Just Do It Yourself!

We don’t like to cool our entire home when we only need cooling where we are most of the time. How did the NewAir NEC500SI00 stack up for smaller area cooling? #coolingfan #coolingpad #cooling Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop This portable combination fan and cooler is a great addition to our home. For those that live in drier climates, the optional evaporative cooling feature allows you to direct cool air directly into an area without having to cool the entire home. If you live in a high-humidity area, evaporative cooling has minimal effect, so that feature on this fan unit will not be of much value to you. The unit is attractive and a nice size. It can be set to 3 different speeds, with and without evaporative cooling. The water reservoir is large enough that it doesn't run out too quickly. There are different modes, including speed changes, timer, and "swing", which blows the air in a random pattern. It's pretty quiet, too. While minor, there were a few things that we think could be improved. Learning the different settings is a bit of a challenge, and isn't entirely intuitive. Fortunately, there is a guide that you can work through to understand what the different settings do. Secondly, to add water to the reservoir, there isn't a door that you can flip open and pour water in. You need to pull the drawer partially open, and pour water in that way. This is minor, but it would be better with the access door. Also, you need to be careful with a full reservoir when rolling the unit around as it can slosh water on your floor! Overall, we think it's a good value and allows you to spot cool an area, and the timer feature is handy (it can be set in 1/2 hour increments up to 7.5 hours) for bedtime until the room cools down at night. The unit is serviceable and looks like it will serve us well! We'll come back and do another review in a year to let you know if our initial impressions hold up. If you’d like to buy one of these, you can get 10% off of your purchase price by utilizing this link: https://glnk.io/m38y/dirtfarmerjay and promo code: FARMERJAY10. We think you’ll be happy with the unit, or we wouldn’t be recommending it! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

The job of securing a load with a ratchet strap isn’t done until the excess strap (“tail”) is secured as well. Here is the best method we’ve found so far, and we really like it. We think you will too. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop #tiedowns #ratchetstrap #securingloads It’s easy to focus on the “business end” of a tie-down strap when the load has been secured by the ratcheting action of the handle and hub. However, the job isn’t done until the surplus end is gathered and secured. Flapping loose ends not only fray and wear the strap, but it’s dangerous. One of my family members failed to secure the end of the strap that was securing a load in his pickup truck. On the freeway, going about 75 mph, there was a sudden explosion of glass from the back window. He thought they had been shot at - no joke. The tail had flapped its way under the truck and got wound up on the drive shaft. The strap wound up and snapped while pulling the metal hook loose off its connection to the truck bed and turning it into a projectile that went through the cab’s back window. The load was now loose as well. One of our viewer family members also related observing a large flatbed trailer with the tail end flapping off the side. It wound up under the trailer’s tires at high speed, snapping the strap in two and displacing the load. Again, it could have been really bad. Lesson learned? Securing the end is part of securing the load. In fact, it’s usually the law. Load securement includes tail end safety. In the U.S., the DOT (Department of Transportation) takes this very seriously. DirtFarmerJay shows you his favorite method to stow the tail end securely, but easily undone when it comes time to release the load and stow the ratchet strap set. Here’s DirtFarmerJay’s favorite method for stowing a ratchet strap set: COMG SOON! Don’t be embarrassed if every time you use a ratchet strap, you have trouble threading it property , Don’t you just love being able to do stuff? JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon

Canola oil is a relatively new product, and if someone tells you they have raised canola plants, they are having fun at your expense! Tune in and learn why! #canolaoil #rapeseedoil #rapeplant Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Canola oil is a relative newcomer to the grocery shelf. One of several types of “vegetable oil”, it didn’t become available to the American consumer until about 1986. There is no such thing as a canola plant. Canola oil is actually from rapeseed. The seeds are from the rape plant, which is a member of the Brassica family. Gardeners will recognize other brassicas such as cabbage, mustard greens, and Brussels Sprouts. The rape plant, rapeseed, and rapeseed oil has been around for a long time, but it’s easy to see that the plant and its products have a branding problem! It’s not only the offensive name but the undesirable characteristics of rapeseed oil that had to be bred out over time. It also has to be processed in a certain way to produce the mild-flavored oil we now know as canola oil. The Canadian seed oil industry rebranded the product in 1978. “Canola” is loosely based on “Canadian Oil.” It’s become very popular - accounting for about 1/3rd of the cooking oil production in the world! The journey from rapeseed to finished canola oil is somewhat complex, The basic process consists of separating the seed, then slightly heating it and crushing the seed. The vast majority of commercial canola oil is then extracted using a hexane solvent. This solvent is recovered at the end of the process. Final processing consists of using water and organic acid to remove gumminess and fatty acids. The oil is then filtered and steam distilled to deodorize it. And there you have it. One of the most successful rebranding stories of all time, right there in your kitchen pantry. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay

When it comes time to replace or repair window or door screens at your home, you can just do it yourself! The supplies are readily available, and only simple tools are needed. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop #screenrepair #screenreplacement Screen repair or replacement is surprisingly simple and takes only a minimum of tools: a tape measure, hacksaw, masking tape, and needle-nosed pliers. The supplies are easily obtainable at your local home-improvement store. You’ll need replacement screen, screen spline, and a spline roller. If you are also replacing the frame, you’ll need frame stock, corners, tabs, and screen frame tension springs. All of these are easily obtainable and at a very reasonable price. If at all possible, use the existing frame to measure from. This will reduce measuring errors. If the screen frame is heavily damaged or missing, you’ll need to measure the opening into which the screen will be placed. You will need to subtract about 1/8” top to bottom, and up to ½” side to side to allow the screen room to be placed in the opening, pushed to one side, and fit into the space it will be held in. If you are using the existing frame, use your needle-nosed pliers to grip the old spline at a beginning point and pull it out carefully. Hold the frame to the work surface as you go to avoid bending the frame or breaking the corners. Once all is cleared out and the screen removed, you are ready to place a new screen, using properly sized spline material. Cut a piece of replacement screen about 2” oversized both in width and height. Center the screen over the frame and make sure the pattern in the screen is running square to the frame. If you like, you can tape the screen to the work surface along the top edge to resist movement as you begin installing the spline. Beginning in the lower lefthand corner, press in the spline and work counterclockwise across the bottom and up the righthand side. As you come back across the top, right to left, make sure this is a slight amount of slack in the screen so that when the spline is pressed in, the screen is taut, but not overly tight to either tear the screen or to “hourglass” the frame. In large screens, it’s helpful to place spacers between the top and bottom frame pieces, to resist bowing while the screen is being splined in place. If the screen frame needs to be replaced, determine the finished screen size and cut the frame pieces to length, shortening each piece by the amount used up by the corner piece. The pieces can be cut using a hacksaw, or even a carbide circular blade on a miter saw. If cutting by hand, be sure to support the frame stock so that it is not distorted when you cut it. Before assembling the frame with the four corner pieces, be sure to install any frame springs and pull tabs. The frame springs are usually secured by the corners, so don’t get ahead of yourself! Once the frame is assembled, then you can proceed to install the screen as outlined above. It takes a little practice, and we mean that literally. After working with the materials and the tools only for a bit, you’ll have the process going smoothly with great results, and you’ll enjoy being able to replace or repair window screens easily and economically. Why? Because you JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

#tape #maskingtape #ducttape It's a hassle losing the end of the tape as it sticks to the roll and you need to locate it the next time you go to work with your project! There's a better way. When you first open the tape or are finished using it each time, simply insert a small object like a penny, a medium-sized washer, a bread-bag closure tab, or a paper clip under the end as you get ready to stow the roll. When you need the tape the next time, you'll immediately locate the end, and be able to easily lift it and do what you need to do. Simple, cheap, effective. JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

These triangular magnets cling tenaciously to any ferrous metal surface, allowing you to make use of them for several purposes. Our favorites include as a temporary fence or stop block on a table saw or band saw top, as well as routing lamp and power cords as needed. While the 90° angle on the sides is close enough to temporarily hold ferrous metal perpendicular to each other until they are joined via welding, I wouldn't count on them to be absolutely square! Do you have some uses in the shop that you'd like to pass along? Let us know. JUST DO IT YOURSELF

