same time MAAP apparel came out and they’d partnered up for what appeared to be a co-branded road shoe. Like the clothing, the shoes I saw were minimal, elegant, and had all the right colors in all the right places. So, when I found out that my old friends at Glory Cycles are the only online retailer for Suplest in the US I sent them a note and asked if they’d help me source a pair to review. Suplest graciously agreed, and if I’m honest, I was kinda giddy. I mean, after literally coveting these things for years I was FINALLY going to get my hands on...or my feet in...a pair. And then every morning for like a week, the first thing I did was check my email for the tracking number. That week turned into two, and around the middle of week three I shot the guys in Switzerland a note and they said all shipping was on indefinite hold due to Covid. I was crushed, but I set a reminder for 90 days and moved on. In the interim, as you know, our world got turned upside down and I found myself riding my spd-equipped bikes more and more, so I asked if they’d be up for sending me a pair of the CrossCountry shoes so that I could experience the glory of Suplest on ALL my bikes, not just the road. They liked that idea, too. Long story short, the shipping and production restrictions were lifted and when they arrived I unpacked them with white gloves and took photos at every angle. They were gorgeous, and I started breaking them in the next morning on my mountain bike. The first thing I noticed was the overall stiffness of the shoe - holy cow - the carbon soles on these rival my Sidi and Fizik road shoes, and the overall support and stiffness of the uppers was mindbending as well. And they accomplished all of this without sacrificing an ounce of comfort. The heel cup is nicely padded and has the grippy sharkskin or cat-tongue fabric to keep your heel from sliding. And let’s not breeze past that feature because it’s meaningful - especially on cross country shoes. You see, carbon soles don’t flex like a running shoe when you walk on them. That means the second your heel leaves the ground you’re turning that sole into a lever that pulls the heel of the shoe DOWNWARD. And also unlike running shoes, when you hit the backside of your pedal stroke, you’re pulling UP and in a sprint you might pull hard enough to pop your heel out of the shoe. And that’s where the fabric comes in - when you run your finger across it, it’s smooth in one direction and abrasive the other - just like a shark’s fine scales. If you’ve never owned a pair of bike shoes with this stuff, you should. It’s one of my favorite cycling related inventions in the last 10 years. In addition to the near-perfect heel cup, suplest uses the industry standard BOA for closures but underneath they’ve placed their CARBONSHIELD layer to help evenly disperse the tension from the boa. Suplest also employs their SUP Traction rubber on the outsole, and this rubber is tuned to fit the specific application of the shoe. In this case, it’s firm enough to dig into the trail when you’re walking, but soft and grippy enough to keep you from eating it when you’re walking across your garage floor. It’s a nice balance, and a final nice touch is the insole - I can’t tell you how many absolutely terrible insoles I’ve found in high end shoes (I’m looking at you Sidi), and these are just right. So, in many respects, these met my expectations. But in three respects, they missed the mark pretty badly. First: and this one’s really on me - bike shoes should not be made with just ONE Boa. It never works, no matter how clever you get underneath it. I was able to find the right setting, but only after the shoes broke in and it ALWAYS took a lot of fiddling with the wires to get it...almost...just right. And, speaking of braking in - it took a LONG time for these things break in, and the part of the upper at the top of my arch was PAINFULLY uncomfortable for the first 300 miles and they’re still a little sharp when I just SLIGHTLY overtighten them. I’ll wear them every day when it cools off because they’re pretty solid, and I’d say that while suplest probably didn’t intend to, they’ve made a road-bike-stiff gravel-specific shoe that can stand in the gap between your mountain bike clogs and your road bike slippers. The closest thing I can compare them to is my Shimano SPhyre mtb shoes, which are kind of a gold standard. The Shimanos are a 10/10 straight out of the box, and for summer riding I give them a 7. I think a second boa, cooler weather, and a lighter color - would get them up to 9 and if they continue to break in the way they have then they’ll be my #1 go-to this winter.

ENVE supplied the wheels to me at no charge, and I was not paid for the review by either ENVE or Competitive Cyclist. I am, however, in the Competitive Cyclist Affiliate program, so if you click below, every purchase you make helps support my channel: https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/3DJMn If you’re shopping for aftermarket wheels, there’s a dizzying array of choices and you can very easily sink into PARALYSIS by ANALYSIS if you’re not careful. So, I’m here to make this easy for you - close all those browser tabs and just buy a set of ENVE foundation wheels. Dollar for dollar, I just can’t find anything better. OK. So...bear with me here because this is gonna get nerdy...the Foundation 45’s are 45mm deep versus a front/rear depth of 39 and 43 on the 3.4’s and 49 and 55 on the 4.5’s. The 5.6’s are 54 and 63, but they’re not tubeless. Both version s of the 303 are 45 AND tubeless front and rear - just like the foundations. If we look at the foundation 65’s, they’re more aligned with the ENVE 5.6 and fall in between zipp’s 404 and 808. They’re a bit too deep for my tastes, and I didn’t get to test a pair but the data on ENVE’s site puts them in the same aerodynamic range as their DEEPEST wheels with one YUGE difference: they’re tubeless, so you get the added benefit of lower rolling resistance. Here’s what I mean: on paper, the 1600 dollar Foundation 65 could possibly be the FASTEST wheel that ENVE makes. The charts on enves site show a difference of only 1.78 more watts of aerodynamic drag than the SES 7.8 wheels, a number that’s EASILY overcome by the improved rolling resistance of tubeless tires. And...I’m just gonna leave that...right here...and move on to the wheel I actually, physically tested, the 45’s. At a high level, you get the same carbon, you get ENVE’s patented molded spoke holes (which are more durable than drilled holes), and you get a really nice set of house-brand hubs with NTN steel bearings. The premium wheels have STAINLESS steel bearings and a slightly lighter hub shell. Both versions have Sapim spokes, but the Foundations have the slightly heavier CX-Sprint instead of the CX-ray. The sprints are more durable and stiffer, where the rays are lighter, springier, and more aero. The 45’s weigh 1541 grams versus 1417 on the 3.4 AR and 1525 on the Zipp 303S. The new firecrest 303 is 40 mils deep and because of the shallower depth they hit 1352g. But it’s the internal and external rim width that really separates the 45’s from ENVE’s premium line. The 45’s and 65’s have an internal width of 21mm and an external width of 28mm. The 3.4’s clock in at 25 and 32. Both have the wide hookless system for increased durability and ease of installation but what this means is you can’t really run anything smaller than 28 on the AR series AND that your tires are going to balloon up about 2-3mm on the AR’s (for example, my 30’s measure just over 32 on the 4.5’s but the 28’s I had on the 45’s measured true to size, with no balooning. It’s not a huge thing, but if you prefer 25’s and 28’s because you’re a pure road rider who sticks to the pavement then the Foundations might be the better choice. I’ve also had the expectation that to get ALL THAT I’d need to spend premium bucks on premium wheels. Cutting corners was not allowed. And, man - I gotta be honest - if there was some way to subject myself to a blindfolded test of each set, I’d be VERY hard-pressed to tell you which is which and I couldn’t look you in the eyes say my $3500 4.5’s are any measurable percentage better than these $1600 Foundations. I mean sure - if you look at the numbers and throw the premium wheels in the wind tunnel they test better. And this comes back to my echoing refrain of “if you’re the type of guy who doesn’t want to leave anything on the table…” then sure - step up to the 3.4’s or 4.5’s and upgrade to the King hubs like I did. But if you’re not gonna lie awake at night wondering if the extra grand will get you to the top step of the podium - which it very well might - then I just can’t make a case for the higher end wheels. The Foundations are just. That. Good. They check all my boxes and they’re perfectly balanced. So balanced, in fact, that after a few months with the 45’s I just can’t let them go - I bought this demo set for myself. I don’t know if ENVE wants to hear that or not, and I don’t know if they’re worried about cannibalizing sales of the high end stuff. Who knows...maybe they looked around and figured out that a lot of guys like me have a road race bike and a gravel race bike and that they can sell us, effectively, two for the price of one.

