Combo Ratcheting Wrenches - Must Have Tool!
#wrench #wrenches #handtools
These wrenches are too useful in a wide range of settings to not have in your toolkit. We use them ongoing for a variety of applications. Figuring out what direction the ratchet will engage is easy too!
Simply look at the offset direction of the open wrench end, and that's the direction of swing that the box end will engage. The opposite direction will engage the ratchet to position the wrench for another partial turn.
The wrenches we have only have a 15-degree offset on the open end side, there is no offset for the box end, but there are models that do have an offset or have a link assembly there for coming at a bolt or not from an angle above.
Here is a link to the set that we have - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Ratcheting-E-Combination-Wrench-Set-11-Piece-HRW11PCE/314256278
We think these are great tools, and they are another asset that aligns with our philosophy of JUST DO IT YOURSELF!
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PRO Spray Paint Secrets!
Spray paint is simple, effective, and affordable. Just about anyone can use spray paint and get good results - right? Well - not so fast! If you want PROFESSIONAL results, there are some methods you need to use to get the finish you really like.
#spraypaint #spraypainting #spraycan
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There are a few variables that need to be addressed to assure you get great results when spray painting or applying finishes (such as lacquer or varnish).
First, buy the best quality paints. Cheap paint runs easily and covers poorly. Cheap paint is suitable for quick color changes where it will not be scrutinized up close, or won’t be exposed to the elements. An example is spraying theatrical prop braces black. Highly quality paint covers well, resists runs, and holds up longer.
Second, spray in a sheltered place with good ventilation. You don’t want to breathe the fumes, it’s just not good for you. Also, items that have been heated up by sunlight are better painted when they are closer to room temperature. Being sheltered or in a shop environment also allows you to avoid windy or breezy conditions, allowing for more consistent application. Insects are also greatly diminished, which seem to find their way right away to freshly finished surfaces!
Third, protect the surrounding area from overspray using draping, backdrops, or shields. We use old corrugated plastic signs, sheets of cardboard, or butcher paper. It only takes a few moments, and the clean-up is really fast.
While you’re at it, you’ll get better results using “painter’s pyramids” or other sharply pointed devices that both raise the object being painted off the table, while not marring the finish when the piece is turned over to paint the back side. Raised edges also allow for better paint coverage along those narrow surfaces.
As for the application of the paint itself, there are some rules of thumb that will help you get the best results. Make sure the paint can is well shaken, and that the spray head is clear. Try to paint surfaces that are horizontal. This allows the paint to even out better and resist drooling. If you do need to paint on vertical or upside-down surfaces, do so with multiple light coats.
We’ve saved the best for last. There are two “pro” tips that will give you a beautiful finish. First, start the spray just before you move the spray across the surface. This allows the rate and pattern of the spray to stabilize before being applied. And, stop the spray just a split second after going past the surface. Again, consistent application from side to side is key.
Second, keep the distance between the spray can and the object being finished the same by using a parallel motion. A common mistake is to arc your arm back and forth. This means the edges will get less and the middle will get a lot - and will be prone to running. Not good.
Resist the temptation to test the surface by touching it. Let it dry well. Humid weather will take longer. Do any touch-ups sparingly.
And, remember, if you do have to paint vertically or up into a surface, do so with light, multiple coats. Heavy spray is NOT a shortcut, because you’ll have runs and areas you’ll need to repair. Save yourself the headache and do a light coat several times.
Sure, you can go get decorative items painted, but why? JUST DO IT YOURSELF!
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Save Your Fingers When Picking Up Sharp Screws!
No more pain and disorganization when picking up those sharp drywall screws!
This little shop-made tool works well with all ferrous hardware like screws, washers, bolts, pins and nuts. Not only can you pick up items from inside a container or a small organizer bin, but the parts will stay clustered on the tool instead of spreading out on your work table!
You'll need a magnet, epoxy, and a scrap wood handle. While you're at it, make several! You'll be glad you did!
You can check out the original build here: https://youtu.be/Iqay9H3XZy0
Visit us at dirtfarmerjay.com/shop for great caps, shirts, and coffee mugs. Get the message out that you JUST DO IT YOURSELF!
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How to Change Pressure Units on the Dewalt Cordless Inflator
The DeWalt® Cordless Inflator will display 3 different air pressure units using a simple technique.