Awnings are literally a cool addition to add to your home. We had fabric-covered units and didn’t like how they performed or looked - so we re-skinned them with metal. You can do the same thing! #metalawnings #awning #awnings Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop The south-facing windows on our home have awnings on them. The summer room temperatures in those rooms are almost impossible to control without the windows being shaded. We love what the awnings do for creature comfort, but we were not pleased with the covering performance or appearance of our awnings. A common approach for awning coverings is specially treated fabrics meant to resist the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays - which fade and “sun-rot” the fabric over time. The first coverings we had were a dark gray, but they didn’t last long and the manufacturer replaced it with our choice of a more sun-resistant fabric (even though the first one we had in the original installation was supposed to be). We saw fading and discoloration beginning again after a couple of seasons, and frankly, we didn’t like the striped look - it didn’t go with anything else on the house! DirtFarmerMaggie suggested we cover them with metal. At first, I thought this was a way too ambitious project, but the more I thought about it, the more it made sense. We were getting the house painted, and white metal awnings would look and perform WAY better than what we had. Join me as I walk you through the process of “re-skinning” the awnings, and some tips and tricks learned along the way. While we were able to “repurpose” our existing awning frames, you may not have that luxury and need to start from scratch. If you do, here are some basic dimensions and proportions to remember. First, you want the shade about the top 2/5ths of the window. That means that the bottom edge of both the front and sides of the awning should not rest any more than about 2/5ths of the distance from the top of the window and certainly more than one-half. Second, you can have the front edge be narrow, or have a skirt along the front (like we did). We think the skirt, which is about 4” tall, looks classy. Third, the angle the top runs down is about 45 degrees (or for you roof builders - 12/12 pitch). Fourth, overbuild. Attach skins to the framework with lots of pop rivets where the connection allows and use lots of “metal-building” screws elsewhere. These units are going to be exposed to the elements - including high winds, so make them stout. Finally, the frames are attached to the house using specialized clips that the awning hangs on, and then the bottom of the sides are drilled into the house. These are not moving! We are really pleased with how these turned out. Not only do they look fantastic and are extremely durable - but there’s NOTHG like the sound of the rain on them. Sure, you can have someone do this for you, but why? JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https://www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

#electricwire #wiregauge #electriccable The gauge system for U.S. wire and cable seems to make no sense at all! The larger the number the smaller the wire? What gives? Wire and cable in the U.S. are sized using the AWG (American Wire Gauge) system. This system is not universal, there are at least two others in the world. In the U.S., the AWG number indicates the size of wire (single conductor) or cable (multiple conductors in a single sheath). But why the inverse relationship between gauge number and diameter (and associated current carrying capacity)? When wire manufacturing first began, the number of times the wire was drawn and stretched was the gauge number. The more times the wire was stretched, the smaller the diameter. Now, that makes sense - once you know the story. Visit us at dirtfarmerjay.com for bonus blog and recipe content, and dirtfarmerjay.com/store for great shirts, stout coffee mugs, and hats that will get the word out that when it comes time to fix or build something around your place, you JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

#rebar #concrete #rebarproject Rebar stands for "reinforcing bar" - used in concrete construction in a wide range of applications. Whether columns, slabs, foundations, sidewalks, decks, or driveways, rebar is the "go-to" method of reinforcing concrete. Concrete possesses high compression strength. When forces are weighing down on it or pushing in on it, it is quite robust. But when the concrete is placed in tension (forces pulling it apart), its tensile strength is not very high all on its own. Cracks will tend to appear. That's where rebar comes in. The ridges on the rebar give something for the dried concrete to grip and stay in place. Rebar can strengthen columns too. Sufficient rebar carries weight on its own so the concrete in the column doesn't have to carry as much weight. But what is up with rebar sizes? #3? #8? #4 and so on? Why not just call out the rebar diameter in 1/8" increments, such as 3/8", 1/2", or 5/8"? The answer is simple. Rebar is sized in the number of 1/8" increments. So, #3 is 3/8", #4 is 4/8th's (1/2") and #8 is 8/8th's (1"). Cool, huh? If you liked this, visit us at dirtfarmerjay.com for bonus blog and recipe content, and dirtfarmerjay.com/store for great shirts, stout coffee mugs, and hats that will get the word out that when it comes time to fix or build something around your place, you JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