I reviewed GRX on a Canyon Demo bike that was loaned to me at no charge. You can shop for GRX via my Competitive Cylist affiliate link here: https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/c/2360598/370726/5416 I only recently discovered the world of purpose built gravel bikes, and it’s been a complete revelation. I rode both versions of the Canyon Grail alongside a Pinarello Grevil and I even owned an Allied Alfa All-road for a while. And, probably the best part of my discovery has been that I can plan routes on these bikes that would result in dead end after dead end on even a traditional road bike with wide tires. But, the frame’s only one-third of the equation. You also have to choose the right wheels and you DEFINITELY can’t roll up and rip down some of the more challenging fire roads in your backyard without the right gearing, instant responsiveness from the drivetrain, and impeccable braking. And as I learned from the Canyon Hoverbar, the interface between your hands and the bars is another big variable in the gravel bike equation. Look - riding off road on a basically rigid bike with tires that are half as wide as my mountain bike’s can easily turn into a real death march, complete with a rattling chain as a rhythm section. And that’s where GRX kinda...comes to the rescue. As long as I can remember, Shimano has ALWAYS looked to their venerable mountain bike group, XTR, as the testbed for what comes next on the road, and in my eyes there were always some big leaps from one to the other. GRX is really the ultimate hybrid of my beloved Dura Ace group and XTR. The first thing you *visually* notice is the levers. If you look at the profile alongside Dura Ace or SRAM - they’re VERY different. And then, when you look at the forward angle - the difference becomes very striking - almost like comparing a duck’s bill to a platypus’ bill. AAND, when you wrap your hands around the GRX levers for the first time they feel VERY unlike any lever you’ve ever used. The cross section of the hood is really beefy, the rubber hood itself is thicker, and feeling the wide, flat surface area of the brake lever is a bit weird at first. But...then you notice the rubberized anti-slip coating, and the completely new ergonomics and it kinda starts to make sense - you get the same top-tier shifting control as their high end road systems, but they REALLY leveled up the amount of control you get in mixed terrain. Seriously - these levers are the real centerpiece of the group - the lever blades are easy to find when the road’s rough, and because there’s nearly twice the surface area as their road levers, you can still perfectly modulate the brakes...which are also sublime. It’s an undisputed fact that nobody does hydraulic brakes better than Shimano and GRX is no exception. Combined with a set of ICE rotors, there’s just nothing more confidence inspiring. So, the other third of the equation is the drivetrain and gearing. We’ve already talked about shifting quality, so let’s address gear ratios. There’s 1 by and 2 by options available but I rode the 48/31 double with an 11/36 cassette, and even though it’s a 17t gap this mechanical group shifted flawlessly EVERY TIME. I was also surprised by the stiffness of the crank, and I used the 31 a LOT more than I thought I would - it’s seriously a low enough gear to ride on some of your favorite super-steep singletrack, but because they’ve optimised it to work across the whole cassette I never felt like I was over or under-geared. And, of course, I got to use a derailleur with a clutch for the first time...I wouldn’t call it life-changing, but on a super long, extra bumpy ride like maybe Dirty Kanza I can certainly see why it’s beneficial. So, the big question i kept asking myself was where the road vs. gravel inflection point would be...what I mean is...when should TRULY consider GRX. Well, I say whether you’re building a full-bore gravel eater or a one-bike quiver killer I think GRX is a solid choice. And, if I were to try to identify an inflection point between GRX and say Ultegra, It might be as low as spending more than 30-40% of your time riding that bike in the dirt. It’ll definitely enhance your handling off road, and it won’t slow you down ON the road. Now, before I go I just want to say that Shimano had nothing to do with this review - this was all me. I simply felt so moved by the quality of the group that I had to put something together and share it. Also, If you’re thinking about picking one up or you want to take a closer look at the specs, do me a favor and click the link in the description - it’ll direct you to a familiar place - I’m happy to say I just signed up for the Competitive Cyclist Afilliate program, and I think you’ll agree it’s a great place to research (and make) your next purchase. And who knows - if I drive enough traffic their way, maybe they’ll send us a promo code!