The inflator has three push-button switches along the top of the pressure inflation progress indicator and the pressure setting indicators. The 3 push-buttons are (L-R) power, toggle between blower and inflator, and flashlight.
Three pressure modes are available: I, Bar, and kPa. To rotate between them and display the unit you prefer (or that is marked on the tire you are inflating!), press and hold BOTH of the buttons on the right while simultaneously rotating the pressure setting ring on the inflation start button.
You will see the pressure units change in the pressure setting window. Choose the one you like!
If you'd like to purchase one of these units, check out this link: https://www.youtube.com/product/E_g_11gvstbtf3
Thanks for watching, and remember to JUST DO IT YOURSELF!
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Making Outdoor Equipment Tires Last!
We do 2 simple things to make the tires on yard equipment last a long time!
Rubber and sunlight don't mix well. The UV (ultraviolet) portion of the sun's light spectrum really plays havoc with rubber (and the plastic that is used for a lot of outdoor equipment components).
One of our videos featured one of the Gorilla Cart® models. There were some that said that they were very unhappy with the inflatable tires that came with the cart. They rotted quickly, wouldn't hold air, or cracked.
We've avoided (or at least significantly delayed) those issues by doing two very simple things. First, store the cart out of the sunlight (just because it gets used outdoors doesn't mean it has to live there), and keep the tires inflated to the recommended pressure. Low air pressure IS NOT a friend of tires. Correct pressure IS.
The tires that came on our cart show recommended maximum pressure as 2.0 BAR. The rough equivalent of that in I is 29. So we set our DeWalt Cordless Inflator to 2.0 bar or 29 I and keep the tires on our cart inflated. This protects the bead of the tires (the place where the inside edge of the tire mounts on the steel rim) from breaking loose.
Having our inflator on hand around here makes it easy to keep yard equipment and vehicle tires properly inflated. Thanks to my friend Brady N. that recommended this tool to me. He rocks.
If you want one, visit this link: https://www.youtube.com/product/E_g_11gvstbtf3
Easy preventative practices that save a lot of trouble later and give you extended time for your investment!
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Montana Brand® “Gotta Have” Self-Centering Drills
These great self-centering bits from Montana Brand® tools are well made and extremely handy! No more crooked or off-center screws when installing hardware. Great pricing too!
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#drillbitset #drillbits #woodworkingtools
Montana Brand® tools are made in the U.S.A. Yep, in Montana. These tools are well made, reasonably priced, and do a great job.
After purchasing and using their tools over the last year, we decided that we liked them so much that we joined their Affiliate Program. This has allowed us to authentically recommend their tooling, and receive a small fee for each purchase our viewers make. This in turn allows us to continually reinvest in new episodes. As a “thank you” for your support, use coupon code “DFJ” for 10% off when you purchase from www.montanabrandtools.com!
We recently reviewed the Montana Tools® X29 Brad Point Drill Bit Set we purchased. We were really pleased with the economics, performance, and opportunity to support the industrial workforce of the country we live in. You can check out that review right here:
https://youtu.be/sNr_wtO9O7s
In this episode, we take a look at the Montana Brand® Quick Change Self-Centering Drill and Driver Set (for #6, #8, and #10 screws). Reasonably priced (at the time of this filming) at about $35 for the set ($13 for a single reversible bit holder and self-centering bit), you can buy it here:
https://www.montanabrandtools.com/?ref=dirtfarmerjay
You can purchase these tools at various retailers, but we find it most convenient to buy them right off the company’s website: www.MontanaBrandTools.com. We think you’ll be pleased with the performance of the tools as well as the price point. Remember to use your 10% coupon code: DFJ
These are great tools that will allow you to JUST DO IT YOURSELF!
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No More Trash Liner Malfunctions!
Here's a simple and inexpensive way to stop trash can liners from falling into the container as you load the bin. This is great for odd-sized containers like we have.
#shorts #trashbag #garbagebag
Give it shot and check out dirtfarmerjay.com for merchandise, blogs, stories, and added features!
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Keep Deer Out of Your Garden with Nite Guard?
Deer can destroy a yardscape and expensive plantings overnight! You need all the help you can get to keep the deer away. Nite Guard claims it can help you win the deer war. Can it?
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#deer #garden #wildlifecontrol
Deer can be extremely destructive to gardens and yardscapes. A single evening of deer free-ranging in your yard can result in losses of ornamental flowers, specimen plantings, and your veggie garden.
