Nefarious Racing

Getting the right wheel offset is extremely important to make sure your new wheels are actually going to fit on your car and not hit the body or the suspension parts. In this video I explain exactly what offset is, what backspacing is, and how to calculate it all so you know if your new wheels are going to fit or not. To read the blog post, go here: https://nefariousracing.com/blog/wheels/what-is-wheel-offset/ Check out the Nefarious website for lots of aftermarket parts reviews and more! - https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariou... Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefario... Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Round 4 touge run in the Honda Civic. Unfortunately the audio from the outside shots was completely unusable, so you can enjoy a bit of Eurobeat instead. Car specs: Honda Civic EF DX 1991 1.5L D15B2 engine 1.6L gearbox MPFI Swap No cat Sachs shocks with Vogtland lowering springs Street tyres Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with clothes, stickers and parts coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

My ebay gear knob broke, so I had to find a way to fix it. Here's how I did it, so if you have the same issue you can fix it to. Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with clothes, stickers and parts coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Another touge run in the Civic. This time filming POV. Getting much more confident in the corners now as getting used to the car and the road. Car specs: Honda Civic EF DX 1991 1.5L D15B2 engine 1.6L gearbox MPFI Swap No cat Sachs shocks with Vogtland lowering springs Street tyres Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with clothes, stickers and parts coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

A short run in the Honda Civic EF. Hit the limiter and got a check engine light about half way through so took it easy the rest of the way. Car specs: Honda Civic EF DX 1991 1.5L D15B2 engine 1.6L gearbox MPFI Swap No cat Sachs shocks with Vogtland lowering springs Street tyres Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with clothes, stickers and parts coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Footage from Cars & Coffee October 2022 in Belgrade Serbia. My first time going to one of these, and I was pleasantly surprised by the cars on display. Enjoy. Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with parts, clothes and stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.comFacebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracingInstagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracingTelegram: t.me/nefariousracing -- MUSIC -- Music by Aries Beats - https://www.youtube.com/c/AriesBeats

In this video I show you how I marked out, cut and installed custom vinyl stripes on my Honda Civic EF. I also show you how to use the wet application method for installing vinyl. Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with parts, clothes and stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariou... Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefario... Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

In this video I show you how to relocate a car battery to the trunk as I do it in my 1991 Honda Civic EF. I'll show you the parts you'll need, plus what you'll need to do in order to complete the install. To read the text version with detailed pictures, visit the Nefarious blog: https://nefariousracing.com/videos/how-to-guides/how-to-relocate-car-battery-to-the-trunk/ PARTS YOU WILL NEED TO RELOCATE YOUR CAR BATTERY - Battery Cable - I like to use the battery cable from the BMW E36, because they are thick, high quality cables with a distribution block and crimp bits already attached. If you are going to buy normal cable, you should go with 4 gauge or larger. Personally I would go larger just to be safe, closer to 0 gauge, but it depends how many electronics you intent to run through the cable (for example a sound system would require a much larger cable – or you could connect it straight to the battery to avoid this issue. Just keep all this in mind when deciding which cable to get). Also make sure you determine where you are going to place the battery so you can measure exactly how much you will need. Most likely it will be 5-6 meters depending on the car. - Ground Cable - This cable goes from the battery negative terminal and needs to be grounded to the chassis somewhere close to the battery (ideally within 30cm or so). You can also get this from the BMW E36. If buying normal cable, it can be thinner than the positive, however personally I would just buy an extra meter of whatever cable you are using for the positive and use that. That way you’ll be 100% sure you won’t have any issues. - Battery Mount / Tray - A way to mount the battery in the trunk. I used a battery tray and tie downs I found on eBay. Don't forget any bolts you may need for this. - Crimp Bits - To put on the cables on the engine bay side (and the battery cable if you are just using a normal battery cable) - Power Distribution Block - If not using the E36 cable, you will need some way to connect the positive battery cable to the positive cables in the engine bay. Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with parts, clothes and stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