Giordana sent me this jersey for review, but I was not paid to review it. Click here to support my channel and buy the FRC-Pro Jersey via my Competitive Cyclist Affiliate Program link - https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/DP1E5 It’s no secret that Giordana’s my favorite cycling apparel company: I’ve known the crew in Charlotte for over 15 years now, and they’ve always treated me like family. So, naturally when I launched this channel they were the first ones to jump in and offer to help. And I’m glad they did because this white forma long sleeve jersey is the new workhorse in my jersey drawer. I’ve owned, ridden, tested, and reviewed every single generation of the Forma and FRC line - going back I can’t remember how many years, and I actually just gave away my first gen jersey to one of the local juniors who was in need of some new kit. To say a lot has changed over the years would be an understatement, but there’s also a lot that’s still...familiar: the body clone fit is still fantastic, and the fine details like cuffs, grippers, zippers and pockets are all still well thought out and perfectly executed. When I first saw this jersey, I said to myself “wow, that would be PERFECT for an all-day ride like BWR” and I asked if they’d be up for sending me one to use on that epic day. They did, and after one ride I knew i was right (but more on that in a minute). After that, I pledged to wash it, fold it, and put it in a drawer until race day. Because, well, it’s white. And every white thing I own is a MAGNET for stains. So I did....I tucked it away….that was in February...of 2020 (in case you’re watching this in the future). Somewhere around march the May 5 start date of BWR summarily got moved to November, and as of today - July something 2020 - it’s looking like the November reschedule is gonna get pushed as well. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t see that coming like two months ago, but the upside is that I pulled this bad boy out of it’s vacuum-sealed bag and started using it. And I couldn’t stop.You see, here in Temecula it’s usually 50-60 degrees and overcast at sunrise and much hotter (and sunnier) by 10 o’clock, so I found myself in light arm warmers like the Giordana DryYarns most mornings. And, since they’re not as hot as traditional winter arm warmers I usually just leave them on for sun protection - which I can do up to the low 70’s. But with the white FRC pro - I can keep it on all day (my longest ride in it was about 8 hours), and it keeps me cool into the mid-80’s regardless of my speed or tempo, PLUS you get the benefit of UPF 50 sun protection without having to slather or spray sunscreen all over your arms. And like I said - Since I pulled it out its early retirement I can’t wash and dry this thing fast enough to wear it - it’s my absolute go-to on any ride over 3 hours and I found myself wishing I had three more just like it. But, that’s not to say it’s PERFECT. I was expecting it to be a little more snug - especially on the arms - like their EXO jersey which has compression fabric on the forearms. That would be a HUGE addition to the all-day endurance slash fatigue-fighting narrative of this jersey, and I think a nice upgrade over the stock sleeves which tend to wrinkle and bunch up on my toothpick arms. It’s also a tad too long, and as a result the pockets can get a bit droopy - but on the flip, whatever fabric they used ON those pockets is ULTRA stretchy, and you can totally overload all three on an all-day epic because of the two-way stretch fabric that frames them up and provides support. And last but not least, there’s a reasonably tall but not too short collar to keep the sun off your neck, which is a nice departure from the no-collar EXO jersey I was using before. Before I go, one side note about wearing it on a hot day: this is a summer jersey through and through but when you first clip in, your arms will be a touch on the warm side. But once the sleeves get saturated with a little sweat, you’ll feel a nice, refreshing cooling effect. If you want to buy one for yourself, click the link below, but before you do don’t forget to subscribe and hit the bell for notifications. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see ya next time.

Shop for a Polar Vantage V HERE: https://shrsl.com/2fvbh Training and tracking your fitness in 2020 is way different than it was when I got that first HR monitor over 30 years ago. I’m reminded of the anecdote about there being more computing power in ONE iPhone than there was in the ENTIRETY of the US space program in the 60’s. And every time I put on the polar Vantage V, which is every day now, I’m reminded of how far technology has come in such a short time. If you’ve been running or riding as long as I have, then your first heart rate monitor was a Polar. That’s an indisputable fact, because they were ubiquitous - I don’t even REMEMBER any other brands. Because of that, the name Polar, in my mind, has become synonymous with training data, and aside from a coach - the Vantage V is the single most comprehensive training aid I’ve ever used. Full stop. But…it DOES has a bit of an identity crisis goin on. More on that later. If you’re looking at picking up anything from the Vantage line, then I’m gonna assume that you’re laser focused on numbers, data, and making the most of MOST of every minute of your training and recovery. And this’ll help you do that, at an INSANELY granular level. And...listen, going into the technical weeds isn’t really my thing anymore - if you want a super deep dive then there are other more exhaustive reviews out there. I’m also a single-sport athlete, so the focus for this review will be on how the Vantage V functions as a training aid for cycling, and what it’s like to live with it as an everyday timepiece and smartwatch. So, as a cyclometer my benchmark is the Wahoo Bolt, which is one of the most intuitive and easy to use computers on the market. It’s simple, it’s monochrome, and it just flat out works. And because it’s all those things, it’s spoiled me from a user experience standpoint. I want to be able to pull something out of the box, download the app, throw out the instructions and rocknroll. And for being as complex and robust as it is, I was able to do basically that with the Vantage. I think all I used the manual for was to figure out which button did what. My first order of business after that, of course, was connecting to my Strava account because the Vantage tracks Live Segments. That was as easy as opening the app, tapping on General Settings, and flipping the Strava switch. On the bike, I had solid accuracy with live segment activation, but there were a few local segments that would mysteriously drop from tracking for some reason, which i think was tied to the recent changes in Strava premium’s entitlements because it miraculously fixed itself once my subscription and firmware got updated. And when I got home, uploading the ride to Strava was as easy as holding down the button at 8 oclock for a few seconds, opening the Polar Flow app, then pressing it again to sync. When I compared the ride data to what my Wahoo had collected, every metric was nearly identical from speed to mileage to power to altitude. And as an added bonus, it only used about a quarter as much battery life to record the same ride - so this will definitely be my go-to for extra long days in the saddle. Now let’s talk about 5 things I really love about the Vantage V. The first is band - oh my goodness. It’s so comfy, and gives you near infinite adjustment. And that’s nice because the second thing I love is the sleep tracking feature, which would be unusable if the band wasn’t this velvety. The third thing that blew me away was the battery life - I could go about 5 days between charges, and that typically included 6 or so hours of riding. And again - that makes it a go-to choice if I ever decide I need to do something crazy like Everesting. #4 on my list of favorite things is the built in core, supportive, and cardio workouts. It’s like having a personal trainer and zen master right on your wrist, and for a bike geek like me it made it really easy to cross train in tolerable 20 to 40 minute sessions. And this may seem silly, but this was my first smartwatch...so the 5th thing I love is that it mirrors the notifications I’ve got set up on my phone, including apps like Slack and Ring. My Wahoo didn’t support those kinds of notifications, and I also don’t wear my wahoo on my wrist….so, it was nice to be able to keep up with those apps without having to carry my phone around the house all day. And a bonus thing - thing number six - is this: since the Vantage is a full-blown cyclometer, I don’t have to put ANYTHING on my handlebars, which makes for a super-clean, minimal, almost analog-looking cockpit. It’s probably been 20 years since I’ve ridden without a stem or bar mounted head unit, and it’s refreshing to look down and see nothing but the bike.

