thattimeigotdropped

1987. I was a sophomore in high school, and by that time I’d been riding road bikes seriously for about a year. I had a tri-color steel Schwinn Tempo with either 6 or 7 speed Shimano 105, and I’d just installed my first set of clipless pedals, a pair of Time Sports. At that time, clipless technology was BRAND NEW, like less than a year old, so you might say I was a bit of an early adopter Alll these years later, the Time brand holds a special place in my heart because these pedals were the first “upgrade” I ever made…to…any bicycle. As a result of my affinity to the brand, I always enjoyed watching the greats like Bettini and Boonen slay the field on their Time frames and when I got my first ‘real’ road bike around 1997 - a Team Saeco Cannondale CAAD4 - I was thrilled to see that the Coda branded carbon fork was manufactured by none other than…you guessed it…TIME. And then, out of the clear blue sky in 2020, THE GUY WHO SOLD ME THOSE PEDALS in 87 TOLD ME HE JUST BOUGHT TIME BICYCLES. No joke. I can’t make this up. Not long after that he invited me to be a brand ambassador, and sent me a frame - this bright red beauty, my Alpe D’Huez 01. I’ve been riding it for almost a year now, and I’ve even loaned it out to a few buddies - and we all agree: it’s one of the most well-refined road bikes we’ve ever ridden. And the reason is simple: Time owns literally every step of the manufacturing process from thread to frame. Here’s what I mean: Time is the only brand outside of Asia that owns both the Braided Carbon Structure and Resin Transfer Moulding processes. This allows TIME to control every individual strand of carbon used in the construction of a frame. They’ve been doing this for close to 40 years and as a result they’ve elevated the standard in creating carbon fibre to match the level you find in a Formula One car There are two key acronyms to remember here: BCS and RTM. BCS stands for Braided Carbon Structure and is Time’s process of weaving braids of fibres into complex bi-directional textiles of fabric. And since they’re weaving the fabric before it’s impregnated with resin they’re able to tune it with different materials – TIME currently choses from 16 filaments to perfectly tailor the carbon layups. The important thing to remember is that this process allows something that is unheard of in the cycling world; continuous, unbroken fibres that run the full length of a tube or structure. And when the fabric is ready to move to production, Time employs Resin Transfer Molding (RTM) to minimize defects in the composite structure. By injecting resin under high pressure between rigid external and internal molds, air pockets are pushed out and voids between layers are eliminated. That means the resin can only flow where the precise moulds allow and only assume shapes that are intended, meaning RTM quality is extremely high-tolerance, uniform, and consistent yields a beautiful finished product. I’ve seen just about every frame under the sun cut in half, and Time is the only one that looks as beautifully finished on the inside as it does on the outside. All of this fine tuning translates into a ride quality that can best be described as Refined Responsiveness. Tons of frames have one or the other, or a mix of both but typically when you tip the scales in favor of responsiveness (and stiffness and low weight) you lose REFINEMENT (which includes things like ride quality, compliance, handling, and comfort). A bike like a Pinarello Dogma is all responsiveness, and very little refinement - unless you let some air out of the tires. By contrast, the pegoretti marcelo is certainly responsive, but mostly refined. The Alpe DHuez is the first bike I’ve owned in a long time that creates an almost perfect balance between the two. It corners and descends like the Dogma, and screams uphill like my old Cervelo R5. But when things slow down or it gets bumpy, the bike isn’t harsh and unmanageable making it really easy to stretch my rides out past 4 and 5 hours. And because it’s tuned for refinement it’s also super versatile: I ran it with 30c tires and my shockstop suspension stem for BWR, and loaned it to my buddy with the same setup for our annual gravel ‘training camp’ here in Temecula: 4 days, 250 miles, and 25000 feet of climbing with a 70/30 mix of road to gravel. Side note: don’t run 30’s with this frame unless you don’t mind scraping off some paint. 28’s are really about as big as you need to go, and if you need something bigger - the new ADHX uses all the same tech with all road geometry and clearance for 38’s. So, it’s obvious that I really like this bike but to prove it I want to cite one thing - and it’s kind of a big deal: after 6 months of owning the Alpe Dhuez, I sold my beloved limited edition R5, which is a bike I swore I’d keep forever. Nothing I rode ever came close to the R5, but I knew after one ride on the time that the R5’s days were numbered

So, my friends at POC started sending me sunglasses and helmets to evaluate about a year ago, and they JUST sent me another round of gear to test. There was a pair of the new DEVOURs in the box, so I thought this would be a good time for a run-through of everything they’ve sent me...Allright, so what I have in front of me is the REQUIRE in tortoise with a silver mirror clarity lens, the DEFINE with a slightly lighter MTB Silver Mirror... and then the AIM, the DO Blade, and new Devour all with multiple POC Clarity lenses in different shades. I’ve had the DEFINE’s for quite a while, and just got the REQUIRE’s. POC calls these “lifestyle” sunglasses, and the implication is that they’re more designed for wearing casually, but I find this segment of POC’s lineup to be the most versatile: they can be both your daily driver off the bike and a stylish alternative to sort of ‘single purpose’ performance glasses like the AIM when you’re ON the bike. Not everyone wants that big wraparound look, and you can get the same durability, fit, construction, lens quality, and integration with your helmet in a single pair of glasses. And at like over 200 bucks per pop, that’s a huge benefit. Before we zero in on the AIM, DO Blade, and DEVOUR let’s talk about the Zeiss CLARITY lenses that you’ll find on all of POC’s glasses. When it comes to lenses, other manufacturers tend to start with the “what” rather than the “why” when it comes to shades and gradients. What I mean is POC is a ‘safety first’ company - it’s their north star, and as I’ve said before: the ethos of PROTECTION permeates everything they do. This quote from their site says it better than I can: “we wanted to push the boundaries of science and innovation and develop unique and enhanced vision technology to give riders the precise levels of light and contrast exactly when they need it….because being able to react a millisecond quicker can often be the difference in a winning run and being able to avoid an accident.” (Crop and insert photos of the PDF here) And here’s what that looks like: They partnered with Zeiss, the global leader in optical perfection, and produced lenses that are graded from cloudy to partly cloudy to sunny, and have varying levels of contrast. Some are optimized for the colors of the trail and some are optimized for the colors of the road - it’s almost like applying brightness and contrast to an instagram photo - but the end result is that it makes it easier to see every detail. I have every color you see in the ‘road’ rainbow for my AIMs, Devours, and DO Blades, and my DEFINEs have the Clarity Trail Light Silver and since I’ve got just about every brand under the sun (pun intended) can testify that this is no BS - when compared with my Oakleys, 100%’s, and Smiths, the clarity and contrast is better by a noticeable margin. But the style? Well, that’s decades ahead. Most other brands seem to be stuck in some kind of ricky bobby eastbound and down loop, but not POC. They just...look...cool. And, I’m not sorry that that’s important to me. With the AIM you get a big, but not gigantic, mostly frameless wraparound setup that’s light as a feather and integrates well with just about any helmet. Same goes for the DO Blade - but it’s framed at the bottom which limits the range of vision a little. They’re also slightly heavier than the AIMs but work better if you wear a cap under your helmet. The DEVOUR is a totally different beast. They’re YUGE with a Y, but they don’t look goofy or like they’re trying too hard. They’re literally as big as a pair of goggles, but with a sunglasses frame and more traditional temple pieces. I’ve only got a few rides under my belt with them, so tune in for a more detailed review in a month or so. First impressions, though, are pretty solid. Mostly because I suffer from very dry eyes, AND live in a very dry climate - so these help keep that at bay much better than smaller glasses. But, that kinda begs the question: which one is my favorite? What’s my go-to? Honestly the DEFINE lenses and frames are a bit too light and transparent, so the REQUIRE with the darker frame and lens combo is my daily driver OFF the bike, but surprisingly it’s the DO blade that i find myself reaching for most often. They fit my face perfectly, and since i always wear a cycling cap under my helmet to absorb sweat, the low profile tucks up under the bill better than the AIM or the Devour. I also prefer the straight temple pieces to the more traditional L-shaped ones on the DEVOUR because they play nice with my helmet straps and have a smaller contact patch with my head. And I usually leave one of the rose-colored, silver mirror lenses in because they’re perfect for just about any light condition, even riding at dusk and dawn. Overall, you can’t really go wrong with POC eyewear - they have a broad selection, so you can definitely find a style or two that fits.

