South Georgia: A journey of endurance

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As a bristling polar wind shrieked off the bay, accelerating the velocity of three overflying skuas, I experienced an intense aura emanating from a headstone hewn from Edinburgh granite in Grytviken cemetery. Watched by a doe-eyed baby fur seal scratching against a tombstone,

I felt a synthesis of everything I love about travelling: the power of a journey to transform your senses and the exultation of achieving a lifelong dream. In my reverie I fumbled in my jacket pocket, pulled out a silver hip flask of whiskey and, as custom dictates, raised a toast under South Georgia’s leaden skies: “To the Boss,” I mouthed. “To Sir Ernest Shackleton.”
It’s been 100 years since the explorer died on South Georgia in 1922. He’d returned to this gritty sub-Antarctic island, 1,300km north of Antarctica, for one final polar hurrah with old expeditionary chums, but on arrival he succumbed to a heart-attack, aged 47. South Georgia had

A bust of Shackleton sits in the Grytviken Museum
Inspired by Shackleton’s life, I had long craved to see South Georgia. It had always hovered on my horizon like some faraway mythical place – a Shangri-La with penguins – so it was with some excitement that I joined the Greg Mortimer, a 104m-long ice-strengthened ship in Punta Arenas, Chile. First, we would sail south to Antarctica before looping northwards to South Georgia, following in the wake of Shackleton’s legendary 1914–16 Trans-Antarctic Expedition, one of the last gasps of the Heroic Age.
The journey begins...
As we cast off into the Chilean fjords, I thought of the Endurance heading out in 1914, just as World War I was breaking out across Europe. Yet this part of the planet just has a way of drawing you back into the present. Nature here exerts a pull even more magnetic than that of the South Pole, and I soon lost myself watching minke whales racing our bow across the Beagle Channel.
By the second morning, we had sailed beyond Cape Horn and into Drake Passage, famous for its mountainous seas. But today it was deadpan calm – “Drake Lake”. old sea dogs would have called it. Stable decks made it easier to spot black-browed albatrosses gliding effortlessly by as we carried out seabird surveys, a part of the ship’s citizen-science programme. Meanwhile, at onboard lectures, ship historian Steve Martin narrated Shackleton’s story.

Shackleton's final resting place
The great explorer had twice failed to become the first person to reach the South Pole by the time Roald Amundsen claimed the prize in 1911. So, in search another frontier, his 1914 Trans-Antarctic Expedition would attempt the first crossing of Antarctica via the South Pole. To say it went badly is an understatement. Ignoring advice that the Weddell Sea ice was too thick to penetrate, Shackleton ploughed on. By January 1915, the Endurance was frozen solid. Over the following months the ship was slowly crushed by ice. It sank in November of that year, leaving 28 men adrift on floating ice in the Weddell Sea gyre.
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