Brownells, Inc.

Open up a tall beverage and grab some snacks because Brownells Gun Tech™ Caleb Savant is here to show us how to upgrade an AK rifle with the Midwest Industries AK Alpha Series components. AK Alpha components bring a new level of comfort, control, and versatility to your Kalashnikov. Caleb will be installing them on an old, totally basic Interarms AK-74. He walks us step-by-step through installing the AK Alpha Picatinny Stock Adapter, AK Alpha Gen2 Handguard, AK Alpha Optic Mount, AK Alpha Railed Top Cover, and the Alpha Stock. TOOLS: Typical of Kalashnikov work, this process doesn't require a lot of tools. MI thoughtfully includes the necessary hex wrenches to install their parts. You'll also need safety glasses, a bench vise, nylon-head gunsmithing hammer, and Midwest's own AK Receiver Maintenance Block (vise block), which works on both 7.62x39 and 5.45x39 AKs. SAFETY FIRST: Before you start actual work, Step #1 is to make sure the rifle is unloaded. Step #2 is to repeat Step #1. OUT WITH THE OLD: Field strip the rifle to remove the dust cover, recoil spring, and bolt assembly. Remove the gas tube and upper handguard assembly. We'll be re-using the tube. Remove the lower half of the handguard - Caleb shows us the trick for doing it. If you're installing the Alpha Picatinny Stock Adapter, remove the buttstock and the pistol grip. A wood stock can be a bit stubborn about parting from the receiver. Caleb shows us the RIGHT way to apply some gentle persuasion with a hammer and punch. The tail protruding from the rear trunnion has to be removed with a hack saw or a cut-off wheel in your Dremel Tool. Do this ONLY if you intend to convert your rifle to an M1913 Picatinny stock. Don't make the cut right up against the receiver. Leave a little metal standing proud of the receiver, and file it down perfectly flush. Test fit the Picatinny Stock Adapter as you work. If there's a gap between it and the rear of the receiver, file off a bit more material. When you're done, the hole in the top of the adapter should line up with the hole in the trunnion. ON WITH THE NEW: Adjust the tension blocks on the Picatinny stock adapter so the fit inside the receiver is tight and requires a BIT of persuasion from the hammer. Torque the screw that goes through the top of the trunnion into the adapter to 35-in. lbs. To keep it from backing out, secures it with a dab of Vibra-Tite. Now you can reinstall the pistol grip. Let's move to the front of the receiver and install the Alpha Series Gen2 Handguard. You will probably have to file off some material from the tenons on the rear of the handguard to get them to fit into the receiver. MI makes them oversized so you can achieve a tight, wobble-free fit. Test fit often and stop filing when the fit is still very snug. A tap of the hammer may be needed to seat the handguard, but it should be loose enough to remove it without tools. Moving to the top of the receiver, Caleb shows us how to install both the AK Alpha Optic Mount and, for the maximum expanse of optic-mounting real estate, the Picatinny Railed Top Cover. Both anchor to the Alpha handguard. For the Picatinny top cover, you'll also replace the rifle's existing recoil spring guide with one that has a clip at the back for retaining the rear of the top cover. You'll have a "rock solid" platform that will not wobble and cause your optic to lose its zero.

For products used in this video: https://www.brownells.com/the-trigger-times/tips--tricks/quick-tips/quick-tip-the-right-way-to-stake-an-ar-15-castle-nut/ Forget what you just read on Reddit and Facebook. There are plenty of wrong ways to stake an AR-15's castle nut. Then there's Caleb's Way, which he's going to demonstrate for us today. The castle nut threads onto the receiver extension (aka buffer tube) and locks the extension to the receiver. It's called a "castle nut" because of the evenly spaced wrench notches that make it look like the top of a medieval castle's tower. You stake the castle nut to the receiver endplate to prevent it from backing out, which in turn prevents the receiver extension from working loose. Caleb demonstrates with a Geissele buffer tube, Bravo Company endplate, and a Forward Controls Design Castle Nut FCD. You'll need a bench vise, lower receiver vise block, cross-peen hammer, and a center punch - pointed tip or square tip is fine. Do not use a woodworker's countersink punch! Before he begins, Caleb shows us an example of how NOT to stake the castle nut: too shallow, with mere surface damage to the nut and endplate. You've gotta move some metal to do a proper staking job! There are three small, shallow notches on the side of the castle nut that faces the rear of the receiver. Position the punch with its tip covering about half the depth of the endplate directly opposite a notch. Hold the punch so it stands straight out from the side of the endplate - don't angle it. Lightly tap it several times with the hammer to start making an indent in the endplate. Once you've made a nice indent to keep the tip of the punch from slipping, you can apply harder hammer strikes, but DO NOT whale on it! When you're done, you should have a neat, circular dimple in the endplate, with a good bit of metal smooshed (technical term) into the notch in the castle nut. For an extra-secure installation, stake one of the other two notches in the castle nut. (You don't have to do all three.) That castle nut is NOT coming loose without your help! Is staking really necessary? Find out in our earlier video "Smyth Busters: Does an AR-15 Castle Nut Have To Be Staked?" Get the details on FCD's upgraded castle nut: "Product Spotlight: Forward Controls CNF Castle Nut"

