Datsun 510 Driver's Floor Board Replacement (Pt 2) (Ep# 15)

2 years ago
215

Project Log (19 Aug 18):

Drivers Floorboard rust repair continues, firewall got cut. The frame piece underneath seems solid, just need to sand it down, get the remaining spot welds out, make a new piece. It was a short day today, just was too hot to do much, and we were doing stuff as a family.

To Do (Daily):

☑ Cut the chunk of firewall off

1. Cut the firewall piece out of the way so I can fashion the firewall extension piece.

The spot welds were a pain in the bum, but it is nice to get the pieces out of the car

Notes:

I ran out of welding wire on Saturday and didn’t get to Harbor freight before they closed (Sunday)

Images:

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Project Log (24 Aug 18): Start Time: 1730 End Time: 2100
Drivers Floorboard rust repair continues

To Do (Daily):

☑ Make the firewall extender sheet metal

☑ Finish Welding the frame rail under the seat and to the old rail

☑ Replace the front corner metal on the side (by the outer skin)

☑ Finish welding up small holes from the floorboard patches I made

1. The firewall has metal that extends down under the floorboard. It goes through in about a 90 degree angle. I measure the panel it is ~ 17.5” long and 7” wide. I created the panel with a ~1” overlap with the firewall the purpose is to attach the panel with spot welds, then use seam sealer to ensure I don’t get a bunch of moisture after adding the panel. The floorboard will also overlap this piece and I will use the same process to connect the floorboard to the firewall panel. The panel was created with a harbor freight metal brake, I added two bends to give the panel a more natural curve that I will finish with a hammer and clamps. I wanted to get this whole panel finished tonight, but realized I needed to paint on the rust converter before welding everything together.

The piece was originally too long so I had to trim it down a bit

I am still using the metal given to me by a buddy

I have been making sure to smooth the sides with a snader so I don’t have a ton of jagged edges

2. I am still not a great welder so the frame rail got finished stitch welded together. This was a weld grind weld grind process, but in the end I think it turned out well and is very solid (compared to the old rusted out frame). I finished the spot welds at the back of the frame as well.

3. The panel that is around the door (kick panel?) . The front corner was completely rusted. I cut it out and welded in another piece. I don’t think the repair will last forever, the metal around that area is pretty bad, but this will help keep moisture out of the new panels going into the car. The rocker panel and front fender definitely need replaced, but I will get to those at a later date

4. There were a few small panels that needed the holes finished welding up, I did that today.

Notes:

4 ½” wire wheels are very scary to me. I am always afraid it is going to wrap me up

One became a needle and flew off and embedded itself in my leg, it hurt

I ripped another pair of shorts today. This summer has been rough on my garage clothes I have had most of my pants/shorts the better part of a decade and they are finally giving up the ghost (the wife is not sad)

Still not looking forward to changing the rocker panels, hopefully this will be good practice

I did a lot of sanding getting the car ready to go back together

Car: 1972 Datsun 510
Engine: L20B
Transmission: 280zx 5-Speed
Suspension: Rear Coil Overs
Minor Mods: Battery to Trunk, Electric Fans,

Camera: GoPro Hero3+
Voice Over: Audacity
Editing Software: GoPro Studio (I really don't like it)

Build Thread Information:
RATSUN: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/72953-aarons-1972-datsun-510-4-door-glory/page-1
GRM: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/datsun-510-4-door-project-name-tbd/134878/page1/

Loading comments...