What the Helix? Helical Cutter Head really Worth It?(TOTALLY!)

Is an upgrade to a helical cutter head on your planer really worth the money? Short story is ABSOLUTELY, you will notice immediate improvements in audible levels, chip size and amazing finish quality.

BIG thanks to http://www.MyWoodCutters.com for sponsoring this video, be sure to check them out if you want to upgrade your planer/jointer or even if you just need new or custom blades...they have it all!

Long story for a planer or jointer upgrade to a helix head is really dependent on things like what you do with your planer/jointer, what woods you typically work with and what kind of knives you already use. All that said it different for everyone and the decision is really up to you, in this video I hope to make that decision easier for you by present data that I think is important.

In this video I run several different species of wood though my planer with it's original straight knives, check the audible level, current draw, chip size and finish quality. I than change out the portable planer cutter head and put in the new shelix head, made by Byrd tool, from MyWoodCutters.com. I breeze over the head change as this is not a video showing you how to change out the planer head, there are instructions on over at MyWoodCutters.com for most machines and I have taken pictures so that Steffen and I can update the RIDGID planer instructions to be very detailed.

Once the cutterhead had been changed over to the shelix head, a relatively easy process, I ran the same boards though and collected the same data so that I could compare it for you guys.

I summary:
*The audible level is WAY, WAY down compared to the straight blades...it's incredible how different it is.
*Chip size is much smaller, no long gangly strips to jam up your dust collection system.
*Current level is up with the helical head. Was a bit worried about the machine popping breakers with the higher current draw but I have not had any issues yet and I have ran it pretty hard with lots of cherry recently.
* Finish quality of the milled wood is AMAZINGLY different. Not even in the same category. It is almost as if you have already ran a card scraper over your material. This will really cut down on a lot of sanding time.

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Get your Shirt on! We finally have some of our own branded shirts and hats and they are great! Get yours today and me sure to send me a pic so I can see this stuff in the wild!
www.DIYTyler.com/Merch

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Some tools I used (affiliate links):
Katz-Moses Dovetail Jig: http://bit.ly/DVTJig
Nerax Chisels: https://amzn.to/2KPVgw8
Pull Saw: https://amzn.to/31xnDoH
Coping Saw: https://amzn.to/31u3zU1
Marking Knife: https://amzn.to/2Ki5ZQv
Marking Gauge: https://amzn.to/2IIyaVp
Layout Calipers: https://amzn.to/2F6Ryuo
Diamond Sharpening Stones: https://amzn.to/2KPUC1G
12000 Grit Wetstone: https://amzn.to/31AsfKu
Flattening Stone: https://amzn.to/2Xcpdgs
Honing Stop: https://amzn.to/2KJZdlU
Glue Bot: http://goo.gl/X5aNZ0
1/8" Chisel: https://amzn.to/2XJQML7
Titebond TiteWrap: https://amzn.to/2F9AALM
Tool Belt: http://goo.gl/XZnWRx
IsoTunes Xtra: https://amzn.to/2NBu7zw
Mirka 6" ROS Sander: https://amzn.to/2Eijyfv
SuperMax 16|32 Drum Sander: https://amzn.to/2QJ3iKi
10 Million Dollar Stick: https://amzn.to/2SrKvjS
Moisture Meter: https://amzn.to/2SwBy9i
Mirka 6" ROS Sander: https://amzn.to/2Eijyfv