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Wat Klang Khlong Sra Bua: Ayutthaya’s Serene Historic Temple
Wat Klang Khlong Sra Bua (วัดกลางคลองสระบัว), often translated as “Monastery in the Middle of the Lotus Pond Canal,” is an active Theravada Buddhist temple of the Maha Nikaya sect located approximately 5 km northwest of Ayutthaya’s historic city island. Situated on the east bank of the ancient Khlong Sra Bua canal in the Thung Kaeo (Crystal Field) area, it forms part of Ayutthaya’s northern cluster of temples, a region rich in Ayutthaya Kingdom (1351–1767) heritage. The temple’s name reflects its central position along the canal, a vital waterway dug in the early Ayutthaya period to connect the royal palace to Khlong Chang, serving as a key transportation route for royal barges and trade.
Origins and Construction
The temple’s founding is rooted in the Ayutthaya era, though precise dates are elusive due to the destruction of records during the Burmese sack of Ayutthaya in 1767. Based on architectural analysis and historical maps, it likely dates to the mid- to late Ayutthaya period (16th–17th centuries), a time of temple proliferation under royal patronage.
Local chronicles and the 1926 map by Phraya Boran Rajathanin (a key source for Ayutthaya topography) place it amid a network of contemporaneous temples: Wat Phisua to the north, Wat Raeng to the south, and across the canal to the west, Wat Sri Pho and Wat Phrom Kalayaram. These neighbors indicate Wat Klang was part of a monastic community supporting the kingdom’s spiritual and agricultural life in the fertile Thung Kaeo plain, bordered by canals and fields. The canal itself holds historical significance; its confluence with Khlong Pla Mo was the site of a pivotal 1548 rebellion against the usurper King Khun Worawongsathirat, where nobles assassinated him during a royal procession and installed Prince Thianracha as King Maha Chakkraphat. This event underscores the area’s role in Ayutthaya’s political upheavals.
The temple endured the 1767 Burmese invasion, which razed much of Ayutthaya, but survived in partial ruin. Like many sites, it benefited from Rattanakosin-period restorations under King Rama I (1782–1809) and later monarchs, who rebuilt Ayutthaya’s religious landscape.
Architectural Features and Restoration
Wat Klang exemplifies classic Ayutthaya monastic architecture:
• Ubosot (Ordination Hall): The current structure, rebuilt in the mid-20th century, blends early and late Ayutthaya styles with Rattanakosin (Bangkok period) influences—characterized by a tiered roof, gilded gables, and ornate bargeboard motifs. It houses principal Buddha images in the Maravijaya (subduing Mara) posture.
• Chedis: Several old satellite chedis, likely 16th–17th century originals, surround the ubosot. These bell-shaped stupas, some restored, contain relics and feature indented bases typical of the period.
• Viharn (Sermon Hall): Modest remnants include boundary markers (sema stones) and a wiharn with faded murals depicting Jataka tales, though these are less preserved than those in nearby temples.
Major restorations occurred in the 19th century under King Rama V (Chulalongkorn, r. 1868–1910) as part of broader heritage preservation, and again in the 1960s–1970s by the Fine Arts Department of Thailand. The temple was officially recognized as a protected historic site in the late 20th century, with coordinates at 14° 22’ N, 100° 33’ E. Today, it remains an active community hub for merit-making ceremonies, though its structures show weathering from seasonal flooding.
Cultural and Local Significance
In local folklore, Wat Klang is linked to the “three wishes” tradition shared with nearby Wat Mai Chumpol and Prasat Nakhon Luang: Devotees pray at all three sites for desires to be granted, returning to offer thanks if fulfilled. This reflects Ayutthaya’s enduring blend of history and spirituality. The temple’s serene riverside setting, amid lotus-filled canals, draws fewer tourists than central ruins, offering a peaceful glimpse into everyday Ayutthaya life.
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