Signs, banners, apparel, and tarps all can have grommets installed in them. We’ll show you how to use an inexpensive kit as well as a grommet machine to install grommet reinforcements. Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop #tarps #bannergrommets #howtoinstallagrommet #grommetsizes Grommets are metal reinforcement rings installed to strengthen the area of material where ties, ropes, cable ties, or bungee cords will be pulling on the material. This can be for camping gear such as tarps, sunshades, or tents. Outdoor banner signs are another common application where the sign is affixed to posts or a crossbar. The attachment points need to be very strong to resist wind pressure without tearing out. Grommets are also used with shoes and other apparel items to reinforce where lacing secures the item. In this episode, DirtFarmerJay will show you how to grommet using both an inexpensive grommet tool and supply kit as well as a grommet machine. The machine makes sense if you are doing a lot of grommets on materials that can easily be flattened (vinyl, tarp sheeting, fabric). We are event organizers (with plenty of banner signs!) and found that using a machine is much easier and more efficient. The initial investment (about $80) will be recouped very soon in consistent results and speed of completion. Whether using a kit or machine, the process means choosing a grommet location that is far enough “into” the material that the grommet resists tearing out under tension. If the material can be doubled by folding over the edge or in a doubled-over hem, all the better. Once the location is chosen, a hole is punched through the material. The hole matches the size of the grommet. Common sizes are #0 (6 mm, roughly ¼”), #2 (9.5 mm, roughly ⅜”), and #4 (12 mm, roughly ½”). We typically use #2 and #4 grommets. In manual kits, this is done by striking a punch with a hammer and driving it through the material into a wooden backing block. An anvil is placed under the material facing up with the “male” part of the grommet set on top of the anvil with the barrel of the grommet protruding up through the hole. The grommet washer (“female” side) is then placed on top of the material over and around the grommet barrel. The two then are pounded together using the inserting punch. It’s pretty straightforward but very manual. The benefits are that for doing a few grommets from time to time, this is very inexpensive and the space needed is very small. This is because you take the tool to the work. The grommet machine makes the process speedier with much more consistency. The machine can typically accommodate different-sized grommets by changing out the anvil and punch plate. You bring the material to the machine, as the machine is mounted or clamped onto a work surface with space to both sides of it. This allows you to unroll material on one side and roll it back up on the other. The machine uses the barrel of the male portion of the grommet to punch the material at the same time the barrel is being pushed into the grommet washer and cinched. The machine we have allows you to place grommets about 3 -4” from the edge if need be. We bought our machine from DIYOutlet.com for about $80, plus shipping. We think it’s well made, intuitive to use (even though it comes with a pictorial instruction manual), and installs grommets flawlessly. Here’s the (just about the longest!) URL for the machine at DIY Outlet: https://thediyoutlet.com/products/grommet-mahine-w-0-2-4-dies-900-grommets?token=68da5fdfc9cc06d6b35e2d174f00ca748ec640d0&utm_source=yotpo&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=map&ref=yotpo_8 When you’ve got a lot of grommets to install, you don’t need to have the supplier do them and charge you for the service. Now, you can JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

#garagedooropener #garagedoor #garagedoors When you use your garage door opener’s paired car remote or wall-mounted control, the door opens and closes instantly without delay, sound, or lights flashing. But when you use the app your door opener’s manufacturer supplied, the door will open right away, but if you close the door, the delay, sound, and light flashes begin. Why all the drama? What’s wrong? Well, actually, NOTHG. This is a safety feature. Because you can operate the door from anywhere that has wifi or cell phone signal, you don’t know for sure if someone is by the door when it is being lowered. The delay, loud beeps, and flashing lights all are warnings to those by the door that it is getting ready to come down. And - that’s a good thing! Mystery solved! Check us out at DirtFarmerJay.com for great bonus content, product reviews, and merchandise, including t-shirts, rugged coffee mugs, and hats that will all help you get the word out that you prefer to JUST DO IT YOURSELF while supporting the DirtFarmerJay channel! www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop

#wetland #wetlands #resilience Several hundred acres burned, literally to the ground, several months ago. All the burned trees and shrubs give away that fires raged through this area recently. In fact, when you walk into the area, you can still smell burned wood and grass. From a short distance, it all looks like nothing happened. That's because the wetland plants continue to thrive and have rapidly grown back, beginning a week after the fires were extinguished. What's their secret to survival and even thriving? An extensive root system that the fires could not overcome. There's a lesson - a metaphor - for us here as well. If we want to thrive through the trials and obstacles of life - even those things and people that wish to harm us - we must have a healthy root system of skills, integrity, rich relationships, and patience. Having those roots will give us the resilience we need to not only have the resources we need to prevail, but also "bring something to the table" in other key relationships in life. Every time DirtFarmer Maggie and I drive by the area, it's a powerful lesson for us. We hope it is for you as well.

