Metal Shaping Refinement of the Porsche 550 Dash
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Metal Shaping Refinement of the Porsche 550 Dash
In this latest installment, Wray is refining the Porsche dash so that the gauges fit the panel. We do this using a leather face slapper and wood dolly to roll the radius back. However, at 9 minutes into the video the sound cuts out completely leaving me to try to narrate as best as I can so please be kind. Wray confirms with the gauges to make sure he isn't going to far back with the radius. He double checks the panel using the flexible shape pattern and notices we need a little more stretch at the end. Using the stretching dies for the shrinker stretcher, Wray carefully stretches the metal and brings the end of the panel further back than 90 degrees and ensures it flows correctly. Thanks for your understanding I hope I did the video justice with my voice over work.
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18
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Metal Shaping a Porsche 550 Dash: Part 1
Metal Shaping a Porsche 550 Dash: Part 1
Our friend Adam who owns a shop called Unobtanium graciously lent us a Porsche 550 for 2 weeks. We have one being built in the shop but we don't have all the information. With Adam's car here we are trying to gather as much of the information as possible through flexible shape patterns and gauges.
Wray really wanted the dash of the Porsche so that was our first focus. I made a flexible shape pattern and gauges of the full dash and made it into 4 sections. With the information Wray cut out a blank piece of sheet metal, and through the flexible shape pattern shows you what needs to happen.
He starts by wheeling the panel with the English Wheel just to give it the right amount of area value. Once this is achieved, he then stretches the edge of the panel where it dives in. He shows 3 different methods to achieve the desired result.
He stretches the metal via a body hammer and a rubber mat. He also shows the same thing can happen with the body hammer and clay. He also anneals the edge with a torch and takes it to the planishing hammer. You see by the end of the video that the Flexible shape pattern is filling out and the panel is taking shape.
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22
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Tuning Body Hammers
Tuning Body Hammers
Today we are doing something a little different. A while back Wray bought a bunch of blacksmithing tools and body hammers. They we all severely rusted. So we put them in rust 911 solution for 24 hours, cleaned them off and them wire brushed them. Now Wray is going to tune the body hammers, put them on a wooden handle and then paint them red.
He grinds the hammer head starting with 50 grit and going all the way to 1200 to give it a nice polished look. Puts the head on the handle and using Rustoleum red paint, paints the head and voila, it's ready for the window at Tiffany's.
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7
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Grinding and Planishing techniques: Austin-Healey 3000 Shroud
Grinding and Planishing techniques: Austin-Healey 3000 Shroud
In this video Wray continues to planish out the "Crinkle Wrinkles" in the shroud. He starts by heating up any high spots in the aluminum shroud and hits them back with a hammer and soft body dolly. He also shows how his grinding technique is the preferred method as he only grinds the weld and not so much the parent metal. He continues back on to hammer planishing and also using the slapper, he switches between the two to hit a localized area and then also a wider area. We probably have 1 or 2 more videos left on the shroud and then onto the Talbot Lago!
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25
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10-Day Apprentice: 1st contestants results
10-Day Apprentice: 1st contestants results
Our first contestant on the 10 Day Apprentice is Jason from Massachusetts. He is already 5 days in, has taken the 4-day metal shaping class and shows a lot of progress in that time. He has done small patch panels in the past but nothing that required any shape.
He learned how to use the flexible shape pattern and has become proficient in learning how to read it. He has already made 2 fenders for the V.W. wireform that was created by students a few years ago and will most likely finish the hood and maybe a door.
The remainder of his stay he wants to learn how to add details to a panel, learn how to weld aluminum and a few other tips and tricks. We hope to show you how he progresses these next 5 day in an upcoming video.
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8
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Tipping and Finessing the Talbot Lago Fender
Tipping and Finessing the Talbot Lago Fender
In our last video, Wray pulled off the flexible shape pattern and started to bring the area arrangement out of a single sheet of aluminum. Using the English wheel, a metal shaping mallet and a shrinking facilitator Wray filled the fender out. Now we're on to the details, Wray marks where the panel needs to be tipped and using the tipping wheel rolls the peak into the fender. Doing this shows where extra material is, this needs to be shrunk so using the shrinker stretcher he finesses it to where it needs to be. Then using a slapper and dolly with the gauges tips the edge a little more and confirms it's in the correct location via the gauges. He brings it over to the car to ensure the panel is in the correct arrangement.
