The Best of VALENTINO Spring Summer 2024 Runway Fashion Show

"When is a skirt too short? That’s a question that should never be asked, according to Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli.

His spring collection, presented at the Beaux-Arts school with a live performance by FKA Twigs, was in part a response to a wave of violence against women in Italy, which has fueled the sort of public debate that shifts the blame for attacks onto the victims.

“It’s important for women to be free to express themselves through their body and not to be judged,” Piccioli said during a preview at the brand’s headquarters on Place Vendôme.

“There’s a perception about the idea of nudity or the exposure of the body. I like the idea of Eden before original sin. In a way, we add the cliché of sexiness, of seduction, around the body. I think there must be freedom for women to choose, always,” he continued.

His answer to those seeking to police women’s bodies? More skin. His models wore open-worked dresses over skirts as brief as a censor bar — nudity as a manifesto, if you will.

Three-dimensional renderings of doves, lilies or pomegranates, as finely wrought as plaster moldings, were pieced together in soft structures using a technique the designer dubbed “high relief,” borrowing a term from sculpture. “What you see as decoration becomes the construction itself,” he explained.
Text By JOELLE DIDERICH for WWD.com
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