LeonSalcar

"The most enchanting part of this Emporio Armani show came just before the lights went down. Its final 12 or so looks, presented on models walking solo or in pairs, were shown under a light flurry of fake snow that fell softly from a gantry above. The models twirled their umbrellas through this runway weather event in glinting crystal or pin adorned shirting and blouses over mixed-length black organza skirts, or sometimes in grid-embellished dresses whose pattern echoed the pattern of the runway itself. The final trio of looks in this finale nocturne involved a top fashioned from mirrored star and crescent moon shaped panels loosely attached to a wide chain trellis worn above loose black velvet trousers, and two black velvet suits and matching berets set with more shining lunar arcs. After those final two waxing moon suits passed the photographers, Giorgio Armani came out to take his bow for this last Emporio womenswear show of his ninth decade." Text by Luke Leitch for Vogue.com

"Male and female models walked the runway wearing Lila Nikole during Miami Swim Week 2023– Powered by Art Hearts Fashion at the Fontainebleau Hotel on July 8, 2023 in Miami Beach. Miami’s finest swimwear line from Lila Nikole featured radiant sultry bright colors in this newest men’s and women’s swimwear collection. The Lila Nikole Collection is led by fearless designer, Lila Nikole Rivera. Lila Nikole Collection was born in 2009 and has continued flourishing into a powerhouse brand. With each passing year, the momentum continues to build as a direct result from the efforts of its creative team. The designs, manufacturing, and creative process is made in the sunny city of Miami, infused by the culture and melting pot of eclectic elements our city bolsters." Text from miamifashionspotlight.org Music from: EDM Detection Mode di Kevin MacLeod è un brano concesso in uso tramite licenza Creative Commons Attribution 4.0. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Fonte: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1500026 Artista: http://incompetech.com/

"Paris has been chattering all week about the empty creative-director seat at Givenchy, tossing out names and wondering about timelines. The studio team was responsible for this collection. Givenchy has been through so many hands in the past decade—Riccardo Tisci, Clare Waight Keller, Matthew M. Williams—that the audience has lost its handle on what Hubert de Givenchy stands for, but that’s not a problem the in-house designers suffer from. This show started off promising with a cocktail dress swirling with densely embroidered silver beads, a narrow train trailing behind it: That was a reminder to those who may have forgotten that this house has a couture atelier. What followed was a decorous, if not daring, collection of elegant tailored suits and evening dresses. The former were distinguished by fabric-covered buttons and a pinkie ring looped through a buttonhole on the lapel, and the latter often embellished with a swoop of fabric at the neckline or across the back, a subtle but not uninteresting detail pulled from the house archives. On a few other dresses, a draped, doubled waistline evoked a basque silhouette, another hallmark of the founder’s era." Text by Nicole Phelps for Vogue.com

With the show of the Fall 2024 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri completes the creative journey that led her to present her first Dior Ready-to-Wear collection at the Brooklyn Museum, a truly special place for her because it is the only one to host a gallery dedicated to the works of feminist artists.

"Fall/Winter 2024-25 was a season of ambitious introspection for Louis Vuitton. Nicholas Ghesquière reflected on ten years at the brand with a spectacular collection that referenced aesthetics ranging from rococo to space age, in addition to winking at many of the designer’s own iconic pieces. The collection was presented in the Cour Carée at the Louvre, the same location where Ghesquière made his dramatic debut for the brand ten years ago. The show took guests back to the future, as models sauntered down a grand runway in avant-garde silhouettes resplendent with regal rococo decorations. " Text by Jesse Scott for rain-mag.com

"Casey Cadwallader, the creative mind behind Mugler Fall Winter 2024 collection, orchestrated a fashion experience that was both a tribute to and a reinvention of the brand’s past, giving us a show full of high drama with high fashion. By mining the brand’s rich archives, particularly the vampiric allure of the 1980s, he steered away from the norms of daywear, opting instead for evening looks that are opulent, made of rich textures and fabrics." Text from DesignScene.net