https://www.canyon.com/en-us/gravel-bikes/ I need to start with Grail CF isn’t: it isn’t a de-tuned road bike with clearance for big tires. Nope. It’s a purpose-built gravel bike thoroughly engineered and painstakingly spec’d to take you where other bikes just can’t. One quick look at the angles of the frame coupled with the geometry chart on Canyon’s website point to the fact that this bike’s a totally different animal - it has a long wheelbase to increase stability, and the head tube height and angle are tailored to be ridden with a shorter stem to create an agile, yet completely balanced, set of handling characteristics. And with the addition of the ingenious Hoverbar and S15 VCLS seatpost, you get a very noticeable degree of baked-in suspension without any weight or efficiency penalty. Now, stay with me for a minute because I KNOW you want to hear about the hoverbar. I’ll come back to it, I promise. I had both bikes for about a month, and my testing consisted of 2-3 rides on essentially four wheel configurations: (1) Stock wheels with the stock Schwalbe G-one Bite tubeless 40’s (2) My personal set of ENVE 4.5 AR SES’s with 30c Rubino Pro tubeless, (3) Stock wheels with the Rubinos, and (4) ENVE Foundation 45’s with the G1’s. And yes - of COURSE there’s a link to the ENVE review below - and I’ll give you a sneak peek in a minute. In the road configurations with the Rubinos, they were both...well, they got the job done. I mean, they’re nothing close to the responsiveness and handling of my R5 or something like a Dogma or Tarmac, but aside from being a tad heavy and having more subdued handling they did fine as a road bike with the AL taking the edge slightly on a pure road ride. Listen, neither one was created for lapping the field in your local office park crit, but when I slapped the knobbies on and headed off road I truly understood why deflating the tires, raising the stem and double-wrapping the bars on my road bike just isn’t enough anymore. And here’s why: bikes like the Grail open up a whole new world of routes that you probably couldn’t have done before. Take this one to Palomar Mountain for example: 90 + miles, with a 12 mile fire road climb with 20-29 degree pitches dead smack in the middle. It averages about 8%, but it’s SUPER technical. I’ve been up it enough on my mountain bike to know that it’s unrideable on a road bike so my typical MO is to drive to the base of the climb, ride my hardtail up, and then blast back down. But, there’s a connector to the paved road at the top of the mountain that I’ve always wanted to do and I actually found a safe, paved route from my house to the base of the fire road. And, much to my surprise, when you max out the tire pressure in the G1’s they roll pretty good on pavement. So, since I had the day off I knocked out a 7-hour ride on the Grail CF with the Enve foundation wheels and G1 tires. I mean, what better way to test a bike, right? I knew at the outset it’d be the longest duration ride of my life, and I’d actually never climbed more than about 8500 feet in a single day before. The grail CF was flawless, the foundation wheels were a revelation, and the 31 tooth chainring coupled with the big, comfy levers on the GRX group saved my life. I also fell in love with the hoverbar. On the choppy sections of trail, it offered real-live shock absorption and when I was ITT’ing in the flats I could comfortably rest my elbows on the tops. If a descent got too technical, a quick shift to the drops was easy, and the lower crossbar under my thumbs provided a level of stability and security I’ve never felt in the drops before. It also provided a resting place for my palms that helped minimize strain throughout the day, and the transition from tops to brake hoods was wide, smooth, and flat. And when I found the occasional strength to get out of the saddle and womp on it, the hoverbar felt just as stiff, if not stiffer (laterally) as anything I’ve ever ridden. Switching gears, the same goes for the VCLS post - I couldn’t have made it up the climb without it and I KNOW the inevitable saddle sore situation would have been MUCH worse on a rigid seatpost. But what I didn’t tell you was that I ran yet another, secret configuration that blew me away: The Grail AL with the VCLS post from the CF and knobbies on the Enve 45’s. If you’re looking at this through the “one bike” lens and you don’t have a garage full of bikes and wheels already (like me), then you’re probably going to buy a second wheelset. So why not save yourself almost a grand and get a slightly more versatile setup? Here’s my back of the napkin math. The Grail CF and a set of ENVE 45’s would be 3199 + 1600 + 200 for a set of road tires, rotors, and a cassette for a grand total of $4999. The Grail AL with the same upgrades PLUS the squishy seatpost is 1999 + 1600 + 200 which comes out almost a grand less at $4048

Shimano did not pay me for this review, and as a matter of fact they have no idea who I am. Competitive Cyclist does, though and I'm a proud member of their Affiliate program. Please support my channel by clicking here to purchase your next gruppo! https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/bxbyb A long time ago, at a bike shop far away, I did a two-minute review of the first generation of Shimano Ultegra Di2. At the time, it was - dollar for dollar - the absolute best component group I’d ever seen. Nothing else since then has knocked me off my feet, until now - I got to ride the new-ish Shimano 105 7020 DISC group on a 2019 Canyon Grail demo bike, and man is it good My first ever ‘real’ road bike back in the mid 80’s had the very first generation of 105 So you might say got a soft spot for it. 105 7020 is aesthetically identical to Dura Ace: it looks GREAT on the bike and to my hands, the levers feel exactly the same. The black cranks are better looking than their Ultegra cousin and the rubbery front derailleur shifting that plagued past 105 groups is LONG gone...and the rear shifting and lever ‘feel’ is as smooth and as crisp as my DA 9000 group. From what I can tell, the price for a full kit ranges anywhere from 600-800 dollars. Ultegra is 1200ish and Dura Ace can be had for 2000, but unless you’re a complete weight weenie Shimano has almost made Ultegra redundant at this point and if you’re eyeing a complete road or gravel bike in the 2000 dollar range, it blows bikes in that range with SRAM builds clear into next week. I’m not gonna fixate on cassettes and chains here, because they’re almost identical to Ultegra but what I WILL fixate on is the brakes - because they’re incredible: Stopping power, feel, modulation, EVERYTHING is pitch perfect. They remind me of Shimano’s all-time great XT mountain bike brakes - which were, and still are, some of the finest disc brakes ever made. And the 105’s, tuned for the road, go toe to toe with the XT’s in every way. I wouldn’t hesitate to throw this group on a top end carbon bike and use the money I save to splurge on a nice set of wheels, a powermeter, or a premium smart trainer and a Zwift subscription. Is it light? No. Does it have the ‘prestige’ of Dura Ace or Campy Record? No. But guess what - it’s so damn good that I just don’t care. So, to say I was pleasantly surprised is an understatement. I had the previous version on a BMC not too long ago and it was total crap - it felt flimsy, there was a ton of plastic, and the brake calipers weighed as much as a brick. It was barely a step up from Sora: It definitely had an ‘entry level’ feel, but that’s also long gone. 105 7020 has a much higher quality feel, and an almost premium finish. Now, before I go I just want to say that Shimano had nothing to do with this review - this was all me. I simply felt so moved by the quality of the group that I had to put something together and share it because I was honestly blown away. If you’re thinking about picking one up or you want to take a closer look at the specs, do me a favor and click the link in the description - it’ll direct you to a familiar place - I’m happy to say I just signed up for the Competitive Cyclist Afilliate program, and I think you’ll agree it’s a great place to research (and make) your next purchase. And who knows - if I drive enough traffic their way, maybe they’ll send us a promo code! One last thing - I want to give a quick thanks to all my subscribers. I passed the 400 mark this week, and a few of my videos are up over 3,000 views. I’m truly humbled, and I’m really gonna get the ball rolling. I’m working through scripts for about 12 videos right now, so it should be an active month or two. On the docket is: Pinarello Grevil - Jerseys and bibs from Giordana - POC helmets, kits, and sunglasses - Suplest shoes - the Polar Vantage V, and a 3-way shootout of the Grevil and the Canyon Grails. I’ve also got the inside line on a NEW Pinarello model and should be seeing some Canyon road bikes in my garage soon. Oh! And my first ever BAAAAAAD review. Like, scathing. You’ll love it. So, if you haven’t subscribed and want to know when these are published, please do and ring the bell icon to be notified when they ‘drop’ if, uh that’s what the kids are saying these days. OK, see ya next time.