Urban deer - those that have been born and live in an urban or suburban setting - can be extremely persistent and tend to be the most difficult unwanted yard visitor to control.
The NiteGuard Solar® was invented in 1997 by the owners of one of the largest game bird farms in the United States. Their problem was owls that were decimating their flocks. They needed a way to strongly deter the owls and found that a flashing red light had a strong effect on the owls. After experimentation with the spacing of units, placement spacing, and height, and when the units operated, they found that they GREATLY reduced their losses.
Word got out about this and others started using the units with similar success for owl problems. Users also discovered that these were effective on other types of wildlife that are active at night that could cause problems on the farm in a yardscape. These included a wide range of animals, including raccoons, skunks, bobcats, coyotes, hawks, and even bears!
The unit activates at dusk and continues through dawn. It is not motion activated, the flash occurs ongoing. When a night predator sees the light, from up to a ¼ of a mile (about 400 meters), it triggers a cautionary response.
To maximize effectiveness, there are three keys to nighttime predator control:
The units must be mounted at the correct height for the animal you want to deter. Set the unit at 48”/121 cm for deer, 30”/76 cm for coyotes, 15”/38 cm for raccoons, and 10’/3 M for owls and hawks. These are the typical heights that the eyes of the animal you are controlling and give the best likelihood of the NiteGuard® being seen.
All paths of access to an area need a unit facing that way. In a large area with good sight lines, a great method is to place 4 units at the correct height facing in 4 directions.
Changing up placements keeps the animal “off guard”. Leaving the units in the same place ongoing greatly diminishes their effectiveness.
The NiteGuard Solar® units operate only in low light and dark situations, so they will not provide protection during daytime hours. You will need a combination of deterrent measures such as motion-detector sprinklers (some call these “water scarecrows”), holographic flash tape, ways to randomly create noise, and so forth.
Our friends Dennis and Rosemary own a setting that has been regularly harvested by multiple deer. They were kind to conduct a field test. They used a combination of water scarecrows, NiteGuard® units, and flash tape. While not completely eliminating the problem, these measures have greatly reduced nighttime visits and resulting damage.
Units are mounted on 5’ (1.5 m) sections of gray PVC conduit and slipped over metal stakes that are placed in the yard. They mount the units 4’ (122 cm) above the ground on the conduit, and they move the units ongoing, as well as placing the water deterrents in different directions and places.
During the daytime, the deer in our test setting quickly acclimated to the tape, even with placement changes, and ignored it. In fact, on two different occasions, the deer were observed grazing lilies and roses while standing under the flash tape. Boy, those deer can be persistent!
NiteGuard Solar® units will operate continuously for about 3 to 5 years, even in extreme weather conditions, and are charged ongoing by sunlight.
Many people have found alternative uses for the units, including keeping curious wildlife away from a camping trip in the wild, as a safety beacon in the wilderness, or giving the appearance of a security system/camera on a residence.
NiteGuard Solar® units, as well as holographic flash tape, are available at:
www.niteguard.com. You should expect to pay about $25 for a genuine NiteGuard Solar® unit..
You’ve worked hard to create a beautiful setting around your home. Protect your investment without harming the wildlife. We think you’ll like the NiteGuard® solution!
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Best Way to Replace Bandsaw Tires!
Bandsaws are one of the most useful tools to have in the shop. Eventually, the tires on the saw’s wheels will degrade or break and will need replacing. Urethane tires are the best, but they are intentionally undersized, making them difficult to mount. Here’s the best way we’ve found to mount urethane bandsaw replacement tires!
#bandsawtirereplacement #urethanebandsawtires #bestmethodreplacebandsawtires
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In our shop, the bandsaw is right up there with our table saw. There are very few projects that we work on that aren’t created using one or both of these great tools.
Such hard-working tools need to be serviced ongoing, and parts do need replacement from time to time. In the case of the bandsaw, there are routine items to address, such as blade replacements, blade tensioning, and setting guides. However, sooner or later, the tires on the main blade wheels are going to need replacement. This is especially true if the saw is equipped with rubber tires.
Rubber will eventually dry out, crack, and even break. They are easily replaced and are affixed to the wheels using an adhesive. They are slightly undersized and can easily be stretched onto the rims. The downside is shorter life than the newer urethane tires (“tyres” for our U.K. friends!).
