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How to Troubleshoot a Worn or Slipping LSD Differential on a Dodge Ram
How to troubleshoot a slipping limited slip differential on a third generation Dodge Ram. Mopar refers to this as their Trac-Loc differential, this is the 9.25”. As many of you know, I did replace the oil in the differential a couple years ago. The differential didn’t have the proper maintenance intervals for the oil and unfortunately that can shorten the life of the clutches. #dodgeram #differential #mopar
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-jack
-blocks
-torque wrench
-hub adapter
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
Procedure:
When I did replace the oil, it helped but a little while after it started chattering again. This is the most noticeable when turning at low speeds or while taking off from a stop. I will admit my driving style probably didn’t help already worn clutches either. After an oil change you’ll need to drive the truck in a figure-eight pattern 10 to 12 times, this will allow the fluid to work its way through the clutches and this may solve your issue. If not, the clutches will require a replacement.
Another method to determine worn clutches is by rotating the wheel by hand. First is blocking the front wheels so the truck doesn’t roll away. Then is jacking up one wheel on the rear axle so it’s off the ground, doesn’t matter which side. Put the transmission in neutral, do not start the engine.
You can remove the wheel and there is an attachment to fasten to the studs so you have a center pivot point for a torque dial to measure the resistance. But you can get a feel for it as well. An acceptable rating would be between 30 ft-lbs or 41 nm to 200ft-lbs or 271 nm. If it’s outside of this value, the clutches require a replacement.
A full rebuild is recommended while it’s apart. It’s peace of mind that you won’t have a component failure down the road and required splitting down the whole assembly again.
I did order the parts online and it’s extremely important to get good quality parts. If you cheapen out on something like the bearings, the whole job will need to be redone if they fail prematurely. Instead of buying everything separately, you can get kits. Of course you’ll need new oil, preferences will vary and you’ll need a friction additive which isn’t shown here.
Next are the outer bearings and seals which sits just behind the hubs. The axles need to be removed regardless, so most of the work is already done for the replacement of those components.
The other kit includes the bearings for the carrier and the front and rear of the pinion. Next is the crush sleeve, pinion nut, pinion seal, ring gear bolts, shims, thread locker, marking compound, an application brush and gasket. I did try to get the clutch pack but for whatever reason stock seems to be limited from different suppliers. The dealer wanted $600 just for the clutches, that wasn’t a realistic option for me as a new carrier was about $800 which includes the carrier, clutches, and spider gears. This is in Canadian dollars by the way.
I was planning on doing the rebuild myself, but due to some personal problems I decided against it and had a shop do it instead. Even finding a shop was a bit tough too as not everyone offers differential rebuilding. I ended up going with a shop that primarily works on transport trucks but specializes in transmissions too. The rebuild took then about 4-5 hours in total.
Once those clutches have been replaced, you’ll have a break-in period. As a generalized procedure, you’ll need to find an open parking lot where you can do a series of figure eights for about 30 minutes with light acceleration. This helps the clutches bed into each other.
Another issue worth noting with this model of differential is the retaining clips for the clutches as shown here. These are also known to back out and can get cause up in the gears chipping teeth. If the teeth are damaged, then a replacement is required.
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