If you’re watching this - you’re probably a cyclist. And, there’s a good chance you’re a dad, too. And I’ll go one step further and say you’ve probably been disappointed with what’s generally available for your kids to ride. I mean, sure - there’s no shortage of options from the big box brands, but NONE of those bikes are designed from the ground up for children - they’re really just smaller versions of their adult bikes. And that’s fine...I guess...but personally, I STRUGGLED to get my eight year old daughter on a bike for years - everything I brought home was either too big or too small, her hands weren’t strong enough to operate the shifters, nor were they big enough to reach the brake levers! And the bikes I got from the name brands were tanks - which made them even harder to ride and do something as simple as just picking it up when she laid it down in the grass by the playground. Frog’s was founded in the UK by Jerry and Shelley Lawson in 2013. After having an almost identical experience as me, they were so inspired that they left their corporate careers behind to create bikes just for kids.And that’s where Frog Bikes was born. I pulled this quote from their website, and I think it speaks volumes: “Our bikes are not scaled down adult bikes, as children are not miniature adults. At Frog, we put the child into the centre, and design our bikes around the child’s unique anatomy in order to suit his/her unique needs”. That means everything from geometry to componentry has been engineered to make a child's journey as comfortable and ENJOYABLE as possible. (remember that, because we’ll come back to it). More specifically, this means features such as adjustable short throw brake levers, shorter cranks, scaled down handlebars, and an optional handlebar stem add-on provide room for growth Two other small things that make a HUGE difference are (1) shifters that are 60% easier to shift than stock ‘adult’ shifters and suspension that’s tuned to 60-pound riders, not 160 pound grown ups. These incremental changes add up aup to give your littles an added degree of comfort, fit, and most importantly: confidence (another thing we’ll come back to in a minute). Frog sent me two bikes: the Road 58 and the Mountain 62. Let’s take a closer look and see how they’re spec’d. The Frog 58 Road bike has 20 inch wheels and two sets of Kenda tires (for road and gravel), and the lightweight 6061 T6 Aluminum frame has ample clearance for both sets. Smooth, but not grabby stopping power is courtesy of Tektro cantilever brakes. It has a microshift 1x9 drivetrain with short throw shifting, a 32 tooth chainring, an 1132 cassette, and there are auxiliary levers at the tops, if your little one - like mine - isn’t ready to hammer in the drops just yet. Now...if you know me - you know that there may not be a bigger bike snob….anywhere on earth….than me. So as you can imagine I approached both bikes with a very critical eye. And what I found was nothing short of two fully customized bikes. Seriously - when you back away and take a look at the big picture: these things aren’t unlike a bespoke Pegoretti or Moots - they’re dripping with exclusive components...they’re engineered completely around the rider...they’re tuned for performance...and built to last. Earlier, I said I’d come back to two things: enjoyment and confidence. When these bikes arrived - neither one of my kids was very stoked because the frogs are just a touch too big for each of them and they were still kinda hooked on their little 16 inch craigslist neighborhood bikes. I wasn’t too worried about my son - he took to the 62 pretty quick and was blasting up and down the street in no time, but my daughter was another story. She’s the oldest, and really didn’t take to the bike until literally a few weeks before the Frogs got here. I mean it - getting her to even ride around the BLOCK was like pulling teeth and she’s got a nice little Trek mountain bike. I can’t remember exactly how it happened,and I promise I’m not making this up but once we got her set up and got her going on the 58 she. Was. un. Stoppable. When I asked her what was different, she said “dad - it’s SOOOO much easier to ride. And its so fast!” And now, without any cajoling from me or her mom - she wants to ride it every day. And, that’s frog’s mission. In a nutshell, yes they make bikes but what they REALLY want to make is cyclists. And in my opinion, that’s just not gonna happen on a heavy clunker that’s hard to ride. Frog's child-centred approach has earned them global accolade; industry awards for innovation and design, an award-winning factory, around 1,800 retailers worldwide and thriving partnerships. If you’d like more information, please contact nainfo@frogbikes.com

Click here to shop for a new bike at The Pro's Closet! https://pros-closet.sjv.io/EmggP Well, today’s the day - the bike I ordered from The Pro’s Closet is here and I’m going to unpack it. Now, notice I said UNPACK not UNBOX. I’ve done two or three unboxing videos, and quite honestly they weren’t that interesting and I don’t think I’m any good at it. So, what you’re witnessing may very well be my very last unboxing or it may be my third recorded rehearsal. I’m honestly just not that into it. However...I’m making one last exception here because the care and attention The Pro’s Closet paid to prepping and boxing up this bike kinda knocked me off my feet, so I’m gonna ‘unbox’ this in my own way. I hope it works! Let’s start with the box. As many of you know, I was one of the early employees at a large online bike shop and we pioneered a lot of things - first and foremost, we developed a very efficient methodology around packing and shipping high-dollar bikes. So, I’ve got high standards for ANYTHING that gets shipped to my front door - even the stuff from Amazon. I look at the quality of the box - the thickness of the cardboard, the graphics, the packing material, how it’s arranged - weird, I know, but those small details say a LOT about the company that sent it. And the experience you have when you receive AND open the box can leave you with a lasting impression. And the pro’s closet didn’t disappoint. The box was brand new and undamaged, and when I peeled open the top, I was looking at what I could swear was a factory-built brand new bike. The packing was minimal, but perfect - and very environmentally conscious, as evidenced by the fact that they only used 5 zip ties, which is roughly a third of what I’m used to seeing. What’s even better is that both the rear wheel and handlebars were still attached, which made for an insanely quick assembly. I think i was putting pedals on maybe 10 minutes after I pulled it out of the box. If you watched the first two ‘episodes’ of this series you’ll know that I’ve been on a bit of a journey and that the journey took a bit of a turn in the last video. And I’m glad it did because after riding this aluminum bike with 105 and factory wheels I was reminded that you don’t really need a carbon superbike to have a good time. 1300 bucks will get you a lot of bike and as many smiles and sunsets as bikes costing ten times as much. And, one last point before I go - this exercise also served as a lesson in bike geometry - it’d been a while since I rode a cross-specific bike and I was worried it’d be squirrley as a gravel (or road) bike. Not the case. At all. Honestly, this reminded me that a cross bike with the right wheels and tires is a super stable platform for any kind of riding you may be doing, from day long gravel adventures to saturday morning slug fests. So, if you’re hunting for that ‘one bike’ solution, I’d say start with a cross bike. There are TONS of great deals on pure cross machines at The Pro’s Closet and elsewhere on the secondary market. Thanks for watching, and please let me know your thoughts on unboxings in the comments below? Was this ok? Should I do more? Do you find them interesting, or boring? Like me…allright. See ya next time.