In this episode, DirtFarmer Jay shows you how to install the latest generation urethane tires. They are significantly undersized and need to be properly stretched on the wheels, without putting pressure on any small area of the tire. The tires have a “weld” spot, and that area needs to be avoided when applying tension to the tire. The weld is strong, but it’s still the weakest spot on the tire.
Tires can be replaced on the machine, but we believe it’s a better practice to remove the wheels and work with them off the machine. This also allows for a simple jig to be constructed that will assure an effective installation of the tires on the wheels. The simple jig uses what you likely already have in your shop.
Having the wheels off the machine also gives you an opportunity to clean your machine and to do a thorough inspection of this great tool.
DirtFarmerJay purchases his bandsaw tires at Sulphur Grove Tools. You can visit them at sgtool.com or call them at 904-619-7935. They have a great wheel selection tool on their website. If you don’t see your bandsaw listed, call them and they’ll find the right one for you. That’s what they did for us - ours turned out to require 16” x 1” x ⅛” tires. We purchased our urethane tires from Sulphur Grove Tools, including shipping and tax, for about $47. These are made right here in the U.S.A. Wherever you are in the world, we think it’s good to support your manufacturing base, so if you are in the United States, you might want to take that into consideration, and not just the cheapest price you can find. Simply put, it’s our pleasure to recommend sources that we’ve had a good experience with.
To check out a great little tool to properly set the blade tension on your bandsaw, check out DirtFarmerJay’s review of this clever device:
https://youtu.be/V6_JNlbGNVs.
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How to Coil A Bandsaw Blade
#bandsaw #bandsawblade #sawblade
Coiling a bandsaw blade is easy and fast. When coiled, the blade takes up less storage space, is easy to label and retrieve, and is safer to handle.
Wearing gloves, making sure you have covered-toe shoes on, and facing the teeth away from you, grasp the top of the loop while standing on the bottom loop against the floor. Using a twisting motion, twist the top loop clockwise as you push the top loop towards the floor. Twist once again as you bring the two loops together. The blade will coil up, but will probably need a bit of "jostling" to get the coil even.
To open the blade, use gloved hands and hold the coiled blade out from your body. Grab one loop of the coil and shake out the loop to open the blade to ready it for installation.
To check out how to tension your bandsaw correctly using a great little tool visit: "How to Tension Up to 3/4" Bandsaw Blades Perfectly!" :
https://youtu.be/V6_JNlbGNVs
When it comes time to change the tires on your band saw tires, this is our "go-to" technique:
COMG SOON!
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Aphid Control on Milkweed - Monarch Butterfly Habitat
Milkweed is the main host plant for the monarch butterfly. The caterpillars feed on the plant, but if it is compromised with aphids, nutrients are removed that would benefit the monarch.
A soapy water solution, used as a direct contact spray, will kill the aphids. But be careful - as it will harm the monarch caterpillars as well. So, move any caterpillars until after spraying and rinsing, and place them on healthy parts of the plant.
Check out more ideas and a good discussion on this at:
https://www.saveourmonarchs.org/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-aphids-on-milkweed
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Fold a Fitted Sheet the Right Way!
Fitting sheets can be frustrating to fold and many people simply give up and fold them up as best as they can, typically in a wad, and put them in the linen closet. Well, no more!
#foldingsheets #foldingfittedsheets #sheetfoldingtrick
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There’s no reason that you can’t fold up a fitted sheet, with those irritating but necessary elastic edges, so that it is rectangular, flat, and neat. Yes, it’s true!
In this episode, DirtFarmer Maggie will show you have to orient and grasp a fitted sheet in such a way that each of the corner pockets “nest” inside each other and allow you to neatly stow the corners in the interior of the folded sheet.
This results in a symmetrical and neat folded sheet that has fewer wrinkles and stores well after laundering. With a little practice, you can fold sheets in about a minute - seriously!
This is just another skill you can add and one more thing that you can say, JUST DO IT YOURSELF!
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No More Rocking Chair Rocker Water Damage!
It's great to have rockers on your front porch - that is until they are water damaged from the rockers sitting in water puddles on your porch!
#outsidefurniture #outdoorrockingchair #reducerotonoutdoorfurniture
Here's a quick fix using strap aluminum and stainless steel screws! The rocker can then be raised up out of shallow water puddles, keeping the bottom surface of the rocker drier and reducing rot and cracking.