An old Baker’s Rack can be reconfigured and outfitted as a bin storage system, clamp rack, and tool organizer. We are still in the prototype stage, but see what we’ve done so far! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop #shoporganization #storage #toolbox Our friends Kim and Jesus gave us a couple of rolling baker racks from their Puerto Rican restaurant. They are aluminum construction, so they are easy to modify. We made one into a solar dehydrator (we’ll feature that another time!) and one into a shop storage column that serves many functions. The rack needed cleaning and we did that with spray on degreaser and a brass bristle brush. Once clean, we removed the integrated caster wheels and replaced them with a robust wood frame base with heavy-duty locking swivel casters. With a solid base and improved smooth mobility, it was time to work on the top. The “L” frames on the sides were mostly too close together for the tool cases and DeWalt® lock-top storage boxes. So, we drilled out rivets on several sets and put the frames wider apart (using short ¼” bolts, nuts, and thread lock) so that our storage bins would fit. It’s still a work in process as we determine what we like where, but we feel we are on the right track. We bought some commercial pans that fit the rack, but found the aluminum sliding on aluminum, with significant weight, needs some help in the form of UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) plastic tape. This makes a slippery surface and allows trays to slide about easily. As it is now, our rack has active parts storage, some tools, pull-out trays for various purposes, and racks temporarily attached for clamp storage. The tools are either on sheets awaiting further organization or in the plastic clamshell the tool comes in (such as a Kreg® pocket hole jig), or trays. We are still finalizing the design but found that wooden flat trays with slots to ride along the edges of the rack trays do not work very well. The is too much friction so they don’t slide smoothly or easily. As for the sides of the rack, one side is presently dedicated to Rockler® clamp racks. They are temporarily affixed to the sides. We like the placement, so they will be bolted in place shortly. The other side is an open slate. Candidates for placement on that surface include more clamps, squares and straight edges, layout tools and spray can racks. We’ll see and report on that when the time comes. If you’ve got some ideas or comments, let us (and your fellow viewer family members) know. In the meantime, JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

Whether it's speed square, combination square, or framing square, you count on the tool to accurately measure 90-degree angles. But, how do you know if the square is square? Easy! Place one leg of the square or its reference edge along the straight edge of a board or piece of plywood. Mark a line along the other leg, then flip the square from side to side and place it along the straight edge once again. Align the other leg about a 1/4" (or cm) from the line you just made, and draw another line. If the lines are parallel, your square is fine! If not, it needs adjustment. In the case of a framing square, check out this episode where we show you how to make the adjustment: https://youtu.be/hvVK2lOirBM Be sure to visit www.dirtfarmerjay.com/blog or /shop for great content and merchandise! JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

You've got a level you depend on to know if something is absolutely level or perpendicular. But, how do you know if the level is reading correctly? Simple! Place the level on a surface - it doesn't even need to be level - but it does need to be flat. Then note the position of the bubble in relation to the lines on both sides of the bubble. Also note the position of the level, either visually or by marking a line around each end of the level. Then, turn the level around, side for side, with the bubble still facing up. Now, look at the bubble again. If it's the same position as before, the level is calibrated. If it's not, then you need to adjust the bubble. If it's non-adjustable, it is time to get a new level. Be sure to visit www.dirtfarmerjay.com/blog or /shop for great content and merchandise! JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

Plain old brown masking tape used to be all that was available. Not anymore, there are blue tapes, and now green FrogTape®. More expensive than the other two, but is it worth it? Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop A quick look on a home improvement store’s website will now show a myriad of tapes for all types of surfaces and uses, and well as extended time that that tape can be left in place before removal, as well as solvent resistance, sharpness of cut lines, and how flexible the tape is. However, for many homeowner uses, the three main tapes that many people are familiar with are kraft (tan), blue, and now, green tape (most well known is FrogTape®, made by ShurTech Brands, Inc.). Masking tape is used in a variety of industries and can be used for all sorts of uses at home as well. Let’s look at the three main types. The brown tape that has been around the longest is the cheapest to make, so its price is the lowest. But economy comes at a price - it isn’t very strong, and the adhesive dries out pretty rapidly after the tape is applied. If the masking isn’t removed shortly after installation, it is tricky and undependable to remove. Blue tapes, most commonly made and distributed by 3M®, have found wide acceptance. More expensive than the previous tan product, it also offers advantages such as strength, thickness and flexibility, visibility, better sealing ability for better paint cut lines, and extended time for removal of the tape. This tape has certainly found plenty of uses in our home and shop. Green masking tapes are a relative newcomer to the market and have become quite popular for all their enhanced masking abilities. These don’t come without a higher price tag, though. When this episode was filmed, the price for a roll of .94 inch wide by 60 yds. long tape for FrogTape® was $7.74, 3M® blue was $3.86, and tan kraft paper tape was $2.98. That means the tan kraft tape is 21 cents per square ft., the blue tape is 27¢ per sq. ft., and the green tape is 55¢ per sq. ft. So, is FrogTape® worth it? You’ll need to decide, but it does deliver on its promise of sealing the edge of the tape better and resisting paint bleed under the edge. It certainly is visible, making it difficult to leave something taped that was supposed to be unmasked. We asked our friend Kenny, who is a professional house painter what his opinion of Frog Tape is. He said, “it’s really worth it!” Having said that, you can bump up the sealing performance of other tapes by running a light bead of caulk on the edge (say, along the intersecting corner of door casing and the wall), getting the painting done, and removing the masking shortly (within a few hours or less) thereafter. People have gotten very good results with properly applied tan kraft paper tape for many years. Proper application means carefully placing the edge of the tape where protection from painting is needed and pressing down the edge well over a surface that is smooth, dry, and not dusty. Increased performance can be had with both the tan and blue tapes by putting a thin bead of caulk over the edge, and wiping it down so that only a thin coat of caulk remains. Once dry, painting is done, and the tape is removed within a couple of hours. FrogTape® stacks the odds of success in your favor by having a superior adhesive that seals the edge better and can stay in place longer without the adhesive drying out or seizing the surface it is applied to. Having said that, no tape does well being exposed to direct sunlight for several hours or even days. The bottom line? Use the tape best suited for the job, including how fast you can remove the tape - the sooner the better. As for us, we’ll use FrogTape on critical trim jobs, but will use the blue tape for most of what we do. JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

