The Trip of a Lifetime: May 27 to 29, 2022 - Fez

May 27, 2022: Captain’s log: star-date 40: Friday; Fes
We said goodbye to Rabat and took a bus here today. The bus was nice and clean and cheap and had few people on it, but bus stations are bus stations - anywhere in the world. I remember the warning about shady characters at the CocaCola Bus Station in San Jose Costa Rica. But we made it here okay.
Getting here from the bus station was another matter. Cabs can’t drive into the Medina here. We knew we would have to walk in from the cab. So the driver started going up this dirt road to a construction site and said “This is it?” Roz thought we were being scammed and were either going to be robbed or killed. I wish I had the wherewithal to take pictures.
Some men came to the car, there was a discussion in Arabic and the driver announced we had arrived. A guy with a cart threw our luggage into it and started through the construction site to what looked like the entrance to a mine. I followed willingly, but Roz was apprehensive. It turned out to be an entrance to the Medina and we found our Ryad, after a ten minute walk on cobblestones.
We booked a “deluxe suite with bathroom.” What that turned out to be was an attic room on the fifth floor with the private bath on the fourth floor; down a treacherous, steep set of stairs with no balcony. It was totally unacceptable. They had no other rooms available, so we went on booking.com and found another place a ten minute walk away.
We set our course on Google Maps and started out. It was all uphill on cobblestones and took us 15 minutes because a “helpful youth” guided us in the wrong direction to try to lead us far enough away that we would have to hire him to take us where we wanted to go. Strange business model, eh? But we were save by Siham from our new Ryad, who called us on WhatsApp and asked if we needed help. I told her where we were and she came over and helped us bring our luggage to her Ryad.
Problem solved! Riad Mazar Fes has a small room for us tonight, and then we will move into a larger one tomorrow. We took a cab to Carrefour for some supplies and now we are just chilling after the most challenging day of this trip. I don’t mention the challenges that much, but they are many. We often talk about missing home; even though we are glad we took this trip.
Anyway, baking class tomorrow. Tour of the Medina on Sunday. This is the biggest Medina in the Arab world. Everybody says you need a guide because it is so big.
jusqu'à demain

May 28, 2022: Captain’s log: star-date 41: Saturday; Fes
This morning I ran to a hiking path leading up a mountain. When I returned I discovered a second door to our Ryad. I rang the bell and a man appeared. He seemed angry like I woke him up. He motioned that I didn’t live there and to leave…then a big grin broke out and he welcomed me in. I told him soon the shoe will be on the other foot…
My chance for revenge came quickly. He was outside helping customers find a taxi. I jumped into the doorway and wagged my finger. Revenge is a dish best served cold Monsieur…
We took a baking class this afternoon. It was so much fun. Thank you Fatima for a wonderful experience. Meeting you was a pleasure for us. Good luck in your future endeavors. I am looking forward to watching you make your dreams come true on Facebook.
We wandered around the Medina the rest of the afternoon. It is the largest in the Arab world and many say it is intimidating, but it only has a couple of main arteries. I went in and out one way in the morning and we went through a second way this afternoon.
jusqu'à demain

May 29, 2022: Captain’s log: star-date 42; Sunday, Fes
This morning I jogged back to the scene of the crime, where our Saturday from hell became worse and worse and worse. It was a straight shot; 10 minutes to the Ryad and two more to the entrance we came in. That kid took us pretty far out of our way. I shot a video recreating the crime scene. Still pretty scary. I don’t remember the metal walls leading to the entrance from the other day. We just walked across dirt and rocks and garbage into the abyss. What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger…I guess.
Roz has started giving alms to women on the street, who ask for them. It’s part of the tradition and culture here, but I don’t partake. The last time I saw my son Frank alive he made me promise to never give handouts. It didn’t take any arm-twisting, because I hardly ever do it. He described how the panhandlers in Philly work on their game at night to maximize profit. He was told he needed to look rougher because he came across as a pretty boy.
Back in the 1980’s there was a guy with red hair who stood in front of McDonalds on Walnut Street. One day I was doing some research at the Rittenhouse Square Public Library. I saw the redheaded panhandler in there reading the Wall Street Journal. Maybe he just liked reading or maybe he made enough begging to invest his money. I agree with Frank on this. But Roz needs to follow the path she belongs on.
jusqu'à demain