In this video I will show you the process of bedding in new brake pads and discs when you have installed new brake pads and rotors on your car. This process applies whether you have installed new rotors and pads or just new pads. WHY BED IN NEW BRAKE PADS? When you first install new brake pads, they don't match the brake rotor 100%. This is because the items are manufactured individually, and as a result, the brake pad surface won't be fully contacting the rotor when new. As well as this, when you bed in brake pads, some of the brake pad material actually gets transferred onto the rotor, which aids in the stopping performance of your pads. This is because brake pads grabbing onto pure metal don't actually work that well, they need to grab onto another grippy surface - brake pad material - in order to stop effectively. Due to all this, the brakes will not work at their optimal performance until the brake pads have been "bedded-in" to the rotor, and the surfaces match 100%, giving the pad complete contact on the rotor and allowing it to grip with its full surface area. Now, brake pads will naturally bed in during normal day to day driving. However, to minimize any potential issues and ensure your brake pads perform 100% right away, bedding them in is a good idea and doesn't take long. It's also a good way to test your braking system and insure everything has been installed and is working correctly. WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DON'T BED IN NEW BRAKE PADS? As mentioned earlier, brake pads can naturally bed themselves in during normal day to day driving. However, if the brakes are used to hard too early (such as an emergency stop right after being installed) and then the car is parked, the brake pads can transfer too much material onto the rotor due to the heat (pretty much welding themselves to the rotor), which will result in an uneven surface on the rotor. The end result of this will be a rotor that causes vibrations in the steering wheel, often diagnosed as a "warped rotor" which most of the time means you now have to replace the brake rotors again with new ones. Also, if you are relying on natural driving to bed the brake pads in, you'll notice that your brakes don't work as well for a while until they have bedded themselves in. If you need to do an emergency stop, you may find yourself with substandard brakes that don't stop your car in time. This can be avoided by doing the proper bedding in procedure which will allow you to use your brakes properly as soon as you are done, so you won't have to worry about something like this happening. THE PROCESS OF BEDDING IN NEW BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS Every manufacturer of brakes will recommend a slightly different procdure, however this process I'm going to show you here will cover most brake pads (unless you are running trackday pads or some other specialist pads - then follow the instructions that came with them). What you need to do is find an empty bit of road (straight if possible) that you can safely stop on. So make sure there are no other cars around. You will need to do series of stops from successively higher speeds. First, you want to do 5-10 stops from 50kmh (30mph) down to about 10kmh (around 7mph). Do NOT brake hard enough to activate the ABS or lock up the tyres. It should be firm but smooth, and you'll take a few seconds to come down to the slower speed - that is normal. Next, you want to do 3-5 stops from 80kmh (50mph) down to 10kmh (7mph). Same as before, do not brake hard to activate the ABS or lockup the tyres. At this point you'll probably notice that the brakes aren't working great and you need to push the pedal further for them to bite. Now you'll need to let the brakes cool off. NOTE: At this point make sure to not use the brakes hard or do any emergency stops (unless there is an actual emergency). If you come to a traffic light or a stop, DO NOT sit of the brake pedal, always lift off. If you sit on the brakes, you can get bits of brake pad stuck to the the rotor, which will cause vibrations in your steering wheel and you'll need to get new rotors (as described earlier). Try to keep the car moving but take it easy and stay off the brakes as much as possible. Do this for about 10 minutes. Once that's done, pull over to the side of the road and let the brakes fully cool. DO NOT put your handbrake up - it can seize on from the heat. Just put the car in park or in gear and let it cool down for about 15 minutes. That's it. Now your new brakes are ready to be used. To read the blog post, go here: https://nefariousracing.com/videos/how-to-guides/how-to-properly-bed-in-new-car-brake-pads-rotors/ Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with clothes, stickers and parts coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Taking the Honda Civic EF for a spin. Still playing with the lighting settings on the camera so this one was a little dark. However, you can enjoy the screaming 1.5L non vtec engine. Car specs: Honda Civic EF DX 1991 1.5L D15B2 engine 1.6L gearbox MPFI Swap No cat Sachs shocks with Vogtland lowering springs Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with clothes, stickers and parts coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