Easy and effective. Just Do It Yourself!
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Dado, Groove, Rabbet, What’s the Difference?
Quick! What’s the difference between a dado, groove and rabbet? They are all related, but are defined differently and have different functions.
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#woodworkingjoints #dadojoint #rabbetjoint
Whether you are a woodworker, maker, or tradesperson, using accurate vocabulary is important. Then you need to know how to make what you are describing, as well as know when that approach is best used.
As for dadoes, rabbets, and grooves (oh my! - with apologies to the Wizard of Oz), keeping them straight can be a challenge. The confusion is only added to as a dado blade is commonly used to cut all three. Even so, whatever blade is used is not what determines what the final cut is called.
Let's begin with a dado. A dado is a rectangular cut, with the sides typically perpendicular to the bottom. There can be exceptions to this, such as when components of a project are being joined to each other at an angle. Usually, the bottom of the cut is at a right angle to the sides. That leads to another attribute of a dado; it has two sides. Additionally, it runs across a panel, typically cross-grain, and perpendicular to the edges.
Next up is a groove. Like a dado, a groove has two sides and a bottom, and the sides, with the exception of angled components, are 90 degrees to the sides. What differentiates it from a dado is that it typically runs the “long” way of a panel, usually with the grain. A place where it is common to see grooves is when drawer bottoms are “let in” to the sides, front, and sometimes the back of the drawer box.
Last is the rabbet. While related to the other cuts/joints, it is different in that it only has two surfaces; the bottom and one side. And, while it can be across or with the grain, it is always located on the edge of a component. The rabbet both adds glue surface and helps register the joint during assembly.
The rabbet, groove, and dado can be cut with a variety of tools, and have been cut way before the advent of power tools. Historically, these joints were cut with specialized planes, or dedicated saws and chisels. There are some that still use these traditional approaches. For power tool users, these joints can be cut using a router or router table, a table saw with a dado head, cross-cut saws, or even circular saws with guides.
Whatever way you approach producing these foundational joints for woodworking and cabinet making, using the correct terminology, knowing when to use each one, and how to efficiently and accurately make rabbet, groove, and dado joints is a skill you’ll use over and over. Just Do It Yourself!
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Stubborn Front Loader Washer Stink No More!
#washerstink #frontloaderwasherstink #nomorewasherstink
We've published several episodes about front loader washer stink, but sometimes the smell can be really persistent!
Viewers have given a lot of positive feedback on other episodes we've published on keeping a front loader washer pristine and smelling fresh. One of the episodes featured viewer tips and insights. The vast majority of the time, viewers have said the practices solved the odor problem and returned their washer to "like new" performance.
It usually boils down to ventilating the machine to allow it to dry internally and properly using laundry products, typically using much less than one would think is needed. They don't call these machines "high efficiency (HE)" for nothing!
However, some have had persistent machine odor problems. In this episode, DirtFarmerJay shows the top three practices that can address where residues have built up in the machine and are resistant to maintenance practices. In these stubborn cases, these problem residues and build-ups need to be addressed to "reset" the machine.
We really enjoy our machine and have now entirely eliminated ANY odor or significant residue accumulation. We're confident you can enjoy the same experience.
Just Do It Yourself!
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The BEST French-Press Coffee - WIBBLE!
The French press method for making a cup of coffee is fantastic, and EVEN BETTER when you wibble! Huh? You’ll love this simple method for getting the very best coffee flavor!
#frenchpresscoffee #wibblecoffee #wibbleforbestcoffeeflavor
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We really enjoy our morning coffee (and sometimes throughout the day, too!), and use a French Press in our beverage preparations. We’ve used other methods through the years, including old-style percolators, Kuerig® and Mr. Coffee® type machines, and pods. We settled on the French press for its ongoing simplicity and great economics.
One of the secrets of great coffee making is to get the flavor of the roasted coffee bean without getting the oils and bitterness from the coffee bean exterior. This is one of the great weaknesses of percolator and “pour-over” types where the hot water is rinsed over the grounds. While the flavor of the interior of the beans is being extracted, the not-as-desirable flavors of the bean exterior come along too. Whatever you can do to maximize interior flavor and minimize bean exterior flavor/oil is a good thing.