Click here to shop for a new bike at The Pro's Closet! https://pros-closet.sjv.io/EmggP I’ve been getting dropped on dirt roads on my road bike for over 20 years - starting with the brutal Rouge Roubaix in like 1999 or 2000. And just about every ride in my new hometown of Temecula has a dirt climb, segment, or connector. So, the recent surge in mixed terrain riding has been music to my ears. On the flipside, I was a pretty decent mountain bike racer back in the day, but I actually havent updated MY mountain bike in 6 or 7 year so I’m always secretly looking for a good deal in that world, too. When I was working on the budget bike piece, I have to admit I saw a LOT of listings on ebay from The Pro’s closet and ended up clicking through to their website and shopping for HOURS. And, full disclosure: when I started this channel they were on my radar as a company I wanted to work with in some way. So when I approached them with this idea they liked it, and were kind enough to give me a $2000 allowance to spend on a bike that I’ll be unboxing and then sending back. And again - my gut tells me that a lot of you are still riding mostly solo so you might be on the hunt for a gravel or adventure or mountain bike, so let’s see what they’ve got! OK, so let’s head over to The..Pros...closet..dotcom...aaannnddd hey, look at that - they read my mind - there’s a section for gravel bikes so let’s go to there….nice selection...wow, really nice actually...if I was a foot taller and had another grand I’d snag this topstone! Wow….seriously good selection here…but I’ve only got two grand for everything including shipping and tax, so let’s filter the results - low to high...there we go….hmmm….nice ridley, but still too much, this bombtrack looks cool, but too small, so let’s scroll back up...and...BINGO. Right here - this TCX is perfect for a couple of reasons: I’ve been wanting to compare entry level aluminum to a carbon bike, and it has ULTEGRA 11….so let’s check out the photos (count to 10) a little scuff on the seat tube, but no biggie. Ooooooh, and the cranks are my size! 175’s! Ok.This is what I’m looking for. I wonder if I can sneak in a little wheel upgrade? Lets see. Do a little sorting...these are cool, but too much money….these zipps would be rad, but still too much...keep looking...hang on! Woah...scroll back - are those? Well I’ll be - a set of PSIMets! Holy cow - these are probably the most well-built and underrated wheels on earth. How do I know that? Well, because when I lived in chicago I met the founder, Rob Curtis. He’s a FIXTURE on the Chicago Cyclocross circuit and his wheels are EVERYWHERE in those races. Hit this link to check them out - Rob’s a lifelong cyclist and a mechanical engineer, and if you EVER come across a set - buy them IMMEDIATELY. Which is what I’m gonna do right...now. And let’s put the giant in the cart, too. Let’s see..how much? 1770? Boom! Shippng is free, and taxes will be around $130. Allright, thanks for shopping with me - the bike’s ordered and on the way, and when it gets here we’ll have some fun unboxing and riding it. I’m also gonna throw my ENVEs and Zipps on it to see how it feels with a set of high zoot wheels. I’ll try to get part 3 up in a week or two, so please like this video and hit the subscribe button to be notified when it’s done. Oh, and if there’s anything else you’d like to know about my Pros Closet experience, please ask in the comments. OK, see you next time!

A long time ago, a little marine supply company out of Florida sent me a pair of their racks to try out. Ten years later, I’m still using them both - and won’t ever buy anything else. By now, you’ve undoubtedly heard about SeaSucker and their revolutionary approach to bike transport - I mean, in the ten plus years since they were founded they’ve gone from relative obscurity to being on top of every team car on the UCI tour at a handful of events. They make racks that can hold up to NINE bikes for the pros, but the commercially available versions can hold up to 3. If you HAVENT heard about SeaSucker, here’s the TLDR: they invented these giant suction cup thingys with vacuum pumps to hold fishing rods, and since the founder is also a cyclist, he realized the cups could also be used as the basis for bike racks. Quite obviously, this means the racks are universal right out of the box - you don’t have to buy a new set of clips or a certain type of riser or bar to make it compatible with your vehicle. And of course the soft rubber cups won’t damage your vehicles finish. My personal racks are the Talon and the Hornet, and I primarily use the Talon - with the thru-axle adapter - for both my road and mountain bikes. I’ve actually got the adapter installed in tandem with the QR mount for convenience and I keep the Hornet - SeaSucker’s most compact rack - in my wife’s trunk, just in case she ever has to come bail me out - Ive also traveled with it on a few occasions because it’s super easy to set up on a rental car. The frame of the talon is made from Uber tough High Density Poly Etheline, and the rack has about a 15 by 13 inch footprint - which means its also small enough to travel, if needed. But here’s the cool part: the combined suction of the three cups gives the Talon a TWO HUNDRED TEN POUND pull strength rating. That means it ain’t coming off, no matter how hard you drive through the corners or how fast you go - as proven by their ‘racetrack’ testing on cars going in excess of 140mph. Installation is as easy as it looks, and In the ten years I’ve had them, I’ve used both racks on multiple vehicles and on trips ranging from 15 minutes on up to 15 hours and they’ve never failed me. You can also mount the rack just about anywhere, but I’d advise having as many cups on GLASS as possible - either at the windshield or the rear window. That’ll increase the level of suction when compared to a painted surface, but in a pinch you could even throw it sideways on the trunk. The only drawback, if there is one, is that the cups and pumps will definitely need to be replaced from time to time because rubber tends to degrade even if you take really good care of it. But, and here’s where SeaSucker really wins: every single replacement part, down to the screws, is available for a REASONABLE price on their website. For example, a suction cup is $14 and a pump is $12. And I love that - it’s like the old Campagnolo ‘rebuildable’ mentality - sure, it may seem expensive up front, but because it’s 100% serviceable with AFFORDABLE replacement parts, SeaSucker rack will be with you for a long time. Thanks for watching, and if you have any questions about SeaSucker racks please drop them in the comments below - and don’t forget to subscribe so you can be notified when I post a new video. OK, see ya next time!