Don't miss part 1: https://rumble.com/v58x84y-building-an-accurate-ar15-part-1-the-upper-receiver.html In today's video, we're continuing our series on building an accurate AR-15. This second part focuses on the lower receiver, bipods, optics, and other essential components. Whether you're a seasoned builder or new to AR-15s, this guide will help you enhance your rifle's performance. Chapters: 0:00 - Introduction 0:13 - Lower Receiver Overview 0:24 - Choosing the Right Lower Receiver 1:03 - Importance of a Tensioning Screw 1:50 - Stock Selection for Stability 2:17 - Tools for the Build 2:29 - Installing the Magazine Catch 3:47 - Installing the Bolt Catch 6:48 - Installing the Pivot Pin 9:11 - Installing the Trigger Guard 12:15 - Installing the Trigger (Geissele SSA-E) 13:58 - Installing the Hammer 14:45 - Installing the Selector Lever (Radian) 16:53 - Installing the Grip (Diemaco Kung Fu Grip) 19:33 - Installing the Law Tactical Folding Stock Adapter 23:58 - Installing the Receiver Extension and Stock 25:48 - Installing the Buffer and Spring (Sprinco) 28:14 - Installing the B5 Precision Stock 29:41 - Installing the Charging Handle and Bolt 30:06 - Attaching the Upper Receiver 30:43 - Installing the Optic Mount (Trijicon Q-LOC) 31:48 - Installing the Scope (Vortex Venom) 33:24 - Final Adjustments and Leveling 36:55 - Installing the Bipod 47:02 - Adjusting the Tensioning Screw 50:22 - Conclusion and Final Thoughts Product Highlights: Brownells Lower Receiver: Featuring a tensioning screw for a solid fit. Geissele SSA-E Trigger: Known for its smooth pull and reliability. Radian Selector Lever: Ambidextrous and easy to install. Diemaco Kung Fu Grip: Ergonomic and comfortable. Law Tactical Folding Stock Adapter: Adds versatility and ease of storage. Sprinco Rifle Spring: Ensures reliable cycling. B5 Precision Stock: Offers great adjustability and comfort. Trijicon Q-LOC Optic Mount: Secure and easy to adjust. Vortex Venom Scope: First focal plane with a 3-15x44 magnification.

Check out Part 2: https://rumble.com/v58xh6z-building-an-accurate-ar15-part-2-the-lower-receiver.html In today's Tech Tip, we're kicking off our "How to Build an Accurate AR-15" series. In this first video, we'll dive into selecting the right components and understanding why each choice matters. Whether you're a seasoned builder or a newcomer, this guide will help you get started on building a highly accurate AR-15. Chapters: 0:00 - Introduction 0:13 - Common Misconceptions and Clarifications 0:54 - Choosing a Quality Upper Receiver 1:07 - Selecting the Barrel: Brownells Mark 18 1:43 - Geissele Mark 18 Handguard: Versatility and Rigidity 2:20 - The Best Adjustable Gas Block: Rifle Speed 2:44 - JMAC Custom Muzzle Brake 3:10 - Visual Inspection of Upper Receivers 4:55 - Importance of a Quality Bolt Carrier Group 6:00 - Forward Assist and Its Function 6:58 - Barrel Selection: Muzzle Crown and Shoulder 8:25 - Inspecting Feed Ramps 10:12 - Choosing the Right Handguard and Barrel Nut 11:15 - Controversial Topic: Barrel Bedding 13:10 - Thermo-fit and Why It’s Helpful 13:47 - Conclusion and Next Steps Product Highlights: SilencerCo Billet Upper Receiver: Chosen for its tight fit and excellent machining. Brownells Mark 18 Barrel: Premium choice for accuracy and reliability. Geissele Mark 18 Handguard: Provides versatility and rigidity with an ARCA rail. Rifle Speed Adjustable Gas Block: Best on the market for easy adjustment and cleaning. JMAC Custom Muzzle Brake: Compatible with chemo suppressors. Thermo-fit Technology: Discussing its benefits and when it might be necessary.