INTERRUPTING RATING vs AMPERE RATING
Have you ever wondered why breakers have two amperage ratings? What's the difference between the one on the side that says "Interrupting Rating" and the one stamped on the handle of the breaker?
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Typically when electricians talk about circuit breakers, we talk about the amperage rating that is written on the handle of the device. This is the "circuit rating" and it is intended to be the lowest point of current, which exceeded will trip a breaker. When you size a 30-amp circuit, you put a 30-amp breaker.
But every breaker has to have a second current rating as well, and this is called the "interrupting rating." An interrupting rating can be thought of as a maximum. It is the maximum amount of current that a breaker is designed to interrupt (correctly operate), before damaging the device. This is at the device's rated voltage as well...so no running 480v through a 240v rated device with an interrupting rating of 10kA.
Interrupting ratings are notated in kA, or thousands of amperes. For example, some standard kA ratings you'll see on devices are 10kA or 22kA, this means 10,000 and 22,000 amperes respectively. Also notice that you can have a two different breakers, with two different interrupting ratings, and still both breakers can have the same ampere rating on the handle. The handle ampere rating is what is protecting the conductors that are hooked up to the breaker - whereas the interrupting rating is protecting the actual breaker itself.
#breakers #interrupting #amperage
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This is why Electricians don't use Romex in wet environments (TROUBLESHOOTING OUTDOOR LIGHTS)
Before you go pulling that NM cable through some smirf-tube underground, watch this video. Conduits installed in underground environments are considered wet, and NM cable IS NOT A WET-rated conductor.
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This was a quick and easy little troubleshooting job. The customer called and said they had a circuit that kept tripping everytime their timeclock came on, which controlled their outdoor lighting. So I decided to stop by and check it out.
I found all of the bulbs installed were incandescent candelabras, which can break easily and sometimes show as a short circuit while troubleshooting. I found quite a few bulbs that were bad, so we just took all of them out to see if that would clear the fault. It didn't. We flipped the breaker and it still tripped, with no bulbs in the fixtures. I inspected all of the sockets at each fixture, and there were no visible signs of anything shorted out or melted, so I began to think there may be issues with the wires inside the fixtures.
This is less likely to be the case, but I also noticed no weatherproofing at the base of each fixture so the likelihood of moisture getting into the fixtures was pretty. Upon opening all of the light fixtures I verified that the conductors inside the stone were soaked at every location. The problem with this is that Romex (NM cable) is not rated for wet environments. The insulation around the conductors is not made of a material that is rated to withstand moisture, and over time can break down and cause a short circuit to occur.
This is exactly what happened.
#electrical #electricaltroubleshooting #wiring
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Q&A 6/4/2021
Welcome back to another Q&A day on this fine Friday!
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SHORTS - What Are Relays and HOW DO RELAYS WORK?
Ever wondered how relays work and what they're used for? I answer this in a 3 minute short version of a video I did on this topic long ago. For the full version of this video click here: https://youtu.be/CJjFAtXJn1g
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A control relay, cube relay, ice-cube relay, or relay as they're commonly called, is an electromagnetic switch. What this means is that it's a switch that you can use electricity to turn off, or on, or both off and on at the same time.
Some loads need to be automated, rather than having a person have to walk up and turn a switch on - so they need to be able to allow for external control devices such as timeclocks, photocells, or remote monitoring systems to control.
Control relays also allow for multiple different circuits/loads to be controlled with a single action. Meaning ONE signal/event can trigger multiple different loads/circuits to turn off, or on, or a combination of some on, and some off - at the same time.
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THIS IS WHY ELECTRICIANS DON'T HIDE J-BOXES IN WALLS - Finding Hackwork!!
This week's service call was to a customer who was having issues with plugs not working, and lights either flickering or not working. They complained that they were getting "weird voltages" so I figured I'd bring the camera along and go through my process of electrical troubleshooting with y'all.
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The first thing I always do when I get a call from a customer is ask an abundance of questions. Often times customers don't know the same things we electricians know, so a lot of terminology gets mixed up, and or assumptions made, that can confuse the issues and waste your time. They said they were running into some "weird voltage issues" with a receptacle in the kitchen. They also said there were some workers doing a bathroom remodel above, so I figured this one was something better for me to just set eyes on for myself.
When I got to the job, I verified there was indeed a receptacle showing bizarre voltage between the neutral and ground conductors at the device. There was 120v between ground and neutral, 0v between hot an neutral, and a negligible but fluxuating voltage between hot and ground. I needed to figure out where the circuit went so I could see where else the issue was spread to. They mentioned there were other lights nearby that weren't working or would flicker sometimes. So I pulled out my low voltage toner to see where the conductors went.
I found a dead spot in the ceiling where my tone disappeared, regardless what direction I toned from. I did some continuity testing with my multimeter as well, because the toner was losing a signal so it only helped me so much. The continuity test showed me what direction the circuit came from. Then I toned out toward the other problems with the lights and found it was all on the same circuit.
I knew from past experience that there was a high likelihood that there was a junction box buried in a wall somewhere. And my assumption was that it was right where I was losing signal. So I removed a nearby recessed can so I could see above the ceiling. Sure enough, I saw a metal junction box hiding up there. I couldn't access it though so I had to cut a hole in the ceiling just to get the box open and look inside.