ICYMI two things are going on right now: (1) Gravel riding has exploded, and (2) nobody has any gravel bikes for you to buy. But if you’ve already got a road bike with generous tire clearance and disc brakes - I may just have a solution for you: the Redshift Shockstop Suspension stem At first glance, this thing may seem a bit gimmicky - almost like too simple to really work well. It’s one of the most “why didn’t I think of that” ideas I’ve seen since EARLY versions of suspension stems way back in the mid 90’s. For the record, I had Allsopp’s version on my Bridgestone MB1, and I LOVED IT. And a few years later I proudly rocked the Cane Creek Thudbuster for MANY years so I kinda came into this knowing the idea was pretty legit and I had super high hopes that the guys at Redshift had pulled it off. And I’m happy to say they did. So let’s back up and talk about how they did it for a second. In the 30 years since those early designs, suspension (and what we know about it) has come a long looooong way. One important lesson is that a suspension stem doesn’t need a lot of travel to be effective - 20mm is enough. And the ShockStop also utilizes modern best-practices for suspension pivot design, including the same fully-sealed cartridge bearings that are used in high-end full-suspension mountain bikes. So there’s No slop, no play, AND no maintenance. And because the travel is minimal, and the pivots are perfect - the design can be too. Redshift placed the adjustable elastomers inside the stem, out of sight, which makes it indescernable from a regular stem at a distance. If you’ve seen feedback from other reviewers you already know this thing is nearly flawless. My first install was on the gravel bike, and it couuldn’t have come at a better time because I was having a bit of a problem with a really stiff fork. The front end was punishing me on descents, and I needed something to soften things up - and after a few test rides with different elastomer combos I’m never taking it off. 20mm is just enough to take the edge off washboards and trails that are littered with horse or cow tracks and when you’re blasting across the flats or downhill at speed, you get a nice level of cush that helps smooth out even higher amplitude bumps. But suspension - and good suspension - isn’t JUST about eliminating bumps - it’s also about improving handling and reducing fatigue without sacrificing efficiency. You’re handling will improve because you get JUST enough spring to keep your front tire in contact with the road or trail in a choppy corner, and on the efficiency front: as long as you get the elastomer setup right it doesn’t bounce up and down like a pogo stick when you’re out of the saddle. In fact, I hardly notice it’s there when I’m standing up and yanking on the bars. And of course, like any good suspension, it dramatically reduces the amplitude of any bump you hit - which makes it easier to ride for much longer periods without feeling like you’re holding onto a jackhammer. And that brings me back to my original point - I was lucky enough to snag a gravel ride before COVID hit, but a lot of you weren’t. So, I tried the shockstop on my R5 and basically transformed it from a light duty dirt road bike to a medium duty gravel bike. If you’re wanting to tackle tougher routes on your road bike but just need a LITTLE something extra up front, this is the ticket. I just checked their site and stock levels appear good, which means you can expand your riding options for less than the cost of a pair of decent bib shorts. In other words, if you’ve been on the fence about a Shockstop stem - it’s time to grab one because all the rave reviews you hear are true and I might just get myself one of their seatposts too.

Here it is! The long-awaited sequel to one of my most popular reviews. Here's the link affiliate I mentioned: https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/JrL4R2 SRAM was nice enough to send me this group right before all hell broke loose in 2020, but this is not a sponsored review. This is my honest take on what I thought was one of the best values to hit the market in a long time. And If you’re wondering what took so long, it’s this: I didn’t want to give you the typical marketing-speak fresh-out-of-the-box commercial...no, no...I wanted to see how Force AXS performed over time. I wanted to try to break it. I wanted to neglect it and see if SOMETHING went sideways in the middle of an all day epic. Well, I’ve kicked its butt for almost a year...it’s been on a gravel bike and a road bike, my conclusion is this: it’s probably the most dependable and worry free kit I’ve ever used. The Levers are substantial without being bulky, and to my hands the controls feel identical to both the first generation of eTap and the current generation of Red AXS. The hood shape feels bigger and more comfortable than my Dura Ace hoods, actually. They’re also super easy to install and sync to the derailleurs and the Bleeding Edge technology makes brake setup equally simple (as long as you have the right tools. I’m still using the original brake pads, but it’s a few rides past time to change them - and I’ve heard the same from other SRAM disc brake users, so my recommendation is to install fresh pads every 6-8 months on a gravel bike and 8-12 on a road bike. And as long as you do that, there’s PLENTY of stopping power and modulation available. Honestly, it’s on par with the Dura Ace 9100 brakes on my Cervelo. Now, the derailleurs - more specifically, the speed of the shifting - is something that a lot of riders and reviewers complain about: everyone says it’s not as fast as Di2. NEWS FLASH: it isn’t, and it doesn’t matter because you’re not egan bernal or chris froome, and you’re not getting dropped on the local climb because your shifting is 50 milliseconds slower than the other guy’s. In the year I’ve had Force AXS, it’s never missed a shift or dropped the chain, or even hesitated slightly to go from cog to cog. And it’s nowhere NEAR as finicky as my Dura Ace derailleurs - which can be terribly frustrating to micro adjust if you’re a DIY mechanic like me. And of course, no review of ANY AXS group would be complete without some commentary on the flat-top chain and the tighter “X-Range” gearing. My gruppo has a 10-36 cassette with 46/33 chainrings and that truly covers all the bases. That’s the same gearing I had on the Red group I reviewed last year, and aside from a few steep off-road climbs, it has every gear I need from 2 to 45 miles per hour and the gaps between gears are mapped out perfectly to keep you from jumping massively from one cadence to another. As for the flat-top chain, it does exactly what it’s supposed to do: shifts smoothly, and operates quietly. I highly recommend using a wet lube, though, as it tends to get noisy when it dries out - but what’s really cool is the amount or type of lubricant has ZERO bearing on the shift quality. Which is nice if you’re riding long, dry, dusty gravel epics. The only thing I can say I’d change is the cassette: it’s a freaking brick. It’s so heavy I’m afraid to put it on a scale or even LOOK at the advertised weight. And, I’m not even a weight weenie. If you’ve got extra budget and it’s available - do yourself a favor and upgrade to the Red version right off the bat. SRAM Force AXS is priced around the same as Shimano GRX Di2 and Ultegra Di2: I found deals on all three from $2300-$2600 - which is around a grand less than Red. And, Force is featured on bikes from all the big brands in the 6-8K range so for me - it’s a no brainer: Buy Force or the Force bike, and spend the grand you saved on a nice wheel upgrade or a smart trainer. Blindfolded, you’ll never know the difference between Red and Force, and it goes toe to to with Shimano’s offerings as well.