If you don't grow your own watermelon and instead buy them at the grocery store or the farmer's market, here are some things to look for that will assure you get the sweetest, juiciest, and best-textured melon! Rounded melons tend to be the sweetest. The melon should feel a bit heavy for its size, and have a soft sheen to it in the light. Ultra-shiny melons are likely not ripe - so not very sweet. The field spot - that light area on the melon that sat on the ground in the field - should be either deep yellow or orange. This indicates field ripening - where the most sugar is produced. Lastly, the sound of the melon when you rap your knuckles on it will tell a story as well. A low, hollow sound indicates ripeness, as well as plenty of moisture in the melon, which is a sign of juiciness. If the melon "rings" high or sounds "tight", it is unlikely it is ripe, sweet, and juicy. If you found this to be helpful, check out our blogs at dirtfarmerjay.com, view our other videos, and stop by our store at www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop for great merchandise, reasonably priced, that will let others know that you JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

#wrench #wrenches #handtools These wrenches are too useful in a wide range of settings to not have in your toolkit. We use them ongoing for a variety of applications. Figuring out what direction the ratchet will engage is easy too! Simply look at the offset direction of the open wrench end, and that's the direction of swing that the box end will engage. The opposite direction will engage the ratchet to position the wrench for another partial turn. The wrenches we have only have a 15-degree offset on the open end side, there is no offset for the box end, but there are models that do have an offset or have a link assembly there for coming at a bolt or not from an angle above. Here is a link to the set that we have - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Ratcheting-E-Combination-Wrench-Set-11-Piece-HRW11PCE/314256278 We think these are great tools, and they are another asset that aligns with our philosophy of JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

Spray paint is simple, effective, and affordable. Just about anyone can use spray paint and get good results - right? Well - not so fast! If you want PROFESSIONAL results, there are some methods you need to use to get the finish you really like. #spraypaint #spraypainting #spraycan Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop There are a few variables that need to be addressed to assure you get great results when spray painting or applying finishes (such as lacquer or varnish). First, buy the best quality paints. Cheap paint runs easily and covers poorly. Cheap paint is suitable for quick color changes where it will not be scrutinized up close, or won’t be exposed to the elements. An example is spraying theatrical prop braces black. Highly quality paint covers well, resists runs, and holds up longer. Second, spray in a sheltered place with good ventilation. You don’t want to breathe the fumes, it’s just not good for you. Also, items that have been heated up by sunlight are better painted when they are closer to room temperature. Being sheltered or in a shop environment also allows you to avoid windy or breezy conditions, allowing for more consistent application. Insects are also greatly diminished, which seem to find their way right away to freshly finished surfaces! Third, protect the surrounding area from overspray using draping, backdrops, or shields. We use old corrugated plastic signs, sheets of cardboard, or butcher paper. It only takes a few moments, and the clean-up is really fast. While you’re at it, you’ll get better results using “painter’s pyramids” or other sharply pointed devices that both raise the object being painted off the table, while not marring the finish when the piece is turned over to paint the back side. Raised edges also allow for better paint coverage along those narrow surfaces. As for the application of the paint itself, there are some rules of thumb that will help you get the best results. Make sure the paint can is well shaken, and that the spray head is clear. Try to paint surfaces that are horizontal. This allows the paint to even out better and resist drooling. If you do need to paint on vertical or upside-down surfaces, do so with multiple light coats. We’ve saved the best for last. There are two “pro” tips that will give you a beautiful finish. First, start the spray just before you move the spray across the surface. This allows the rate and pattern of the spray to stabilize before being applied. And, stop the spray just a split second after going past the surface. Again, consistent application from side to side is key. Second, keep the distance between the spray can and the object being finished the same by using a parallel motion. A common mistake is to arc your arm back and forth. This means the edges will get less and the middle will get a lot - and will be prone to running. Not good. Resist the temptation to test the surface by touching it. Let it dry well. Humid weather will take longer. Do any touch-ups sparingly. And, remember, if you do have to paint vertically or up into a surface, do so with light, multiple coats. Heavy spray is NOT a shortcut, because you’ll have runs and areas you’ll need to repair. Save yourself the headache and do a light coat several times. Sure, you can go get decorative items painted, but why? JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