Enter the French Press and wibbling.
Ever heard of wibbling? Neither had we until we recently were enjoying an episode of “Brokenwood Mysteries.” Filmed in New Zealand, it’s a hoot to learn dialects and differences in terminology between their culture and ours. In one episode, an endearing elderly ongoing supporting character, Jean Marlowe, stops by the Police Station and visits with one of the young detectives, Kristin Sims. Kristin is not known for her coffee-making acumen - but offers a cup to Jean. Upon tasting it, Ms. Marlow makes an unpleasant face and asks Det. Sims, “Did you wibble, dear?”
Following up on Jean Marlowe’s demonstration of how to wibble properly, we found it was real and mastered the technique of letting coffee brew in the French Press for a few minutes, and then gently shaking the press to and fro for several seconds. This will release the crema in the grounds floating on the top, squeezing out even more delicious coffee flavor.
Give it a try and you’ll be visiting the local coffee shop a lot less. Sure you can buy that artisan cup of coffee, but now, you can JUST DO IT YOURSELF!
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How to Open Stitched Bags - Viewer Tips!
#openstitchedbags #openfeedbags #chainstitchedgrainbags
Products that are packaged in stitched bags can be a real hassle - until you know the trick to getting them open - without resorting to slashing the bag open with a utility knife!
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A wide variety of products come in stitched top bags, including rice, birdseed, grains, livestock feed, and bulk flour. How to open them is complicated by the fact that there is more than one stitch pattern, some come with reinforcement tape, while other products have stitching directly through the bag material with no tape.
After broadcasting our first episode on this topic, many commented it solved their problem and that they could now open stitched bags on their first try. Others wrote in to say that the method didn’t work for them, that the stitch looked different than the one we used, or that there was no tape to use as a reference to figure out what direction to start undoing the stitch from. So much for absolutes!
For instance, DFJ Subscriber “Good Egg” said, “for some reason, this didn't work on a Swagat Sona Massoori 20 lb Rice bag. Not sure if it's an operator error or not.” Another viewer, E DR, stated, “Didn't work on my rice bag from Thailand, either. The string zips from left to right, unlike in Dirt Farmer Jay's video…”
Viewer Cindy Wyatt continued with, “these (the type with a paper tape backer) I can deal with! It is the ones WITHOUT the tape that give me a fit. I hope you made a vid for that kind too. The ones that have feed and seed in them. Thanks!”
With the dose of reality from our viewers for situations where what we showed in the first episode did not work for them, this second episode will help. We are sure there are exceptions, but we are confident that what we show you in this episode will address many more types of bags.
NO TTER THE TYPE OF STITCH YOU ARE DEALG WITH, you know that it was stitched together using intertwining loops, so there has to be a way to reverse the stitch. It’s that simple. What isn’t so simple is figuring out how to reverse the stitch. But, a great starting point for “flat-type” stitches is to figure out which is the “front” and “back” side. That may or may not align with the front and back of the package!
So that we are all using the same terminology, The “front” has only one stitch, and the “back” has multiple interwoven stitches.
With those definitions in mind, here’s a great tip from DFJ Subscriber Jonathan Pendley: “Another way to orientate your way to the bag is to straddle the bag with the single (“front”) string to your right and pick the single string (furthest from you) to unzip the bag (back towards you).”
Viewer C N asked, “What about bags without pull tape? Such as Pennington® birdseed?”
These are like the bags of rice that are packaged in Asian and South Asian countries. The stitch may actually begin before the bag, stitch into the bag material, and continue past the other side. The “braid” on both edges of the bag is typically tubular in shape instead of flat.
No matter. The same approach Jonathan Pendley recommends still works. Situate the bag so that when your stand over it with a leg to each side of the bag, the single stitch is on your right. Then, beginning on the end furthest from you, pick apart the end until you have two opposing strings sticking out. Tug the string ends apart from each other, and the stitch will “un-zip.”
Here’s one more tip for this type of “tubular” stitch. On the stitch side that has multiple strings, you’ll see that the chain stitch forms a series of little triangles that look somewhat like arrowheads. The wide end of the arrowheads indicates what end of the stitch to start “unzipping” from.
Here’s a bonus tip supplied by DFJ Viewer Family Member jdizzle6911, who said, “Another trick is to undo it halfway and then put the string through one of the loops to make it stay half sealed and half-open to pour the contents out without a big mess.” Ingenious, jdizzle6911!
