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How to remove the steering knuckle on a third generation 4wd Dodge Ram. This particular truck I am working with here today is a 2006 1500 model. #oemtools #dodgeram #dodgeram OEMTOOLS 24481 1/2" Drive Impact Wrench: https://www.mobiledistributorsupply.com/24481-heavy-duty-1-2-in-drive-jacob-s-chuck-impact-wrench-oem Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -22mm, 35mm sockets with ratchet -brass hammer -wire brush -torque wrench -jack with axle stand -large interlocking pliers -pliers -medium grade threadlocker Chapters: 00:00 Intro 00:16 Wheel Removal 00:56 Half Shaft Nut Removal 01:15 Brake Removal 01.49 Ball Joint & Tie Rod Separation 02:55 Steering Knuckle Removal 03:07 Steering Knuckle Installation Procedure: Elevate the front of the truck. Loosen and remove the 22 mm lug nuts. Remove the wheel and pop out the center cap. Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Lower the wheel back onto the ground. Using a 35 mm socket with a Johnson bar, loosen that axle nut. Jack up the wheel and remove. Crack the master cylinder reservoir cap to relieve any pressure when compressing the caliper pistons. Use a 22 mm socket with a half inch drive ratchet to loosen and remove those caliper carrier bolts. Compressed the pistons in the caliper using large interlocking pliers. Remove the caliper, pad, and carrier assembly. Tied it up to the frame so it’s not hanging by the rubber flex line. Remove the rotor. Place it somewhere safe so it doesn’t come into contact with any oil or grease. If your ball joints and tie rod are equipped with castle nuts, you will need to remove the cotter pins. They may also be equipped with stover nuts therefore there are no pins needed to be removed. Remove the tie rod. The nut was made flush with the stud, and it was hit with a hammer to disconnect a taper. Then place it off to the side. Remove that half shaft axle nut. If the spline is stuck into place, you can use a lead or brass hammer to help break it free. Remove the nut for the upper ball joint. A pickle fork or ball joint separator can be used to break this connection free. You may even be able to use a hammer to hit upward on the threaded stud. Keep in mind this is under tension so it will spring back. I had to make extension arms for my ball joint separator as it wasn’t large enough for the lower ball joint. A tool is available for this however at the time of this disassembly, it was on backorder for over six months. Once disconnected, then remove the steering knuckle and disconnect the spline for the half shaft. Use a strap to hold the axle in place so it doesn’t come apart. As for reassembly, the spline is slid into place in the wheel bearing assembly. The steering knuckle is then lifted to the lower ball joint and then the castle nut is installed. I jacked up the lower control arm to put some tension on the suspension so it’s easier to install the upper ball joint. Medium grade thread locker is applied to the half shaft threaded portion and then the nut is installed. Use a pry bar to pull down the upper control arm. The coil spring was used as a leverage point. Once it’s in place, install the castle note. Then is install the tire rod. Tighten the upper ball joint. The upper ball joint torque specification is 40ft lbs or 54 nm. Tighten the tie rod. The tie rod nut torque specification is 45 ft lbs or 61 nm. Tighten the lower ball joint. The lower ball joint torque specification is 38 ft lbs or 52 nm. The rotor is then reinstalled. A wire brush is used to clean away any rust or debris so we don’t have any runout. If you have old hubs, a wire brush is recommended to be used on these. Install the caliper assembly. The torque specifications for the caliper carrier bolts are 130 ft-lbs or 176 nm. Install the wheel. You may need to clean the hub mounting face in the wheel to ensure there’s no runout again. Considering these are aluminum wheels, I would recommend using a brass wire brush. The torque specifications for the lug nuts is 135 ft-lbs or 183 nm. Finally is tightening that half shaft axle nut. The half shaft nut torque specification is 185 ft lbs or 250 nm. Reinstall the center cap and then lower the vehicle back onto the ground. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to remove and grease the front axle cv joints in a third generation Dodge Ram 4wd. This particular truck I am working with here today is a 2006 1500 model. A CV joint needing grease may have resistance when rotating, cause a vibration, or a growling noise. However you don’t have long to grease a CV joint, it’s always moving when the truck is in motion therefore it can cause damage quickly eventually requiring a replacement. #oemtools #dodgeram #dodgeram1500 OEMTOOLS 24481 1/2" Drive Impact Wrench: https://www.mobiledistributorsupply.com/24481-heavy-duty-1-2-in-drive-jacob-s-chuck-impact-wrench-oem Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -8mm, 22mm, 35mm sockets with ratchet -brass hammer -wire brush -torque wrench -jack with axle stand -large interlocking pliers -pliers -medium grade threadlocker -pry bar -hammer -grease -band clamps -band clamp crimper -rotary tool with cutting disk -safety glasses -paper towel Procedure: Elevate the front of the truck. Remove the 22 mm lug nuts. Remove the wheel, pop out the center cap, and then reinstall the wheel. Lower the vehicle back onto the ground. Use a 35 mm socket to loosen that axle nut. Finally remove the wheel. Crack the master cylinder reservoir cap. Compressed the pistons in the caliper using large interlocking pliers. Use a 22 mm socket with a half inch drive ratchet to loosen and remove those caliper carrier bolts. Remove the caliper, pad, and carrier assembly. Tied it up to the frame and then remove the rotor. If the ball joints and tie rod is equipped with castle nuts, you will need to remove the cotter pins. Remove the tie rod. Using an 8mm, remove the bolts holding on the fender liner. Push the fender liner in towards the frame, then unclip it from around the fender’s edge, and pull out that fender liner. Disconnect the electrical connector for the ABS sensor, there will be a red clip that needs to be pulled out. A standard screwdriver is best for this. Remove the nut for the upper ball joint and then disconnect the joint. Remove the nut on the lower ball joint and then disconnect the joint. Remove that half shaft axle nut. Once disconnected, remove the steering knuckle and disconnect the spline for the half shaft. Remove the axle, this can be done using a pry bar. It’s best to force the axle straight out, it’ll disconnect the easiest. If the pry bar is slightly pushing the axle on an angle, it’ll make the clip disconnection much harder. Another option is using a smaller hammer to gently hit out the axle to help with the clip disconnection. One out, place it on a piece of cardboard which will help contain the mess. A brass wire brush is used to clean up any stuck debris so the cv joint doesn’t become contaminated when the boot is removed. I’m not completely disassembling these as the boots are still good. I will only be cutting off the larger band clamps to roll the boot back. I’m using a rotary tool with a cutting disc. Take your time, it doesn’t need to be fully cut as you can use something under the clip to break away the remaining material. The is a spot welded clamp. With paper towel, use your finger to scrape out the old grease. Additional paper towel is used to wipe away any remaining exposed grease. I didn’t use a solvent to wash away any grease because that would require a full disassembly to grease those other areas. Once cleaned, pack new grease inside the boot around the joint. As for the type of grease used in CV joints, it is a specific grease required for this application and it’ll be stated on the side of the tube. You’ll want to make sure the component inside is sufficiently covered. Too much grease will cause a build up of heat, which can expand and be forced out or cause premature wear on the joint. Wipe any grease residue from the outside and then push the boot back on. Install the new clamp. You’ll need to know the diameter of the clamp’s location to pick the correct sized clamp. Wrap the clamp around the boot, then lock it into place. A hammer can be used to help lock in those tabs as they may not be angled right. Using an ear clamp crimping tool, crimp the clamp. The other components are installed in reverse of removal. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to remove mildew stains from carpet. This is a boat interior, unfortunately with excessive moisture exposure and improper care, mildew can form on carpets and with this being white, it’s very noticeable. These stains were throughout the whole ceiling so as you can see there are the clean areas and then what was before. #mildew #OEMTOOLS #autodetailing OEMTOOLS 12" Tilting Workspace Fan: https://www.mobiledistributorsupply.com/oem24892-oemtools-oem24892 Amazon affiliated links USA: Spray Nine: https://amzn.to/3Vk4yBP Resolve Upholstery Cleaner: https://amzn.to/3Fiy5WV Upholstery Brush: https://amzn.to/3B3We12 Moisture Absorber: https://amzn.to/3VqbgGA Canada: Spray Nine: https://amzn.to/3ixXKlC Resolve Upholstery Cleaner: https://amzn.to/3gSQhgx Upholstery Brush: https://amzn.to/3iziVnq Moisture Absorber: https://amzn.to/3iyP3rd Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -toothbrush -carpet brush -carpet cleaner -wet/dry vacuum -bucket of water -fan -gloves -tarp Procedure: To save some video time, I have already done this. I would recommend vacuuming the carpet to remove any debris in the carpet. Next is putting up a barrier, this will be needed depending on the products you are using. Some mildew products contain bleach and this can damage colors in fabrics, the tarp will act as protection. I did try one product specifically for mildew from the boating aisle, however I found it didn’t work as well compared to what I already had. Spray Nine I find worked great for this, actually it works quite well as an all around cleaner. Spray the solution directly onto the mildew spots and let it soak in for a couple of minutes. I would highly recommend wearing gloves, some cleaners can be quite harsh on your skin. Depending on how delicate your carpet is, something like a soft toothbrush can be used or you can use a carpet brush. Always do a test in a small not so visible area ensuring you’re not damaging a larger area. Scrub the carpet in multiple directions, working the fibers back and forth to remove that stain. The brush can be dipped in water to help keep the surface wet. Don’t over saturate the carpet, this will need to dry after. After that I then followed up with a fabric cleaner, and for this I picked resolve. The spray is applied to the area, let it soak in for a couple of moments and then follow up with a brush again. Work in multiple directions and rinse the brush in clean water as needed. Follow up with a wet/dry vacuum to remove any cleaning solution and moisture from the carpet. Doing so will help reduce the chance of mildew forming from the newly wet carpet and prevent any chance of foul smells. If you do notice there are some spots still existing, again go over the area using the same previous steps. Depending on how bad the stains are, it may need a third time. Then finish up with the vacuum. A wet/dry vacuum can only be used as it’s able to handle moisture exposure. Once satisfied, let the area dry. With these being a boat, airflow may be limited in the cuddy cabin so I would highly recommend using a fan. And as you can see here is what I’m left with once the area has dried. During storage or even when I keep it in the water, I’ll keep a moisture absorbent container or pale. This will remove any moisture in the air preventing any condensation from forming on surfaces which in turn will promote mildew or mold growth. Some are refilled, and others require a replacement once used up. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to remove that fuzzy look from carpet. This can be used on vehicles, home interior carpets, boats, etc. For this I am using my boat as an example. Other times as carpet ages and as it’s exposed to friction from use or is constantly cleaned, this can cause a fuzzy clumpy looking appearance such as shown here. I’ll show you a before and after in a moment as it can be a bit hard to see the difference right now. #detailing #autodetailing #carpetcleaning Amazon affiliated links: US: Hair clippers/trimmers: https://amzn.to/3Y9dACt Vacuum: https://amzn.to/3xNrsaK Canada: Hair clippers/trimmers: https://amzn.to/3Ev85Hg Vacuum: https://amzn.to/3Iimtn8 Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -hair trimmer -vacuum cleaner Procedure: Here I am just using a regular hair trimmer, these can have various attachments to achieve whatever length you desire. For this I am using 1/4” in length, however you can experiment depending on your carpet or what your personal preference may be. My recommendation would be to start with a longer length first and then work your way down to shorter lengths. Once you cut it too short, you can’t go back. I find it’s best to work in one direction and then in the other direction. Take your time, try not to pull the fibers or stick the depth attachments into the carpet base. This can get messy so it may be best to follow with a vacuum as you’re cutting or working in an area where the fibers can fall onto a smooth surface if the carpeted area is removable. Again I’m doing the same procedure for the opposite panel. Taking my time, working in multiple directions. Once done, then follow up with a vacuum to remove those loose cut fibers. Again work in multiple directions. This will greatly clean up the aesthetics of the carpet along with its feel. After that these panels are then ready to be reinstalled in my boat. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to clean and apply a tire shine. There are various tire shines available on the market, some are better than others. This particular version is a dye style that can last for easily a few months and doesn’t leave a greasy finish behind. Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -tire shine -hose and water -brush -tire cleaner -air compressor -rubber gloves -q-tips -isopropyl alcohol -clean rags Procedure: First is cleaning the tires. This is needed so we have a good base for the tire shine to stick and provide a deep black look. For this, I prefer using a pressure washer as it’ll wash away any dirt or grime easily. Using a specific tire cleaner or some other form of multipurpose cleaner is applied to the tire and allowed to soak in for a moment. Then, using a brush, scrub the sidewall of the tire. Working multiple directions at various angles, to ensure all the edges are clean and free of any debris. Then using the pressure washer, wash away the soap residue and any debris. Do the same for the other wheels as well. First is rinsing them with the pressure washer. Then is applying the cleaner. Scrub the tire down with a brush. Finally finish up with rinsing the tire. Unfortunately, with the truck parked on the ground, The part of the sidewall closest to the ground can sometimes be hard to wash so it’s best to either drive the vehicle forward or backward, rotating this part up. Continue the same process as previously with washing the tire. The tires may take a little time to dry, but to speed this process up you can use compressed air to blow off any excess water. Even consider taking the vehicle for a drive to help dry the rubber. Now is using the tire product. As mentioned previously, there are various types of products on the market. The one I am using, I believe is a die that does last for a few months. This particular product I don’t believe this is available on the market anymore. Typically it is good to wear rubber gloves, so no product gets on your head. They will come with a foam applicator, the solution will need to be applied to this, and then it rubbed onto the tire. Considering that I have raised white lettering, this can be hard to work around. I used a razor knife to cut down the applicator, so it’s smaller, to get into those narrower areas. Working multiple directions, you may even need to dab the applicator in certain areas to help apply the product on textured portions. If you do get any product on the raised white lettering, you can use a cloth with isopropyl alcohol to help clean it off. Around the raised white lettering, I would recommend using a Q-tip saturated with the tire shine product. This is a time consuming task, which does require patience. Some tire shines such as this one may require a second coat to achieve a different type of shine. You’ll need to wait for the first coat to dry, this could take anywhere from 10 minutes to 30 minutes. Then apply that second coat in the same way as the first coat. Just like washing the tires, there will be a hidden area that is an easily accessible. So the vehicle will need to be moved to rotate this area upward and then apply tire shine to the surface. Depending on the tire shine, dry times may vary. Once dry here you can see what I’m left with. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to remove or replace a BMW FRM, also known as a footwell module in a 3 series for the models e90, e91, e92, and e93. Unfortunately my module bricked up during a scan when the battery died. Lessoned learned on my part and hopefully this can be a warning for others when working on this generation of 3 series, make sure you have a trickle charger on your battery when running scans for longer periods. A bricked or faulty FRM will cause issues such as no gauge lights, only the low beams will work, no fog lights, no license plate lights, no interior lights, keyless entry not locking the doors, non-functioning windows, no power mirrors, not being able to erase the check engine light, and footwell module fault on an OBD2 reader. #FOXWELL #DEOXIT #BMW #BMWE90 #BMW335d Foxwell NT530 Scanner: https://www.foxwelldiag.com/products/foxwell-nt530?variant=40625470537894&ref=5 DeoxIT Gold Kit: https://caig.com/product/deoxit-deoxit-gold-kit-k-dg100l-2db/ Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -10mm socket with 6" extension and 3/8" ratchet -nylon trim tool -interlocking pliers -Deoxit D100L terminal cleaner/protectant -OBD2 scanner -phillips screwdriver -T20 torx driver Procedure: Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Remove the three t20 torx screws under the dashboard. Then pull the panel down and straight back. You will need to disconnect the electrical plug on the left, the speaker, and then the light. There is a small component on the left side of the panel towards the front. I was having trouble with this connection, and instead of risking the chance of damaging it, I simply pulled back the tabs and disconnected it from the plastic panel instead. Then the plastic trim panel can be fully removed. Using a nylon, trim tool, pry up the trim panel along the door opening. There are four clips underneath. These clips may stay in place and I will show you how to remove them before installing this panel back in place. As you can see behind the hood release latch, there will be a Phillips screw. The hood release lever also needs to be removed, this is also held in with a Phillips screw Remove these two screws, the hood release lever simply slides onto a rotational knob. After that is pulling off the panel, the electrical plug for the trunk release will need to be disconnected. For the football module, there will be two 10mm plastic nuts, holding this in place. The nut on the top side will need the wires to be pushed up. There are white levers on each of the connectors, there are three in total. There is a small tab that needs to be pushed in, the lever can be pulled back, and the plug will be removed from its location on the module. Here’s a quick view of the module once it has been removed, you can see the two bolt locations at the top and bottom slots. Installation is in reverse of removal. You will need to tuck the module in on the top side and then push it back into place on the bottom side. The electrical connectors will need to be plugged in before having the module fully seated. Make sure those white levers are out and push the connector into place and the lever will need to be retracted back into place at the same time. As for the plastic nuts, start the top one first and then start the bottom one. I have reconnected the battery to ensure everything is working as it should before installing the rest of the trim panels. As for removing those plastic clips, use interlocking players, wiggle the clip back and forth and pull straight up at the same time. Reinstall that sidekick panel. Plug in the trunk switch. The door gasket will need to be pulled back so it’s slipped under it. Slide the panel into the one clip and then snap it back into place on the other one closer to the footrest. Install the lower screw behind the hood lever. Install the hood release lever, and then threaded the other screw. After that is reconnecting, all those electrical connections on that top trim panel. Ensure they are all properly snapped into place. If one of the fiber, optic connections are not fully seated, you will lose some radio function. Push the panel back into place. Then reinstall the screws. Reinstall those clips back onto the trim panel, they simply slide into place. Then snap the panel back into place. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to replace the cab light on your third generation Dodge Ram with an LED from Auxbeam. For this I’m using my 2006 1500 truck, however this tutorial may apply to other Dodge truck models as well. Upgrading your cab light to an LED will greatly improve your visibility at night when loading cargo, can assist when reversing, and if your cab light is activated when using your keyless entry. As a bonus, it also helps with those pesky tailgaters. #auxbeam #dodgeram #ledlights Auxbeam: https://shrsl.com/3uo1c Replacement LED Bulbs: https://shrsl.com/3uo1f Amazon affiliated links: US: Rear center high mount light (PN: 5072594AD): https://amzn.to/3IMIcFl Rear center high mount light harness (PN: 5072577AA): https://amzn.to/41k6IVp Canada: Rear center high mount light (PN: 5072594AD): https://amzn.to/3xL05xV Rear center high mount light harness (PN: 5072577AA): https://amzn.to/3kdMQTq Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -new replacement LED bulbs -phillips screwdriver -clean cloth Procedure: Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws on each side of the light. This can be done when everything is in place, however for a better view, I will be doing this with the light assembly removed. This is also a great opportunity to clean around the light removing any debris which may cause sealing issues. To remove the light, there is a white electrical that needs to be disconnected. Here’s the replacement bulb from Auxbeam for the factory 912 type bulb. This has a 400% improved brightness, 360° illumination output, 2600 lm, and a color temperature of 6500 kelvin. These have a built-in canbus no flash or no flicker so you won’t have any errors on your truck, is made from 6063 aluminum and will have a life span of 50,000 hours. They come in a package of two, no modifications are required for the installation. Now you can see the rear side of the light assembly. There is a gasket all the way around, ensure this is clean before re-assembly as these can be known to cause leaks in your cab. The outer lights are for the cargo feature. The connectors simply twist into place, rotate counterclockwise, and then pull out. To remove the bulbs, they simply unplug. Then install the new LED bulbs. These simply push back into place, making sure they are fully seated. Twist the sockets back into place ensuring they are seated correctly. There is a view once they are in place, they do sit slightly deeper than the factory bulbs, however, this won’t cause any issues. Plug that white connector back into place and sure it is working correctly before installing the screws. Here’s a quick comparison between the old and new bulbs. On the left is the LED and on the right is the factory incandescent. You can see we have a quicker start up time, the LED provides a pure white light and its brightness is also greatly increased as compared to the old incandescent version. After that is installing the screws. Don’t over-tighten them as they are only going into plastic clips. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to remove and replace the bulbs in the center mount cab light on a third generation Dodge Ram 1500. This is a 2006 model, however a similar process can be applied to other models as well. #eManualOnline #dodgeram #dodgetrucks eManualOnline: bit.ly/3BTq3lp 20% Discount Code: 4DIYERS20 Amazon affiliated links: US: Rear center high mount light (PN: 5072594AD): https://amzn.to/3IMIcFl Rear center high mount light harness (PN: 5072577AA): https://amzn.to/41k6IVp 912 incandescent replacement bulbs: https://amzn.to/3ZimRsR Auxbeam LED 912 light upgrade: https://amzn.to/3ImXsXR Canada: Rear center high mount light (PN: 5072594AD): https://amzn.to/3xL05xV Rear center high mount light harness (PN: 5072577AA): https://amzn.to/3kdMQTq 912 incandescent replacement bulbs: https://amzn.to/3KDA5vQ Auxbeam LED 912 light upgrade: https://amzn.to/3Zdh07T Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -phillips screwdriver -replacement light bulbs Procedure: Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws on each side of the light assembly. There will be two small nylon washers, don’t lose these. The bulbs can be twisted counterclockwise and pulled out of their location while everything is in place. Or you have the option of pushing in the tab on the white connector, then pulling the connection apart. I prefer removing the connector as it’s easier to clean the gasket and sealing surface around the assembly to ensure we have no water leaks after reinstallation. Clean the area around the light, this should be done otherwise this can potentially cause a water leak. Once the light is out, here is the assembly. As you can see there are two cargo lights, one on each side. Then the third brake light is in the center. These bulbs as shown earlier simply twist out of their location for removal. Twist counterclockwise and pull straight out. If you are required to troubleshoot any electrical problems relating to this lighting circuit or any other specific areas, I would recommend checking out eManualOnline for dealer specific repair manuals. These are available in a PDF format so you can put this on your phone or laptop, being able to work right beside your vehicle and determine what exactly is wrong. These will allow you to save money using proper diagnostic procedures, pinpointing what exactly needs to be done for a repair. As you can see scrolling through the manual for my truck, there are detailed wiring diagrams, diagnostic procedures and removal steps just for this lighting circuit. eManualOnline has hooked me up with a 20% discount code for site wide, it’s 4DIYERS20, make sure you also use my referral link in the video description, this will allow me to make a percentage for each sale to help keep my channel going. To replace the bulbs, they simply pull out of their location, then the new bulbs are pushed into place. The connector is then reinstalled back into the assembly. Plug the electrical connector back into place, then install the light. Make sure it’s in place, before installing the screws I did test out the light to ensure it’s working correctly. Then the screws are installed. Many people ask me where I get my torque values for fasteners, I get them from manuals as I mentioned earlier. So for these screws, the torque specifications are 20 inch pounds or 2 NM. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

Video review on these LED upgraded bulbs from Auxbeam. These are the 912, 921, T15, or W16W LED bulb replacements that was used to upgrade my excessively dim cargo lights on my third generation Dodge Ram. A link to this bulb will be included in the video description. Rated at 20w, 400% increase in brightness, non-polarity so they can installed either way, no canbus errors, no flickers and no flashing. Made with 6063 aluminum construction with quick heat dissipation, and has a lifespan of 50,000 hours. #ledlights #auxbeam #dodgeram Auxbeam: https://shrsl.com/3uo1c Replacement LED Bulbs: https://shrsl.com/3uo1 Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Here is the new replacement bulb, as you can see there is two to a pack. Rated at 20w, 400% increase in brightness, non-polarity so they can installed either way, no canbus errors, no flickers and no flashing. Made with 6063 aluminum construction with quick heat dissipation, and has a lifespan of 50,000 hours. As a brief overview the replacement is very straight forward and no modifications are required. The light assembly is removed from the cab, it’s held in with two phillips screws. Once out, this can be done in place or completely disconnect the assembly. I preferred the second route as I can provide a better demonstration. The cargo lights are on the outside, there are two in total. The Auxbeam replacements come two in a package. Twist the connector counterclockwise and pull it straight out. The bulbs simply pull straight out of the connectors. Here is a comparison between the incandescent and the new LED replacement. As you can see they’re roughly the same size. They are the same diameter with a slightly higher profile which fits into the light assembly fine. They have a 360 degree light output design maximizing it’s illumination. A stock 912 incandescent bulb is rated at 150 lumens while this new LED replacement from Auxbeam is rated at 2600 lumens. Push in the new bulbs into each connector. Then install the connector back into the assembly, then twist clockwise to lock it back in. Once in place, here you can see them inside the assembly. With the slightly higher profile, they do extend inside further but does not interfere with the construction. After that is install the light assembly, plug the connector back into place. Here is a test with the new LEDs. Then a test with the LED on the left and the incandescent on the right. As you can see there is a substantial increase in brightness plus a much cleaner color. The LED also has a faster start-up time. Finally is installing those phillips screws. Now a comparison at night. First a view from the rear of the truck. The LEDs have a color rating of 6500 kelvin which is a cool white, must cleaner than the incandescent bulbs. As you can see the ground around the truck is substantially more lite with the LEDs. Now a view from the truck side. This is a great upgrade for having more views at night when loading your truck, reversing, using your keyless entry when walking to your vehicle, or even getting rid of those pesky tailgaters. This bulb also has an IP68 rating and only has a current draw of 0.09 amps vs the incandescent where it’s about 1 amp meaning less load on your electrical system. Overall this is a great upgrade for anyone’s truck. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to upgrade your headlights from halogen to LED in your Mazda CX9. This is a 2015 model which is the face-lifted version of the first generation, however this upgrade can be applied to other CX9 models along with other Mazda models as they are known to have dim headlight issues. This is my girlfriend’s vehicle, so a big shoutout to her for letting me use it for this demonstration. I will have a full in-depth review in the upcoming weeks. She was noticing extremely poor low beam, lighting performance while driving at night with the factory halogen bulbs. The headlight lenses are still in good condition so that isn’t having a huge effect on the light output. After some searching online, I did find that Mazda does have a common problem in this generation across the different models with poor headlight performance. #mazdacx9 #ledlights #Bevinsee Product link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003116507952.html $4.00 off over $39.00 10% Discount Code: BEVINSEEV451 Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -10mm socket -3" extension -3/8" drive ratchet -new replacement bulbs Procedure: The replacement is fairly straightforward, minimal tools are needed. Starting with the passenger side first. The coolant reservoir tank will need to be removed. Using a 3/8 drive ratchet with a 3 inch extension and a 10 mm socket, remove the three bolts on the coolant reservoir. Once those bolts have been removed, then you can push the reservoir back towards the windshield, do not disconnect the lines. Remove the domed cover by rotating counterclockwise. Then to access the bulb, Unclipped the connector and rotate the bulb counterclockwise then pull it straight out. The camera angles for this are quite limited, however I’ll provide a better photo for the driver’s side. Finally installing the new bulb replacement, plug in the electrical connector. These bulbs are polarity sensitive, so test the