"Maison Prada once again surprised the fashion system with its runway show for Fall/Winter 2024-25, creating a true experience that goes beyond merely presenting garments and accessories but offers a profound reflection. On what? Obviously, on today’s society, on the innovation of this wonderful sector, and identity. The collection, signed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, mixes different fragments of stories and concepts encapsulated in the most authentic beauty. Here, the past becomes a creative tool capable of inventing the new. The runway highlights and plays with a perfect mashup of materials and shapes. Then, the association of fabrics often becomes a tale of an oxymoron, such as silk and wool. The silhouettes are decidedly fitted, expressing a non-trivial contemporary femininity." Text from theblondesalad.com

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Someone has said: "Giorgio Armani seems to have secret access to the elixir of youth. Sharp-minded and in tip-top shape at 89, at the press conference before today’s Armani Privé show he looked utterly in command, still supervising the tiniest styling detail—adjusting an earring here, adding a necklace there, changing a model’s coiffure at the last minute. And scolding the staff for being noisy." MUSIC: Almost in F - Tranquillity di Kevin MacLeod è un brano concesso in uso tramite licenza Creative Commons Attribution 4.0. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Fonte: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100394 Artista: http://incompetech.com/

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If there was ever a brand to embody the trend of quiet luxury, Hermès would be it. For Fall/Winter 2024, creative director Véronique Nichanian has delivered a collection that sees versatility at the forefront.

"The stage was set in Milan, but it felt like a grand theater of fashion, with Versace's Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection commanding attention like never before. The venue, adorned with black shag carpeting and a striking white Escher staircase, served as the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable display of style and sophistication. If there was any doubt about the magnitude of this event, it was dispelled as models weaved through the crowd in a mesmerizing figure-eight pattern, making it clear that this was not just another fashion show—it was a spectacle to behold." Kendam.com

Matthieu Blazy’s challenge every season is to produce a collection that’s at least as good as his previous ones. It’s a task that’s more difficult than the myth that says “Sisyphus did not fall,” but it’s one that he always seems to be able to master, and it’s no surprise that he’s done it again for Fall/Winter 2022. With so many elements that make this show so grandiose, we’ll start with something that’s so integral to the brand’s DNA: the signature weaving technique. You’ll see it on classic bags like the House classic, the Sardine, the Cabat, the Andiamo and the Cobble bag, all of which remind us of the importance of a good recipe when it comes to luxury goods. One of the most playful touches this season was with the Sardine bag, which was reimagined in the true sardine shape. #fashion #bottegaveneta #bottegavenetabag #runway

For Fall 2024, MM6 Maison Margiela is breaking away from the baggy designs that the brand has been used for the past few seasons and embracing a more structured, sharper aesthetic. The French brand is focusing on sharper, more structured styles this season, after showcasing flowy blouses and baggy overalls for Spring 2024. These styles include straight-cut overcoats, sculptural leather vests, crisp blazers, and very precisely-pointed shoulders on sleeveless mini dresses and cap-sleeve tops with a neckline shaped by an open zipper.

"Bells tolled, birds chirped, and bicycle wheels turned to signal the commencement of AMI‘s Fall/Winter 2024 runway show at Paris Fashion Week. Guests were escorted into a darkened room with spacious interiors, feasting their eyes on a movie-like facade that mimicked Parisian apartment blocks. An artificial sunset ignited the building’s exterior while wooden doors slowly opened, allowing models to walk the runway in a well-tailored collection. French designer Alexandre Mattiussi is fascinated by his Parisian homeland, constantly celebrating its spirited inhabitants awakening to the city sunshine. The show invitation delivered dozens of AMI-branded catalogs, postcards, and utility bills, reflecting the mailboxes of city-wide residents. FW24 honored the bustling homes of everyday Parisians, seeing mothers, teens, grandfathers, and friends unite across 62 looks. American model Guinevere Van Seenus, French icon Audrey Marnay, and past Victoria’s Secret angel Laetitia Casta were FW24’s celebrity stars, strolling through packed benches wearing AMI’s latest. The collection was dominated by refined tailoring, portraying the modern worker through soft silhouettes ready to take on the day ahead. A mirage of black and brown drowned double-breasted suiting and strong-shouldered coats, while tan and grey came alive across skin-tight tanks and pleated culottes. AMI’s essential glimmer shined on gilded slip dresses, off-shoulder tops, and baggy denim jeans, creating transitional wardrobes for morning meetings and evening outings alike." Text By Andrea Sacal. January 18th 2024, for HypeBeast.com