This was really supposed to be Episode 1, because Brian McCollough is 100% the inspiration for the entire series. I met him in 2017, and when I saw him outsprint the biggest names in gravel in 2018 I was stoked that such a kind, down to earth guy won my favorite race. The story changed a bit in 2019, and Brian's here to tell us why. i hope you enjoy my chat with the guy who inspired me to create That Time I Got Dropped.

Episode Two of That Time I Got Dropped is about to....um...DROP....so I thought you'd like to have a look behind the scenes from Ep 1 with Leah Thorvilson. She was SUCH a great sport, and I'm glad we're pals, now. I can't wait to ride with her, so then I can be the one who gets DROPPED!

While I was filming the next episode of That Time I Got Dropped with 2018 BWR winner Brian McCollough, I asked him to give me a quick one-shot HOT TAKE on his setup for the 2021 race. Check out his secret weapon for one of the most brutal races in America, and get a sneak peek at the course conditions on Black Mountain!

I finally did it: welcome to the first episode of That Time I Got Dropped!! I went to Little Rock earlier this year, and managed to talk the wonderfully funny Leah Thorvilson into sitting down with me on a rainy Saturday to talk about her journey to winning the inaugural Zwift Academy in 2016. I hope you like it, and that you'll tune in for the next one!

So stoked to announce I'll be an ambassador for TIME BICYCLES for 2021!

I have an unwritten rule for my channel, and it’s this: if you can’t say something nice, don’t say anything at all. This is a no troll zone. Now, I wholeheartedly welcome criticism and opinions, but if it’s not constructive...it’s gonna get deleted. But when it comes to the Cycliq Fly 6, I’m having a hard time following my own rule. These days, every cyclist needs a good tail light and unfortunately - I’m finding that I need to use mine way too much. Ten years ago, I’d only turn on the flashers at night, but today - I won’t leave the house for even a quick lunch loop without one. Drivers have just become too aggressive, too rushed, and way too careless. But I’m still only getting about 3 hours out of the battery, and that’s on the most conservative flash mode, and lowest brightness settings. And that’s problem #1: I want to flash this sucker on the highest setting with the most frequency for the entirety of my ride - be it 2 hours or 6. And that’s just not possible. And, if I AM going on a 6 hour ride there’s no way to conserve enough of this light for the whole thing, so I end up in a scenario where I’m turning it on...and off...and on….and off...that is IF I remember to turn it on and off...which I usually don’t. And as luck would have it - I usually get brushed by a car when i accidentally leave it OFF, ORRRR when I’m swerving after reaching back to turn it on or off (because it takes finding and holding the vague, rubbery button down for a few seconds) So that scenario leads me into a deep dive with the app, which was hooorrrriiibly slow before the latest software update. So slow that it sparked this review. I’m happy to say, however, that it’s running at a good speed now - and making changes to the settings is a much quicker process than before. So that’s a good thing. And, the Fly 6 takes great video but guess what? In order to get the most out of the battery you have to go back into the app and throttle the video quality down to 720. It’s still good enough to get a license plate, but only if the car has one installed up front - and that’s not a law in every state. Compounding that problem is the pragmatic talk I had with my buddy who’s a state trooper: he said that even WITH video footage AND the license number in a hit and run, the owner of the car can claim he wasn’t driving it if your video footage is low res. And if you’ve set your cycliq up for long battery life, well then you get - at best - a grainy image of the guy behind the wheel. Yes, you can dial the video quality back up to 1080p at 60 fps, but even then it’s a crapshoot to get a good image of the driver’s face because of the distance and the resolution. So...getting the most out of this thing is kind of a game of whackamole and I’m just not sure dropping over TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS on a tail light with a camera and smartphone connectivity is really worth it. Now, having said all that - I started this review by saying the only good criticism is CONSTRUCTIVE criticism. The problem is...everything I would suggest to improve it would kill the battery life. For example: I think it needs 4k video, and I need to be able to run it for 4-6 hours on low-flash mode, which means a bigger battery and likely more cost. Which brings me to the price: you can get brighter tail lights for one-tenth the cost of a Cycliq. I mean, I TOTALLY see the value in this product if you’re a daily commuter who rides in urban bike lanes during morning and afternoon rush hours, but if you’re a racer, club rider, group rider or whatever I think you’re better of spending twenny bucks on a cheap flasher and doing your best to either TAKE THE LANE or stay off roads you KNOW are dangerous. I’ll end by saying this: I know first hand that designing a product is a VERY hard thing to do. You can’t please everybody (especially me), and when it comes to engineering a complex multi-device product that’s also compact and weatherproof, you just can’t have 100% of everything you want. I know that. And honestly I think the Cycliq is a solid execution of a brilliant idea, but unfortunately the design team was hamstrung by current battery and camera technology. If they could pull off something similar for under a hundred bucks, they’d have a much more compelling product.