bulbs first before finalizing the installation. If it doesn’t work, simply rotate the connector 180 degrees. When putting the bulb in the house, you’ll need to rotate the bulb and work by feel to find those alignment tabs, making sure they are properly in place. Push the bulb in, then rotate clockwise to lock it in. Always give the bulb a pullback to make sure it is locked in place. Then fasten down the coolant reservoir. Install those 3 10mm bolts and tighten. Do not over tighten as this is only plastic. Moving onto the driver’s side. Again the domed cap will need to be removed behind the headlight. There will be plastic tabs around the perimeter of the domed cap, grab onto these and twist counterclockwise, then remove. It was hard for me to get a camera in here without my hand being in the way. As you can see there is the bulb and wire connector. You can unclip the connector first or after one the bulb is out, whatever is easier for you. For me, I pulled out the tang on the electrical connector and then pushed it off the light. I then rotated the bulb counterclockwise, and pull out the bulb from the assembly. Plug in the electrical connector for the bulb. Again make sure the polarity is correct. Then install the bulb into the headlight assembly, align those tabs, push the bulb into place and rotate clockwise until it stops. Finally is installing the protective cap. Rotate until you can feel those alignment tabs lock into place, then rotate clockwise until it stops. Here is a comparison between the old halogen on the left and the led upgrade on the right. The whiter light will greatly help with eye fatigue, there is a substantial increase in light output with the led, they greatly improve the aesthetics of the vehicle, have quicker startup time, and have a lower operating temperature reducing the deterioration of the plastic headlight lenses. The projector housing work great with LEDs as they help focus the light and don’t cause an irritant for fellow motorists. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

Review on these H8, H9, or H11 replacement LED headlight bulbs from Bevinsee. As you may have seen not long ago, these were installed in a 2015 Mazda CX9. From my searches online, Mazda does seem to have an issue with poor headlight performance around this generation so this was certainly a great opportunity to test these out. This is their V45 model. #mazdacx9 #Bevinsee #ledlights Product link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003116507952.html $4.00 off over $39.00 10% Discount Code: BEVINSEEV451 Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ As a quick replacement overview, you’ll be required to access the rear of the light. Specifically for the Mazda CX9, there is a plastic domed cap with needs to be removed. Once removed, we then have access to the inside of the assembly where the factory style halogen bulb is located. Remove the electrical connector and then rotate the bulb counterclockwise to remove it. They come as a pair in a pack and are rated to be 300% brighter and as mentioned earlier this is their V45 series. Included in the box will also be a generic installation guide. No modifications are required for the installation, they are a direct plug and play. The only thing that will need to be determined is that they have the correct polarity, however that is easily done by testing the bulbs before finalizing the installation. If the bulb doesn’t illuminate, then flip the plug around. They are equipped with heat sinks and a built-in cooling fan, feature an aluminum construction and have an IP68 rating. The pair is rated at 120w with a brightness of 22,000 lumens, substantially brighter than compared to a stock halogen bulb. These are designed in such a way to have a light cutoff, not blinding fellow motorists on the road. These are being used in a projector housing as well which further helps direct the light output properly. And they have a 100,000 hour lifespan as well. As you can see there is also the module attached to the light, this will be positioned inside the headlight housing. Here is a comparison between the factory halogen bulb and the LED before it’s installed back into the headlight assembly. As you can see there is a substantial increase in output and a much cleaner color improving visibility. As mentioned earlier these are polarity sensitive, so test the bulbs before finalization the installation. If the light doesn’t illuminate, it’s as simple as flipping around the plug to switch the negative and positive. Install the light into the assembly. Make sure those 3 tabs are aligned, push it into place and then rotate clockwise to lock it in. The module is then placed inside the house. I would recommend using a cable tie to hold the module in place when possible. In this scenario this wasn’t an option due to the design of the headlights. After that is installing the plastic domed cap back into place. Align those tabs, then rotate clockwise to lock it in. Here is a comparison between the lights, the LED is on the right and the factory style halogen is on the left. The vehicle still used halogen on the high beams, which is a separate bulb which is why you’re seeing different colors within one light. The LED has a much faster start up time including full light output almost immediately. The LEDs are a great factory upgrade without making any modifications to your vehicle. The LED upgrades help improve your safety at night, has a lower operating temperature which helps reduce the deterioration of your headlight assemblies, lower voltage demand reducing the load on your electrical system, and modernize the look of your vehicle. The bulbs are rated at 6000 kelvin which is compared to a mid day type light with a slightly blue tint. This cleaner color output does greatly help reduce eye fatigue when driving at night as well as safely illuminating any objects on the road. The lights are designed in such a way to provide a 360 degree of illumination, matching the angle of the halogen bulbs. Overall I must say I’m very happy with their performance and am quite surprised how much of an improvement they made with the extremely poor performance of the factory bulbs. This is a must have for anyone doing night driving, especially if you live outside of the city. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to to clean or replace the MAP or also known as a boost sensor on a BMW M57. This particular car I am working with here today is a 2010 BMW 335d E90. A similar procedure can be applied to the BMW X5 diesel, 5 series, and 7 series of the same generation equipped with the M57. A faulty boost sensor will cause your car to go into limp mode. Under heart acceleration, cause a loss of power, reduce fuel economy, and trigger a check engine light. The BMW specific code which can be triggered in 429A. #oemtools #foxwell #BMWM57 Amazon affiliated links: US: BMW MAP Sensor (PN: 13627792260): https://amzn.to/3YRsq1B Sensor cleaner: https://amzn.to/3m0BNNA Canada: BMW MAP Sensor (PN: 13627792260): https://amzn.to/3IvseOC Sensor cleaner: https://amzn.to/3KN2YGn OEMTOOLS Foldable Trays: https://www.mobiledistributorsupply.com/26052-oemtoolstools-oemtools-26052-magnetic-foldable-tray-4-pack Foxwell NT530 Scanner: https://www.foxwelldiag.com/products/foxwell-nt530?variant=40625470537894&ref=5 Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -sensor safe cleaner -OBD2 scanner -5mm allen wrench -8mm socket with screwdriver handle Procedure: To access the sensor, the engine cover will need to be removed. To remove that engine cover, the cowl in front of the windshield will need to be removed first. Remove the cabin filter cover, which is held on with six 8mm bolts, then lift off. Next will be removing the two outer covers, these are simply snapped into place. Pull the tabs back and lift off the covers. Next will be removing the two 8mm bolts holding on the windshield cowl. The wire going across the top needs to be pulled out of its clips. We won’t be fully removing the cowl, just have it unbolted, so we're able to pull it up when putting the engine cover back into place. Using an allen wrench, remove the five 5mm socket head bolts. Use a clean cloth to wipe around the oil fill cap, then remove it. Lift the engine cover out of place then and place it somewhere safe. Reinstall that oil cap so nothing falls inside the engine. The boost sensor is on top of the intake manifold towards the back under the cowl on the driver's side. Depress the tag and then pull the plug off. Then pull the sensor back-and-forth, gently, rocking it out of its grommet. You may or may not need to replace this grommet if it is dried out from the heat. You can use a toothpick to clean out this port before washing it with a solvent. For cleaning the boost sensor, I would recommend a sensor safe base cleaner. Have a paper towel handy, this will allow us to see if there is any debris coming out of the small port. Spray the cleaner inside the sensor and then flip it upside down, so the solvent drains out. Gently, tapping the sensor on top of the paper towel might help dislodge any debris inside. The white paper towel also shows if any debris is being removed along with ensuring the solution is clean when emptying. Once no more debris is coming out, the sensor is then clean and ready to be reinstalled. I did let the sensor dry for a few minutes, so the solvent did evaporate. Push the sensor back into place. Then snap the electrical connector back into place. Remove the oil fill cap. Reinstall the engine cover. there are tabs on the backside which needs to lock into the rear cover. Lift the cowl and make sure everything is aligned correctly. Reinstall that oil fill cap. Reinstall the socket head bolts back into the engine cover. Snap the wiring harness back into place. Finally is bolting down the cowl. Make sure to line it up correctly, and install the two 8 mm bolts along the fender sides. Reinstall the cabin filter and install those 8 mm bolts. Snap the outer covers back into place After that is clearing the engine codes, removing that boost sensor fault. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to disassemble and replace the battery on a Mazda key fob. A battery replacement is required when you find the range becoming shorter on your remote, you’ll notice a key battery symbol on your gauge cluster or you may not be able to start your vehicle and you’re required to use the key. The disassembly procedure here can also be used to replace any components on the fob such as the case or buttons. #mazda #keyfob #mazdacx9 Amazon affiliated links: US: Battery: https://amzn.to/3Kdzh0J New key fob case: https://amzn.to/3IzmPqX Canada: Battery: https://amzn.to/3KlHvDZ New key fob case: https://amzn.to/3YDKonW Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -standard screwdriver -CR2032 battery Procedure: Go to the rear, pull out the latch, using your nail and remove the key from the case. This will expose two cut out portions, one on each side to insert a flat screwdriver to pry apart the backside of the case. Using a standard screwdriver, gently pry apart the case. Be sure not to use a sharp screwdriver as you can damage the plastic easily. The case can be split down on either side, with a portion in the center holding everything together. For me, the case did split apart on the opposite side. Once that one side has been split apart, this will expose the circuit board along with the button panel. if your buttons or case are worn, sometimes replacements can be purchased online and you were only required to switch over the circuit board. Back with a screwdriver now trying to split apart that center portion. Once it has been removed, here, you can see where the battery is located. Remove the round protector on the battery, under this will be the battery. This requires a CR2032 battery. The battery simply slides into place with the positive portion facing up against that round protector cap. Install the new battery, and then the protective. Then snap the center portion into the back portion of the case. Push around the perimeter ensuring it is locked into place. Now snap the button portion with the circuit board back in place. The key can now be clipped back into place. It may be hard to see her on camera, but when each button is pushed, this will illuminate a small, red LED light. This is to demonstrate that the keyless remote is working. After that, you are officially done. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to rust stains in the carpet. For this I will be providing two different methods and this example is being done on boat carpet, however this can be applied to other forms of carpet as well. To avoid this, don’t set bare steel on the carpet for extended periods. It’s always good to test these methods on a small not so visible area first to make sure you don’t damage your material. #rust #autodetailing #detailing Amazon affiliated links: US: Carpet cleaner: https://amzn.to/3Ekc9d5 Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/4139cHH Carpet brush: https://amzn.to/3lHQXY4 Toothbrush: https://amzn.to/3XzmJE1 Vinegar: https://amzn.to/3k3wZ9G Salt: https://amzn.to/3xxWoeI Canada: Carpet cleaner: https://amzn.to/3I7ANPe Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/3Z3bqVL Carpet brush: https://amzn.to/3YVWuZm Toothbrush: https://amzn.to/3KcBrxH Vinegar: https://amzn.to/3XDjfA7 Salt: https://amzn.to/3YD9SSA Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -soft brush -carpet brush -hydrogen peroxide -vinegar -salt -wet/dry vacuum Procedure: Always vacuum the carpet first to remove any debris and to fluff up the carpet fibers. For the first method, I’m using hydrogen peroxide. This isn’t diluted with water, apply it to the rust strains and let it soak in for 5-10 minutes. Use a soft brush to agitate the surface working in different directions. You can let the hydrogen peroxide soak a few more minutes after this if you wish. After that I applied a carpet cleaner to freshen up the area. I was having issues with using the sprayer on the carpet cleaner due to the angle of the bottle, so I removed the sprayer and rotated the pick-up straw inside 180 degrees. When the solution is at the front of the bottle and it’s being angled downward, it’ll be able to suck up the cleaner. Again a brush is used to agitate the carpet. Finally is vacuuming the hydrogen peroxide and carpet cleaner. Use a wet/dry only compatible vacuum. Depending on the severity of the stains, this may take more than one time. I let the area dry and more was applied after. I’ll provide some footage once everything is cleaned at the end of the video. Next is method #2. I find this method doesn’t work as well, this one does require more applications for more severe stains. Again the carpet was vacuumed to remove any debris and fluff up the fibers. Next is applying a salt and vinegar mixture. 1/4 cup salt to a 1/4 gallon of vinegar. Let this soak into the rust stains for 5-10 minutes, then agitate with a brush. After using a brush, you can let it soak for a few more minutes, this will allow the solution to work its way into the stain. A fabric cleaner can be applied here too, this will help in removing the smell left over from vinegar. Then follow up with a wet/dry vacuum. Once dry, here you can see how the carpet looks. I did follow up with more applications later to ensure the stains were fully removed. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to clean carbon build-up in a plastic intake. Depending on the engine design, its condition, and maintenance history, this will affect how much carbon build up inside the intake. For this I am using my 2010 BMW 335d as an example and unfortunately this particular engine, the M57 is known for having this problem. With plastic intakes, you’ll need to be extremely careful not to damage the intake where you risk jeopardizing its durability such as using harsh chemicals. Plastic intakes also cannot be exposed to any media blasting either. #turnermotorsport #oemtools #bmwm57 Throttle body gasket: http://bit.ly/3IQ4Sob Intake manifold gasket (round): http://bit.ly/3YWNJyJ Intake manifold gasket (rectangular): http://bit.ly/3EyfYeJ OEMTOOLS Magnetic Foldable Trays 26052: https://www.mobiledistributorsupply.com/26052-oemtoolstools-oemtools-26052-magnetic-foldable-tray-4-pack Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -citrius degreaser -hot water -big bucket -dull/worn standard screwdriver -round brushes -required tools for removal -new gaskets Chapters: 00:00 Intro 00:20 Removal Overview 01:10 Stripping Down the Intake 03:54 Basic Cleaning 04:20 Deep Cleaning 05:51 EGR Valve Cleaning 06:22 Reassembly Procedure: Once that intake has been removed, now is further disassembly. All the old gaskets, fasteners, clips, sensors and any other components will need to be removed. The intake should be stripped down to only the intake and no other components. Using a worn standard screwdriver with no sharp edges, scrape out as much of the build-up as possible from the intake. This will help with the cleaning process and allow the cleaner to bite in quicker. Simply rotate the screwdriver around inside the holes and then wipe on a paper towel. I have a garbage can filled with some hot water. I boiled water using my propane heater with a pot. A citrus cleaner is then dumped into the water, this is a concentrated cleaner that mixes with the water. To provide some agitation for the intake, I’ll stick a hose inside the intake connected to an air valve, which was running at about 5 psi from the air compressor. Eventually more water was added to the intake so it was fully submerged. The intake is soaked for about three hours, this will depend on the severity of the buildup. The intake was then removed, and the pressure washer was used to wash out any softened build-up inside. make sure you are doing this in an area where you don’t stain any surrounding surfaces. If you do find the is some buildup left over, use a round brush to clean the inside of each of the runners. A popsicle stick can also be used to help scrape away any residue inside. The intake, and then be soaked again or you can spray cleaner inside each of the runners. A pressure washer is then used again to wash out the intake runners when washing out the intake make sure you don’t get any dirt inside the intake runners which can cause damage to your engine. As for the EGR assembly, use a doll standard screwdriver to scrape away any residue on the inside. Use brake cleaner to wash away the remaining residue. A toothbrush can also be used to help agitate the surface. Again wash away any remaining residue with the brake cleaner. Swirl flap caps are then installed along with the actuator. These caps are only intended for off-road use. This is not a street legal modification, this goes against laws that no longer make the vehicle fit for the road. The gasket surfaces are cleaned with a paper towel to ensure there are no contaminants that may cause sealing issues. The newly supplied gaskets from Turner Motorsport is then installed. These gaskets simply fit into a groove, they’re held into place so there is minimal risk of them falling out during the installation. The gasket surfaces on the engine were cleaned using a cloth with brake cleaner. This will remove any built-up residue which could potentially cause sealing issues. If you do find any hard surface imperfections or built-up debris, green scotch-brite can be used for this. After that is installing everything in reverse of removal. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to replace the water pump on a Dodge Ram 5.7L V8. This is a 2006 1500 4wd model. Water pumps have different fail points, this can be a faulty bearing which will typically make a noise when the engine is running. This may or may not be followed by a faulty seal causing coolant to leak out the vent hole for the bearing. The seal between the block and pump casing can leak, again causing a loss of coolant. And finally is a fault impeller where it’s deteriorated, broken, or spinning on the shaft. If your coolant level is constantly dropping, there are ways to help find the leak if it’s not prominently visible. I do have videos for this, one would be using a system dye with a UV light And the other would be using a cooling system pressure tester. Here’s an example of a couple of different tools used, one is a UV light and the other is the pressure testing kit. #oemtools #emanualonline #dodgeram eManualOnline: bit.ly/3BTq3lp 20% Discount Code: 4DIYERS20 OEMTools 24609 Diagnostic Light: https://mobiledistributorsupply.com/24609-oemtools-24609-multi-use-rechargeable-diagnostic-work-light-oem.html OEMTOOLS 27069 Cooling System Pressure Test Pump: https://www.mobiledistributorsupply.com/27069-oemtools-cooling-system-pressure-test-pump-oem OEMTools 87043 Coolant Funnel Kit :https://www.mobiledistributorsupply.com/87043-oemtools-87043-professional-no-spill-coolant-funnel-kit-oem-4 Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -10mm, 12mm, 15mm sockets -ratchet with extensions -large adjustable wrench -interlocking pliers -gear clamps -new upper and lower radiator hoses -coolant and distilled water -new water pump -drain pan Chapters: 00:00 Intro 00:35 How to Find a Leak 01:05 Expansion Tank and Air Intake Removal 02:11 Draining the System 02:26 Fan Shroud and Radiator Removal 04:00 Clutch Fan Removal 05:20 Water Pump Removal 06:20 Flushing the Block 07:24 Installing the New Pump 08:45 Thermostat Removal and Installation 09:38 Serpentine Belt and Pulleys 10:29 New Radiator 11:12 New Clutch Fan 13:02 Adding Coolant and Bleeding the System Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to replace the front pads and rotors on a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500HD. This is a second generation Sierra, the same process can also be applied to the Chevrolet Silverado HD as well as other GMC brands such as the Suburban or Yukon, Express or Savanna, etc. #gmt800 #quirkparts #gmcsierra #chevroletsilverado 5% discount code: DIY5 Front pads (84292732): https://www.quirkparts.com/oem-parts/gm-oem-new-gm-99-17-cadillac-chevrolet-gmc-hummer-front-disc-brake-pad-kit-84292732-84292732?utm_source=youtube.com&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=4DIYers&utm_term=front_pad_84292732 Front rotors (15942195): https://www.quirkparts.com/oem-parts/gm-oem-new-1999-18-gm-cadillac-chevrolet-rotor-front-and-rear-wheel-brake-15942195-15942195?utm_source=youtube.com&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=4DIYers&utm_term=front_rotor_15942195 Website: https://www.quirkparts.com/?utm_source=youtube.com&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=4DIYers&utm_content=homepage Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -18mm, 21mm, & 22mm socket -hammer -new pads and rotors -wire brush -copper anti-seize -brake cleaner -ratchet -torque wrench Procedure: Start by elevating the front of the vehicle, using a 22mm socket, remove the center cap from the wheel. Remove the 8 22mm lug nuts. Finally remove the wheel. It’s always a good idea to crack the master cylinder receiver cap to relieve any potential pressure build-up when compressing the pistons in the caliper. Using large interlocking pliers or a screwdriver, compress the pistons back slightly to make the removal process easier. Using a ratchet, remove the 2 18mm bolts holding on the caliper to the carrier. These also function as the slide pins so there will be grease when they’re removed. Remove the caliper. Hang the caliper up, either on the upper control arm or using a hook or bungee cord. Do not hang the caliper on the line as this can cause unwanted stress to the flex line potentially damaging it. Remove the pads. A standard screwdriver is used to remove the anti-rattle clips. Now the carrier can be removed. You may need a breaker bar for these if they are seized. These are held on with 2 21mm bolts. If the rotor is stuck and you are keeping it, hit between the wheel studs to break any rust free. If you’re not keeping the rotor, then you can hit the breaking surface. Remove the rotor. Once that rotor has been removed, clean the hub surface using a wire brush or wheel. This will ensure there won’t be any runout when installing the new rotor. Wash the area with brake cleaner. This is optional and does help if you live in an area that experiences winters where your vehicle is exposed to salt. A light layer of copper anti-seize can be applied to the hub surface, preventing the rotor from becoming seized to the hub face. Before the rotor is installed, the braking surface is cleaned with brake cleaner and a clean rag to remove the packaging oil. Install the rotor. Use a couple of lug nuts to hold it in place, this will help with the reassembly of the carrier with pads and caliper. Use a wire brush or wheel to clean the carrier, specifically the area where the anti-rattle clips will be installed. These must be cleaned so the pads move freely and do not bind. Install the carrier along with the 2 21mm bolts. The torque specification is 139 ft-lbs or 188 NM. Install the new clips. Silicone grease does come supplied with the new pads, which get applied to the tabs where they’re in contact with the anti-rattle clips. Install the new pads. Using an old pad and gear clamp, compress the pistons in the caliper fully. Install the caliper. The old slide pins are cleaned to remove the old grease. Then silicone grease is applied to these as well. Also, inspect these for any wear or damage and replace them as needed. The bolts are then tightened here. The torque specifications are 80 ft-lbs or 108 NM. Clean the backside of the wheel to remove any dirt or rust which may cause runout. Install the wheel. The torque specifications are 140 ft-lbs or 190 NM. Install the center cap when done. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to how to change both serpentine belts on a first-generation Mazda CX9 equipped with the 3.7L V6. This engine is also found in other Ford and Lincoln models from the same generation. This is a 2015 model. A squeaking is an indication of the belt slipping, therefore it’s stretched. I would recommend replacing both and also checking the tensioner to ensure it’s not requiring a replacement as well. The tensioner can fail by not providing sufficient tension or having the pulley bearing fail. A pad tensioner will typically not allow the belt to tighten and potentially bounce when the engine is running. #mazdacx9 #stretchbelt #ford Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -new serpentine belt -new stretch belt -cable ties -long screwdriver -phillips screwdriver -adjustable wrench -10mm socket with ratchet -jack and jack stand -21mm socket Procedure: Elevate the vehicle, we are required to remove the passenger side wheel. Remove the hubcap, then I can access those lug nuts. The lug nuts are 21 mm. Remove the wheel. Use a jack stand under the subframe as a safety. There is a plastic cover that is required to be removed to gain more access to the serpentine belt. Four clips need to be removed. A Phillips screwdriver is required to unscrew the center portion of the clip. Once done, either try to pull the clip out or pull the cover out. Next the coolant reservoir needs to be unbolted and pulled off to the side. Three 10mm bolts hold this in place. Push it over towards the engine. Do not disconnect the coolant lines. The tensioner does require a special tool with a 3/8" adapter. There is not enough room to fit in a ratchet unfortunately. However there is a way around this, an adjustable wrench can be used to grab onto the top portion of the tension. As you can see once I have that adjustable wrench in place, it can be used to pull back the tensioner to remove the belt. It is a bit tricky to remove the belt while relieving the tension as there isn’t much room to work. A standard screwdriver can also be used to help assist it off one of the pulleys. Typically taking the belt off the smoothest pulley is the easiest option. Always make a note of how the belt is routed. Next is the stretch belt. This particular engine, it’s used for the power steering pump. Use some form of cutters to remove the old belt, this is by far the easiest way. For installing the new belt, there are tools available however due to the limited space, it was unable to be used. Another option, which I used as cable ties. The belt is first installed onto the crank pulley, then pushed on as far as possible onto the power steering pulley. The power steering pulley has various holes where the cable ties can be routed through, holding the belt in place. I started out using one cable tie per hole, however due to the excessive amount of tension, they broke. So two cable ties are recommended per hole, a total of four cable ties were used. the crank is turned at the same time in the clockwise position using an 18 mm socket with either a half inch drive ratchet or Johnson bar. I would highly recommend having a helping hand for this, it can be hard to direct that belt in place while turning the engine over. I found using a large standard screwdriver to help rotate the power steering pulley did help. Once that belt is on, then the cable ties can be cut off. They can be cut off from up through the bottom. After that is installing the larger serpentine belt with the tensioner, again I would recommend having help for this unless you can wedge something between the wrench and firewall to release the tensioner. Route the belt over the ribbed pulleys first and finish up on the smoothest pulley. When done, the plastic cover can then be installed. Line it up with the holes and then snapped in each of the individual clips. Install the center screws to expand the clips. Reinstall the coolant reservoir and tighten those 10 mm bolts. Ensure the hub face is clean on the back of the wheel and the rotor, then install the wheel. Finally tightening those 21 mm lug nuts and finish up with clipping back on the center hub cap. Start the engine to make sure everything is operating as it should. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

Common symptoms caused by a faulty BMW FRM, also known as a footwell module along with what can be done for a repair. Unfortunately on my car, I did have a learning experience from this issue, I was scanning my car with ISTA while the battery died and this is what caused the module the brick up. For this I am using my 2010 BMW 335d e90 as an example. #BMWFRM #BMWE90 #BMW335d Foxwell NT530 Scanner: https://www.foxwelldiag.com/products/foxwell-nt530?variant=40625470537894&ref=5 DeoxIt D100L Kit: https://caig.com/product/deoxit-deoxit-gold-kit-k-dg100l-2db/ Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -OBD2 scanner -10mm socket with ratchet -contact cleaner/protectant Procedure: If you are scanning the car using ISTA and the FRM is shown in red, this means there is no signal between this module and the scanner. The module heading would be shown in red. If you are using an OBD2 reader such as this Foxwell scanner I have, a faulty module will show fault codes. The severity of errors between cars will vary. Beyond bricking up from having the battery die during a scan, other causes which can make the module malfunction would be corrosion on the electrical connectors, voltage spikes or generic voltage issues. Faults that I experienced which I believe was every single possible problem my door locks not working using the key fob, no signal lights, no fog lights, no high beams, no reverse lights, no license plate lights, no interior lights, no gauge cluster lights, windows not working, no power mirrors, faults codes on the gauge cluster, active headlights not working, driver’s door error saying it’s open, climate control not working correctly, and auto fold mirrors not working. My car was undrivable due to the severity of the errors. I do however have a friend which a faulty FRM as well however it only shows a few faults such as one headlight and taillight working on a start-up and some FRM fault codes. As for repairs, this can be something such as cleaning the connectors or more complicated as having the module replaced. If corrosion is found on the module connections or as preventative maintenance, I would highly recommend using Deoxit D100L which comes in a kit. This kit includes various cleaning tools if there is any corrosion. If there isn’t any corrosion, this solution will protect the connection and prevent that from happening. Some OBD2 scanners may be able to reset the module, this can be done by yourself or have a shop do this. I tried having this done by a shop, however they were unsuccessful. Instead I removed the module, then had someone reprogram it completely. This only took about 20 minutes and the VIN is required. You may be lucky to find someone local, other times you’ll have to send it in. Various services can be found online. Equipment can be purchased to do such a procedure, however it’s around $1000 for the proper tools from what I could find. If the module is damaged, then a replacement is needed. New or used options are available. A used module can be reprogrammed to your car and is most like a much cheaper option than purchasing a new one. Some cars also had interchangeable modules between different series modules which provide more options for replacements. When scanning the car, always make sure the battery is fully charged. If a scan or programming is done for longer periods, then hook up a trickle charger so the battery doesn’t become depleted. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to restore faded trim on your vehicle using these graphene infused trim restoration cubes from Lithium. This will permanently restore faded plastic to that factory look. The kit comes with everything you need to restore your trim. This includes the graphene ceramic infused trim cubes, one spray bottle of pre-applicator cleaner, a pair of gloves, and the instructions. #lithium #lithiumautocare #autodetailing Lithium Graphene Trim Cubes: https://lithiumautocare.com/products/graphene-trim-coating Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -hose and water -carwash soap and a bucket -compressed air -microfiber towel -Lithium trim restoration kit Procedure: I gave the vehicle a full wash so we’re working with a clean base and there is minimal chance of contaminants. Then I followed up with compressed air and a microfiber towel to remove any pooling water under and around the trim where it may cause application issues. Then using their pre-application spray, it’s applied to the door handle and then wipe the surface using a microfiber cloth. This will remove any contaminants or oils on the surface which may prevent the product from working properly. Furthermore I have also washed the vehicle before doing the application process. Next going to the rear bumper trim, I Again the pre-applicator spray is applied to remove any contaminants, the surface is then cleaned using a microfiber towel. It’ll take a few minutes to dry which is why I go around with the cleaner first. Now back to the door handle. Here is the trim cube package, there is one cube per package. Open the package and watch the cube is saturated with cleaner. It’s important to wear gloves during the cleaning and application processes. Then gently rub the plastic with the trim cube. Go over the full surface, working in different directions to ensure it is sufficiently covered. When done follow up with a clean microfiber cloth to remove any excess amount of restoration product. If you missed any spots, go over it again and then follow up with a microfiber cloth. After that you will be required to let the product dry. Now going back to the bumper trim, again using the same process. Try not to squish the cube where a bunch of conditioner drips out. Work in different directions, evenly covering the plastic. In this situation try not to get it on the chrome bumper. Then follow up with a microfiber cloth to remove the excess amount of restoration product, providing an even finish throughout the plastic trim. Again other areas of the vehicle also have the product applied as well. This can be applied on any plastic trim such as the door handles, fender flares, box protectors, license plate frames, rocker panel covers, light bezels, bumper valances, etc. this can even be used on your boat, yard equipment, motorcycle, ATV, etc. Once done as you can see the trim is restored to its new original finish. I will be extensively testing this product to see how it holds up. This was applied before winter so be sure to keep an eye out for a review in the upcoming months. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to install a swirl flap delete kit on a BMW M57 diesel. This particular car I am working with here today is a 2010 BMW 335d. This involves removing the swirl flaps and installing custom blocker plates. As a warning, this is an off-road modification and it is not approved for vehicles licensed to be driven on the road. The reason for installing this kit is to remove a common reliability issue where the swirl flaps can break and then end up in the engine potentially causing severe damage. #bmwm57 #bmw335d #turnermotorsport Throttle body gasket: http://bit.ly/3IQ4Sob Intake manifold gasket (round): http://bit.ly/3YWNJyJ Intake manifold gasket (rectangular): http://bit.ly/3EyfYeJ Teslong Camera: https://www.teslong.com/Industrial-Endoscope/Dual-Lens-5inch-Industrial-borescope-inspection-camera?ref=4diyers10 Teslong 10% discount code: 4DIYERS Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -8mm, 10mm, 11mm, 13mm sockets with ratchet -e14, e18 sockets -5mm allen wrench -degrease -clean rags -side cutters -long magnet -new gaskets -swirl flap delete kit -silicone spray -small screwdriver or pick -t20 driver Procedure: Before we get started, it’s a good idea to disconnect the battery. This requires a 10mm socket, which I have already done. Remove the 6 8mm screws holding down the cabin filter cover. Then lift off the cabin filter cover. Unclip the sensor for the hood. Pull out the side tabs and remove the outer covers by the hood shocks. Remove the 2 8 mm screws on each side of the windshield cowl. There will be one on each side. If you haven’t already, unclipped the wire that goes across the engine bay under that plastic trim piece above the engine cover. Lift that plastic cover and then pull towards the front of the car. There will be a wire clip that also needs to be disconnected to fully remove this cover. Before getting any further, it’s always a good idea to vacuum up any debris which can potentially fall inside the engine. Using an e14 socket, remove the two bolts on each of the strut towers for the strut brace. Remove the plastic cover at the center of the windshield cowl, then loosen the e18 bolt here. There is no need to remove it as the strut braces as they have a slotted hole where they slide in under the bolt head. Then remove the strut braces for each side. Make note of their orientation as they only fit in one position. Remove the 13mm nut for the power wire that goes across the engine bay. As mentioned earlier, you should have disconnected the battery so there is no chance of a short here. Remove the 7 5mm socket head bolts using a 3/8 drive ratchet. This engine cover comes out in two pieces, I will show you that in a moment. Once those fasteners are out, wipe around the oil fill location, then remove the filler cap. Lift out the first part of the engine cover. Reinstall that oil fill cap. Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding on the center section plastic trim panel on the firewall. There are two styles of fasteners here, make sure you note their location. If you haven’t already, pull out that rubber gasket. Then lift out the cover, you may need to pull up on the windshield cowl to help with movement. Now remove the back section of the engine cover. This is a tight fit and will require some patience when removing. Make sure you don’t damage the sound insulation. Remove the 2 10mm bolts towards the back corner of the intake on the driver's side. There will be one for the engine oil dipstick bracket and another for a bracket on the rear. Disconnect the electrical plug for the MAP sensor. Simply press the tag and pull it off. Disconnect the electrical connector on the rear behind the intake. And then disconnect another below the MAP sensor. Using cutters, remove the cable tie holding on the one wiring harness. Using a standard screwdriver, gently pry off the electrical connector for the butterfly flap motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the bracket. Disconnect the electrical connector on top of this assembly along with removing the harness from the wiring retaining clip. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to install a hitch on a first-generation Mazda CX9. This particular model is a 2015 and a similar procedure may apply to other models which share the same platform like Ford or Lincoln. Rigid Hitch has supplied me with the hitch for this installation. This is their class 3 tubular hitch, it has a 2” receiver and is rated for a 4000 lbs trailer with 400 lbs of tongue weight. #rigidhitch #hitch #mazdacx90 Hitch: https://www.rigidhitch.com/draw-tite-75531.html?find=2015-mazda-cx-9-rear-mounted-receivers-all-models-560752 Wiring Kit: https://www.rigidhitch.com/rigid-re-62070.html?find=2015-mazda-cx-9-trailer-hitch-electrical-all-models-538686&sid=aaAFjKPEHq Website: https://www.rigidhitch.com/?utm_source=matthewromagnoli&utm_medium=influencer&utm_campaign=4diyers Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -19mm socket with ratchet and 19mm wrench -medium grade threadlocker -M12x1.25 tap (not manditory) -vehicle ramps -new hitch kit Procedure: The kit comes with everything you need for the installation, you’ll also find mounting hardware and instructions included with this hitch. Each of the bolts had a medium grade thread locker applied to ensure the bolts don’t come loose. The vehicle was also driven up on ramps in the rear to make the installation easier. This can all be done in your driveway. The hitch is extremely straightforward to install. There are already threaded holes pre-installed by Mazda on the structure. The spare tire can be removed and I will show you that in a moment. As you can see there are the holes on each side. To install the hitch, tip the receiver down and then feet it up behind the bumper around the heat shield. The threaded holes can be chased with a top to remove any rust to make the installation of the bolts easier. The top that would be used would be an M12 x 1.25 tap. This isn’t needed on all vehicles depending on your climate. As mentioned earlier, the rigid hitch has supplied the components for the installation, be sure to check them out by the link in my video description. After that is installing each of the bolts. Before tightening any of them, make sure they are started by hand first. To get a better view of the installation, I did end up dropping the spare tire. This is done by pulling the carpet floor up in the trunk space, Mazda does have a tool to drop the tire. Rotate the nut in the floor and this will lower the tire. All of the bolts are 19 mm and make sure you do install a washer with each of them. Tighten each of the bolts to 76 ft lbs or 105 nm. Once done, the spare tire can be retracted back into place. You may need to direct it by hand ensuring it’s properly seated and not caught up on anything underneath. I still have the trunk liner out as I will be installing the wiring, so be sure to stay tuned for that video. After that, the hitch installation is finally done, and as you can see it tucks up underneath the vehicle nicely. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