No more pain and disorganization when picking up those sharp drywall screws! This little shop-made tool works well with all ferrous hardware like screws, washers, bolts, pins and nuts. Not only can you pick up items from inside a container or a small organizer bin, but the parts will stay clustered on the tool instead of spreading out on your work table! You'll need a magnet, epoxy, and a scrap wood handle. While you're at it, make several! You'll be glad you did! You can check out the original build here: https://youtu.be/Iqay9H3XZy0 Visit us at dirtfarmerjay.com/shop for great caps, shirts, and coffee mugs. Get the message out that you JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

The DeWalt® Cordless Inflator will display 3 different air pressure units using a simple technique. The inflator has three push-button switches along the top of the pressure inflation progress indicator and the pressure setting indicators. The 3 push-buttons are (L-R) power, toggle between blower and inflator, and flashlight. Three pressure modes are available: I, Bar, and kPa. To rotate between them and display the unit you prefer (or that is marked on the tire you are inflating!), press and hold BOTH of the buttons on the right while simultaneously rotating the pressure setting ring on the inflation start button. You will see the pressure units change in the pressure setting window. Choose the one you like! If you'd like to purchase one of these units, check out this link: https://www.youtube.com/product/E_g_11gvstbtf3 Thanks for watching, and remember to JUST DO IT YOURSELF!

We do 2 simple things to make the tires on yard equipment last a long time! Rubber and sunlight don't mix well. The UV (ultraviolet) portion of the sun's light spectrum really plays havoc with rubber (and the plastic that is used for a lot of outdoor equipment components). One of our videos featured one of the Gorilla Cart® models. There were some that said that they were very unhappy with the inflatable tires that came with the cart. They rotted quickly, wouldn't hold air, or cracked. We've avoided (or at least significantly delayed) those issues by doing two very simple things. First, store the cart out of the sunlight (just because it gets used outdoors doesn't mean it has to live there), and keep the tires inflated to the recommended pressure. Low air pressure IS NOT a friend of tires. Correct pressure IS. The tires that came on our cart show recommended maximum pressure as 2.0 BAR. The rough equivalent of that in I is 29. So we set our DeWalt Cordless Inflator to 2.0 bar or 29 I and keep the tires on our cart inflated. This protects the bead of the tires (the place where the inside edge of the tire mounts on the steel rim) from breaking loose. Having our inflator on hand around here makes it easy to keep yard equipment and vehicle tires properly inflated. Thanks to my friend Brady N. that recommended this tool to me. He rocks. If you want one, visit this link: https://www.youtube.com/product/E_g_11gvstbtf3 Easy preventative practices that save a lot of trouble later and give you extended time for your investment!

These great self-centering bits from Montana Brand® tools are well made and extremely handy! No more crooked or off-center screws when installing hardware. Great pricing too! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop #drillbitset #drillbits #woodworkingtools Montana Brand® tools are made in the U.S.A. Yep, in Montana. These tools are well made, reasonably priced, and do a great job. After purchasing and using their tools over the last year, we decided that we liked them so much that we joined their Affiliate Program. This has allowed us to authentically recommend their tooling, and receive a small fee for each purchase our viewers make. This in turn allows us to continually reinvest in new episodes. As a “thank you” for your support, use coupon code “DFJ” for 10% off when you purchase from www.montanabrandtools.com! We recently reviewed the Montana Tools® X29 Brad Point Drill Bit Set we purchased. We were really pleased with the economics, performance, and opportunity to support the industrial workforce of the country we live in. You can check out that review right here: https://youtu.be/sNr_wtO9O7s In this episode, we take a look at the Montana Brand® Quick Change Self-Centering Drill and Driver Set (for #6, #8, and #10 screws). Reasonably priced (at the time of this filming) at about $35 for the set ($13 for a single reversible bit holder and self-centering bit), you can buy it here: https://www.montanabrandtools.com/?ref=dirtfarmerjay You can purchase these tools at various retailers, but we find it most convenient to buy them right off the company’s website: www.MontanaBrandTools.com. We think you’ll be pleased with the performance of the tools as well as the price point. Remember to use your 10% coupon code: DFJ These are great tools that will allow you to JUST DO IT YOURSELF! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay

Here's a simple and inexpensive way to stop trash can liners from falling into the container as you load the bin. This is great for odd-sized containers like we have. #shorts #trashbag #garbagebag Give it shot and check out dirtfarmerjay.com for merchandise, blogs, stories, and added features!