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11
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Hammering and Welding the Austin-Healey 3000 Shroud
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Hammering and Welding the Austin-Healey 3000 Shroud
We're back on the Healey shroud. This video has a lot of banging going on. Wray has to adjust the opening for the grill and adjust the lower section of the shroud. He uses his caulking tool to arrange any minor details and then takes out the big ACME hammer to move the metal around. There are a few splits that he has to weld up to move forward with certain areas of the shroud. We are coming close to the end of the Shroud Saga, one more video to finalize any arrangement flaw and then it's all planishing from there.
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25
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How to remove surface rust
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How to remove surface rust!
A lot of people question why Wray prefers aluminum, the answer is simple, RUST! During the summer months in the shop it becomes really humid and some of our work gets surface rust. In this video Wray goes over the different way we fight the rust demon!
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29
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Metal Shaping: Project Talbot-Lago
Metalshaping: Project Talbot-Lago
Yes Wray has started a new project and yes I will make sure we do one video on the shroud. Having said that, this is a fantastic video! Wray is truly in love with the new car that came into the shop. A 1930's Talbot-Lago that was made in Florida out of fiberglass and the owner wants to complete another one out of Aluminum.
Wray discusses how he marks off the flexible shape pattern also how he makes a gauge to use as an external buck. He grabs a sheet of aluminum and lays the flexible shape pattern flat on the metal, marks off about an inch further out from the FSP as cheat room (this proves useful after he shrinks the metal). He then goes to his shrinking facilitator and shows, using the FSP where the panel needs to shrink. He uses our metal shaping mallet (which you can find on our website) and hitting the panel creates "gathers". He hits the gathers down from either side, and essential shrinks the metal. He also stretches the center of the panel to achieve the desired area value.
Wray then wheels the panel out using the english wheel and verifies everything is going according to plan using the FSP as the blueprint. He wheels and checks for about 30 minutes then back to the shrinking facilitator to hammer it out more.
Another hour or so of wheeling and he is 90% there. He shows you how the panel looks by placing it on the car and then after 2.5 hours of shaping, he bids everyone a farewell.
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25
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Austin-Healey 3000: Shroud Update and Interesting Project Preview
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Austin-Healey 3000: Shroud Update and Interesting Project Preview
This episode Wray has welded the light and the side flange that meets the fender. He explains what is next for the Shroud. We also show a new project that has come into the shop. A 1930’s Talbot-Lago made out of fiberglass in which the customer would like to turn into an all aluminum body. A lot of great things are happening here and we hope to capture it all for you in another video series!
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20
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Stitch it and smooth it: The Austin Healey Shroud
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Stitch it and Smooth it: The Austin Healey Shroud
It's Back! Wray is welding the shroud back together! Wray uses a 50/50 Helium Argon mixture, on the front of the shroud sets the everlast tig welder at 70 amps and then 80 amps on the back while also using the pulse. He starts by welding each end of the shroud and then massaging the remaining hole back together with a hammer and dolly. He clamps a piece of copper behind the weld area and stitches the shroud back.
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39
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Mobile English Wheel Roller / Planishing Hammer Positives and Negatives
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Mobile English Wheel / Planishing Hammer Positives and Negatives
In this episode Wray uses the Mobile English Wheel and the Planishing hammer on different types of metal. He shows the surface quality from both tools and explains how quick one tool can move metal over the other. The he shows the wheel taking dents out of a fender that students from our metal shaping class made and also removes dents from a Mercedes fender as well.
We know that many of the viewers prefer to do things using simple hand tools but we also wanted to show what is possible with other tools.
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8
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Mobile English Wheel vs. Planishing Hammer
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Mobile English Wheel vs. Planishing Hammer
In this episode Wray and Eric discuss the new Mobile English Wheel they built this weekend. Wray demonstrates how effective the English Wheel is on the shroud and explains why the planishing hammer isn't the best choice due to the valley in the shroud. Wray then goes over what he has to do with the shroud to ensure it is back to it's original glory.
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13
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Austin-Healey 3000: The Shroud of ProShaper and Contest Winners announced
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Austin-Healey 3000: The Shroud of ProShaper and Contest Winners announced
This is a short video as it was 11:30pm by the time we could start filming so this video goes over how Wray is going to arrange the opening for the grill. What he did to ensure the damaged light area will be corrected and we also announce the winners of the 10-day apprenticeship!