Once I opened the box I was able to see that there was a melted wirenut and grouping of neutrals that were losing their connection. I took all of this apart and remade the joints and retested the circuit. This solved the problem, returning normal 120v between hot and neutral, and 120v between hot and ground, to the entire circuit. I also made sure the voltage between neutral and ground disappeared. It did, back to 0v.
In this spot I put a 6-inch remodel can and used the junction box attached to the can as a junction box for the old wires, as well as ran a jumper off the existing lighting and installed it on the new can. Pretty simple issue, just a weird thing to wrap your head around at first. The important thing when troubleshooting is to remember to get as many knowns out of the way as possible. You're going to have unknowns, but a lot of the time when finding values or information you uncover an answer to an unknown. The more knowns you have, the more educated guess you can make in the end.
#troubleshooting #electrical #electricalcode
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Live @ 5 - Why on earth would anyone be an electrician??
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SHORTS - Switch Loops EXPLAINED IN 3 MINUTES!!!
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SERVICE CALL - Repairing Weird Equipment I've Never Seen Before
This is a good episode to show y'all because it's a bizarre thing that I got called into work on. Sometimes you run into equipment or situations that you've never seen before, and this is a great example of how I deal with it on the fly.
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As you progress on your journey to becoming an experienced electrician, you will gain experience by running across situations, environments, and equipment that you've never seen before. A lot of time will be spent diagnosing problems that you don't have answers to. This is completely normal, and is a great thing as it forces you to have to think and find information. It's a great way to teach yourself and stretch the boundaries of what you know and what you don't.
Many people are under the false idea that you get to a point where you know everything when you do a job long enough. Fortunately for this career, that's just not true. The electrical trade changes so much that there is a constant renewal of new equipment, codes, materials, and procedures - forcing anyone on their journey to continually have to learn new information. The more you learn, the more you will open yourself to new avenues that are constantly evolving.
It's absolutely ok to not know something, and have to go out and seek answers. This is what everyone else is doing as well. Some want to pretend that they know all of the answers and are more experienced than everyone else, but those tend to be very insecure people who, deep down, really know that they're deficient - and are just trying to hide it by overcompensating the contrary.
As you journey out into the world, ask lots of questions, study, read books, listen to people speak, ask more questions, dig in, write things down, debate, and KEEP LEARNING. You will be wrong a lot. This is a great thing. Embrace it. It will be THE THING that makes you outstanding at what you do.
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Q&A Day - Friday 5/21/2021
It's FRIDAY! You know what that means, that's right...it's Q&A DAY!!! Get your codebook out for some trivia, as well as some code questions. You might just learn a thing or two!
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SHORTS - WHY WE BOND (Neutral & Ground) Explained in 3 Minutes
Here's a short version of the video I did a while back on why we bond neutral and ground together at the service panel of a premises wiring system.
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Pushmatic Panels & Breakers - ARE THEY DANGEROUS?
This video covers the history of Pushmatic, ITE, Bulldog, Siemens panels that have been installed around the US for the past half-century. There seems to be a bit of argument out there on whether or not they should be replaced. What do you think?
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Pushmatic got it's start sometime in the early 1900's, but it is unknown exactly when. There are documents and drawings from Bulldog Electrical from the 30's that show at least product lines being developed around the Great Depression. When we really see a large boom with these panels is in the 1950's - most have the word "Pushmatic" on them, as well as tons of panels with the little "Bulldog" logo on the front.
ITE is another name that gets thrown around with both Bulldog and Pushmatic, because like most of these old-school brands, once they started selling they would get bought out and absorbed into larger companies...ultimately Siemens ended up owning all of these products, years down the line.
There's not a large dramatic story for Pushmatic, like there was with Federal Pacific. Nor was there as high of a failure rate of products like the Zinsco/Challenger lines. There were reported failures in the 80s that started coming out showing that a lot of the breakers would not show correctly whether they were tripped or still energized. Also since these breakers are grease fed, they started to get stiff over time, and became very difficult to push in. One other issue many found was that there was no magnetic trip mechanism, rather only a thermal one. All modern breakers have both a magnetic and thermal trip inside of them to assist with short circuits as well as overloads.
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Live @ 5!!! - Fri May 14, 2021
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SHORTS - How 4way Switches Work - without the fluff
How do 4way switches work? It includes 3way switches, but is there something different that allows a 4way to work with two 3ways?
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Installing WRTR Receptacles - Is it necessary?
This week we have a service call to move a receptacle on a boat dock. This is both a wet and damp environment, so let's see what we need to do for this job.
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The first thing I needed to do after disconnecting power, was to disassemble the existing circuit. This meant opening up a junction box in the structure and taking apart the existing wiring and conduit. I also had to remove an old bell box and receptacle that was attached, as the customer wanted it moved to a different location.