Deer can destroy a yardscape and expensive plantings overnight! You need all the help you can get to keep the deer away. Nite Guard claims it can help you win the deer war. Can it? Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop #deer #garden #wildlifecontrol Deer can be extremely destructive to gardens and yardscapes. A single evening of deer free-ranging in your yard can result in losses of ornamental flowers, specimen plantings, and your veggie garden. Urban deer - those that have been born and live in an urban or suburban setting - can be extremely persistent and tend to be the most difficult unwanted yard visitor to control. The NiteGuard Solar® was invented in 1997 by the owners of one of the largest game bird farms in the United States. Their problem was owls that were decimating their flocks. They needed a way to strongly deter the owls and found that a flashing red light had a strong effect on the owls. After experimentation with the spacing of units, placement spacing, and height, and when the units operated, they found that they GREATLY reduced their losses. Word got out about this and others started using the units with similar success for owl problems. Users also discovered that these were effective on other types of wildlife that are active at night that could cause problems on the farm in a yardscape. These included a wide range of animals, including raccoons, skunks, bobcats, coyotes, hawks, and even bears! The unit activates at dusk and continues through dawn. It is not motion activated, the flash occurs ongoing. When a night predator sees the light, from up to a ¼ of a mile (about 400 meters), it triggers a cautionary response. To maximize effectiveness, there are three keys to nighttime predator control: The units must be mounted at the correct height for the animal you want to deter. Set the unit at 48”/121 cm for deer, 30”/76 cm for coyotes, 15”/38 cm for raccoons, and 10’/3 M for owls and hawks. These are the typical heights that the eyes of the animal you are controlling and give the best likelihood of the NiteGuard® being seen. All paths of access to an area need a unit facing that way. In a large area with good sight lines, a great method is to place 4 units at the correct height facing in 4 directions. Changing up placements keeps the animal “off guard”. Leaving the units in the same place ongoing greatly diminishes their effectiveness. The NiteGuard Solar® units operate only in low light and dark situations, so they will not provide protection during daytime hours. You will need a combination of deterrent measures such as motion-detector sprinklers (some call these “water scarecrows”), holographic flash tape, ways to randomly create noise, and so forth. Our friends Dennis and Rosemary own a setting that has been regularly harvested by multiple deer. They were kind to conduct a field test. They used a combination of water scarecrows, NiteGuard® units, and flash tape. While not completely eliminating the problem, these measures have greatly reduced nighttime visits and resulting damage. Units are mounted on 5’ (1.5 m) sections of gray PVC conduit and slipped over metal stakes that are placed in the yard. They mount the units 4’ (122 cm) above the ground on the conduit, and they move the units ongoing, as well as placing the water deterrents in different directions and places. During the daytime, the deer in our test setting quickly acclimated to the tape, even with placement changes, and ignored it. In fact, on two different occasions, the deer were observed grazing lilies and roses while standing under the flash tape. Boy, those deer can be persistent! NiteGuard Solar® units will operate continuously for about 3 to 5 years, even in extreme weather conditions, and are charged ongoing by sunlight. Many people have found alternative uses for the units, including keeping curious wildlife away from a camping trip in the wild, as a safety beacon in the wilderness, or giving the appearance of a security system/camera on a residence. NiteGuard Solar® units, as well as holographic flash tape, are available at: www.niteguard.com. You should expect to pay about $25 for a genuine NiteGuard Solar® unit.. You’ve worked hard to create a beautiful setting around your home. Protect your investment without harming the wildlife. We think you’ll like the NiteGuard® solution! Buy your DFJ T-Shirt, Cap, or Coffee Mug at https.//www.dirtfarmerjay.com/shop Follow us on Social Media to know when we’re building projects or releasing new episodes! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dirtfarmerj Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dirtfarmerjay You can help support this channel by buying our merchandise or supporting us on Throne or Patreon Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/dirtfarmerjay