Glenn Martens has never been one to hold back, especially at Diesel. Last season, the Belgian designer held a free outdoor rave for 7,000 people to debut his Spring 2024 collection for the brand. The season before that, his runway featured a leaning tower of more than 200,000 Diesel-branded Durex condoms. For Fall 2024, Martens took this fascination with putting it all out there much more literally, setting up an open-access live stream at not just the brand's HQ, but also the venue for its Milan Fashion Week show, so viewers could watch every single step of the process, from casting to fittings to rehearsal. If you were wondering whether people tuned in: On show day, the set had a projection of a live Zoom call feed in the background, with 1,000 participants who got a front-row (virtual) seat to the event. This concept of transparency — or "our hidden sides breaking into the open, the inside coming out" — is mirrored within the Fall 2024 collection, according to the show notes. Diesel builds on its established distressed design language with dégradés and burn-out treatments (jersey shirts scorched with a sweat-like effect, button-downs so washed out the transparent layer underneath is visible, leopard print dresses that wear out to reveal floral prints). Of course, denim is ever-present, also transformed in various ways, be it to appear crackled or to look like leather." Text by JANELLE SESSOMS, February 21, 2024. For Fashionista.com

“Minimalist” is not a term often associated with Fendi, but as the opening look for Kim Jones‘ Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture show emerged onto the chrome runway, the immediate mood was one of impeccable refinement. Of course, by look three, a more familiar sense of glamour showed itself in the form of a paillette-adorned skirt rippling under a tailored jacket. Presenting in Paris on the last day of Haute Couture Week, the collection harkened back to Karl Lagerfeld’s futuristic vision during his tenure at the Italian fashion house. As Jones explained, his was an unconventionally forward approach that was rooted in humanism and anchored by a deep reverence for form and function. Notably, we were introduced to the ‘Scatola’ silhouette this season. Translating to ‘box’, shift-style gowns ban and concluded the show, a departure from the brand’s signatures of body-hugging silhouettes and sensual drapery. Though some looks featured luxuriously large coats and sleek, structured leathers, this collection had a serenity that carried through from tailored separates to ornate gowns. Silk gazar that seemingly hovered over the skin, masculine tailoring rendered in feminine fabrications like sequins, beading and satin and even dresses packed with embroidery and jewels possessed a sense of lightness. Where last season leaned into luxe jewel tones, SS24 embraced a more neutral palette, with intrigue all centring on these textural contrasts at play. On the accessories front, Jones simply outdid himself. Featuring bespoke Baguette silhouettes with fur trimmings, evening bags glistening with sequins and beadwork, and fringed micro bags that move fluidly with the wearer. Pointed croc pumps in silver were prolific, but our eyes were stuck on their fringed counterparts. Fendi also debuted some retrofuturistic eyewear designed by jeweller Delfina Delettrez. Featuring diamonds, inverted wiring, and floating lenses, they expanded on Jones’ vision, tapping into the projections of future fashions once dreamt up." Text by Pema Bakshi for GraziaMagazine.com

“Deauville is where everything started for the House. 1912, the creation of her hat shop and then very quickly the first clothes with their visionary, radical style. It’s where it all began for Gabrielle Chanel. This story is very close to my heart,” confides Virginie Viard. On the racecourse, on the seaside, at the gaming table, in restaurants and palaces, on the “Planches” boardwalk: everything is about elegance and self-staging. “For this collection, we recreated the Deauville boardwalk, she adds. Giant screens on which long, romantic silhouettes stroll in the light from dawn to dusk.” Shrouded in mystery, the models walk along the beach. The 1920s and 70s cross paths and intertwine. Androgynous and cinematic, the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2024/25 Ready-to-Wear collection imagined by Virginie Viard draws its femininity from Gabrielle Chanel’s own wardrobe and its masculinity from the subtle elegance of winter sojourns by the sea. Broad-shouldered peacoats and long dressing-gown-style belted coats are worn over tweed suits – box-pleated skirts, culottes or cropped trousers –, drop-front trousers or trousers with tabs at the back." Text by DailyMood.it