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I'm thrilled to announce I've been invited to contribute to @Phil Gaimon 's new channel, @Preem TV Here's a sneak preview of my series THAT TIME I GOT DROPPED. The first episode will air sometime next month. I got to sit down with the inaugural Zwift Academy winner - fellow Arkansan Leah Thorvilson. Leah has a truly unique 'outsider on the inside' perspective of life in the PRO peloton. Click the link below to check out our site and please consider subscribing to the channel to be notified when this drops. You won't want to miss a second! https://gopreem.com/tv

Click my Competitive Cyclist Affiliate Link to buy the Saris MP1! https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/5XWj3 Riding inside sucks. I hate it. And honestly, nothing really makes it any better for me - not even the almighty Zwift. But, with a global shift INSIDE and a new day job colliding in 2020 I found myself spending more and more time on the H3 that Saris sent me. And when this - the MP1 Nfinity platform - arrived, I was veeerrrry skeptical. But after a few months and a lot of thought - I think it’s a worthy investment. Stick around and I’ll tell ya why. I don’t know about you, but I’ve never been able to ride my trainer for more than 60 minutes - I call it my own personal hour record - because one of two things inevitably happens: 1. I just get bored, even with companions like FulGaz, Zwift, or Netflix and (2) I get uncomfortable. I get hot spots on my feet, there’s sweat-soaked friction on the saddle, and the relatively static arm/hand position usually leads to mild numbness in my palms because I simply can’t move around like I can when I’m outside. And like any rocker panel, the MP1 solves that - whether I’m spinning in zone 2 or pushing it into the red, the platform creates just enough back and forth oscillation to provide a close simulation to riding outside when seated. As I’m sure you’ve heard by now things are a little weird when you stand up because the platform leans against the direction you want to shove the bars but that’s a tough design problem to solve...but...maybe they could slice the future versions in half and allow the front to move independently? Who knows. Crazier things have happened. Overall, it’s enough of a mirror of outdoor riding to keep me pretty comfortable for 90-120 minutes. So, functionally - I’d say mission accomplished. But now let’s talk about the elephant in the room: the price. Just about every reviewer has said it’s too expensive - and I KIND OF agree. Retail is like twelve hundred and shipping can be ANOTHER hundred. And that’s too much - 800-900 would be a home run. But here’s the thing - 2020 and probably 2021 are basically cancelled, so...you’ve got the money for it. Seriously - add up the cost of say...driving to just three races. Let’s say it’s 400 miles round trip - so like a tank of gas for sixty bucks, and I’m gonna throw in a $150 hotel stay. Entry fees are another fifty on top of that. so...$260. Meals for two days are another fifty and let’s say you consume $25 worth of nutrition products like gels and bars. That brings us to $335, but let’s round down to $300. Times three races, that’s 900 and times the whole calendar of racing - you could be up over 3000 for the year or very conservatively at two thousand. And let’s not even go down the path of replacing gear you crash in a crit. And if you live in a place like Chicago, New York, Minnesota, or anywhere that winter weather basically shuts down outdoor cycling for 3-4 months - I don’t see any reason why you WOULDN’T get this whole system - the H3 and the MP1 - if you’ve managed to hold on to your race budget and not blow it on doordash. So, in my opinion, and it took me a while to get here - I think that once you get past the sticker shock and really think it through, there’s actually a LOT of good reasons to think about picking up an MP1.

AND THE WNER IS... This giveaway complies with YouTube's policies listed here: https://www.youtube.com/howyoutubeworks/policies/community-guidelines/ https://support.google.com/youtube/answer/1620498?hl=en Your information will be kept private, but for delivery you will need to share your address with me (and Intelligentsia) via the email mentioned in the video. I will not share, sell, or distribute your private information and neither me nor Intelligentsia are liable YouTube is not a sponsor of this contest you are required to release YouTube, myself, and Intelligentsia Coffee (a division of Peet's) from any liability related to your contest.

click here to buy!! www.tenspeedhero.com If there’s one thing that can make or break a winter ride, it’s your socks. No matter how thick or high-tech your booties or oversocks are, if you don’t have the right layer INSIDE the shoe, you’re done. That’s why my go-to this winter, and every winter, are wool socks from the one and only Tenspeed Hero. OK, so it’s really no secret that wool’s really the best thing to have on your feet when it gets cold. And you probably know that merino wool is always preferable to other types of wool because it’s softer and has better moisture wicking properties. But, maybe you don’t know that you can get varying thicknesses for different seasons, and I’m willing to bet a lot of you don’t know Tenspeed Hero. So, this is less of a sock review and more of an opportunity for me to shine a light on one of the coolest brands you may never have heard of. If you’re a cyclocross fan here in the US, it may be a familiar name as they’ve sponsored multiple national champions and are podium regulars at just about every major race. So, this stuff is worn and tested by the best and in my opinion it’s in a design class all its own. Tenspeed hero also has one of the few remaining written cycling blogs that’s actually worth reading. Do yourself a favor and stop binging netflix for a while so you can binge the features section of their website. After you’re done there, head over to the store and treat yourself to one of their italian made kits. I’ve been wearing my original TSH jersey at least once a week for the past several years, and I feel fast every time I put it on. The sprinkles collection is rad, too, but where they REALLY pull ahead of the pack is in the sock department. I fancy myself a member of the “tall sock tribe’ and as a result I have literally four drawers full of cycling socks that I wear every day, on and off the bike. And, if i’m counting, there’s probably a drawer and a half full of only TSH socks. Their designs are elegant, and the color palette is easy to match to just about anything you buy from their site, or any kit you may already own that needs a little extra POP. The current crop of tenspeedhero All Road and Adventure socks are on the lightweight merino side, which is killer because you can wear them for three seasons and they’re also great as everyday socks. And when they have the seasonal heavier weight socks in stock, buy yourself 3 or 4 pair. I’ve got about twice that and I literally wear them all day every day from November through February, on and off the bike. There’s just no better cold weather accessory than a nice pair of thick merino socks, and I don’t think anyone’s are cooler than TSH.

