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42 Mile Solo Reverse Salkantay Trek - Day 3 "The Canyon" - Peru
On Day 3 I travel from Playa Sahuayaco to Chaullay (9,500ft) gaining about 2,700 ft (800m) in elevation over the course of 9 miles (14k)
This section of the trail is the optional "Jungle Route" from Playa Sahuayaco to Collpapampa. Most guide services take their groups on the dirt road on the opposite side of the canyon, hiking or via vehicle. In fact, most guides or villagers I spoke with informed me the trail was inaccessible and I had no choice but to walk the road, and most recommended I hire a vehicle.
I chose to hike through the jungle. Please understand that while my video is only 5 minutes long, this trail involves several hours of navigating through very dense, overgrown forest/jungle with very few habitations spread out over several kilometers. There is little to no opportunity for supplies or assistance should you need it. There is plenty of water along the route so take a portable water filter or iodine tablets. Also, there are very narrow, exposed sections of trail that have steep drop-offs into the canyon. A fall along one of these sections would be life ending, use caution, hug the wall, be wary of rock slides/mud slides especially if there has been several days of rainy weather. It is very possible that a mud slide could completely wash out the trail requiring you to turn around or the trail conditions are so wet and muddy that traversing along the steep canyon would be too risky. Once you are on this side of the canyon there is no crossing the river to reach the road on the other side, the canyon is deep, wide, and the river is a torrent, if you take this trail you are either committed to it or you have to turn around.
Also, keep in mind that the jungle has anacondas, vipers, tarantulas, giant centipedes, bears, pumas, and mosquitos. This trail is isolated, sparsely traveled, and dense/overgrown. If something happens to you there is no help available. Bring a well stocked first aid kid and know how to use it.
I was very fortunate with the weather, but it is high mountain jungle and heavy rains can occur without warning. There is no shelter along this route, prepare for the worst, hope for the best. I don't want to discourage people from doing this trail, experienced back-country hikers can complete this with ease, eps if travelling alpine style or with a friend. I will discourage anyone who is not completely comfortable with rugged, isolated conditions or who is not in strong physical conditioning.
On a different note, the butterflies and wildflowers along this trail were absolutely magical, I've never seen so many butterflies, it was like walking through a fairytale and although this section was difficult it was absolutely worth it. The family I met were incredibly kind and I believe genuinely excited/curious to see me. I doubt they receive many visitors. Their modest home was truly a Garden of Eden with a bounty of fruits, vegetables, and flowers which they were certainly proud of and eager to display. Their skill in cultivation was readily apparent. It reminded me that there is a different way of being in the world and I am truly grateful for the experience.
The 42 mile long Salkantay Trek is an adventurous alternative to the more popular, and thus more crowded, Inca Trail which many hikers use as a gateway to the renowned UNESCO archeological site of Machu Picchu in Peru.
The standard protocol is to begin this trip in the foothills of Salkantay Mountain at approximately 15,000 ft (4,600m) and work your way down over several days to approx. 8,000 ft (2,400m) with the trek culminating in the ruins of Machu Picchu.
I do this trek solo and in reverse, starting in Machu Picchu Village and walking to Soraypampa gaining altitude the entire way while carrying a 25kg pack.
As an added challenge I take the jungle route between the villages of Playa Sahuayaco and Collpapampa. Most trekking guides will avoid this route and ferry their group via bus along a dirt road as the trail is remote, narrow, and potentially non-existent due to mudslides. ***This route is dangerous. Proceed with caution or with a guide.
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