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24
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The Healey Shroud Dent Removal Saga
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The Healey Shroud Dent Removal Saga
We're back! In this episode Wray created a straightening jig using MDF and all thread. Wray cut the MDF to fit the profile of the good side of the shroud. Duplicated it and used it for the other side of the shroud.
Using the leather slapper Wray hit the shroud so that it met the MDF perfectly, creating symmetry on both sides of the shroud. Then he uses a slapper and dolly to planish the are where the light is.
We finally check the gauges to see what needs to be done next. You'll see the damaged portion of the shroud needs to open up. Wray again using a slapper and gauge, arranges the metal to fit the gauge.
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7
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Blacksmithing & Metal Shaping the Austin-Healey 3000 Shroud
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Blacksmithing & Metal Shaping the Austin-Healey 3000 Shroud
I filmed a portion of how to make gauges but forgot to put it into this video so tomorrow there will be a quick clip of how I make a gauge.
This episode is a little different. Wray needs to adjust the arrangement of the shroud where the fender fits up. Instead of just using a cardboard gauge, Wray had me take a 1/4" thick piece of flat stock and bend it to the part of the shroud that isn't damaged. I did this by hammering the sides of the stock to create the perfect curve where it fits inside the shroud.
With the flat stock installed Wray takes a slapper to the damaged portion of the shroud and slaps it until it fits the profile of the flat stock. Then he proceeds to planish the shroud with a hammer and dolly.
At the end of the video Wray shows exactly how to bend the flat stock with and without heat to arrange it to fit the headlight.
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41
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Austin-Healey 3000 Aluminum Shroud Resurrection
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Austin-Healey 3000 Aluminum Shroud Resurrection
We all hope you have a wonderful New Year! Now that the shroud has taken shape, it's time to refine the arrangement. We do this by creating a Flexible Shape Pattern and gauges from the good half of the shroud and turn it inside out to place it on the damaged side. This ensure symmetry and it lets us know where the gauges are supposed to fit perfectly.
We've marked out the damaged side, now with various hammers, dollies and a slapper Wray arranges the metal according to the gauges. You can see sometimes it's a seesaw effect, where you bump out an area of the shroud while another area sinks in. It doesn't take long though to get it to about 80% correct. Still lots of refining to do and then we will be ready to smooth the entire surface to it's original glory!
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24
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Refinement of the damaged Austin-Healey 3000 Shroud
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Refinement of the damaged Austin-Healey 3000 Shroud
We're back! In this episode Wray created a gauge for the headlight to make the damaged side identical. To get it that way Wray starts to planish out the shroud with a hammer and dolly along with the slapper. He fixes any issues with the flanges by laying the light on the table to ensure it's straight as he hits it back into place. He uses the caulking tool to address the flanges ensuring they bend at the correct location. He also talks about a new friend he made who came into the shop yesterday. You start to see everything taking shape, you see this once we locate where the grill surround goes. This helped Wray see whether the damaged shroud needs to be popped out or pushed in. We hope you enjoyed this latest video, don't forget to tell your friends!
Also don't forget about the 10-Day Apprenticeship contest going on right now! See details at https://www.proshaper.com/proshaper-c...
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23
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Straightening the shroud on an Austin-Healey 3000
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Straightening the Shroud on an Austin-Healey 3000
The ProShaper team wish you all a very Merry Christmas!
I hope you enjoyed the outtakes in the beginning. Wray can explain how to build a car from scratch all in 1 take but take 5 or 6 tries to get the ending right. That's the best part of filming! We tried to get rolling early on this latest video and our original plan was to use the frame machine to straighten the shroud. Then we realized not everyone has one so we tried to use random things that are easily accessible to all, this took us 2 hours and we started filming by 10pm. So with our system of using a come along, and a bunch of wood to lock the shroud to the table while using a 4x4 as a lever we attempted to see if we could make it work. As you can see we had some great progress! There was a dent in the back so using heat and a slapper we brought is down which also helped twist it back in to place. At the end Wray looks over the shroud, hits down the high spots and dents and shows how well the gauge fits at this point in time.
Also don't forget about the 10-Day Apprenticeship contest going on right now! See details at https://www.proshaper.com/proshaper-c...