ORDER YOUR CYCLOSYS HERE! https://turnerbikes.com/collections/cyclosys/products/cyclosys-2-0-frameset For a long time now, carbon fiber has been THE go-to choice for premium frames, regardless of the discipline. But - steel and titanium have been on a comeback trail these past few years, so when my friends at Turner asked me to try their new Titanium All-Road bike I lept at the chance. So let’s take a closer look at the Turner Cyclosys I met Dave Turner about fifteen years ago when he visited Arkansas to ride with me and the crew at competitive cyclist - we were his largest dealer, and just about every single one of us rode and raced on his mountain bikes. Dave TURNER collaborated with Dave WEEGLE on the DW Link rear suspension, which were featured on both Ibis and Turner bikes at the time - it went toe to toe with Santa Cruz’s VPP suspension and I can’t tell you how many Flux’s, 5-Spots, and Sultans I sold in our heyday. My turner of choice was a barbie pink nitrous with full XTR and Mavic Crossmax’s. It was a 26er, but man was it nimble - I had some of my best races on board that thing. Dave Turner is a cyclist who loves riding on dirt roads and he was never happy with out of the box gravel bike offerings. So... he set out to make something that lived up to his standards, but because Turner is still a boutique manufacturer, he simply couldn’t afford a run of a thousand carbon frames built to his spec, so he went with the next best thing - Titanium. And because we live 15 minutes from each other, he showed up at my front door a few months ago with one of the first frames off the line. And I was immediately smitten. The welds are perfect. The geometry is spot-on, and the oversized BB shell means it’s as responsive to pedaling inputs as some of my carbon bikes. It’s also road bike stiff at the front end, and has clearance for up to 2 inch tires on 650 b wheels. My tires of choice are Ultradynamico’s 43’s on 700c ENVE foundation wheels, mostly because everything i ride is pavement or hardpacked jeep trails. The main tubes of the frame are 3/2 titanium, which is slightly heavier but more compliant than the lighter and stiffer 6/4 titanium he used in the head tube. If you don’t know what those numbers mean: they refer to the blend of Titanium and other elements that forge the alloy itself. According to Wikipedia Titanium alloys are alloys that contain a mixture of titanium and other chemical elements. These alloys have very high tensile strength and toughness (even at extreme temperatures). They are light in weight, have extraordinary corrosion resistance and the ability to withstand extreme temperatures. All of which makes it an IDEAL material for bicycles. A titanium frame is a once in a lifetime purchase. It’s literally an heirloom quality material that will look the same until the day you pass it on to your son or daughter because it’s a very tough material. Where a carbon bike might crumple and crack after a hard impact, titanium will hold its ground better than steel. But probably the best thing about titanium is where the ride quality falls on the material spectrum. At one end, you have a heavy, spongy steel frame and at the other’s a full-on carbon race machine like my R5. camped out somewhere in the middle, you’ll find a titanium frame: it manages to be both incredibly responsive and wonderfully compliant at the same time. Ti frames also generally feel very planted and have sure-footed handling in just about every situation. And in the case of the Ticlosys that’s no different. Dave likes to call this one ‘the mountain biker’s road bike” but to be honest it’s a beast of a road bike all on it’s own and I was blown away at how well it pounds out the miles and grinds uphill. It definitely likes being off-road better, and since it can accommodate both 700 and 650 wheels it’s quite a versatile little scoot. You also get rackmounts, a third water bottle mount, and bolts for a top tube mounted bag, so if you’re looking for what I’d call a ‘high performance bikepacker’ then this is it )to prove that point, Dave loaded his up and rode all the way to Tahoe from where we live in SoCal). And if cyclocross ever comes back, I wouldn’t hesitate to strip it down, throw on some tubulars, and lift this one over the barriers for an hour. At the end of the day, though, man... this bike is really rad. It’s the most stare-worthy bike I’ve built in a while and with the right setup it can do EVERYTHING short of technical singletrack and bike park downhill runs - neither of which I really do, so the Cyclosys checks a lot of boxes for me.. I’ve only owned one other Ti bike, and it was a merlin extralight mountain bike that to THIS DAY i regret selling. I don’t regret much, but letting that one slip away was a big mistake. It was a magical bike, and the Cyclosis has a lot of that magic too.

This giveaway complies with YouTube's policies listed here: https://www.youtube.com/howyoutubeworks/policies/community-guidelines/ https://support.google.com/youtube/answer/1620498?hl=en That's right - I'm giving away a 12oz bag of Intelligentsia Black Cat Espresso every month until July. Just comment below to enter and I'll use a handy-dandy 'comment picker' to choose a winner at random next week! I’m pretty sure coffee and cycling are siamese twins that were surgically separated at birth. There’s nothing better than a mid-ride espresso stop, and I think I’ve only met ONE cyclist in my life who doesn’t love it as much as I do. Anyway...a few years back, I was an account manager at Magento and my boss said - hey, I think you should manage Intelligentsia in Chicago...the director of ecommerce is a cyclist and you guys would probably hit it off. She was right, and we did. We were literally texting each other bike pics halfway through the intro call. We got to ride together at a few trade shows, and he was kind enough to loan me his Ritte for the Turin ride when I was in Chicago...Intelligentsia is also the title sponsor for a HUGE week of cycling in Chicagoland. Needless to say, Intelligentsia is my go-to for fresh roasted beans - and as an added bonus, they have a roastery in LA, which means UPS gets it here one r two days after it’s roasted. When I launched this channel, my buddy at Intelligentsia shot me a note and asked how they could help, and this is where we’re starting: I’m gonna give you my take on the Aeropress and since 2020 has been a tough year they’re going to sponsor a monthly giveaway of a free bag of Black Cat Espresso - the blend that put them on the map. I’ll get to that later, so stick around. Let’s talk about the Aeropress first. If you’ve never seen one before, it’s basically a new take on the traditional french press, but instead of using a metal press that pushes the grounds through the water it uses an air gap to push water through the grounds and gives you a smooth flavor with very low acid in under a minute. A traditional french press can over-extract from the grounds and cause bitterness. It’s also really messy. The same is true for a drip-coffeemaker - you can’t control the water temp, and they typically under or over extract which means weak or bitter coffee. And let’s not even GO down the rabbit holes of pod brewers, espresso machines, chemexes, and pour overs. I mean, if you’re super invested in your coffee ritual then sure - I guess those all make a decent cup - and to be frank I alternate between my Breville and the Aeropress - but even that took several months to dial in a cup that was as consistent as the aeropress. As long as I follow the SUPER simple directions and get the water temperature right - it’s really easy (and fast) to brew. And that’s where the Aeropress and bikes REALLY intersect. Here’s what I mean: no matter where i go, I HAVE GOT TO HAVE A PAIR OF GOOD DOUBLE ESPRESSOS, OR SOMETHING SIMILAR, TO START MY DAY. When I’m on the road for work, a race, or and event, weak hotel coffee ain’t gonna cut it - and I don’t do Starbucks. The solution? Drop thirty bucks on one of these, buy the Fellow Prismo reusable filter and toss it in a suitcase along with a small bag of your favorite coffee. And if you’re bikepacking - same deal: throw it in your handlebar bag and roll. There’s actually enough room in the stopper for 3-4 days worth of coffee if you pack it right.