In this video I show you how to replace the front brake pads on my Honda Civic EF, same as the CRX & Shuttle (1988-1991). This was the easiest brake pad job I've ever had to do. It's literally a one bolt job. Tools you will need: - 12mm socket & ratchet - Caliper piston tool or adjustable pliers - Flat head screw driver (to pry out the old pads - might not need it) - Jack & stands - Wheels brace / socket to remove the wheels To read the text version with photos, go here: https://nefariousracing.com/videos/how-to-guides/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-on-honda-civic-ef-crx/ Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with clothes, stickers and parts coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Here is how to remove the steering wheel on a Honda Civic EF and CRX, and how to install an aftermarket steering wheel. If you want to read the text version with pictures, go here: https://nefariousracing.com/videos/how-to-guides/removing-installing-steering-wheel-on-honda-civic-ef-crx/ Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with clothes, stickers are parts coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

In this video I install and review a universal Ebay shift knob in my Honda Civic EF. Overall I was quite impressed with this gear knob, once installed it was tight and felt like it would hold up well. The aluminium was smooth all around and cut nicely. I think it was a good buy for about $20. Check out the Nefarious website, online shop with clothes, stickers are parts coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Here's a quick tutorial on how to remove the door cards (interior door panels) from a Honda Civic EF (87-91) and CRX (83-91). You should only need a Phillips screwdriver for this job. For a written version with detailed photos, go to my website: https://nefariousracing.com/videos/how-to-guides/how-to-remove-honda-civic-ef-crx-door-cards/ Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing. Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Here's how to test if the throttle position sensor (T) on your Honda is operating correctly. This will work for most 90s Hondas including Civic, Integra, CRX, Shuttle etc that have D15, D16, B16 etc engines. You will need a multimeter to test voltage. With the key in the "ON" position (engine not running), you need to put the + probe of the multimeter on the red wire on the T plug (middle wire), and the - probe on the negative battery terminal, or other ground spot. The multimeter should read close to 0.5v with the throttle closed, and 4.5v with the T at wide open throttle (WOT). Also test to make sure the voltage climbs and drops smoothly as you open and close the throttle. If any of this is not happening, you will either need to adjust the T by loosening the bolts and shifting it's position until the readings match the numbers above, or replace the T. For a written version of this video with photos go to my website: https://nefariousracing.com/videos/honda-civic-ef/how-to-test-throttle-position-sensor-tps-on-honda-civic-crx-integra-etc/ Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Footage from Night Speed Drag Wars 2019 when a Dodge Demon lost it, crossed into my lane and almost wiped me out in my BMW E36 328i. #shorts Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

The fastest ever run done in my old BMW E36 328i - 14.48. Done at Night Speed Drag Wars 2019 at Meremere Dragway. Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Footage from the very first time I took my old BMW E36 328i out to the drags in 2019 at Meremere Dragway in New Zealand for the Winter Drag Wars. Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Old footage of my BMW E28 with M30B35 engine drag racing at Meremere Dragway in 2017. Hope you enjoy. Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

I'm at the weekly Sunday Night Car Meet in Novi Beograd, Belgrade, Serbia. Check out what happens to cars on this side of the world. Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing Hard Bass Adidas by ANTON CHACHKE: https://www.youtube.com/c/AntoninChachkine

Footage of my old BMW E36 328i at Pukekohe trackday in 2021. -- Car Details -- - Factory Mtech 328i auto - Manual swapped with Getrag 220 and single mass flywheel - Front NZKW bucket seats, no rears - Rear muffler done - Solowerks S1 Coilovers - Style 32 wheels 17x8 et20 all round with 225/45R17 tyres Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

The new Nefarious Racing battle wagon revealed & taken for a rip! Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing

Finally completed the repair of the rear quarter panel on the Nissan 300zx. In this video you'll see my lay down the paint, and the final product. Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing --MUSIC-- Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio

In this video I masterfully install a tint strip on the windscreen of the 300zx. Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing Video edited by my man Zoran Ilic, check him out here: https://www.linkedin.com/in/zoran-ilic-60874121b/

Taking the 300zx for a spin on a closed circuit in Mexico. Enjoy. Check out the website, online shop with clothes & stickers coming soon: https://nefariousracing.com Facebook.com: https://www.facebook.com/realnefariousracing Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realnefariousracing Telegram: t.me/nefariousracing Video edited by my man Zoran Ilic, check him out here: https://www.linkedin.com/in/zoran-ilic-60874121b/