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Playing On New Boulder Problems
I needed to develop some new boulder problems that worked on some different moves and techniques. This process can be tricky. I can look at a picture of my board on an app and develop problems. The problems will often appear to be relatively easy...that is until I actually try them. This doesn't happen as much when I develop problems while sitting directly in front of the board.
The first problem uses the side of the board like an arete. It was definitely harder than I first expected. However, it gave me an opportunity to add a heel hook.
The second problem did not go as expected initially. It was a very hot and humid day. I had to switch holds to be able to accomplish what I wanted. My hands still felt like they were going to grease off the holds. I also wanted to do a small dyno to the last hold (the pinch). Normally, I match the last hold, but I never planned to on this problem.
The last problem....this is my favorite one of this session. It uses a smallish crimp on the gray volume as an undercling. Most of the holds are positive and the feet are ok. The move off the undercling has me completely stretched out. This makes it hard to activate my shoulder on the juggish hold from beastmaker. I'll keep working on this one!
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