Yes, you can. And it’ll be just as fast as your flashy new one. If you’re like me, and I know you are, you probably scroll through used gear ebay and facebook marketplace with the same ferocity that some people scroll through pictures of food on instagram. There’s TONS of killer used gear out there, so I’m gonna show you how I built MY latest super-ish bike for UNDER TWO THOUSAND DOLLARS. OK, here we go Right now, it’s April, 2020. If you’re watching this in the future, I hope the news is much different than it is today…I’m doing my best to take the coronavirus numbers in stride, and I’m praying every day that TOMORROW we’ll see the tipping point and everything will get back to normal. As a content creator, this definitely made me think about what’s relevant - and I just don’t feel like an over the top review of a twelve-thousand dollar carbon superbike is what you want to hear right now. I mean, it’d be a welcome distraction but if you’re like me you’re probably hunkered down in more ways than one and that’s just not on the menu today. But we still want the superbike, don’t we?? Yeah. So in light of that, I’m gonna show you how I built MY latest super-ish bike for UNDER TWO THOUSAND DOLLARS. OK, here we go. So, why am i REALLY doing this video? Well, because I’ve been asked to put together a killer bike on a budget no less than 1000 times in the past 10 years and i thought it’d be helpful to throw together a quick guide to help you out. In my estimation, a super bike is a sexy, stare-worthy sub 16 pound road bike you wouldn’t hesitate to grab for your hardest and fastest days...and here’s my latest project. Under the camo green spray paint there’s a Cannondale Super Six from 2011. I used SRAM Rival One-by, SRAM Red calipers, a SRAM Force crank, and a Zipp bar and stem I had lying around. I stumbled upon the Mavic Cosmic Carbone Ultimates for SIX HUNDRED DOLLARS WITH BRAND NEW TIRES. Talk about your barn finds! I’ve quite literally stalked this very wheel set for going on ten years, and I promise - they do NOT disappoint -- and they also inspired the frame color. Street value on the frame (which I sanded and spray-painted myself) is about $500, and the RIVAL shifters and RD are around $400 all-in. That brings us to about $1500 and you can find Force cranks under $100 on ebay all day long. So, $1600 total. The narrow-wide 46t chainring is an asian market one-off from ebay, and I already had the 11/32 cassette - which is like fifty bucks brand new. The bar and stem are kinda industry discount outliers in my case, but with the $400 you have left you could almost buy a brand new carbon bar and stem or pick any aluminum bar and stem up for a fraction of that cost. Lastly, I’m not counting pedals in the budget - you’ve already got those and because this is an exercise in being cheap you can spend ten bucks on a pedal wrench instead. Now, if you want to try this approach yourself let’s start with the gruppo and just concede that Shimano Ultegra 8000 Mechanical is dollar for dollar the best group on the planet, and snatch this one for $699. 105 and Rival are OK, but not superbike worthy IMO unless you mix it up with force and Red like i did. Another great option is Ultegra Di2 6770 - I found a handful of mini groups for 5-600 and you can snag a newer 8000-series crank for another $200. So, roughly the same price, if you’re patient. Next up: wheels. Seems like 600 bucks can get you just about anything you want in a racing tubular in like...new...barely ridden condition- zipp 404’s are a standout because they’re just the best all-around wheel I’ve ever owned - and I’ve had two sets of the toroidal version with the 88/188 hubs. They’re bullet proof. But if you’d prefer clinchers, then there’s plenty of Reynolds Strikes, Assaults, and I even came across a set of higher end Reynolds 58’s for $585 - and the 58’s are every bit as good as 404’s. For the frame here’s what I’d suggest: set a target of $800, and search for Cannondale SuperSix, Specialized Tarmac, Ridley Excaliber, or Cervelo R3. If you want aluminum, then the Cannondale CAAD 10 or the Specialized Allez are every bit as good as their carbon cousins. A quick ebay or facebook marketplace search should yeild PLENTY of results, and if they don’t then I guarantee you’re less than 30 days of...um…”stalking” away from the frame you want. Be patient. It’ll surface. Until then, I hope this is a helpful starting point. Do me a favor, and drop me a note with your ebay barn finds in the comments below! I’d love to hear what you’ve found! OK, until next time..

Saris provided the H3 at no charge for this review, and I was not paid for my opinion. Please support my channel and click the affiliate link below to buy the Saris H3 Smart Trainer! https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/6Ob1b And at 59db at 20mph, it’s FIVE TIMES quieter than previous generations. In practical terms, that means you can actually binge watch something on your TV at nearly normal living room volumes. Physical set up is incredibly easy because the support legs fold out, and the front wheel block - which stores away nicely - is super minimal. Connecting to my training app of choice was just as easy - the H3 was easily identified and paired within seconds, regardless of the platform. This was my first experience with a direct drive trainer, and I have to say it’s simply the way to go. Traditional trainers are really cumbersome and clumsy and regardless of how clever the rear wheel mount was it was always a grind to get them set up perfectly: I was constantly micro adjusting the tension on either the skewer clamp or the roller, and I’m pretty sure I never had a front wheel block that was exactly the same height as the rear. But with the H3, it’s all aligned, it’s all the same height, and once you get the cassette on, perfect setup is as easy as installing a new rear wheel. And once you get there, it’s ROCK SOLID - no twisting, torquing or rattling. Just quiet, smooth operation that makes riding inside far more than just tolerable: truth be told, I found myself actually looking forward to my virtual rides around the Laguna Seca track or up L’Alpe Duez. Now, before I go - Saris called me just before I filmed this review to let me know they’re going to send me the MP1 NFINITY Platform to try out. That was welcome news because one of the major cons of indoor riding is that the limited range of motion can lead to increased pressure and hot spots - so, I’m excited to see how the MP1 fits into this new world I’ve discovered. I’ll post that video once I have a few test rides in, so please hit the subscribe button to be notified when it drops. In the meantime, thanks for watching and whether you’re just riding along or going racing, I hope it’s a good one.

Yes, it's true: I've been tricked into yet another unboxing video. This one's really cool, though: the Saris H3 trainer - fully compatible with Zwift right out of the box.