Please click my affiliate link below to buy Arundel bags from Competitive Cyclist! https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/xAYy5 By now, it’s pretty apparent that I’m a GE fan of a few brands. And when it comes to water bottle cages, Arundel is my GOLD STANDARD. I’ve had either Dave O’s or Mandibles on my bikes since the day they hit the market and I’ll never use anything else. Period, paragraph. On road or off, they’re the best I’ve found. Now...full disclosure, it has been my life’s mission to make fun of my good buddy who swears by his top tube bag. And if you showed up to ride with me and you had a handlebar bag, well, let’s just say the bike snob in me bubbled up to the surface. But underneath that seething insecurity was a secret desire to carry more essentials on my longer rides without overloading my jersey pockets. Sooooo, when a brand I respect and admire conjures up a product I’ve secretly been thinking about trying, it gets my attention. And the Top Tube Tycoon and Handlebar Czar are just cool enough to convince me to make the leap. And as luck would have it...my new Turner Ticlosis gravel bike has mounts to accommodate a top tube bag. My old friends at Arundel were kind enough to send me one of each, and to be honest - I’m all in. I mean, look at them - the design is simple yet elegant, and the shape and material choice has a high-end luxury feel that’s worthy of matching up with any bike on the spectrum. And that orange felt on the inside REALLY puts it over the top. The Handlebar Czar has 120 cubic inches of capacity, and comes with beefy velcro straps and a malleable shock cord for securing to your cables - it’s basically rubber on the outside and metal on the inside so it bends and holds to put the bag at a perfect angle to use the one-handed zipper and front netting - which is perfect for your first gel or bar of the day. I honestly haven’t stuffed it to capacity yet, so the video you’re seeing is me trying to illustrate how much it can haul. Wow. The Top Tube Tycoon has 40 cubic inches of space, and uses the same orange lining and sonic welded seams for durability. It also gives you the option to mount with velcro or use the frame bolts like I did, and the one-handed zipper is smooth as glass. For most of my rides, the tycoon is perfect because it carries everything I would usually put in my seat bag PLUS a pair of gels and a bar. And, like a seat bag, you hardly notice it’s there. So, if you’re a snob like me these are the best gateway drug I’ve found to adding classy, well-designed storage to your bike for long-haul days.

If you’ve never heard of Sportful, you’re missing out. They’re one of the best in the business, and the Fiandre collection is an absolute must-have for cool weather training. Last summer, I reviewed the Sportful Giara jersey and bib and in the process I got to know the brand quite well. So well, in fact, that they sent me a few other things to check out on the downlow. The first was the absolutely flawless SuperGiara kit accompanied by a matching Hotpack vest - which are on my own personal Oprah’s favorite things list - and the second was their shoulder season kit. And after an unseasonably cold winter out here in SoCal, the Fiandre’s become a go-to as well. When I asked what they’d recommend for late fall and early spring training, Sportful sent me the NoRain Pro THERMAL Bibs and Tights, a pair of norain knee warmers, and a Fiandre Pro jacket. I should probably preface what I’m about to say with this: I think thermal bib shorts are the greatest thing to hit cycling since clipless pedals and very few brands have done them right - they’re either too heavy or too light, and they all seem to lack any sort of compression or other technical enhancements. It’s almost as if everybody just took a mid-level summer bib and remade it with roubaix fabric. Which is fine, I guess, but what if you’re actually RACING when it’s cold? Like, I dunno - maybe cyclocross? You’re gonna want something pro-level that’s race cut but also transfers heat and moisture like your hi-tech summer kit. And these do that - in spades. The no-rain thermal fabric (which is eerily similar to Castelli nanoflex) was warm when it needed to be and shedded heat surprisingly well when the road or the pace tipped up. The micro fleece inner layer is super soft and, as an added bonus the fabric’s designed to repel water - it’s not like a raincoat or anything, but on a foggy or misty morning it keeps water droplets at bay. And, we had a lot of those mornings this winter - but as you can imagine it warms up pretty fast here, making it challenging to pick the right setup - unless you grab these and the matching knee warmers - they’re just the thing for rides that start in the high 30’s and end in the low 60’s. I can say the same for the tights, mostly, but I typically used the tights on colder rides that started earlier. Having the knee warmer option with the shorts really increases the upper temp range. Fory ears my benchmark in the hybrid jersey world has been the Assos IJ Habu jacket. And, like the Habu, the Fiandre Pro is a strange hybrid of a thermal jersey and a light jacket. Which can be really tough to pull off - not, like ‘pull. Off. But accomplish...anyway...suffice it to say that Sportful NAILED IT. I used it both as a jersey with a sleeveless base layer and like a full on winter jacket over heavy base layers. It never failed to keep me warm and dry, and regardless of the pace or terrain and as long as I had the right layers underneath - I didn’t find myself overheating - ever. The sleeve length is perfect for my super long arms, and the laser-cut finish work on the cuffs and waistband adds a nice modern touch of comfort and function. There’s also a cool laser cut flap inside the collar that can be worn up or down depending on the day. I used this more often than I thought I would - it was cozy! The front half of the jacket is windproof, and the sleeves have 360 degrees of wind protection - which really makes a difference during the early/colder hours of a ride. And, because the back panel isn’t made from the windproof Polartec neoshell stuff you find on the front and sleeves, the jacket can stretch and move better with you and it also makes the rear pockets really stretchy - which can be a big deal if you’re shedding layers all day. So, at this price you’re probably asking yourself “Could this be a full on, deep winter training system?” Nah, probably not. I think you could use the jacket with a heavy base layer into the mid 30’s, but I’d keep the tights in the 40 degree and up range for sure. You don’t want to slog long winter miles in this kit. But could you RACE in it on a 30-degree day? Yeah. Definitely. Kinda what it’s designed for.

Please support my channel by clicking this affiliate link to buy the Giordana Wool Jersey! https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/naGQ6 I guess it’s been about ten years now since Rapha hit the scene with their first generation wool jersey. It was kinda their gimmick - the hook that drew you in - “how can you wear a wool jersey on a hot day?” Was the common question I got and, for the most part, it...worked, as long as you stuck to their summer weight pieces you could stay comfortable up into the 80’s. They iterated a bit, released a super light version, and then when you weren’t looking they pivoted to more modern fabrics. And it was a good move. So here we are, all these years later, and it appears that Giordana is trying to turn back the clock. But this wool jersey is a whole new animal Giordana was going for a modern jersey with a classic vibe, and to achieve this they used a fabric that’s 51% polyester and 41% merino wool to make it soft and breathable - and it’s definitely soft: it feels a lot like a stretchy version of one of my favorite old t-shirts, and the heathered colors make it look like one, too. They say the fit is relaxed, but I found it to be quite form fitting - in a good way - and the fabric has a nice level of omnidirectional stretch, so it moves with you very well. The Jersey has *just* the right amount of gripper material at the waist - and the sleeves - which don’t have any grippers - aren’t too short or too long. I really dig the fact that there isn’t any extra elastic banding or silicone at the end of the sleeve - a well-build jersey really shouldn’t need any of that stuff because the tightness of the fabric should do the job of keeping the sleeves in place. You also get a cam lock zipper, which should be standard equipment on any jersey above a hundred bucks. The collar’s quite soft, and not too high, which means it’ll be comfortable under a vest or jacket or just zipped all the way up by itself. And that brings us to the “how to use this jersey” portion of our show. You’ll notice I said USE and not WEAR. That’s because I found the Giordana wool jersey to be more utility than fashion. Let me explain… With the right base layer, giordana’s wool jersey has an ENORMOUS temperature range and a ton of usability. On a cold winter ride in the 40’s it’s a perfect mid layer under a jacket, and with a sleeveless summerweight base I felt fine the high 80’s. Above that, I had to fly without a base layer to be comfortable. But, it’s the space in the middle where it REALLY excels. I live almost exactly halfway between the beach and the desert and I’m a short drive from a mountain that goes from just above sea level to about 6000 feet. That means I can experience some pretty wild temperature swings on any given ride - as much as 40 degrees depending on which direction I’m headed. And, when you’re climbing that 6000 foot mountain, you tend to shed jackets and vests pretty quickly on the way up. At the same time, you need something that REALLY breathes when you’re climbing for two straight hours. I really don’t like stuffing crap in my pockets so, having a jersey that can cover the spread is a godsend. The case study goes like this: My longer rides typically start at sunrise. And, because it’s slightly more arid than it is humid here it can be chilly - like in the mid to high 50’s as late as July. But it heats up. FAST. Within 2 hours, it can swing into the high 70’s and by hour 4, 5, and 6 it can be pushing 90, unless the road points up and I climb into lower temps. With a Lycra jersey I usually start out in Giordana’s DryYarn arm warmers and a vest, which is fine...but that vest is gonna come off, and I really need that space in my pockets for food so it’s nice to be able to clip in with one less layer, one less thing to cram in my pocket mid-ride. On days where I know I’ll see that big swing and be done before it gets TOO hot, it’s tough not to reach for this one.