There you have it. Yet another skill that you have and helps you to “Just Do It Yourself!”
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DeWalt String Trimmer 2 Year Review
#DeWalt #DCST922stringtrimmer #toolreview
We bought the DeWalt® 20-Volt Cordless Trimmer in August 2020 and have been using it for about 2 years now. How is it doing?
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We have a significant amount of trimming to do around our yardscape. About 2 years ago, we made the switch from a Troybilt® gas-powered string trimmer to a DeWalt® 20-Volt battery DCST922 string trimmer. Our impression of the tool and its capabilities was favorable during the unboxing, setup, and initial use. You can see that episode at:
https://youtu.be/V3ASeJsh718
It’s been 2 years, and we've put the tool to hard use around here. It’s used to trim all along our lawn’s edge, which may be curbing, rock, fence posts, soil, and so forth. Further, we use the trimmer to live up to the common name for this tool; whack weeds. When springtime comes on, the weeds really get a jump start and this tool really helps take off the top growth before other measures are employed.
Do we like the tool now? Is it holding up and still performing strong? YES! The tool’s appearance obviously shows use, but the machine runs strong, runs dependably, and is still easy to load new string as needed. We can usually do our whole lawn edging, running on high (there is a low), on one charge.
It is light enough that DirtFarmer Maggie can use it (but honestly, it’s usually me that uses it, she is doing the mowing typically), and we really like the contrast with gas-powered models - which tend to be finicky, require significant maintenance, and don’t always start easily. With a battery-powered unit, it starts or it doesn’t. Simple, and no hassle.
We think that we’ll have this tool around a long time, and its battery is the same as all the other DeWalt® tools we have in the home and shop.
If there is one complaint, it is that the tool we have was made in China. I think you should work to support the country and workforce of the country you are located in, no matter where you are in the world. Surely a company the size of DeWalt® (and other competing brands) could do more to create its own “on-shore” manufacturing base.
In the meantime, when it comes to everyday living, we encourage you to “Just Do It Itself!”
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How Good is the Gopher Hawk Gopher Trap?
#gopherhawk #gophertrap #killinggophers
The GopherHawk gopher trap is a good solution to controlling gophers - once you understand how a gopher thinks, and how to best place and monitor the trap. DirtFarmerJay demonstrates!
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Gophers are a real problem around our place. Because gophers readily grow or replenish their population they rarely can be eliminated, but they can be controlled. If there is a gopher problem on your property, it will not solve itself. Gophers continually expand their range, so you must be vigilant and use control methods to eliminate incursions into your yard.
In this episode, DirtFarmerJay shows you how to utilize a “stick” type trap made by GopherHawk®. This device was recommended to us by one of the DFJ viewer family members after he viewed our earlier video, “How to Win the War Against Gophers.” We showed several devices and methods on the market for gopher control but spent some time emphasizing the “smoke” type cartridges that are ignited and inserted into gopher runs to kill the rodents.
Our viewer said there is a better way, so we checked it out! We contacted the GopherHawk® company and they sent us one for testing. We also purchased a set of replacement straps so we could keep our trap in great operating condition for a long time to come. You can buy the GopherHawk® trap as a single or in sets, along with parts, by visiting www.gopherhawk.com.
The GopherHawk® requires locating the underground run using the included probe, making a hole down into the run, and then setting the trap. If the trap is set off, there is an indicator on the shaft of the trap above ground. There are two big advantages to this approach. First, there is minimal damage to the yard or bed when setting the trap. Second, you know when the trap has “fired.”
However, there are a few tips and tricks we show you to help you be successful with this trapping approach, along with a recommendation of keeping repair parts on hand for ongoing use of the gear.
Sure, you can call for a professional exterminator to rid your yardscape of gopher invaders, but why? Now you have another approach to allow you to “Just Do It Yourself!”
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The Best Liquid Detergent?
Our preference has been to use powdered detergents - but we thought we’d try Swash after having it recommended to us. What do we think? Watch and see.
#liquiddetergentreview #swashdetergent #bestliquiddetergent
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We’ve got a front loader washer, and we love it. It does a great job quickly and it is very convenient to use. One thing we didn’t like was it had a tendency to, well, stink. As it turns out, that was our fault. The manufacturer’s instructions told us EXACTLY what to do (but, who reads those?), but we used the same practices that we had for our old top loader. The main problem was improper ventilation.