Well, it had to happen sooner or later...Andy gets talked into something new: Unboxing! Come along and see what surprises are in store

I was not paid for this review, and I used gear I already owned to make the comparison. However, if you'd like to support my channel via the Competitive Cyclist Affiliate program then please click here to shop for ENVE and Zipp wheels! https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/c/2360598/370726/5416 When you think about carbon wheels, two names come to mind. I’ve spent the better part of the last 15 years on one or the other, and I’m gonna share my experience with you. OK, here we go. There may be other carbon wheel companies in the world, but few have the quality and reputation of ENVE and Zipp. The first set I owned from either brand was the aluminum-rimmed Zipp 404 clincher. Zipp sent them to me as a long-term tester with the intent that I’d beat them to death for a year. I did. And when I sent them back a year later they were as round and true as the day I got them. Since then I’ve owned basically everything they make - 202, 303, 404 pre and post firecrest, and in both tubular and clincher. I actually JUST sold a set of 2011 vintage 404 tubulars, which I still rode 2-3 times a week but my current set is the 303 disc firecrest tubeless. My first pair of ENVEs came a little later, in the summer of 2015. They were a set of three four SES clinchers on DT hubs, and then I had two sets of four fives SES’s on DT’s and I’m on my second set of four five AR SES disc wheels - this time with King hubs. Being fully transparent, the reason I made the big shift is something that’s going to be a recurring theme here - I’m cheap, and my pricing on ENVE wheels blew Zipp out of the water. But, I’ll come back to that. So, let’s start with what I really like about Zipp. First and foremost, they’re basically indestructible. I’ve hit foot-deep potholes dead-on, and was thrashing them around on ‘gravel’ rides YEARS before gravel rides were a thing. Second, they ride like a real bike wheel - they’re not unduly harsh or unforgiving and they spin up and hold speed insanely well. Third, I’ve toured their Indianapolis factory, and seen first hand how they build and test their rims. The word painstaking doesn’t even do it justice - the amount of time...and care...they put into each wheel - as they build it by hand - is mindblowing. And aside from the asian sourced carbon, EVERYTHING from the molds to the hubs, is manufactured right here in the USA. The same is true of ENVE - they’re an all american company hand-molding and building these rims and wheels one at a time in Utah. The technology is a bit different...for example the MOLD their spoke holes rather than drilling them and you won’t find any golf ball like dimples on the rims. ENVE also has a slight egde in the market because they’ve embraced wider rims that accommodate a broader range of tires. So, for example a 28c tire on the 303’s still meausres 28 when inflated, but when you install a 30 on the ENVES it actually balloons to just under 33. So after all that - why have I landed on THESE two wheelsets? Well, that’s a good question. Honestly, I think the 303 in any permutation or vintage is the hands-down gold standard for an all-around road wheel and I’ll always own a pair, period. They’re just that good. The 303’s shallow enough to remain light, but at 45mm still deep enough to be VERY aerodynamic. Now if you were paying attention, you would have noticed my emphasis on ROAD wheel when I described the 303’s. That brings me to the ENVES - my four-fives are 49mm front and 55mm rear, so definitley deeper - on par with the 58mm 404’s but not quiiiiite as deep. From an aerodynamics perspective they split the difference nicely and they’re optimized for front versus rear wheel drag. But here’s where they start to stand out: My King hubbed version is almost 100 grams lighter - and because the rims are wider these wheels have a bigger useable range. I can do every thing from a hardcore group ride with 80 PSI on down to an all day mixed terrain slog like BWR at 50-60 PSI and keep them on the same bike - My R5. They climb and hold speed just like the 303’s, And I really like the fact that I can completely alter the ride quality of my bike with a floor pump. I don’t ride solely on the road anymore, and just about EVERY ride I do these days has a dirt road in it somewhere. Which leads me to ENVE’s true secret weapon: Lifetime Incident Protection. If you sustain virtually ANY damage aside from normal wear and tear and long as you’re the original owner of the wheels, ENVE will replace the wheels at no charge - excluding shipping, parts, and labor. At the end of the day, they’re both great choices. But if you find yourself veering into the dirt more and more, and you want to ride them to the limit - ENVE’s AR range kinda pulls away from Zipp.

Real, honest, straightforward reviews from your old friend Andy Clark

Pinarello supplied the AXS demo bike for a few weeks, and I was not paid for my opinion. Please support my channel and click the affiliate link below to buy SRAM AXS! https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/c/2360598/370726/5416 Today on real reviews I’m going to give you 5 reasons why I AM putting SRAM Red AXS on my next bike, and 5 reasons why I’m NOT - And I’m gonna try to do it in TWO MINUTES OR LESS. OK. Here we go! Before we get started a quick disclaimer: This is the VERY FIRST upload to my new channel, so I thought I’d do something a little different. If you’ve watched any of my old reviews, you probably came away saying something like “I wonder what they’re paying him to say that” or “nice sales pitch, Andy.” And, you know, you wouldn’t be too far off base - all of my reviews were PAID reviews. So to some degree, my opinions had to kinda stay between the guardrails. Not anymore. My goal with this channel is to give you my REAL review - the good and bad - so that you can make a more informed buying decision. Having said that, let’s put 2 minutes on the clock and get started with 5 reasons I’d build my next bike with SRAM Red AXS. 1 The shifting is smooth and crisp, and the gearing ratio on the 46/33 with a 10/33 is as close to perfect as I’ve ridden. The gaps between gears are ideal, and you can also use the smartphone app to set up flawless auto shifting between the chainrings. In the age of internal routing, wireless derailleurs are everything 2. I’m loyal to SRAM. 3. After ten years and probably a hundred thousand miles on everything from Rival to force to red to etap, it’s never failed me. And I’m rough on gear 4. SRAM is an American company that cares - They employ several thousand people here in the states, and through their charity World Bicycle Relief they’ve delivered millions of specially designed, locally assembled, rugged bicycles for people in need all over the world 5. I’m cheap and they make a Force version that’s damn near just as good as Red Now...as promised: here’s 5 reasons why I WOULDN’T build my next bike with SRAM Red AXS - plus one BONUS reason at the end. 1. Before I was a SRAM Guy, I was SHIMANO guy.Two years ago I want back and Shimano Dura Ace mechanical disc is tough to beat. 2. The shifting is quicker, quiter, and smoother 3. The brakes are benchmarks for power, modulation, overall feel and noise 4. It’s 12 speed and I’ve got too much 11 speed lying around 5. The price. 6. The silver chainrings 7. They make a Force version that’s damn near just as good. (time check - did we make it??) Listen, AXS is in every way a top-flight, pro-caliber group from probably my favorite bike company on the planet...and I’m thrilled that SRAM instantly trickled the tech down into their other gruppos. You REALLY can’t go wrong with anything in the eTap line - even the first generation 11speed version is insanely good and I can’t wait to see what they come up with next but at the moment I’m just not ready to make the jump to 12 speed, or away from Shimano. Thanks for watching! Before you go, please hit the subscribe button and hit me with your questions about SRAM AXS in the comments below. See ya next time.

I'm barely getting started, and already I've got competition!

The day has finally come - after 11 glorious years as the face of Competitive Cyclist, I'm striking out on my own. Hit the subscribe button to come along for the ride!

You didn't realize this was a cooking show, did ya? Yep. Like most of you, when I'm not riding I'm eating and this baked oatmeal recipe is one of my favorites. Ingredients: 6 cups oats, fast or whole 4 eggs 4 tbs baking powder 2 cups milk (dairy, almond, etc) 1 cup olive oil PRO TIP: leave out the baking soda and add a cup of peanut butter if you want DIY energy bars!