Polar sent me this at no charge, and I was not paid for this video. I'm also member of their affiliate program. Please click the link below to support my channel and buy a Polar Vantage V2! https://shrsl.com/2kxd3 A few months ago, my friends at Polar sent me the Vantage V, and not long after that they sent me the Grit X. I had ample time to review the Vantage V, and just as I was starting to fall in love with the Grit - they sent me this - the new - and improved - Vantage V2. So, since I’ve only had it a few weeks, let’s take a quick first look at the new features. Now, I’m gonna try to keep this short but that might be hard because the V2 is really a huge leap ahead of the V….one. If you’re looking at either one (or the Grit), then there’s a good chance you’re more than just a casual athlete. You’re competitive, you like to challenge yourself, you have two or three big events on your calendar and you’re probably in the middle of a training program that needs all the measurable results it can get. But at the same time, your BIGGEST challenge is maintaining the balance between real life, training, and recovery. And, if you take the time to learn how this watch works...and then listen to what it tells you I think that balance will be easier to achieve. So, let’s go through the specific features and updates that I think will help. Keep in mind that I’m viewing this through the eyes of a cyclist - not a runner. So, I may leave a few things out that I don’t find relevant. Up first, you get a host of testing options: Running and Cycling Performance, Fitness, Orthostatic, and Leg Recovery. The cycling test has 20,30,40, and 60 minute options and in concert with your power meter it will triangulate your functional threshold power (FTP) and the V2 can also estimate your V02 Max AND your Watts per Kilogram. The leg recovery test is as simple as jumping up and down three times, and you can use it to determine when your legs are recovered enough for an optimal speed or strength workout. This will also influence how the cool FitSpark feature prescribes your daily cross-training workouts, and it also factors into the Training Load feature, which helps paint a comprehensive picture of the individual status of your cardio load, your muscle load, and your perceived effort. But, perhaps the biggest leap forward for the V2 is the improved sleep tracking, which combines the training data with data collected by the Sleep Plus Stages feature to spit out a Nightly Recharge measurement - all of which is displayed in the Polar Flow App. Sounds like a lot, I know. But I promise that once you dive into the process and setup, it’s all pretty intuitive. I’ll post a more exhaustive review on my experience in the coming months. But before I go, let’s take a quick look at the watch itself. The aluminum case is entirely new, and SIGNIFICANTLY lighter than before. When you look at the V1 and V2 side by side you can actually see where they’ve shaved weight here and there. The HR sensor has been updated as well, and you also get onboard music controls - which is REALLY cool if you’re using AirPods or any other bluetooth device that doesn’t have a volume control. Last but not least, the band has a quick change pin system but what none of the press from Polar highlights is the new inner surface of the band. And to me, this is probably the one feature that really puts the V2 over the top. It seems to be a little less flexible than the V1 band, BUT because it’s not textured it’s actually a lot more comfortable. To be honest, I really couldn’t sleep in the V1. It was jussssst uncomfortable enough to be noticeable. The inner surface on the V2 has a teflon-like feel, and when you combine that with the NOTICEABLY lower weight of the watch, and the smooth back case it simply vanishes when you wear it to bed - making all that stuff I just mentioned entirely within reach and useable.

Here's a little piece I did for Competitive Cyclist a few years back. So easy, and so affordable! Give it a try. Shopping list via Amazon is below. PS: I'm in the Amazon Affiliate program, so every purchase helps support my channel! Capsicum: https://amzn.to/3dmYovD Beeswax: https://amzn.to/370CexV Olive Oil: https://amzn.to/2IoRqL3 Shea Butter: https://amzn.to/315LOMp Coconut Oil: https://amzn.to/3lJNL9e Spouted Pan: https://amzn.to/3iQaBtO Nitrile Gloves: https://amzn.to/3dp2Yt5 DISCLAIMER: BE CAREFUL WITH THE CAPSICUM! WEAR GLOVES AND DON'T LET YOUR KIDS NEAR THE STUFF!! Oh, and if you don't want to make your own they have a killer selection! https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/bZLNx

