THE EXILE OF THE RUSSIANS IN TRANSNISTRIA

THE EXILE OF THE RUSSIANS IN TRANSNISTRIA

Traveling these days through this territory nestled between the Soviet past and the uncertain future and so few kilometers from the war, is an experience that will be difficult to forget.
Eastern Europe is not all the same. We have already seen the differences on previous trips. But coming from the Baltic countries, and even with similarities, this is for us a foray into the unknown.
But the Russian influence is present everywhere, especially in the countries that formed the former Soviet Union.
And not only in history or geopolitics is Russia present, Russians are the largest ethnic group in Europe and several million live outside Russia.
Snaking along the border between Moldova and Ukraine is a stretch of landlocked land called Transnistria. It is home to more than half a million people and is governed by an independent government. It has its own currency, a constitution and a standing army. But it has no international recognition.
Walking through the streets and the beach, cell phone in hand to record, we are surprised by the total indifference with which people react. Instead of being friendly or unfriendly, as can happen to us, the Transnistrians act as if they literally do not see us.
Weakened by the political context, Transnistria has seen its population decline, as has Moldova's. Populated by 706,000 people in 1990, the current census of the region barely reaches 450,000 inhabitants.
Many young people go abroad to study or work. Everyone here has a friend or relative who lives abroad.
But those who remain are glad for our visit. And they even dare to ask us if we think the Russians are bad.
That feeling of belonging to the Russian people here is mixed with other patriotisms. But in the language, in the aesthetics and even in the products that are marketed, Transnistria is a kind of Russia in exile.
Transnistria maintains close ties with Russia. Its inhabitants are mostly Russian-speaking and the government is run by pro-Russian separatists.
Russia also supplies free natural gas to Transnistria and has supported the elderly in the region with pension supplements.
Since the Russian general Rustám Minnekáev assured that Russia aspires to occupy all of southern Ukraine up to Transnistria, many in this place hope that the war will catch up with them.
It is estimated that Russia has a contingent of about 1,500 troops permanently stationed in Transnistria. Russia could have activated these troops to participate from the west in taking the Ukrainian port of Odessa, less than a hundred kilometers from here.
Thus, the calm in which these days pass may have an expiration date. In one way or another, the bond that exists between the Russians here and there will be far from being dissolved.