Next, I had to install a new bell box at the new outlet location using self-drilling screws into the steel post nearby. Now in order to get wire from the junction box to the new receptacle, I had to run conduit. The easiest thing to do for the location was to pre-wire a "whip" made out of carflex, measure it and cut it to size. This way I could install the entire conduit system and wire at the same time, rather than trying to install metal conduit, with couplings connectors, and tons of bends. This saved a ton of time.
Once I got the next conduit and wire in place I hooked up both ends, installed a new WRTR receptacle, and in-use cover, closed everything up, re-energized the circuit, and tested with my plug tester. I ensured that this receptacle was on a GFCI circuit, cleaned up, and walked away. On to the next job.
#electrical #wrtr #wiring
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Q&A DAY!! - Friday 05/07/2021
This Friday we’ve got another hour-long question and answer session where I dive into the YouTube comments and answer some of your questions!
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Swapping Fluorescent Garage Lights to LED
Today I had a quick little service call to go out and replace some 2x4 fluorescent lights in a garage, to new LED lights.
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This job was a very simple one, actually love little lighting jobs like this because they're very margin-rich. The first thing I do is open up the new lights and make sure they're going to work in the space and that there are no surprises I'm going to run into, before taking the other fixtures down.
Next, I turn off power to the circuit at the electrical panel. Now I can work on the existing wires without the worry of being shocked. I remove the existing lamps and belly pan and disconnect the wires from each other. Then I unscrew the toggle bolts that are holding the fluorescent fixture to the ceiling. Once I pull the first light down, I move over and do the second one next. I like to do all of the removal before moving on to installing new fixtures. This is because as you do a task you become faster at it along the way. Rather than switching gears and changing what you're doing constantly which I find slows you down.
Next, I put the new fixtures up. I found the holes were in different places on the new fixtures so I ended up having to make new holes with my keyhole saw on the second fixture. Then I screwed the toggle bolts in place and secured the fixtures. Since there's no bulbs for these LED fixtures, I just put the belly pan and reflector on the fixtures and boom, I'm done. Then I go turn power back on and test the lights. All good, on to the next job!
#electrical #ledlights #fluorescent #servicecall
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Live @ 5 - April 30, 2021
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Live @ 5 - April 30, 2021
Another live....at 5 - welcome!
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SHORTS - SMART BREAKERS - What They Are & How They Work (in Under 3 Min!)
Here's a short version of the longer video I did on smart breakers awhile back. All the important bits, none of the fluff. Enjoy! Watch full-length version here: https://youtu.be/kM7nF3Ojk0Y
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#electrical #breakers #smartbreakers
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PROBLEMS WITH THE TRADE (Part 2) - Our Public Education System
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20
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Q and A - 4/23/21 - This one has some great comments!
Back again with the Q&A format this Friday, I dig into the YouTube comments and answer them on this hour-long episode. I'm really starting to love these! Make sure you go back and check out the prior weeks' Q&As, who knows I might have answered one of your comments...
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SHORTS - Transfer Switches Explained in 2 Minutes!
Here's a short and sweet version of this video on Transfer Switches that I did a while back. In 2 minutes I explain the difference between manual and automatic transfer switches. Watch FULL VERSION of this video here: https://youtu.be/LwftsX6ydQg
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There are two types of transfer switches you're likely to run into from time to time. The first is the Manual Transfer Switch (MTS). This is an enclosure with an external handle that can be manually moved from one position to another. This is beneficial to have for individuals who own homes by the coast, or in areas where power outages don't affect major operations. The next type is the Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS). The ATS is more commonly found in industrial and commercial buildings where no matter what, power must remain on. Many hospitals have ATS's protecting their electrical system so in the event of power failure, critical life safety equipment can continue running.
How a transfer switch works is essentially the same, regardless if it is an MTS or ATS. They're both going to have a set of "common" terminals that the building's wiring system gets hooked up to. They both also have two different "source" terminals that each power source gets connected to. The way they differ is that an MTS requires manual switching to change sources, where an ATS monitors the utility power and changes sources automatically when a power failure occurs.
#transferswitch #ats #mts #powersource
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ZINSCO ELECTRICAL PANELS - why their panels are dangerous
What happened with Zinsco and why do electricians tell people to replace their panels? They have a stigma similar to Federal Pacific as being "outlawed" for some reason, here's why.
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Zinsco as a company does not have as bad, rather as dramatic, a story as Federal Pacific does. Yes, there is a very high failure rate for Zinsco panels, but not quite as high as FPE. There was also no shady hiding UL listings and court judgments finding anyone guilty of fraud like there was with FPE.
Zinsco actually had a pretty successful run of products, similar to Federal Pacific, and became very popular post World War II. They were bought out a few times and changed hands because of this success, but as the years went on it was found - through testing, and damage to property, that the breakers and bus bars did not hold up through the years. Many of the busses would be damaged from the materials used getting overheated. Also, many of the breakers didn't trip when they should, making them extremely dangerous to have installed in a home.
There are still replacement breakers made for Zinsco panels, and they are definitely better than using old breakers that were made when there was a high failure rate. Of course, the best thing overall is simply to replace these old panels and get new equipment put in. However it's understandable, not everyone can afford to replace an entire service - so replacement breakers are still a viable middle-of-the-road option.
#replacementbreakers #zinsco #outlawedbreakers
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