Another culprit was some of the liquid laundry products (detergent and softener) we were using. These products encouraged the build-up of biologically-active deposits in the “innards” of the machine. We switched to powdered detergent, and quit using softener (which may contain a form of animal tallow or fats). This really helped us maintain machine freshness.
We published three different very popular episodes on getting rid of the odor in a front-loading laundry machine, as well as how they work, why they wash so well, and what our viewers had to say about ways to keep your front loader fresh and maintained. You can watch those episodes here:
https://youtu.be/qkJ9y58lZGk
https://youtu.be/TfGgsvG8vLA
https://youtu.be/N4Bd9fzoe6U
Along the way, we started to hear from our viewers about a new product named Swash. It is manufactured by Whirlpool Corporation, is concentrated, and costs about 30¢ per load including shipping in the United States.
At the time of this filming, you can only purchase the product from Whirlpool directly or through their Amazon store. The Swash® website is www.swash.com. The product comes in three versions, one is no scent or color, one is fresh linen, and the other is a tropical fruit citrusy version called Simply Sunrise. The product comes in a 30 fluid ounce (887.2 mL) bottle, with a pre-measured dispenser cap. Each bottle does 83 standard loads. If you pay right at $18 for a bottle, plus shipping and tax, you should expect to pay about $25 for a bottle, equating to about 30¢ per load.
Bottom line? We’ve washed nearly 100 loads with this product now, and have been pleased with its cleansing power. We’ve also had no odor problems with the machine since implementing the use of Swash. We also like Swash’s economics and have ordered more. There you have it!
JUST DO IT YOURSELF.
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Easy DIY Kitchen Disposal Replacement
#garbagedisposal #disposalreplacement #diygarbagedisposalinstall
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Like many of today’s appliances, the food waste disposer was at one time a luxury but is thought of as a necessity in today’s kitchen. Commonly known as a garbage disposal, kitchen waste disposal, or a “Dispose-All”, these sink accessories are designed to grind up organic food waste only to be rinsed into the plumbing system and then into the municipal wastewater system or the home’s septic tank.
Disposer units are typically equipped with a port to attach the waste tube of a standard dishwasher. The grinder in the dishwasher then will eject ground food waste from the dishwashing process into the disposer unit and into the plumbing system. If there is no need for such a connection, then take care not to knock out the slug in the dishwasher hose connection port - opening the port is irreversible.
Like any device, time and repeated use will take a toll on the disposer unit. Before replacing one, it’s important to unplug it and attempt to clear any jams that have occurred by using the unit’s hex key offset wrench to rotate the motor back and forth while running water into the sink the unit is mounted in.
If the unit still doesn’t run, or runs with a high amount of noise, or has developed a leak, it’s time to replace it. Fortunately, this is pretty easy to do with a little bit of know-how, basic tools, and a moderate investment in a new unit.
Various models and price points are available for food disposal units. The difference is are the material used for construction, the horsepower of the motor, if food waste is ground in one or two stages, and the quietness rating of the appliance. Higher-end units have stainless steel housings (instead of aluminum), more horsepower, 2 stages, and lower sound emission. You get what you pay for.
At the time of the filming of this episode, the price range for these units was between $85 and $225.
You can pay a plumber to remove your old unit and install the new one, but why? It’s a pretty easy job, with minimal tools needed, and you can JUST DO IT YOURSELF!
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Magic Formula for Drawing Octagons
#octagon #octagonratio #drawoctagon
The formula for drawing a beautiful octagon may seem magic, but it’s simple math using the .414 ratio!
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In other episodes, we’ve addressed various methods for drawing or cutting octagons.
“Create A Perfect Octagon Every Time!” is a fast and low-tech method to draw an octagon when you know the side-to-side dimension of the octagon you want. This approach only takes a ruler, pen, and compass. You can check that episode out at:
https://youtu.be/cKqHsCukfTQ
“EZ Method to Cut Octagon Stock” is a great way to cut octagonal column-shaped pieces - and requires no calculations. This is great for cutting off the corners of turning stock. Check it out at:
https://youtu.be/XtNolBrs8R8
Use this website for definitions of different parts/segments of octagons - https://www.omnicalculator.com/math/octagon
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