Review on these Morimoto LED fender lights on my BMW E90. These not only fit an E90, but they fit the E91, E92, E92, E36, E46, E81, E82, E87, E88, E60, E61, E84, and E83. So the cover that in series, that’s the 1 series, 3 series, 5 series, X1, and X3 of certain generations. #bmw #morimoto #ledlights Morimoto Website: https://bit.ly/3LcoToU Side Marker Lights: https://www.morimotohid.com/Side-Markers-BMW-06-15?quantity=1 Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ These are a direct plug and play setup, no modifications are required for your vehicle. These will not cause any error codes either. Out of the box you can see they’re neatly packed. These have a smoked looked, are not fully black, and illuminate an amber color to match the factory. The lenses also feature an anti-UV coating to ensure they have a long life, providing that protection from deteriorating. Replacing the factory incandescent bulbs with these LEDs, there will be an improvement in light output, quicker start up time, and a much longer lifespan. As you can see they have an identical shape and size to the factory BMW versions. Installing is very straightforward. Push on the front of the light towards the rear of the car, then pop out the front portion first. Pull the light out. Twist and pull out the light connector. There is a tab that needs to be disconnected, however, those typically break with age. Remove the old bulb. These lights are designed to plug into the factory plug connector. Push the wire into the assembly, then install the light bulb socket into the new assembly. Push it in, then twist it to lock it into place. Insert the rear of the light, the side with the spring tab into the fender hole. Push back and then lock in the front side. Once in, here you can see how it looks. These use a high-power Osram LED which will improve visibility both at night and during the day ensuring other motorists can see you. It blends in great with the black paint on my car and will match many other colors as well. As you can see the light has a quicker start up and shutdown time than compared to the factory incandescent bulbs beyond being brighter as well. With the UV-coated polycarbonate lenses, these will stand the test of time ensuring they always look new and don’t fade within a few months like other versions on the market. Morimoto is a very reputable brand, I have been using some of their other products in the past and they are extremely well made. Overall I’m extremely happy with how they look on my car along with their quality and fitment. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to replace the fuel filter on a BMW 335d E90. A similar procedure may apply to other 3 series or diesel models as well. This is a 2010 model. A dirty fuel filter may cause a throttle hesitation, flats spots in your RPM range, poor performance, and a drop in fuel economy. Fuel Filter: https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=N/DVI*Mr8tI&mid=43304&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.turnermotorsport.com%2Fp-582299-fuel-filter%2F Foxwell NT530 Scanner (Amazon US): https://amzn.to/3Xdp2Or Foxwell NT530 Scanner (Amazon Canada): https://amzn.to/3qOdwgk Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -8mm and 13mm sockets -T20 torx driver -ratchet -container -new fuel filter -gloves -standard screwdriver Procedure: First is elevating the vehicle up on ramps by the front. This will be a tight fit, especially if you have the lowered version. Remove the 8 8mm screws on the belly pan under the driver's side. You can kind of see the fuel filter through the holes in the belly pan. It’s located towards the center of the car. Do not run the car empty of diesel as this can cause damage to the fuel system. You can rotate the belly pan as there is a clip that holds it into place. Removing it completely is also an option but not necessary. Now the fuel filter is fully exposed. Have a container handy to catch any of their diesel fuel that drains out of the filter when it’s being disconnected. First is removing the 13 mm bolt holding on the one bracket. Next is using a T 20 driver to remove the bracket from the filter. A socket or standard screwdriver can be used to remove the gear clamp for the front hose. Use a standard screwdriver to remove the clip which holds on the fuel heater. The retaining bracket can finally be removed, it can be slid up to the line and then pulled off. Twist the filter and pull the front hose. Once disconnected use the cap from the new fuel filter to plug the port so we don’t have an excessive amount of diesel fuel draining. Use a standard screwdriver to help remove the heater. Mine was stuck in place, it did take quite a bit of force to remove it. again diesel fuel will come from the side too. I had the new fuel filter handy so I was able to install it right away without too much diesel fuel draining. Push the fuel heater into the filter on the backside. This filter goes on in only one orientation. You may need to rotate while pushing to help assist it into place. Make sure the seal is in place on the filter. The rubber damper around the filter was installed from the old filter. It just slides into place. Now connect the front hose to the front of the filter. Tighten the gear clamp at the front of the fuel filter. Install the retaining clip at the fuel heater. Align it with the holes and then push it into place. Now install the retaining bracket with the Torx screw. Try to position the rubber damper with the bracket in the same place as the mounting hole. Then tighten the torque screw. Now install the other bracket with the 13 mm bolt and tighten it. Before putting that belly pan into place, we must bleed the fuel system to ensure there are no leaks. Locate the OBD2 port by the kick panel on the driver's side. Remove the access hatch and plug in the code reader. For this, I’m using my Foxwell NT530 scanner which has BMW specific programming to bleed the fuel system on a diesel. Bleeding the fuel system is highly recommended so you don’t cause premature wear on any fuel system components. The key will need to be turned on for this without the engine running. We will need to go into the BMW feature on the scanner, then click on service. Next will be the power train. Digital diesel electronics. Adaptations. And finally bleeding the fuel system. You’ll have to agree to the various prompts and allow the system to run. You will hear the pump run, it will change tone as the air is bled in the system. when done you can then exit and remove the scanner. Start the engine and check for any leaks before installing the belly pan. Turn the engine off and then reinstall the belly pan. Rotate it back into place and ensure that the pivot point is still properly clipped in. Then install the 8 mm fasteners, starting them by hand first and finishing tightening after. After that you are officially done, and the car can be finally removed from the ramps. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

How to install trailer hitch wiring on a first generation Mazda CX9. This particular model is a 2015 and a similar procedure may apply to other models which share the same platform like Ford or Lincoln. The kit comes with everything required for the installation. This includes the module, trailer wiring, wiring to your signal lights, in-line fuse, power wire, connectors, cable ties, silicone sealant, and instructions. Hitch: https://www.rigidhitch.com/draw-tite-75531.html?find=2015-mazda-cx-9-rear-mounted-receivers-all-models-560752 Wiring Kit: https://www.rigidhitch.com/rigid-re-62070.html?find=2015-mazda-cx-9-trailer-hitch-electrical-all-models-538686&sid=aaAFjKPEHq Website: https://www.rigidhitch.com/?utm_source=matthewromagnoli&utm_medium=influencer&utm_campaign=4diyers Website: http://4diyers.com Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/ Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/ Tools/Supplies Needed: -trailer light wiring kit -wire cutters -heat shrink -10mm socket with ratchet -heat gun -butt connectors Procedure: Lift the hatch for the storage compartment, remove the side storage area. Lift out the center portion. Remove the side portion on the driver's side. Put your hands under the trim panel along the back and pull up. Using a standard screwdriver, flip up the caps for the bottom tiedown areas. Pull out the hooks on the top storage retainers. Remove the 10mm bolts. Do the same for the opposite side. It’s hard to see here but there is a wiring harness connector behind the trunk hatch lift motor. Depress the tang on the one connector, then pull it apart. Plug in both the male and female connectors into the existing vehicle harness. There will be a ground wire which needs to be connected, this can be done by drilling a new hole in the sheet metal or using an existing hole. For this I will be using the 10 mm bolt for the hatch lift motor. The bolt is removed, it’s then inserted into the eye of the bolt and then tightened back up. On the opposite side is the same procedure with the light connector. The module will be mounted on a flat surface behind the trim panel using the double-faced adhesive. Use rubbing alcohol or window cleaner to remove any contamination on the surface of both the steel and behind the module box. Stick the adhesive pad onto the module, then stick the module onto the flat surface firmly pressing it down. Using the supplied cable ties, tie the wiring back. The black power wire coming from the module box also needs to be hooked up. This can be directly connected to your battery, however I will be picking a simpler method. Twist the exposed conductor’s why are strands. Using the butt connector, crimp it onto the black wire’s exposed conductor. Using the supplied black wire, strip some of the insulation off, twist the conductor and then install it into the butt connector. Crimp the connector. Give it a pull test to ensure the wire is firmly in place. Using cable ties, tie the wiring back so everything is neat. The protective cap for the trailer light plug is also installed. Pull it over the plug and then push the captain to place. Continue to tie back the wiring using cable ties. The green and black wires will need to extend over to the passenger side of the vehicle. The trailer connector will stop about midway above the jack. The trunk area has a constant 12 V power source which feeds the 12 V power outlet. I’ll tap into this source instead of running the wiring directly to the battery. The fuse has been removed from the circuit, then the wire to the back of the plug is cut and stripped. The red and yellow wire is used for power. The wire strands are then twisted together, the one side will have the in-line fuse. Then used a bare butt connector to crimp onto the connection. Shrink tube is applied to the connection, this will strengthen the connection and provide a good seal as well. The opposite side is inserted and crimped as a connection. A heat gun is used on the shrink tube. Cut the black wire to size, and strip the insulation back. Insert the butt connector and crimp it into place. Crimp the butt connector onto the in-line fuse wire. Plug the wire back in and then install the supplied fuse. Finish up with the cable ties and then clip the trim panel back into place. Now install those clips and tie downs with the 10 mm bolts. Reinstall all the components in reverse of removal. Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week! © 4DIYers 2013 All Rights Reserved No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.