Pinarello loaned me this bike for review, and I was not paid for the review by either Pinarello or Competitive Cyclist. I am, however, in the Competitive Cyclist Affiliate program, so if you click below, every purchase you make helps support my channel: https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/Rxr2R Like it or not, Gravel Bikes are basically the new black. The scene has absolutely EXPLODED, and as a result every big bike brand on the planet has their own quite unique take on what they think a gravel bike should be. I grew to love long days on dirt roads (or trails) where I almost got lost at every turn, so when everybody started making bikes and wheels and tires and components that bridged the gap between my road and mountain bikes, I turned into the meme of that guy nodding and pointing at his head. And then I just kept riding my road bike on everything. And there’s a couple of reasons for that (1) I didn’t have the budget for a gravel bike, and (2) I live in southern california near san diego, and most of the stuff around here is pretty smooth. But some of it isn’t...and I found myself longing for something with fatter tires from time to time because there were long and short connector roads that I simply couldn’t ride on my Bianchi Infinito with 28c tires, even when they’re deflated to 50psi. So I started riding a few bikes - the Ibis Hakka, a Bianchi Infinito, a few cross bikes from Giant and Specialized and after all that I ended up on an Allied Alfa All road, mostly because Allied was founded by a good friend, and I loved buying a carbon bike that was hand made in my hometown of Little Rock, Arkansas. And it was a great bike in just about every way, but I ended up selling it to buy my current bike - the R5. And that brings us back to the Grevil, which I got to test at the same time as the Canyon Grail CF and Grail AL. I must admit, having all three in my garage for about 6 weeks was pretty amazing...but it was also pretty enlightening because I discovered that all gravel bikes are not created equally. And that’s obvious the first time you look at the swirling, twisty asymetrical-ness of the frame. And it’s not smoke and mirrors - the tubes are a direct descendant of the Dogma F12 with ovalized leading edges and flat back trailing edges to reduce aero drag. You get a slightly more pliable carbon on the Grevil as well, and after riding both the F12 and Grevil on some of the same fire roads I can testify that that their engineers made the right material selection: the Grevil’s frame takes the edge off, for sure, and the flattened chainstays and seatstays help out as well. And the frame can accommodate 700c or 650b wheels. And that, right there, is the turning point of this review...because, the Grevil is two different bikes when you flip the wheels from 29 to 27 and a half. With the larger diameter, you get a gravel race bike - if there is such a thing. It’s super stiff, a little harsh, and equally responsive on and off the road. And with 28-32c road slicks installed, this is a bike that will go toe to toe with older versions of the dogma, like the F10, all day long - which puts it in pretty elite company. Yeah, the handling wasn’t as snappy as a PURE road bike, but when I pointed this thing uphill - on road or off - it felt almost just like the dogmas I’ve owned and loved. But that created some cognitive dissonance because...I’m not really sure I’d want to ride the Grevil in that configuration OFF road for more than a few hours. Compared to the Grail, it really only felt good at higher (raceday) speeds, where the Canyon felt good no matter how slow or fast I was going. And that kinda bummed me out, but didn’t surprise me because this is a characteristic of EVERY Pinarello I’ve ever ridden - the faster you go, the better the bike feels. Because it was DESIGNED TO GO FAST. But then…(smile)...I put on the 650’s with some fairly wide tires. And what I got, was ALL of that stuff that I just mentioned, at any speed. t wasn’t as fast on the road with the 650’s, but the bike is so fun with the smaller wheels that I didn’t really want to ride on the road. I actually kept my mountain bike pedals on the Grevil most of the time because the bike always tempted me to go too far down a road or trail that I likely couldn’t navigate on a 700c bike. So with two wheelsets the Grevil is really three very different bikes in one: in 700c mode it’s a hardcore gravel race bike AND a really good road bike, and with the 650’s it’s one of the best swiss army knife bikes I’ve found. I wouldn’t hesitate to roll an all day mixed terrain event on the Grevil in 650 mode...in fact...if I owned one, a set of 650c Zipp 303’s with Ultradynamico CAVA’s would be a permanent fixture.

Bummed to hear the Belgian Waffle Ride was postponed to 2021, but relieved because my longest ride this year is only 90 miles! This is the un-aired finale of a series I did for Competitive Cyclist back in 2018. If you'd like to see the whole series, please click here: https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/knZgM Here's my bike setup: Factor 02 Disc w/ Black Inc integrated bar and stem SRAM Red eTap Zipp 404 NSW's 30c tubeless Schwalbe G1's Fizik Arione Saddle GoPro Fusion for 360-degree footage

POC supplied the gear to me at no charge, and I was not paid for the review by either POC or Competitive Cyclist. I am, however, in the Competitive Cyclist Affiliate program, so if you click below, every purchase you make helps support my channel: https://competitivecyclist.g39l.net/eVO0Z I’ve told this story before, but my first experience with POC was at interbike several years ago. As I was walking the floor trying to find my next meeting I saw a guy about my size in bleach white protective gear sprinting across a booth like a gymnast and throwing himself back first and upside down INTO A WALL. The booth he was in was POC’s, they got my attention (and everyone else’s) and now ten years later they’re one of the biggest softgoods brands in our industry. But in all that time - I never owned anything POC until about a year ago when they sent me the Ventral to review. Since then it’s been my #1 go-to helmet because it’s highly visible and the moder, almost cubist design really grabs your attention. It’s also hellaciously comfortable, incredibly light, and practically vanishes when you put it on. The inner padding and secondary retention mechanism are perfectly placed, and the straps are light and ribbon like without feeling thin or flimsy. You also get little rubber pads in two of the front vents, which are there to keep your sunglasses from slipping when you take them off. I love the little things, and this is one of the best little finishing touches I’ve seen - it’s just clever and infinitely useable. So. I covered Attention and Visibility, and kinda touched on Interaction. So, A, V, I...but what about the P? Protection? Well, I regret to say I accidentally tested that as well. That’s right - I crashed it, and I crashed it hard. I set out for a little 30 minute recovery spin - super easy, you know - the equivalent to walking your dog around the block. There’s a little connector trail between two streets that has an off-camber downhill chicane - I’ve ridden it a hundred times, but THIS time I was on a bike I hadn’t ridden in a while and I over-braked. The front wheel washed out, and I hit the dirt harder than I’ve hit the dirt, or pavement, IN. MY. LIFE: It was like a whip that started with my left knee, left hip, left shoulder, and BAM the left side of my head was the crack of the whip. Long story short, I was only a mile from home so I was able to ride it out but when I took off my helmet - it was trashed - and I knew immediately that a concussion was imminent and was lucky i didn’t get knocked unconscious. Anyway...I managed to post my ride to Strava before I went inside to get cleaned up, and practically by the time I checked my email later that night my friends at POC had seen the ride on Strava and were already asking where to send the crash replacement helmet. Needless to say - I’ll never play anything else and POC’s attention to my protection and well being moved me in the same way. I don’t think you’ll catch me wearing a Giro, Kask, or Bell helmet ever again. Not because they suck, but because I KNOW the people at POC truly care about my safety, and yours too. And that’s where the new NFC version of the Ventral SPIN helmet comes into the picture. The NFC version is identical to the base model in every way: it still includes POC’s patent-pending silicone pad system, the revolutionary SPIN technology which stands for (Shearing Pad INside) and the High-performance EPS liner with targeted and optimized density that provides an ideal balance of low weight and crash protection. It also has the same fully wrapped unibody shell construction. But underneath the flat black shell is a Near-Field communication device that allows you to store your emergency contact info. So, let’s say I WAS KO’d and I happened to be a hundred miles from home instead of one. My iphone is a company phone and it’s mandatory that I lock it. I use face ID, but I don’t know that the EMT would think of that. And since we’re all riding longer and generally going solo these days, having this little transmitter with an easy to use app interface is a huge piece of mind. I find myself wearing it just as much as i wore the white one, but I’m a little bummed it’s only available in one color. Hopefully, by the time you see this that’ll change.