Milan Fashion Week: ZEGNA Fall Winter 2024-25 Mens Runway Fashion Show

"For fall, Alessandro Sartori brought a corner of Oasi Zegna to Milan. Guests filed into the giant dark space at the former city fairgrounds where cashmere flakes in Zegna’s signature vicuna hue gently dropped from the ceiling to form a high pile in the center of the zigzagging catwalk, the sound of mountain wind blowing in the background, which was followed for the show by a soundtrack composed by British musician James Blake.

“It’s like our sala delle mischie,” or the room where the cashmere is blended at the house’s headquarters in Italy’s Trivero, explained Sartori, artistic director of the brand, speaking of the set.

There’s no denying the designer’s expertise with fabrics, and listening to Sartori always feels like taking a crash course in the treatment of textiles. This time was no different, as he continues to forge ahead with his extensive research and experimentation in fabrications, materials and dyes. The result was a beautiful collection that was an organic evolution of Sartori’s staples that felt fresh and innovative.

There were several introductions, such as his work on the side silhouette as pants showed a lateral stitch that helped keep the volume. The loden coat was revisited with a new construction that Sartori humorously called the sandwich, whereby three layers of cashmere were stitched together. In another example, a quilted coat was created by inserting a sonic welded duvet sheet between two layers of cashmere."
Text By Luisa Zargani, January 15th 2024; for WWD.com

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