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21
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How to repair severe body damage: Austin-Healey 3000 (Part 2)
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How to repair severe body damage: Austin-Healey 3000 (Part 2)
In the last episode of ProShaper Workshop Wray and Eric try to bring the Austin-Healey shroud back to it's original glory. They made a great amount of progress on it, and in this video it's more of the same. Wray softens the aluminum with the torch, heating it up to around 300 degrees Fahrenheit and then hitting the panel to bring down any high spots while trying to bring the arrangement back together. Wray uses an assortment of tools such as the big rubber mallet, a slapper, several dollies and body hammers. At the end, you see the amazing results after maybe 2 hours of work. The next part in this series will be planishing and arranging the panel. We hope you're enjoying this, let us know what else you would like to see!
Also don't forget about the 10-Day Apprenticeship contest going on right now! See details at https://www.proshaper.com/proshaper-c...
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36
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Austin-Healey 3000 Can it be saved?
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Austin-Healey 3000: Can it be saved?
As you well know, Wray a month or so ago bought out the contents of a coachbuilding shop. We have a multitude of panels from different cars but we came across this Austin-Healey 3000 shroud which is really crumpled on the passenger side. This is a great opportunity to show how with very simple and inexpensive tools, you can bring a panel back to it's original state (or as close to it). Wray with the help of Eric takes a piece of angle iron, bends it and drills holes in it corresponding to the shroud so when we bolt it on and use a hammer pull, the impact is spread out. Wray and Eric use a torch to move the process along and also using a mallet and the hammer pull to unfold the aluminum. Wray also uses a block of wood and a blacksmithing hammer to help arrange the smaller folds that require a slightly more delicate touch. This is hopefully an enjoyable video for you guys / gals, let us know if there is anything you might want to see in future videos!
Also don't forget about the 10-Day Apprenticeship contest going on right now! See details at https://www.proshaper.com/proshaper-contest/
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23
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Steps to make a panel: 52 Cadillac Convertible (Part 5) - [Contest Announcement]
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Steps to make a panel: 52 Cadillac Convertible (Part 5) - [Contest Announcement]
We're back on the Caddy Plate! Wray uses our 9" shrinking disc and 5" shrinking disc to smooth out any bugs left by the hammer or caulking tool. Wray then shows he's new tool using the Delrin to act as a planishing tool to make sure the flange at the end of the radius is completely even all the way through. Wray then talks about our contest we will be holding and the winner will receive a 10 day apprenticeship at ProShaper. More details can be found on our website.
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2
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English Wheel for beginners
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English Wheel for beginners
We really wanted to finish the Cadillac plinth plate but we should be back on it next week. So today Wray decided to go over the English wheel and gear it towards absolute beginners. He starts by cleaning the wheels and explaining all the parts from the yokes to the wheels. Then he compares aluminum vs. steel and how one moves faster than the other with the same amount of runs through the wheel. Then to get a better understand of all the capabilities the English Wheel provides, using Ed's Alfa Romeo Wray takes the panel over to the buck and explains the difference of area and arrangement. The area of the panel is mostly there but now using the English Wheel as a fulcrum and lever changes the arrangement to fit the buck. We hope you enjoy these videos and greatly appreciate your support!
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22
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How to make a compound curve
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How to make a compound curve
This video we're trying something different. This video is composed of parts from the English Wheel Basics series but it focuses more on the compound curve and how using a low crown anvil you can achieve great results in 10 minutes! Using the English wheel Wray is stretching the center of the sheet metal under medium pressure, adjusting as needed. He explains Area and Arrangement and the benefits of wheeling out of arrangement to achieve the area we want in the shortest amount of time. In total he was on the English wheel for 10 minutes and created a pretty standard compound curve that is roughly 2" high. I hope you like the little snippets in this video and if you would also like to see more short videos like this in the future!
Thank you Mike for the great email and ideas!
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11
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Vulcan Welder: Unboxing, Set up and Review
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Vulcan Welder: Unboxing, Set up and Review
After hearing some great things about the Vulcan Welder Wray decided to go out yesterday a purchase one. We picked up the Vulcan Protig 205 and this video describes what comes in the box, how to set it up and how Wray adjusts the settings when he tries to TIG weld steel sheet metal and then aluminum. Wray uses Argon on both the steel and aluminum and then also switches over to 50/50 helium argon mix. We will have a more encompassing welding video comparing a few welders and seeing which one we prefer.
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19
views