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GUCCI - Fall Winter 2024 25 - Women's Runway Show Selection
"To a soundtrack mixed and directed by British producer Mark Ronson, Sabato de Sarno’s Gucci Woman marched into the foreground of Milan Fashion Week’s stage with a vivid personality, for Fall/Winter 2024. Citing small subversions on his inaugural output for the House, the freshly-minted creative director’s vision came further into focus, presenting attendees, like Solange, Kirsten Dunst and Salma Hayek, with a finer understanding of his larger manifesto at the Italian luxury brand’s helm.
“In my fashion as in my dreams, the exercise is the same,” de Sarno writes in his show notes. “Search within the folds for a void that wants to be filled. Look at the detail very closely, before feeling free to back away in pursuit of a broader perspective. Capture the extraordinary where the ordinary is expected. My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality. Because I am not searching for another world to live in, but rather of ways to live in this world.”
Thick trench coats and jackets, many of which were decorated with crystal embellishments, manifested this fanciful vision, as did light dresses that were similarly shimmering with sequins. The designer’s signature “rosso ancora” tone took over leather coats, dresses, bags and thigh-high boots, while his familiar light-green hue dressed formal separates and see-through pieces. Elsewhere, sky blues, mustard yellows, bright pinks and muted oranges contributed to the line’s kaleidoscopic effect, while neutral tones reeled in the full vision before it could become too chaotic. Just a dose of madness, however, saw the brand’s Horsebit Loafers elevate on platforms.
Overall, de Sarno’s latest offering is designed for those “ways of life” he searches for in his notes. With just enough fantasy, the collection is a physical manifestation of his aspirational dreams, crafted not to sacrifice wearability."
Text by Dylan Kelly February 23, 2024; for HypeBeast.com
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