3VJohnny

Well well well. You wanted to cheap out and get some slick new aftermarket headlights of Ebay or Amazon, huh? After a while I'm sure you've noticed that those nice headlights aren't looking so good anymore. Cracked coating, yellowed, and all fogged over. Not exactly something that is nice to look at LOL! Well today, I figured I'd share my recent project of refinishing my eBay F150 Harley Davidson smoked headlights. They are a fraction of the cost of OEM units, but just are not made at the same quality. I sanded off the flaking coating, working from 220 Grit up to 3,000 grit. Then compounded and polished using Meguiars Ultimate Compound & Ultimate Polish. To seal is all my hard work and protect against UV Ray, I coated the lenses with Meguiars Headlight Coating. I will be sure to give a 6 month and 1 year update to see how the coating is holding up. My truck is garaged a lot, so I imagine it will hold up for quite some time. For $8-9, I figured it was worth the gamble. In time, as you'll see in the future, I plan to coat them with 2K clear. But that's for a later date when I have my shop! Thank you for watching! Link to Meguiars Headlight Coating: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-G17804-Keep-Clear-Headlight-Coating-4-oz/191830787

It's no surprise that many of us 2004-08 F150 owners would crave more power. It's not hard to believe that, when the mighty 5.4 3V was 300HP crank from the factory back in this generation. For the time it was ok, but now with nearly 400HP+ trucks ruling the road, it leaves many of us feeling like we are driving a slow turd. While I do plan on increasing the performance of my 5.4 3V in the coming years, I have battled with pursuing a coyote swap or just doing a turbo or supercharger. All of these options cost money, by my interest in fabrication has had me toying with a remote mount turbo and later forging my engine. I also would like to 6r80 swap my truck and the US Shift Quick 6 Controller is proving to be a valid option for running this transmission behind your existing engine. That is likely the route I will go. For others, the coyote swap with a 6r80 is incredibly appealing - and rightfully so. They get pretty solid fuel mileage and make impressive power stock. Let alone their ability to take boost and make 700HP+. I wanted to make this video as I see the "engine swap" question asked on a lot of forums and FB groups. The coyote is a phenomenal motor, but swapping the 2004-08 11th gen F-150 is not exactly a simple task. Let's not forget that it IS a major engine swap. And while the engine physical bolts in, you need a way to run the engine (factory coyote PCM or control pack or stand alone system such as one by Holley), a custom crossmember for the 6r80, a fuel system, trans lines, all sorts of connections for accessories such as AC and much more. These swaps will nickel and dime you and are not something you slap together in a weekend. This isn't the age of swapping a Chevy 350 or small block Ford! I have not completed this swap, but I have learned a lot over many years of following other builds, and many inquiring 11th gen owners fail to realize how involved these swaps really are on a newer truck like these F150's. If you are pursuing a swap, my hat is off to you, and I look forward to following along with your build!

I recently switched up my truck's exhaust after 5 years of rocking the Borla 40842S "Stinger" Muffler. It simply became unbearable inside the cab on the highway. I switched out the muffler to a 14" Borla Pro XS 400496. It has a similar tone, slightly less volume, but WAY less highway drone. This is the start of the process to fabricate my whole exhaust out of 304SS in 2021. I will be doing this myself. I originally had fabricated the cat back out of 16ga mild steel piping. I will also be taking you along for my quest to eliminate highway drone using different techniques. Link to the different Borla Mufflers: Borla Pro XS 400496: https://amzn.to/2LlM8RV Borla "Stinger" 40842S: https://amzn.to/3hDOIyV

In today's video I share why I replaced my Meguiar's Dual Action Polisher after more than a decade, with a Griot's Garage G9. Link to the G9: https://amzn.to/2LkZD4I 5" DA Backing Plate: https://amzn.to/3nHvFpx 3" DA Backing Plate: https://amzn.to/2WzDIbY Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/3v_johnny/

This is an overview on how to change the rear brake pads on a 2005-14 S197 Mustang GT. A few notes to cover: - I highly suggest using the proper grease as shown in the video, to lube your caliper slide pins. This is an important step that many overlook. The slide pins should stay lubricated to ensure that the caliper is able to move freely without restrictions. I did not show that step on my video. I chose to also use a bit of grease on the caliper mounting bolt so some grease makes it into the slide pin boot. - The orientation of the indents on the caliper piston must face up - right in line with the opening of the top of the caliper, as I noted in my correction. Link: Grease/Lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018PSASU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Brake Pads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FTUNDBO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Caliper Tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122Q83T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I fabbed up this exhaust for my truck in 2015. It's a Borla 40842s "Stinger" muffler with mandrel bent piping I MIG welded. It has 5" MBRP diesel tips and I used the RBP 2.5" tip adapters as the inlet on the tips is 4". The piping is aluminized steel and will later be replicated from 304ss. I also have magnaflow 94106 catalytic converters. This is an in cab video via cellphone camera. Best heard through a good stereo or headphones. Video shot at Bridgewater State University campus.